Learned more about oil changes in 18 minutes watching your video than I have in 40 years of riding :) Thanks!

i'm a mechanic (a car mechanic but there are no differences when it comes to oil change) and i would say you did a pretty good job in showing how to properly do an oil change. i would just like to specify some things: 1- when installing a new filter, it is good practice to use some oil to lube the O-ring (in this case, it was pre-lubed), to do so just tip your finger in oil and wet the rubber seal (better with gloves) 2- do not ever use power tools when tightening either the oil filter, the drain plug or the fill plug, as you correctly shown, you should alway tighten by hand and stop turning as soon as you feel a bit of resistance 3- one good thing to do is to check the oil filter and the air box, i often find bits of leaves and other dirt in air boxes (behind the air filter), i'm still puzzled as to why that happens even on relatively new air filters (i suspect poor installation is the cause) if you find such debris, use a hoover to suck all the debris out, pay attention also to the mainifold leading to the engine and hoover it as far as you can, DO NOT, under any circumstance use pressurized air to try to remove this debris, it could seriously damage your engine as you are pushing the debris INTO the engine. other than that, just give your engine a bit of time before you start hammering it (it doesn't really take much time on modern engines, you mainly just wanna reach oil pressure before starting to move, 10 seconds is a safe esitmate) and do not rev the engine much before it heats up a bit (doesn't take long, 1/2 minutes of decent speed driving). if you follow these instructions, and you do proper maintenance, your engine will be decently bulletproof (design defects not withstanding).

As an ex mechanic with ocd this makes me happy to see somebody teach the KZfaq world with actual experience and knowledge. All of my moto mates turn up at the track dirty bikes dirty filters dropping cold oil drives me crazy and they wonder why their bikes don't last 🤷🏼‍♂️

Nobody changes my oil but me, for 45yrs, but i I ALWAYS learn things from you! Thanks, good stuff 🤙

Don’t be afraid to allow the bike to cool a little bit after riding the hell out of it. I’ve had bad experiences with hot engines, aluminum threads, and steel bolts. Things don’t always come properly torqued from the factory, or your dealership, or you’re friends garage, and if it’s over torqued and good and hot, you’re chances of destroying threads goes up pretty quickly. Especially on smaller bolts like the ones you’d find on KTM’s LC8c oil filter cover.

Would love to see how you change and measure fork oil. It's perhaps one of the most ignored maintenance tasks and yet a crucial one! Cheers

Agree with everyt single word you said on this video, as always. And don´t forget 🙂 Never turn the engine off when the fan kicks on to cool the engine down, let it turn off first.

Torque wrench with a new crush washer, that will guarantee you'll never strip a drain plug. And the torque spec assumes a new crush washer.

That rear wheel hopping at around 1:00 had my heart pumping!

Never stop listening & learning. And never stop riding a motorbike ☺ Thanks and big regards from Germany to you

i learned something new today ✌️ Thank You!

Found this gem of a channel. I don't know much so I'm sure grateful i found this.

I watch quite a lot of moto related channels and yet you're the only one that have really orignal content and touch on some really important topics (ok FortNine is golden too). Good on you mate and keep up!

We are so blessed in the USA to have the other countries making motorcycle videos. The American motorcycle channels on KZfaq don't know how anything actually works, they just bring their engine to a specialty shop in Southern California, and they have the engine built for $39,000 with a secret cash deal behind the camera. Then they install the new shiny engine, and have a $100,000 project bike, and make it seem like it's just a normal thing that people can afford. Nobody ever explains oil. Americans don't know how oil even works. So thank you so much for educating us.

2 things I also do is prefill the oil filter up to the threads once, It'll absorb into the filter media. Once the engine has drained I take .5qt of fresh oil and pour it in the fill port with the drain plug still off, you'd be surprised that it still comes out dirty for a few sec and then clean. I always buy extra oil, to me it's cheap compared to an engine.

ARiemann1's videos are the real deal ... no reading from a script, just a straight shooter.

This is the reason I service my own cars and bikes - got burned too many times by workshops that just didn’t have the care and respect for my stuff. A word of warning for hot engines and alloy threads - take care and go easy as it is VERY easy to strip.

