She was a fantastic model and a great person. I was in the Czechia and she did not speak English. I think she was amazing considering she had no idea what I was saying the entire time. 10/10. I'd work with her any day. :)

Robo-model :D. Thanks for the content though!!

Gracias! Pura Vida!

A flash is one of the lowest-cost accessories for photography and one of the most useful. The very good but low-cost 3rd party flash greatly expands your options for about $50, an umbrella might be $10 or less and a light stand would be $14. The umbrella and light stand are not essential so there is almost nothing in photography that increases options more than a flash. I built my own high power strobes of my own design but they are too big and heavy to use outside the studio, so I bought a flash from my camera brand, Nikon that was about $600. Evenutally I bought 3 of them but needed a 4th for a project so I got as cheap $50 flash and found so little difference that I ended up getting more advanced models for $150 that included important wireless functions that became my main flash units that allowed complete control from the camera of external lights by radio connection. None of my 7 speed lights have failed except my more expensive Nikon SB-900 but I was able to repair that with a $1.6- capacitor. I used these in pro sessions all the time and seldom use the large studio strobes. The two main manufacturers of low-cost speed lights, although there are many others, are Yongnuo which I have, and Godox. The latter are more expensive possibly because they heavily advertise and both are reliable. My main speed lights with wireless remote control are the Yongnuo YN968N (N for Nikon but they have models for other major camera brands ) so the flash can act as a 4-channel controller of additional lights or as a slave. Other features include built-in video light. My first Speedlight from that brand is the YN568 for $50 and it would be effective for most photographers. For location or studio portraiture or still life, light modifiers are very reasonable, with umbrellas being very low cost, and for a bit more softboxes are available so learning to use augmented light is one of the lowest cost and most dramatic improvement in options for a photographer. I would much rather have good lighting than more expensive lenses because light and control of it IS photography. It is not just having more light but its direction, width and speed, so you have two or more sources of light, ambient that can be more or less strength than the scene requires, plus you control the speed lights that give additional options in speed of capture because the speed light or studio strobe has a very short light pulse duration. That means you have more control of ambient light exposure of any duration plus the Speedlight at a very short duration that allows balancing the two to cover almost any lighting conditions, even in bright outdoor sunlight. Good luck!

I'm glad to help. :)

Shoot on a tripod. All your shots will have the dark window with no view. At the end, turn off the lights in the room and set your shutter speed slow enough to get a good exposure on the outside view. Then use Photoshop masking & layers to underlay that well-exposed view into the window area of any of the shots that have a dark view. Might have to be a blend between the 2 shots to preserve some of the reflection of the glass.

Did it work using the polarizer?

The best way is to get the relative light source diameter larger but get closer to the subject and additionally control natural oil from the skin with blotting papers or matte powder. A small Speedlight with a small umbrella close into the subject can solve that problem for close-ups but if you need to have the subject illuminated by a more distant source, the light sources must be large relative to the subject. Using the rear wall and ceiling as a gigantic softbox can do that if the lights are pointed towards the rear and rear ceiling. Oil on the skin is highly variable with age and skin condition. I have a favorite subject, a very pretty jazz singer who is but the second half of the first set looks like an oil well, 36 years old who is really beautiful so I only shoot performances for the first song of each set. But it is also a sign that their skin will look great far longer than people with drier skin. She will still be in demand for modeling assignments into her 40s and 50s, while her age cohorts have given up modeling years before. I always carry blotting paper and a few different matte powders in my sling bag with 1-2 wireless flashes, 2 lenses and a camera when out and about in the city.

Daylight and flash are both around 5200K, so no gel needed in this setup. Perhaps I'll cover mixed color temps in a future video.

Yes, please do.

He set the camera on APERTURE PREFERRED, set the ISO at maximum flash setting for his camera at 200, and let the camera set the shutter speed.

I was also thinking HSS 1/8000s

ND filter on the lens, or ND film on the windows...

Photographer pays and includes the cost in the bill to the client.

You need a hand-held light meter with INCIDENT mode and place it near the model but pointed towards the studio light. Keep adjusting the studio light power when doing the test flash until the F-stop reading matches the outdoor F-stop reading. Buy a used digital hand-held light meter, you'll save some money.

adjust the f stop till you get right metering. thats how he got f4. it could have been 2.8 or 5.6 but he got f4 so he shot at that aperture.

Yes you need a constant video light (usually daylight balanced fluorescent bulbs or LEDs these days) with enough power to bring up the subject to proper exposure.

Troy Durrance 4 years ago Why, in the first technique, was the flash set to 'high speed sync' and not just ettl? Mark Wallace 4 years ago Because the shutter speed was faster than sync speed. You need HSS to shoot with faster shutter speeds.

There is no need to, since the green tint light is not illuminating the camera side of the model

I wouldn't call this is a mixed lighting scenario with regards to colour temperature. Sunlight and flash have approximately the same colour temperature. A WB setting for one should be fine for the other.

Those were images from the first two setups, the text on the bottom of the screen denotes what flash I was using.

No. Don't ever use it.

As low as the lighting allows for best dynamic range. ISO 100 or lower if the native range of the camera is lower.

I agree. I personally take a shot with only ambient light, then add the flash adjusting till properly exposed. It takes a few extra shots and isn't scientific but works well.

Save money by buying a used digital hand-held light meter with incident and reflected modes. All my photo gear were bought used, except for one camera.

Most likely evaluative to balance the light in the frame

Because the shutter speed was faster than sync speed. You need HSS to shoot with faster shutter speeds.

And shooting in raw allows for plenty of exposure adjusting in post if you aren't 100% in love with the results.

I would pick 24-105mm. 24 good for video mode and wide angle still photos, 50 for full body photo, and 105 for portrait photo.