I was just thinking the same thing. They read my mind!

As a disclaimer, I'm not a pro. However, drift in and of itself is not bad, as long as it is CONSISTENT and not excessive. I'd guess nearly 90% of amateur bowlers drift 3-5 boards. Unfortunately as people move inside they usually drift more and more. For me personally, if I start drifting significantly more when I move left (inside) it is most likely because what I'm trying to do isn't physically possible otherwise. For example sliding on 30 and trying to hit 12 at the arrows. The only way I can do that without guttering is for my mind to auto correct, making me drift right until it's doable or I come around the ball excessively. A lot of us amateurs have angle issues at the root of a lot of our issues. Recording yourself is the best way to get better for sure! I use a tape measure on the approach and put it 5 boards right of where I want to slide.(can use painters tape but ask the center if it's ok first.) I find a lock tape measure safer because it will just move if I hit it instead of making me fly head first into the lane. If I hit the tape I start moving my eyes left or my feet right. Will feel claustrophobic at first. There is also an app called 10 pin bowling that can really help with general targeting. It will let you know immediately if you are trying to do something that isn't possible.

Same here bowling makes me so happy and gives me a break from reality.

Would love to see this too

There are a TON of variables to consider for that. Bowling isn't really mathematical, which as an engineer drives me crazy at times. Different shots, in different houses, with different bowlers throwing different bowling balls makes super specific videos like you suggested tricky. Think coaching may be required for something like this. If someone could do it, it'd be these guys though.

Jim, it isn’t always wrong to continue drifting. The key is that your drift is consistent relative to your starting position. If the guy you’re talking about is drifting significantly to the right, his body is getting in the way of a straight swing path and forcing him into a loopy swing around his hip. With that sort of a swing if he releases just a bit late the ball is heading left.

If he's drifting right, then it doesn't surprise me that he misses left. Moving right means that as he approaches the foul line, he's headed towards to gutter. When you do that, your brain sees you doing it, and you'll unconsciously compensate by trying to force the ball in the opposite direction. The easiest fix, rather than trying to eliminate the drift (which is easier said than done), is to simply compensate for it by adjusting your starting position on the approach. If it's a consistent 5 board drift right, then just line up 5 boards left of where you'd normally stand, and the problem will take care of itself.

Drifting left is one thing. Drifting right is N O T good. Means he's TOO old school with his approach. That kind of approach has been proven to betray natural biomechanics. Not only is it not even close to the modern style, it can also lead to injuries and stuff. Don't know if he still does anything, but Joe Slowinski, one of the best bowling coaches to come down the pike over the last 15-20 years ago, created a brand called Drop Your Damn Shoulder which used to contain a lot of drills on that kind of thing. I remember just posting a video of mine in his fb group in 2014 and although my league average stayed the same (205), my sport league average shot from 175 to 188.

A 3 board drift is nothing to worry about as long a it's consistent, as you can compensate for it by adjusting your starting point on the approach accordingly. That's a hell of a lot easier than trying to correct a natural tendency in your trajectory. If you want to slide on 27 at the foul line, and you know that you consistently drift 3 boards left, just stand on 24.... problem solved. Way easier than trying to turn your approach into a dance routine, lol

This

You're correct...if you're tugging it left, then your hips and shoulders probably need to open up a bit. I had this problem at one point. What works for me is opening up my hips in my stance... if you start open, you'll finish open. Move your right foot back a bit (relative to your left foot) and angle it slightly to the right... doesn't have to be much. A board (or perhaps less) of pivot should suffice, unless you're playing deep inside and really getting the ball out to the right and hooking the entire lane. This opens up your hips, and your shoulders have no choice but to follow. It will keep your swing plane parallel to your target line. I don't miss left nearly as much anymore.

@@notonyourlife7939 love this comment. I struggle with it as well

I'm in the same boat, would love a video on this topic.

@@notonyourlife7939 definitely gonna work on this next time I'm on the lanes.

So you are saying that as long as you are consistent, if you drift, it's ok?

well from an average joe with a 195 average, I'd say that the best options are either battle through the pain, (which idk how bad the pain is obviously I'm not you) and maybe just get used to it or hope it eventually goes away on its own 🤷🏻‍♂️😗 or the other best option imo would be to try and get a little more spine tilt and try to put you're bowling arm and shoulder lower on its own aswell, thats what I had to do a little while ago and it worked for me ever since and no soarness or anything luckily 👌🏼

ALDJ923. Chech out the "kneesovertoesguy" on KZfaq. He has a lot of videos on strengthening the muscles around the knee. You can even do several of the exercises at home. His exercises are designed for people experiencing knee pain and those who want to avoid surgery. I've been doing 7 or 8 of his exercises for about 4 months and have noticed knee improvement. Hope less knee pain can translate to better bowling.