I just like the way that he runs his videos and narrates them, I can listen to this guy talk motorcycles all day long.

The heat cycles will also darken your oil. I don’t disagree about the sediment but it’s not the only factor. Great vid!

Loving these maintenance vids. You’ve got so much knowledge but your expertise is in how you explain it. Thank you

My new favourite channel…simple and practical advice from an experienced rider looking to help everyone out. Absolutely superb. The passion for biking makes the content infectious. 👏👏👏

Some years ago, the younger me was in the learning stage of motorcycle maintenance. And a lesson was coming. The theory of hot oil was solid, I heated the motor and proceeded to remove the oil plug. Not long into the process, my wrench slipped a little and the palm of my hand hit the exhaust pipe. Just a small touch, for less than a second. The glove and some of my hand melted, like wax, it could be worse, but the small bone stopped the scorching metal. A couple of months of healing, and now I have a visual reminder to not overdo it. Yes, I won't change the oil on a cold engine, but not on a smoldering hot one either. Heat it up, let it cool to safe temperature, save yourself the horrible pain and the possible damage to the oil pan/drain plug threads. Also, never tighten the new oil filter with anything but your hand, it even says so on the filter. A man using the wrench to tighten the oil filter should not give advice, this is mechanical illiteracy. So, consider what matters more, some imaginary health benefit to your motor or the serious burns, terrible pain and long healing time.

Thank ya good sir! As a new adventure bike owner I have needed every single one of these videos you’ve recently released. Also changing oil on my 450RL after work tonight. Thanks Adam! 🏍️💨

I use a magnetic sump plug which collects a lot of the gunk between oil changes. At each change I wipe off the gunk and appreciate magnetism.

An ARiemann1 video a day keeps the ticking motors away :)

As someone who hasn't even touched handbars before, I look at you as a bigger brother that's teaching me stuff. I'm looking to get my license these days and grab an old bike to learn both to ride and the mechanical stuff on it and I'm really pumped. Love the content, I came across your channel when you got that old Africa Twin in Norway and it's just amazing. Keep it up!

I like how you explain why, without knowing why, steps will eventually be skipped.

I would like to add something I like to do (and it's only a personal preference) when changing oil filters: I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil, letting the internals in the filter absorb all the oil it can before mounting it on the engine. Doing this will allow the oil pump to fill up the filter casing a lot faster as it is already saturated, and the new oil will reach the engine faster. This is by the way one of the best videos I've ever seen on how to do a proper oil change! You're being informative and educational and at the same time making the topic interesting, watching you hammer that bike on the track also helps keeping our attention 😉

Genuinely the best video I've seen on the subject. Everything is explained and has a reason behind it, not just "do this because we said so".

Loving your technical insights and maintenance videos. They are pure value because they help me 'understand' why I should do something in a particular way. Cheers from Holland.

Some great tips Adam thanks. I think regular oil changes are one of the simplest and most important things we can do for our bikes. Learn how to do it yourself, save time and money and become familiar with your own machine👍

Thank you Adam for your shorter super helpful videos as of late. For someone without an engine-guru around growing up this are so valuable!

Absolutely gold stuff. Thank you, Sir! As a happy owner of a 2 years old motorcycle, I'm gonna do my own maintenance, starting with oil change,thanks to your valuable insides.

I love you mate....always clear, concise information with an Ozzie twist! 👍👍

I appreciate the detailed explanation of each step in the maintenance process.

Mate, absolutely fantastic video! As an engineer sometimes is hard to explain to people, you have done it beautifully! Also worth to mention, for people living in cold area it is good practice to change oil before winter, as old oil with all these particles has also water particles in it and when sits over winter which tends to crystalize, once this happens there could be small microscopic reacting creating pitting or crevice corrosion. If you change your oil as you have shown before winter, you are ready to go in summer!

No wasted words here. Every minute was informative. Much appreciated!

