That beer at the end of the day when you have actually accomplished something the way you have thought and planned it through, priceless.

A tip that I would add. When making brake lines, I try to make the brake caliper line into the caliper lower than the bleed port in the caliper, and the routing far side of any given section should be lower than the master and any section of the line. ie start at caliper and try to ONLY go up to the master, no high points for air to get trapped in between the caliper and the master. Makes bleeding the brakes 100x easier.

I have to admit that this was by far the best video that I seen involving a part of a build. The flat out best complete brake line installation with such ease a clean as heck. I love this video. Thanks.

the most beautiful flares happen when the fitting isn't on the line... and usually when i cant spare 1/4" to cut it back

great video. good information and production. just a note. NPT stands for "National Pipe Tapered" as opposed NPS which are "straight" threads. it's common for many to think the "T" in NPT stands for "Thread" but important for the DIY'er to know the difference so the correct fittings are used. Thanks again for making video

Love this video, it kind of makes me feel better knowing that others are using cuprinol (copper/nickel) lines on their cars. I have installed this on my brake and clutch systems on my 65 MGB, and I just love how it goes together. Great idea on using Rivnuts to secure the line clips. I am going to utilize some of these as well. Thanks for posting and great looking car.

Love your demo. You helped me immensely with a perspective I hadn’t thought of.

Great video. Thanks. I did want to mention that I've had terrible success with using pressure switches in-line. They seem to work fine at first, but after a while, you need to press harder and harder on the brakes to close the circuit. I even found a "low pressure" switch on line and installed it with the same end result after a short time. I became so paranoid about losing brake lights that I installed a small indicator on my dash that only lit when the signal was sent to the the actual brake lights. Ultimately, I installed a mechanical switch which solved everything, but I kept the in dash indicator.

Thank you for a great video. Love the terminal idea on the firewall and using NiCopp. Will use these on my project.

Great Video as usual. Came at a very good time. I am currently plumbing the brake lines for my 67. I really like the nutsert idea.

Seriously phenomenal editing on this video. Subscribed and checking out your other stuff now. Large Marge's brake lines look nice!

Thx for being such an inspiration with this build been following all along and just love how this beast is coming along. Makes me always want work and continue my build on my fox body mustang!

Great stuff, thanks. one of my first few projects will be brake lines so looking into that line. Thanks!

Thank you for this. I had been dreading this part of my project 53 Bel Air, but I think I can go in with confidence now.

Enjoyed the video. Nice post processing and use of multiple camera angles as well; many folks don't know what all goes into that part of making these videos. I've got a Ford project of another nature going at the moment and can relate to the brake plumbing, suspension and other task required to get these old vehicles back on the road and in tip top shape. Mine's a '67 F100 Pickup. Keep up the good work, I've subscribed and will be keeping up with your work for sure. Take care, Clay

huh, every bit as good of a production and content as a sponsored show you'd find on TV. subbing. thanks for the vid.

Awesome set up! I’m definitely taking notes! Cheers on the tecate! 👌

Great Videos, You're inspiring me to document my build. Nice sanitary work, I like the direction you've gone. Thanks for doing a nice thorough job on explaining as you go.

Love these videos. Your car is going to look sick when you finish it. Can't wait!

Awesome video Jason! I have always preferred using stainless steel, but will definitely try the NiCopp or nickel copper lines over steel lines. Enjoy your journey with Large Marge. She looks cool! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

HELPED ME OUT TREMENDOUSLY ON MY 1980 F100 BUILD I WAS STUCK BUT THIS GAVE ME THE DIRECTION AND MODIVATION I NEEDED ! PLUS 1 SUBSCRIBER TODAY !

Amazing video! I cant wait to redo all my brake lines when converting to Manual Brakes. Make it look a ton nicer!

Thank you so much sir, always enjoy watching your videos and learning how to put my mechanic skills to use

Very informative, you just solved most of my brake line problems, thank you. Add more videos, if available.

Awesome! I have 1965 mustang with a new set of wilwood brakes in which I need to plumb new lines to the front and rear your video helps out a lot. Thanks!

Great video. Such a refreshing change from all the other DIY vids. Thanks!