@@davidchamberlain5146 Thanks for looking out. I'll definitely check him out

They do a lot of tips just like these in the coaching group, its awesome and has helped hundreds of people

I also do this. Well, I think I've corrected it. Try some games, purposely focusing on going straight. Try it with no ball

Drift, in and of itself, isn't really a "problem" per se, as long a it's consistent, because you can compensate for it with your starting position on the approach. As long a you know where you want to finish and you know how much you drift, then it's simple math. If you want to slide on 25 and you know that you drift 5 boards to the left, then stand on 20. Problem solved, and there's no need to try and turn your approach into a dance routine....

I suppose I could make the side step on step 2...

When you say "start at 12 and go out to 8", do you mean a target of 12 at the arrows and then 8 at the breakpoint down lane, or are you talking about your starting point on the approach vs. where you're sliding at the foul line? Regardless, calculating drift is easy... you obviously know where you're standing on the approach... after you deliver the ball, note where your slide foot is. As long as your drift is consistent from shot to shot, you can compensate for it by adjusting the board you start on. Drift in and off itself isn't really a "problem", as long as you know you're doing it and adjust accordingly.

@@notonyourlife7939 I throw out 15 board and break point between 10 and 11 board. I have little revs. But I understand what you said. Thank you. You guys are great. I root for both of you during tournament season. Are you ever coming to jersey. Would love to do a pro-am with you guys.

Neither... your swing needs to be parallel to whatever your target line is. If it's not, it doesn't really matter where your arm is relative to your body, because if your swing is not parallel to the target line, it's impossible to project the ball in the direction you want it to go. If you're playing inside and trying to swing the ball out to the right, then squaring up to the lane isn't going to help you, because your swing will be pointing in another diction, away from your target. Hips and shoulders (and thus your swing plane) always need to be parallel to the direction you want to ball to go. Otherwise you're forcing yourself to correct half way through your approach... you'll be pushing and pulling all over the place, and it'll be very difficult to hit your target consistently.

The coaching membership can have the boys and coach daniel take a personal look at your game and give you some pointers on arm swing if thats what you’re looking for! Link is in the description 😁

Pretend there is an eyeball on your right shoulder and aim it at the 6 pin. Now your body is lined up. Then move your eyeballs to your target and go. So if you are standing on 20, and your target is the 12 board, position your swing plane towards the 6 pin, eyes to 12 and go. That's what I have to do once I have to start moving left. You can make minor adjustments like right side of 6 pin if it needs to go more right a hair, or left closer to the 3 pin.

In my opinion, whatever feels the most comfortable for you is what is best. Some people take 3 steps and I've seen people take 6+ steps. It just depends on what is comfortable and helps you stay consistent.

Depends how fast you are with your feet and if that causes inconsistencies. I used to go with five steps, but realized that was making me sprint to the foul line. And since I don't have a lot of rotation it was detrimental. So I went four step. Threw it even harder. Now I do six steps, and it has been matching me up perfectly. Ball speed matched up with rotation for once lol.

There are plenty of two handed bowlers in the group! Coach Daniel is a certified coach and is capable of helping players of all skill levels and styles!

It's not the same game that it was 30 years ago...fitting is done differently now. Spans are shorter, and the modern grip/release is not what it was in years past. The perceived wisdom that you have to throw the heaviest ball you can manage in order to get good pin carry, simply isn't true with today's dynamic core designs. This has been proven empirically by the USBC through a series of rather exhaustive studies on ball motion with modern equipment of varying weights... you lose virtually nothing in terms of impact energy, even with a14 lb ball... and in most cases, you can actually increase it with an increase in ball speed, which is obviously easier to achieve with a lighter weight ball. Hardly anybody on the pro tour uses 16 lb equipment anymore. If you want to leave fewer corner pins, I have two words for you: BALL SPEED. Carry one more 10 pin per game, and your average will climb 10+ pins... which is exactly what happened when I dropped down to 15lbs, because I was able to increase my ball speed, changing nothing else about my game. 3 cheers for physics! 👍

I started bowling a few months ago and when I bought my 1st ball the pro shop guys all laughed. I throw a 12 lb ball. Now I am only 5' 7" around 145lb. I am averaging 190 with high games of 219, 220, 230 and 232. The reason my average isn't over 200 is because I am still very inconsistent with most of my mechanics. The ball weight is perfect for me, however. I get so many 'lucky' strikes because the ball reflects off the pins on your first shot as it drives thru and yet still has enough weight to drive thru a front pin to pick up any sleepers. The reason most guys are going for 14 lb + is because the cores in 12 and 13 lb bowling balls are slightly modified to meet the lower weight without sacrificing the cover stock energy.

@@notonyourlife7939 Yeah I went from 15lbs to 14lbs and I REALLY wish I had done that a decade or so ago...WAY less pressure on my shoulder, I can control my speed way more with em, and I can rotate em a lot better too.

16lb equipment and even some 15lb equipment isn't necessary now since today's equipment is WAY stronger than it was in the 1990s and even 2000s.

@@ObjectiveEthics you will soon outgrow your 12 pound ball. 145 pounds, a 14 pound ball should be good.

We will have some more vlog style content coming in a few weeks!