Your description of the[ Gruel left in the motor]is without Parallel. clutch plate particules ,followed up with gear box steel shavings grinding their way thru the motor, not to mention the oil filter false sense of defence against such an attack. LOVED it Adam. I learn something new every time. your fan PARC ADV

11:38 good idea to pre fill the filter with oil to soak into the filter media so oil pressure rises quicker.

life circumstances have forced me to sell my T7. Love your videos! So good explanations, simple but good edition! Good job! Looking forward for the next one.

Did a cold oil change about 3 weeks ago, watched you vid, took it for a blast around the farm with the kids, then dropped the hot oil out, my clean oil that had just gone in was black, thanks heaps.

Your explanation makes perfect sense to anyone but how many people actually do it the right way? Thanks for the video.

I read many of the comments, but what I didn't see mentioned is this: Loosen, or remove the oil fill cap when draining the old oil. This allows air to enter the crankcase and the old oil to drain smoother, without the "chugging" action at the end. Helps to splash less this way, when it's nearly all drained. Like trying to pour milk out of a bottle without letting air in, it will glug-glug-glug rather than pour. As others have mentioned, DO add oil to the new oil filter, too. Give your motor a head start in being lubricated. Lastly, I've never felt the need to use a wrench to install a new oil filter. Drives me crazy trying to muscle off a used oil filter, or drive a screwdriver through it to lever it off due to it being overtightened. Hand tight then snug with 2 hands; the entire thread will hold it on fine because heat expands it all. None of my oil filters have ever leaked, just because I didn't tighten it down with a wrench.

I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.

One of the best videos out there on oil change. I would add run the motor for a few secs then turn off and check level again after a minute or so to finally dial in your level. I tip my bike over each way when draining the oil to get as much as possible down to the sump. Maybe over kill. Thanks for a great video mate. Regards from the UK.

Thank you for the explanations. Like your previous ones they have been on point. I have recommended your videos to my son who is just starting out. Keep them coming.

one of my fav channels on youtube! never miss a fortnine or ariemann1 video

Always great advice that will improve my knowledge on my riding and keeping my bikes running sweet.

i always changed my oil when my bike was very cool...or i gave it rest say al the night and then the next morning i changed the oil...and it was my practice for the last 20+ years or more...now after watching this i will never let the bike cool down..such a clever tip..

I feel like the majority of people hardly ride their motorcycles and usually sell them after a year or two, but this is all solid advice and guidance. Thanks

You have so much good tips! I've been riding for +15years and I never knew those little tricks Thanks for also explaining WHY you should have warm oil and so fort :) Keep it going man. I love your channel

Good Stuff ! Straight to-it with no BS ! I was lucky that 3 of my Dads mates were A-Grade-Mechanics who built some amazing race-engines etc . They taught-me what you just showed and at 14 , I soon become the 'Free' mechanic for all my mates ! Any problems and I had 3 experts I could give a call , we did everything to our bikes and (later) cars , including engine-rebuilds . There seemed to be a lot more commonsense back in those days (I'm just cracking 70 and still ride, TR1 xv is my favorite, my Old-Man-bike is a W650) Dave NZ

Great video Arie, good tips, bring back memories about my old KTM 500 2 stroke pieces of metal coming oud with every oil change, it had a magnetic drainplug, you can get that for your T7 too from Kedo, it collects al the metal particles so no metal going through the oil channels, good stuff mate & keep them video's coming, enjoy the tinkering with the bikes, big thumbs up from Thailand👍👍

Every so often you come across a channel with brilliant info where you learn a load no matter how much youve learnt in the past :) thanks for taking the time to share gradually working my way through the videos superb work an info. I got my 300 rally back from a dealer the other week after its first service usually do all my own work an noticed how filthy the oil was after its first service in the window, my dads bro who raced Nortons always hammered it into my mind to change them hot, ill try the fan trick on the rally this week.

I've always changed my oil after 20+ minutes commutes, with one exception where the bike was sitting cold, started the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, then started to change the oil and filter afterwards, I was surprised that the oil got immedietly black, now this explains everything.

Love your recent maintenance videos mate!