I absolutely love all of your videos! You keep me intrigued with everything you've done to this car and I learn a lot along the way! Thank you good Sir! Makes me want to go and wrench on my own mustang now haha

very nice set up. I have been playing with the idea of upgrading some of my brake system on my 85 k20 suburban. I would keep most of the hard lines but use flex lines off the master and the calipers

another great vid, as I watch this I'm installing the 1 1/8" TCP front anti roll bar on the 69 fastback. I have their power rack and pinion conversion on the way. Their coilover conversion is on and Baer 6P brakes are waiting to go on. Your vids really lay out what I'm in for and help me as I go along doing this same build on my car. and as always.. Pinto is a badass. I look forward to future vids.

Doing it for my first time tomorrow. I've seen every tip now. Still dread it

Awesome as always! Pups and Hotrods...so cool. Had to remake a wicked hard to make line loc line because I forgot to put the end on. Good catch. lol

wow what a quality video, great video editing, this was so easy to see and understand. great work

subscribed, you sir are a true car enthusiasts. Down to details. quality work.

Man the break line fab sounded, intimidating, you made it look almost doable for a nube amateur like me. Thanks.

Nice clean look with some custom touches. Good job !!

Quality of work is mind blowing. Well done!

This was an awesome video. I can now go forward with confidence on my project. Gonna try that line as well. Thanks.

Yeah, Man the Niclke Q stuff is AMAZING!

mate you did a great job of explaining the process and was very helpful! cheers

The editing on this video was great. Keep up the good work man. I can't wait to see her finished.

once again I am blown away. you do such nice work Jason! Oh and the nut riviter is one of my favorite tools. - Ronnie

Great video with useful points made. Thanks!

From Australia Thank you very much! Helps a lot.

Recently subscribed! I like your series Jason! I also have a Dodge Ram Crew..2500. And a 1991 YJ...cheers man!

Thanks For the video men ! helping me so much in the other side of the ocean

Thank you! That was a great video. I’m working on my first real project vehicle… a 1952 Chevy 3100. Your video will be a great help.

Man your install looks amazing! I want to make mine look the same on my 53 studebaker truck I’m building for Mark Tremonti the lead guitarist for creed!🤘🏻

I’ve used those threaded inserts for 20+ years. I’m pretty sure Nutserts are the actual name. Great video.

just flawless, and a perfect choice.. tecate roja. Greets from Mexico

Nice work and useful explanation.

Impressive production value on these videos.

Very nice video, I am doing a 70 Ford F100 with Crown Victoria front and rear end and CV power brake booster, By watching this I now can build my own distribution block. Now I don't need to purchase a brass distribution block, will do my own line routing like in the video all should work out for my application.

I have a similar flare tool. I was going to use SS line but switched to NiCopp. I had ABSOLUTELY no luck double flaring it. Perhaps it's easier with a single flare and AN fittings. SS line is hard stuff.

Hey just came across your video. Well done. I'm a retired U.S. Navy Jet Mech/Search and Rescue/Vertical Replenishment AirCrewman. On one Det I was rushing to complete a line and was under the gun to complete it. I had told the Boss no problem we'll make it. Then I did exactly what you were talking about with regards to the sleeve. I just made my launch time for a major replenishment with the carrier. I kicked myself in the a** over it and my det didn't let me forget it. When your mouth writes checks your a** best cash them.

i enjoy these longer videos, great to see the progress,.. and always the best part of any proyect is when you sit back and look at the part you just finished and take a cold big zip of TECATE... i ussually mix the order in those steps jaja... until my wife comes out and says -i thought you where fixin the jeep,... and i say naa im too drunk now jaja... anyway keep up the good work and as always still waiting on the burnouts ...they seem so close now... SALUDos from MEXICO!!1

Tell me more about the your brake master cylinder. Part #'s, etc. Love your work. Very informative.

Yes , I too have screwed up . Just finished plumbing my 68 Cougar project . Forgot fitting , fitting backwards , bent line with fitting on wrong side of bend , etc........ but it looks great when done .

I used the plumbes of an old porsche in my car . And parts (stainless) from a truck. Cleaned everything, and they are good quality. Had to emend some things, machinist work, but not big deal. Free stuff,I used to rebuild things from scratch.

