Thank you for that! 👍

You wouldn’t be the first! 🤣

That sounds nice. Glad I could help.

Thank you Sir! 👍

Artur Brzozowski check the Fort that goes on top!

I love a practical application of theory! 👍

Cheers bud! 👍

Glad it was helpful!

Because the weight is spread, it’s not an issue. If you have naturally soft ground, you could increase the number of posts. If you want to dig down and concrete each post in, that’s great but largely unnecessary 👍

On a small deck like this stand the posts on a solid base (flag stone) and then screw the beams on. On an elevated deck concrete the posts in fully.

@@KingBespokeCreations I wanted to do a 12 by 9.5. My dirt is a little soft though. When it rains my feet sink in about 4-6 inches. what should I do?

@@MonicaMartinez-np5fe with ground that soft it would probably be wise to concrete the posts in. Dig the holes 9-12” deep then screw all the base and posts together before concreting the post holes.

Incidentally, your boards would benefit from a slightly larger space as it will help with water and air can pass, which will result in less clutter in the long run.

@@Tvede2613 hi, thanks for the information. I understand both points you are making. However the boards were grooved on both sides, give us the better looking top to use. As for spacing, the boards were soaking wet when delivered and laid down. This would only ever create a bigger gap as they dry.

Regarding the grooves turned downwards..a joiner once told me the same thing at work..but somewhere along the line, the grooves started appearing upwards (rightly or wrongly) as an anti slip measure, and to disperse water. Now it has become a matter of choice for the amateur. The film was right up my street, and I'm going to have a go in the spring..I'm going grooves up..👍

I recognise this style of board. They have dual grooves. One side is more grooved than the side he has facing upwards which will give better airflow. I'm just replacing our decking which has been down circa 10 years and the previous owner put the heavily groves on top which not only hurt your bare feet, but also had less airflow. So I think he has done it correctly in the video. The new boards I have are only single sided, with flat board on top and heavy groove for bottom (got a good price at the timber yard!) You can see his boards are fairly green still from pressure treatment meaning they will shrink more and likely leave a gap 👍 otherwise he would have been left with massive gaps after the shrinkage.

It would need a bit of maths! Depends how wide each board is 👍

If the bark is doing it’s job of weed control, just leave it. I would only replace it with a membrane to stop weeds growing underneath the deck 👍

2x4 beams and 4x4 post. If you built the deck higher you could use 2x6 beams

It’s Pressure treated (tanalised) pine from the local yard.

@@KingBespokeCreations Ta!

@@KingBespokeCreations Thank you for this video - very helpful. Is that 2 by 4 that you've used for the joists?

@@dc10166 hi, yes on this occasion it was 2x4’s for the frame. On a relatively small deck and as many posts as it needed to feel solid, they work fine. If you’re going big, you could use 2x6 planks and have less posts needed in the ground.

I like to work with practical measurements. If the frame is set and laid out the post will be in the right place. If I just measure and dig the post holes, it’s too easy to have them be a bit off!

@@KingBespokeCreations makes sense. So you framed, marked where the postholes needed to go, and then dug with framework in place? Or did you need to move framework much to get the holes dug?

@@nomsolo9935 most of it can be done with the frame in place. Not needing to go very deep with this one. But if you’re putting big posts in then by all means move the frame, or maybe stand it up out of the way.

They have a little concrete slab under each and some mixed concrete to hold them in place. I would fully dig the post in on a raised deck

This was the only bit I was also interested in, however, the video skipped it all together .....all great otherwise

No, they’re grooved on both sides. Ugly grooves on the bottom, nice rounded grooves on the top

Pretty much. It’s making sure the beams don’t flex and can’t warp under moisture changes too 👍

Yes that was enough here. Close to ground, you can easily put another post in if feel any flex

Fence posts for legs. 2x4 for the rails and then the decking planks. For the right amount of those, most decent wood yards will help you out if you give them the area to deck.

I’ve never had a large nail move, just pre-drill the first piece. No spaces needed as the decking was soaking when I laid it. So will get spacing as it dries 👍

@@KingBespokeCreations Quality