Thanks Adam once again, your information is always top notch Love how you express the hole concept of everything in the process of doing the job 🙌 👌

Touratech bash plate is what I have, so worth it. Very good knowledge you have, I change the oil after a hot steady day in the UK and even if the manual says 6k miles to change,I still change mine at 1k miles 👍. Sump plug bolt, I drilled small hole and lockwired it, Not Rm80 experience but yz125.

Love the detail, thanks for the time you have taken to explain this.

I just learnt a very critical thing about changing engine oil hot and not cold!! Awesome!

Always spot on! It's a joy listening to you! Thanks buddy

Good explanation of why the oil should be hot. You convinced me. THANKS ! Greetings from France

Thanks for putting that together, always something to learn from your vids

These have been very enjoyable videos to watch! Thank you!

Adam, Thank you for the brilliant videos, I've learned so many valuable tips over the past year. It's s great having people like you taking time from their lives and providing good solid information. It's truly appreciated. Here's a tiny tip that was provided to me by a WW2 vet to who I always listened very attentively when I was a mechanics apprentice for a small family garage. He always prefilled the oil filters. He explained when you removed the filter it had oil in it so it's best to install the filter with oil in it so it's ready to lubricate the engine once it's started. ( Grant F also stated in the comments ) Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.

Great content Adam , really enjoying it , thank you

Brilliant video. Here, in India, they always insist on changing the oil when cold!! This is such an eye opener! Couldn't have come at a better time as planning for a 1000 kms ride with considerable off-road conditions 🙏

I suppose i should use this rare opportunity when im early to tell you that as a newbie rider i found your video,s enjoyable and to a certain degree useful (i have yet to really learn or try most stuff from all the guides you made,let alone have a suitable vehicle for some of the things) Ill comeback to it when need be.

loving the maintenance side of things my dude keep it coming :)

Just another great video Adam! Thanks!

Hi Adam. I work in the oil sector, mainly in imports and distribution and what you said about the xW-xx oil being the visco at low and high temps is correct. However, some manufacturers have specific specifications for the same viscosity grades. For example, it’s possible to have 2 “10w-40s” which conform to different specifications. This is to do with the materials inside the engine such as the specific material the rings are made out of, if the block is forged or cast etc. Therefore, it is always advisable that if you are using higher or lower viscosity grades, to match the specifications. For example the JASO MA2 spec can be found on multiple different grades and is for a certain type of piston ring material to prevent burn. Great video as always!

Great advice, I always go for a good blast before an oil and filter change. Also change oil at half the specified interval, it's cheap insurance.

Thanks for explaining things so well mate, enjoy the bike! I can't wait to get a T7 sometime in the near future..

Great tutorial Adam. Many thanks 🙏

Your oil filter does NOT need to be that tight man... finger tight + half a turn. Get a bloody torque wrench... and you can anneal your crush washer when you re-use one. Just hit it with enough heat to get it soft again. Can prob use them 5 times or more if you anneal it every time. If you don't anneal it, it's brittle and could crack and/or not seal properly. I appreciate you taking the time to show people the DIY and how-to, but don't tell them bad habits or poor mechanic's.

Such matter of fact explaining, love it. Thanks for another great video.

That was preaching a life lesson to anyone! Its the blood of an engine next is air! Well said Sir

Absolutely fantastic video mate. Thank you 👍

I enjoyed from Kenya the article especially having to bring the engine to operating temperatures.

Thank you teacher, for this great lesson! Keep going with the good work ✊

Fantastic info, mate. Definitely food for thought !!

KTM has some crazy custom filters that look like nothing else. I'm sure the same principle applies. Thanks for the tip!

For me, changing the oil is a pain the backside (literally), but your knowledge and methodical approach shows how simple and important it is ... and so it becomes fun.

AWESOME! Very important information, I learned something new! 1.) Paper oil filters are the only good ones. Don't use fiberglass or synthetics. Paper filters filter the most fine particles and are nearly impossible to put into bypass, because there are so many folds and spaces for particulates, compared to other newer synthetic elements. (see actual tests). 2.) Motul 7100 and 300V oil only in streetbikes. Only Motul oil. 300V oil does show literally half as much wear in a straight friction test hot and cold, that I observed, using the standard "wear scar" test. The wear scar was less than half as deep for both the hot and cold tests on 300V oil compared to 7100. Both are good oils. 7100 is slightly thicker and may be quieter. 300V is a thinner oil, for maximum horsepower. 3.) OEM oil filters are all plain paper. Because paper is the best. 4.) HiFlo brand oil filters are paper, and are similar, but even stronger constructed to OEM's.

