Thanks a lot and good luck on your shaker, let me know how it works out.

Thank you very much that is honestly a really nice compliment and means a lot. I appreciate you checking out the video.

Thanks yea trying not to push him, just let him join in as he wants seems to have worked best so far

thanks a lot really appreciate you checking out the videos.

Thanks, as you know from experience this is a challenging install. Don't let the video fool you I also spent a lot of time with the heat shrinking disc getting the hood where I wanted it. I am sure every time you see your shaker it makes it worth all the effort.

Thanks a lot appreciate you checking out my videos!

That's awesome

You're welcome thanks for watching!

thanks a lot

And one other point... I fully agree that the vise grip tool would make this job 20x more difficult... The bead roller did a great job on a single pass.

@@twinturbo496 That's is so Cool to hear the video helped you out! Makes the process and extra time making them really worth it. Thanks for sharing that with me. Also the idea with the 4 post lift and rolling bead roller is a really good idea. If I ever do another hood conversion I will trying that method.

Thank you!

Thank you very much, I hope you are able to get your Challenger finished.

@@carthageclassiccars me too. For me it’s about finding the right person to do the work. Someone who’s about the details and not about pumping out more cars.

So here is my take on sandblasting, I personally would never dry blast outer panels, your at 90 psi with all the heat and pressure if you don't warp it you got really lucky. I will say dry blasting the inner structure is a preferred method for me however if the quarters, roof and panels are off a vehicle and it can be properly washed well with the rust inhibitor in the solution I fell there is no difference between the two blasting the water blasting is less aggressive while getting the job done. The wet blasting is a lower psi 30-40 and high volume. Also my opinion and there are many ways to do this but I would clean the hood first so many hoods are damaged or have issues with them it would stink to put all the work installing the bracing to then find out the hood is junk. Personally i think chemically stripping or hand stripping the outer portion of the hood in my preferred method but super labor intensive. On telling the difference you are correct you can tell, however in this car its not a true shaker car or even a BS VIN Cuda car so the extra work to do that isn't worth it. There are many cars we get in here like that owners just want all they care about and not everyone in that into the small details some are and good for both kinds of owners. I feel if you wanted to properly replicate a factory hood ( I feel can do that also) you need a factory style spot welder pull the entire outer skin off the hood and build the frame with the spot welder then attach the outer structure back together. I believe that's how the factory would have built them just thinking about it and reverse engineering. As for this video I talked to the owner since the build and this exceeded his expectations to the goal was accomplished here i feel.

Glad to hear that thank you!

thank you

Thank you

Thank you! I agree and will add I saw an original shaker with trim ring my buddy sent me from the mopar nationals around $7500 earlier this year, it is an option especially with the supply issues we are running into at this point in time. The reason the aftermarket hood was purchased in the first place it literally was the only one available. This conversion might be the only way in the future if you have to have that shaker under your E body.

Actually i never thought of it that way thanks for the input on that, learn something new each day.

this whole kit was from shakerhood.com called the Cuda or challenger shaker hood conversion kit. I will add it to the description thanks for the advice.

Thank you very much, the brand weld through primer I have been using lately is Seymore 2-=1675. I haven't had any issues with it affecting any of my welds. I do not usually continuously weld most panels unless I am doing patches. That does not mean this is a bad idea but I think its extra heat and work added that is not needed. So the drip rails and the area on the outside you are speaking of I will usually use a 3m self leveling seam sealer but I will apply it way after all the metal work is complete. Usually on the inside seams I will use a regular seam sealer.

@@carthageclassiccars​​⁠​​⁠in the past I have had to scratch weldable primer to get a good start. Do you have to put the etch primer on first? Will it lift the epoxy primer if spray covers it? Does it come in a spray can? You put that sealer in between the metal’s overlap or after the welding from inside? I’m still learning mig settings. I’m improving but a video would be nice to see your progress. If you only removed the quarters a few times then you are lucky. I am having trouble getting the quarters to push against the rear deck so my trunk has a better gap. If you have live sessions that would be awesome. I’m jealous of your rotisserie. I might look for used one. I’ll be watching the video a few times. You cover a lot of details but keep doing it.

The bead roller stand is the Eastwood one that is made for their 24 inch bead roller which I also had for a while. Originally I bought this smaller 8 inch bead roller specifically for this job and the idea was have one of us hold the bead roller by hand and the other turn it like you suggested. Once I got it set up I think it would have worked but would have been easier to slip up doing it that way. I think and the stand idea was a last minute thought and I am glad we went that route. It would probably be better if you built a stand out of a 18 wheeler brake drum and metal coming up from there if was doing this all the time. as the legs on the stand kept hitting the saw horse. Thanks for watching!

I would be willing to do just a hood. Feel free to email me at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss your hood and what you are looking for, thank you.

Thank you. That is a very good question, this install was a bit of a process. I do think to get the quality fitment of the factory hood with the aftermarket the entire skin would have to be removed from the structure. The frame hood structure would have to be cut and bent to the proper shape of the car and the outer skin then welded back into place. Both jobs are labor intensive and I have this hood around the garage so that might be a future video if the right car comes along that will need another shaker hood and there are none available.

thank you and 3m 08463 flexible foam. When you do tackle your hood good luck with it.

Thanks and I don't even know how many are around. I started out racing and building dirt circle race cars for others before the restoration stuff got busy so I have run the 34 number since 2005 and when I destroy a door or replace the body I just hung it on the wall I like the memories and the wife won't let me hang them in the living room so this is the only place they fit.

I have built other custom shaker hoods, for instance I have a Jeep TJ wrangler where 15 years ago I built a shaker hood on top of a 350 Chevy engine in it just to be unique. I think with these cars the amount of money invested them your usually either factory or nothing.

@Carthage Classic Cars TJ's are a great looking platform. I'll bet that thing is an animal. It pains me to see all of these new cobbled up four door Fiat street queen "Jeeps" driving around when they could have built a 2-door CJ-8 style and kept the 4.0L that you can stroke with a 258 crank.

Yes I agree

Honestly I am not a fan of most new vehicles but I do like them better then most of the other modern options. I think I am backwards and would graph some 70 panels on a new challenger to have the old styling on a modern comfort.

@Carthage Classic Cars Even more criminal is that they never built a new 'cuda with styling cues from the '71, despite the enormous popularity of the new Challenger. What a missed opportunity.

@@russingersoll5761 Yes I have the same opinion on you with that. My only guess is since Plymouth is no longer around it would have been hard to model the new Dodge after it when the Challenger was in the Dodge family.

That 440 block that had the broken ear I welded up a few weeks back is what will be installed in this car.

@@carthageclassiccars Sorry, forgot about that vid. So any car vids :o) I was thinking the one that went into the pastors truck from that car.

Best way is just send me an email carthageclassiccars@gmail.com

This kit came from shakerhood.com they offer a kit for the Challengers and Cuda's.