Thanks Thomas - Hope they provided some inspiration

Thanks Susy 👍🏻 It’s still standing so I did something right!

Thanks Adrian - Good luck with the workshop

Cheers Big Pete!

@@therestorationstation5475 no worries buddy.

Thanks Terry appreciate it

You’re welcome - Glad it was of some use!

I agree im in the same boat this has been great inspiration

you to god bless you and your family

Thanks Roy - I don’t imagine for a minute that my video is the best guide but I’m glad if it’s been of some use! The beers do help!

Cheers Edward - Will bare that in mind 👍🏻

Thanks Luke - I’m flattered anyone is watching at all tbh! As for the door - It’s holding up perfectly so far. The wider a door, the more it wants to ‘sag’ under it’s own weight. That’s why it’s important to have diagonal braces transferring the sagging load directly back towards the three hinges, one for each ledge.

@@therestorationstation5475 great I will bear that in mind, a single door will be easier to secure too. Thank you.

Hi Taj - thanks very much. All studs 2x2 except roof and doorway timbers which are 3x2. The bearing timbers and doorway timbers are treated as they are likely get wet but other wise not, in order to keep costs down. The feather board is also treated. I believe this is a reasonable compromise between cost and longevity

Thanks for the reply. I am torn with the base you have OR a base of 2x4 all around and using the concrete floor as the base. 1. OSB on timber bearers 2. Frame that sit on risers or anchor jacks 3. Frame that is flush on the concrete and secured on by anchor bolts

The base is completely free draining, not concrete. Considering the bearing timbers are pressure treated the bitumen paint would have been overkill. If the base was a concrete pad, I might have been tempted to paint them since there is more chance they could be sat in pooled water.

Hi Gary and thanks. No issues with condensation since there are so many gaps between the timbers - It’s just a very basic storage shed that keeps the water off the stuff inside. If the timbers were very closely fitted e.g. tongue and groove or osb walls then I might consider leaving a vent gap under the eaves, ensuring (wind blown) rain couldn’t get in or, especially if I wanted it insulated, start to consider breathable membranes etc etc etc

I’ll be honest - not going to bother with guttering (as much as I agree it could be added for the sake of completeness and maybe e.g. supply a water butt for the garden) Whilst I wanted to build a decent shed for necessary storage, it had to be cost effective as my limited funds will be better spent elsewhere on the restoration of the house. I created a drip edge to ensure water falls beyond the shed sides as much as possible. The base was purpose built raised and free draining above ground level. The underside and edges waterproofed with blackjack. The shed sides overhang. This should be sufficient to minimise splash back

Glad it was of some use! Floor bearers: 2”x2” Floor osb: 2400mm x 1200mm Wall timber/nogs: 2”x2” Door king studs: 3”x2” Roof Osb: 2440mm x 1220mm (true 8’x4’) Standard roof battens under roof drip edge. Featherboard: 150mm boards All timber was bought to utilise the cheapest standard ‘off the shelf’ sizes e.g. 2.4m / 3.6m / 4.8m and the shed built in increments of 600mm to reduce waste and make measuring easier

@@therestorationstation5475 thanks mate the size is exactly what a need for my motorbike been thinking for days came across your video and channel . Made it simple .nice one

I didnt buy the lumber someone else did I just helped put it together with a family member

Total cost for materials including the base was roughly £750. I do have some trade discounts but cost of everything, especially timber, is currently high

all depends on what you want to build the cost very's in price