Greetings from Iceland, thank you for a great video. To remove nuts or bolts.....Lefty loosely....righty tightly...that's how I learnt it 40 some years ago when I got my Aeronautical Engineers degree.

I watched this video with satisfaction and joy for being vindicated in my way of changing oil. I got my brand new 1978 Chevy Big Block V8 C30 Silverado which died. The first oil change i had done at 1000 miles and I had every subsequent oil change done at 3000 miles at a drive-thru business place called PennZoil Quick Lube. I thought that changing oil at that interval I'd have a pristine engine inside. At 15,436 miles, 5 "professional oil changes" later and just before the 6th one, my engine just started going slower on the toll road and literally ground to a stop. It was out of warranty!!! Towed back to the dealer I bought it from, they took it in and called me 2 days later asking me to come in. They showed me the motor with the upper valves exposed and a thick black residue, the consistency of a cold stick of butter had encased the entire upper part of the engine and valves , they told me it was a buildup from the waxy Pennsylvania oil used in my higher heat big block V8. PennZoil's "Lifetime Engine Guaranty" was non existent when I tried to get their help. Since then I have changed my own oil. I noticed that the stuff in the engine when I had it towed home was actually like a parrafin wax, cold it was almost solid but I took a hair dryer to it and it became like black grease, so in my mind I reasoned that if I changed my oil when it was hot anything like that would come out softened by the heat. I still change my oil and check it after 1000 miles and its a light brown color similar to a can of coke, not black, when I change it, the oil comes out dark, hot and drains quickly. I got back into riding bikes 40 years after I was married and got a used Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic with 14,096 miles, the first thing I done was drive it for 40 miles, change the oil with it hot and to my horror the oil came dribbling out like black molasses. I rode it for another 200 miles and changed it hot again and this time it poured out thin and black. I checked it 500 miles later, on the dipstick the oil was brown and at 1000 miles the oil was a dark brown but not black! That Dec. I changed the oil at just over 1400 miles to store it for the winter and it came out the same dark brown color. I plan on doing my 600 mile service on my new '23 KLR 650 and the chain tensioner adjustment (doo-hickey in red-neck speak) myself and change the oil every 1800-2000 miles myself as its cheaper to keep her lubed! IMO, always change your oil HOT! I get a lot of shit about it but it works for me.

Great episode. Lots of knowledge put in a short period of time, and entertaining. Thanks, Günter, Nürnberg/Germany

Brill video and great help for when I get the bike! Thanks very much Adam!

You are the Man... great video... learn some, refresher for the rest. Thanks Brother!

Adam, very nice video mate! This is a huge tip. Ty!

Love it, especially the simple explanations of the things the mechanically challenged should know!

Great info, appreciate the details 👍🏼

brilliant - thanks - keep going with his T7 input - highly regarded.

Thank you. And a thumbs up for being likable with the extra knowledge 👍

Wow, this video is an absolute gem! 🌟 The content is not only informative but also presented in such an engaging and entertaining way. The visuals are top-notch, keeping me hooked from start to finish. Keep up the fantastic work! 👏👏"

Absolutely excellent and beautiful video, thank you Adam…

People, if you cannot do an oil change this is the time to learn! If your bike is out of warranty you don't want to go do a stealership JUST for a simple task like that. If you ride on track YOU MUST be able to do this and some other basics. This is a great video that goes over the "tricks" and the practical approach to this task.

I've been riding for only lil about 3 years or so and I was always told to change oil on cold without giving any sort of explanation lol. I guess is never too late to learn, thanks for the free lessons man! Love your vids keep 'm comin!

Best video i have seen in a veryy long time. Thank you.

Well done, very informative. Really enjoy your vids.