Great video...thanks for posting it. I am currently building a racing car and am faced with fabbing up a brake system. I was considering using braided steel/teflon lined hose in 100% of the system, rather than alternating between the braided hose and hard lines. It would have a lot of advantages...fewer joints....complete flexibility....and the braided hose is actually tougher and less likely to be damaged than hard lines...because it is immune to vibration damage that can fracture a hard line that is not properly designed and mounted. It is also less likely to be crimped or permanently crushed due to damage. I got a lot of predictable advice "use hard lines as much as possible or you will have a soft pedal...." etc. While pondering all this.....I was looking at tech photos of a modern DTM racing car....arguably the highest technology racing in the world today (less restricted by rules than F1)....and the brake system on this car was plumbed 100% with braided steel hose. I figured if they didn't have a mushy pedal....neither would I....and decided to forego the hard line thing altogether. I agree with the poster below....it is laughable that Wilwood still sells brake system parts plumbed with NPT. Why they do that is beyond me.

Thank you so much. I enjoyed your video. You made it look simple. On the farm I quickly found out that teflon tape and hydraulic fluid are a no-win combination. There are pastes out there, such as one from Loctite, that work well but the white stuff on a roll should not be used. Thank you for making such an informative video.

Look up Kool Tools and their flare lapping tools, perfect seal every time.

Pissing it laughing...first the dog interrupting. And then flaring and forgetting the fitting. Did it twice on same damn flare. Best friend still teases me.

brilliant video and Great quality. Kind of surprised you dont have more views on this. 👍

coat hanger. Genius!!

Not much into car tinkering but I was very entertained anyway and I like your style and humour 👍

Great video. Thanks. My only observation is since I am new to all this it would have been good to see close up shots of the rivnut sequence. I can always look elsewhere for that, however. Thanks again.

This is awesome! Thank you for sharing this

this was very informative. Thanks!

Wow, great work. Looks really good.

I love to see the old time wire coathanger being used! So much more impressive than just hanging clothes on it. Where do you get these suckers any more? Dry Cleaning stores! LOL I've got to run brake lines on my 56 Chevy Belair. Good thing I found this perfect brake line video! Thanks

Amazing job

I enjoyed this video. Good job!

Excellent instruction Jason good job

great quality video, keep these coming! :)

Very neat fabrication.

Great video! i always keep backing to your videos for tips and parts idea for my 68 cougar. Im doing the same thing as you are with the wilwood firewall mount with the three reservoirs. I just had one question, whats the part numbers to those master cylinders? Thanks man, and love your videos!

I'm glad this video is recommended to me. Now I'm a subscriber. Great video by the way.

Looks great..ty for showing this..helps alot..

bends are realy nicely done

Nice work. I use nickel copper tubing in industrial heat exchangers and it's tough as nail.

awesome i plan on doing something similar to my 66 mustang.

Very informative,thanks for posting...

I would also add, coming from being a diesel tech on tractor trailers, that we were taught in brake class to use liquid tephlon vs tape bc it’s possible if a small piece in in the air stream, or in your case fluid stream, break off in the system, it could cause brake system failure. OCD is beating me up over that run on sentence.

Perfectly executed 👏

Awesome work, I have read up on that line recently too and was wondering how it was to use.

We just used the nickel copper to redo all the brake lines on a customers 34 Ford. That stuff is great!

Greetings from Germany. Nice work. Looks pretty awesome

Love your narration and personality

I usually skip to these tutorials because it takes a long time to get to the point, but you sir kept me interested from start to finish. you diffidently got me pumped to keep working on my car. btw where did you get those flex lines?

Nice work!

Amazing, I would try to my old car, buat I have difficulty to buy necessary fitting in my country. Good job

thanks for the video, very helpful

great tutorial ! thanks!

NiCu Is Great Working With!!....Plus I Live in the North East...Lots of Salt!!....Many Brake Lines!!

Awesome vid, great work. thanks

Man, you're a nice person. Thank you. No worries about heat or anything with AN stuff?v I kept blowing fluid out of the front of the master cylinder cap, so time to replace everything I guess.

Nice simple brake line install 🙂

nice work man

@autoedit...sure wish you would give more detail in the narrative about the parts and tools you used. I had never heard of Rivet Nuts until I watched this video...what tool are you using and where did you get it from? What about the anchors you used to attach the hardline to the firewall (I think you said you got them from Lokar)? I am in the middle of making the lines for the brake system on my 65 Fastback and you have me rethinking my approach. I have a conventional Master Cylinder and adjustable Proportioning valve. Wondering if I can use AN fittings like you did instead of the conventional break fittings.

Great video. I'll definitely be playing this over and over out in the garage as I plumb my system. (Great video quality too, some guys look like they're filming in a dark closet through a pair of pantyhose.)