This video shows a project I worked on for hoisting and storing a canoe in the garage. I have also shown some basic physics calculations which show why this design works well. Hope you enjoy, thanks
Пікірлер: 47
@rbrooke23794 жыл бұрын
Free body diagram and force calculated! I'm so excited to see an engineered system on youtube.
@heidis866310 жыл бұрын
Ah ha - so that little silver ring is not merely decoration! I followed your design and can easily store my canoe. Thanks for the excellent post!
@1divemaster111 жыл бұрын
I feel like we deserve an engineering degree after watching that. Good job and thanks for info.
@MrDonHaynes10 жыл бұрын
Great post... I made a hoist system for my kayak with the same pulley set up as you have. I had an old boat winch that I installed to lift the whole system. It works great!... Thanks for the post!
@wiljon2311 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to present your idea...great job!
@Appokalis7 жыл бұрын
Thank you for making this video, it provided me with the proper information to make my own hoisting system. I also have a canoe that is taking too much space in my garage.
@Gearloose10011 жыл бұрын
A sucessful project. Like the way you described the workings of your hoisting system. Good job.
@jross38011 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Nicely presented and I appreciated the physics
@wileydeal65579 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your design and a little physics along the way. I would offer one suggestion that will help with access to the other items in your garage. I noticed that you complicated access to your bicycle by routing the line straight to the cleat from the nearest pulley. You could avoid this by routing your line through an additional pulley mounted to the rafter directly above the cleat. While this adds a little resistance to the complete system, it will route the line between your bicycle and the wall.
@htgecko11 жыл бұрын
Many thanks for sharing this. Good work!
@smileclick10 жыл бұрын
I was using a pair of blocks each with 4 pulleys, trying to reduce the effort required to pull my boat onto my car's roof racks (via a ramp). I used a digital luggage scale to see how much force I was needing to use before the boat would move. What I found was that the friction in each cheap pulley was significant. In the end I used less pulleys (2 at one end and one at the other) but they had ball bearings on the axels. It made a massive difference. It was much easier to lift using the 3x ratio than the 7x ratio, just because it had much less friction!
@logmeindangit5 жыл бұрын
Using a larger diameter pulley would also reduce the friction felt in a bearing-less pulley. Just providing options...
@smileclick10 жыл бұрын
Great video. Want I mean to say in my last post is that if you used pulleys with ball bearings the lower friction may result in the canoe staying more level on the way up and down.
@fultzjap10 жыл бұрын
I followed your design and hoisted my 17' Pelican tight to the ceiling! I initially gapped the mounts by one truss (24") but had to reduce that to 6" on the same truss to overcome angular increase in force required at full height. U rock dood!
@cjhoyle10 жыл бұрын
Nice! I'm glad you found the video helpful!
@imsuperserialguys11 жыл бұрын
nice video, heres a tip, when you tie the rope to the cleat, put a twist in it and hook it around the cleat after going around a few times and that will prevent it from slipping whithout having to have a knot
@onesciencedad10 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the math, too. Boat rope holder called a "cleat". Good, too, to have an additional pully up the wall to avoid diagonal line and a better hold for the cleat. Great informative video, though.
@Just1Spark11 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Great video that helped me out. But, (since I have a higher ceiling) I think I could do the same, but with less pulleys. 1 rope split into two, going to each end of my kayak, then going up to 1 pulley directly above my kayak, then transferring over to another pulley on the wall. So basically 1 rope, 2 pulleys, and the rope split into 2 at the very end for the kayak. Would save me 1 pulley I think.
@0GSoon Жыл бұрын
Nice system and I am going to make one. Right now I raised canoe (about 75lbs) one end at the time use a 4:1 pulley assembly called boom vang in a sailboat. Btw, tie a cleat hitch at rope end will look much nice and simple.
@cjhoyle Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Th3mast3r6911 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@moejos10 жыл бұрын
Nice work, I have the same problem, to much load on two pully system.
@DB-bj5wv3 жыл бұрын
Cool. Pushing down the end of the canoe that rises faster will limit how high you can get it in a tall garage because of your reach, but you can tie a piece of rope so it dangles down from the wood support at that end of the canoe and pull the rope down rather than push the end of the canoe down. There are ways to keep a mechanical advantage of four without one end climbing higher, but they all involve using more pulleys or they involve more complicated block and tackle devices and probably aren't worth the trouble.
@cjhoyle3 жыл бұрын
The reason for one end rising faster than the other is because of the friction and mass of the pulleys. In High School physics classes you usually simplify these types of problems by assuming the pulleys are frictionless and massless. In the real world they aren't, but perhaps if I had purchased better quality pulleys the impact would have been less.
@DB-bj5wv3 жыл бұрын
I just installed a hoist system yesterday that I bought on Amazon a few days ago It was inexpensive, $53 Canadian dollars, and has two independent pulley systems, one for each end of my kayak. Each system has a mechanical advantage of 2, and comprises of one fixed pulley, one free pulley (that can go up or down) and a rope that's fixed at one end. It works pretty well, and you can pull the two ropes simultaneously (the resulting mechanical advantage is still 2). I might add another fixed pulley between the two systems and use one long rope through both systems instead. If I do, I'll have the same type of system as yours, with and ideal MA of 4. I guess the manufacturer didn't include this extra fixed pulley because a mechanical advantage of 2 is good enough, and because the two ends of the kayak will rise at the same rate, and maybe the extra friction from an additional fixed pulley would defeat any gain in M.A. I just wish my garage was a bit taller so I could drop the kayak right onto the roof of my car using the pulley hoist! Thanks for posting.
@kjbaert11 жыл бұрын
to raise equally you would need two ropes. would be hard to explain but you would not have to pull as much rope either.
@cattail39 жыл бұрын
How did you determine the distance between attach points on the rafters? How far apart the pulleys and stationary attach point are from each other???
@cjhoyle9 жыл бұрын
cattail3 The distance between attach points will depend on the length of the canoe your are hoisting. In my case, I was upgrading an existing system, so I just stayed with the same rafters that were already being used.
@cattail39 жыл бұрын
cjhoyle I am hoisting a raider bass boat (a lot heavier) at 10 feet long.... should I position the attach points equidistant from the bow and stern?
@cjhoyle9 жыл бұрын
cattail3 You should position them so that the load is equally balanced. For example, if the stern is heavier than the bow, the rope at the back should be further from the stern than the front rope is from bow. Also, with a boat like that, since there is no curvature, I would think you'd want hangers for it which are more complex than what I used. Best of luck with the project, let me know how it turns out!
@guybrandenburg29543 жыл бұрын
You have a 2:1 mechanical advantage. I made a design for nearly the same thing, with a 3:1 ratio with a double pulley at the top. Unfortunately my system appears to have so much friction I can’t pull it up at all.
@cjhoyle3 жыл бұрын
Awe that's too bad.
@cjhoyle10 жыл бұрын
I think that would be easy to tie, but probably difficult to untie.
@logmeindangit5 жыл бұрын
You could use a loop in a simple knot, so when you want to un-tie the rope, just pull on the end of the rope and pull out the loop. Knot undone! I use that method all the time when tying loads onto a trailer. To keep it from failing while driving, I then tie the loop around the tensioned rope in one more simple knot, and Voila! Ready to roll!
@th1amigo3 жыл бұрын
What is the length of the canoe? Thickness of rope and pulley size?
@cjhoyle3 жыл бұрын
The canoe is about 55 lbs and 16 ft long. I believe the rope was about 1/4" diameter.
@randyreek9 жыл бұрын
Harbor Freight bike hoist for $8.99 - plus some added heavier rope.
@brianevancic9 жыл бұрын
Randy Reek Have you don't this with a canoe. I'm curious if the bike hoist will hold 60lbs?
@potaylo11 жыл бұрын
try some wd-40 on the far pulley friction areas. make a spreadsheet of rotational force reduction. Just kidding
@GHOSTGXZ10 жыл бұрын
wouldnt it have been easier to just tie the rope to the wall mount with a simple slipknot?
@johnpalmer534310 жыл бұрын
I looks like the canoe is unbalanced from the start. If the hoists were spaced equal distance from each end of the canoe they should be lifting equal weight and should rise at the same rate. You might try fish scales to know if each pulley is actually lifting equal weight, and if the front should be heavier to rise evenly.
@g.r72557 жыл бұрын
I patterned my system similar to your original design except I ran the rope to a corner using a trailer winch to raise and lower my canoe with cleats on the cross board sandwiching the inverted gunnels so it will not shift or slip. I used the same design for my 4 kayaks hanging them with the sides vertical rather than flat. Takes a little longer to lift but one person can lift and lower all watercraft on a level plane and easily. Another advantage is I can stop at any level if needed and the lowering is very controlled.
@chrispierce29425 жыл бұрын
How to make a simple project and complicate the hell out of it
@mr.bennman27264 жыл бұрын
Use better quality larger diameter pulleys and a lot of your problems will go away.