Your video saved the day. Needed to fix my cars rotor and brake pads on the day of my wedding anniversary. I thought the day was ruined. I never did brake and rotor repair a day in my life. I found your video and did the repairs step by step from your video and I had time to spare to take the wife out for our anniversary. Thank you so much. God bless

This helped me put new brakes and rotors on my wife's 2018 Traverse. The only differnce is it has an electronic e-brake, so there's no drum component. Instead, you can remove the electronic e-brake with a 5mm alan wrench, 2 bolts. From there, the same T30 torx will allow you to back out the screw or whatever is in there that also compresses the caliper from the electric e-brake motor.

This guy right here is a real man. Needs a hammer to tap the rotor but goes with the axe/hammer combo. Something I would do. Thanks for the demo brother. I have to do the brakes on this Traverse soon. Getting some funky sounds from up front.

Thanks for the video! I’ve done this on other cars, but the refresher was nice, along with all the socket sizes.

Hey SSL family dad, i’ve been watching you for a while and im in the middle of doing the rear brakes on my traverse! Had to search youtube to fine out why the rotor wasn’t coning off, haha! Glad i found your video. Decided to spray is with oil and get a bigger hammer! It worked!!!!

Great video. Clear, concise and to the point. I changed out my brake pads in record time and everything was just as explained in the video. The only problem is I now feel like a chump for having recently spent $280 on a brake job for my wife's car that I could have done myself for $60.

Thanks for your video. It was helpful. It has been a few years since I did a brake job on my own car and this made it easy for me to refresh and order up the parts. Most difficulty I had was getting the wheel off the hub, which was a total surprise for me.

Thank you for this video my daughter has a travers that she brought to me that the rear breaks and rotors were shot and this told me everything I needed down to the sockets thank you sir 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

Great video! Wanted to add some important notes.....Really important to note that on some vehicles if you have issues using the C-clamp to get the piston down pop the hood and remove the cap on the master cylinder. What happens is as you pressing the piston in with the c-clamp it's going against the pressure inside the brake fluid. If you do this brake job with the cap off do it in your driveway not grass because brake fluid will destroy your lawn. THIS IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT.....after the brake job is complete place the master cylinder cap back on and pump your brakes a few times before starting your vehicle to build back up the pressure in your brake line. If you don't do this you start your car you mash on your brakes and it goes to the floor because there's no pressure build up. If you pump them before the car starts you will know immediately that there's enough pressure in the system to proceed to putting the car in drive.

One thing he skipped is when he puts the new rotor back on, you need to check your parking brake adjustment, that's what the rubber plug is for, rotate the rotor so the access hole is at about 12 oclock, reach in with a flat screwdriver and tighten the star nut until the shoes just start to touch the inside of the rotor, so you need to push down on the screw driver so the star nut rotates up to tighten...

Fantastic DIY vid! Got quotes from 3 shops to do rears on a 2014 Traverse and all were $500+. Paid $100 in parts on Amazon and spent 2.5 hrs (some of that was drinking with the neighbor) to do the replacement myself. Thanks!

Just bought some of my parts from Amazon using the links you provided. Great video!

Thank you for such a thorough and helpful video. I was able to complete the task with minimal difficulty, and saved hundreds. THANKS!

Loved the video. I also have a 2011 Chevy traverse. I’m the type of person that watches how it’s done and then gone to town. Just like to get things done right or just to double check if not missing any steps before I screw up🤦🏻‍♂️. But best of all love the Bible verse. I haven’t got to read the book of Ephesians yet but now can’t wait. Thanks so much for your time making this video,very helpful. God Bless🇺🇸👍🏻✝️☝🏻

Just like to say. As pads wear you add brake fluid. Suggest you take off top of brake master cylinder so as you are pressing pistons in you do not have pressure building up. Remove cap and as you press pistons in watch to make sure you do not have brake fluid over flow, it is a great paint remover. What I do is use a turkey baster, sorry honey and suck fluid out before it over flows. Then squirt it into dispaolable container with lid. Never touch brake pedal with top of resivor off! When done with pads refill resivoir. Cap it then hit brake pedal until pedal stiff as usual. Remove jack stands with vehicle on all four tires and level check brake fluid and add if need be then put top of master cylinder back on secure. Try the brakes in drive first then hit the street for test drive, come back check level of brake fluid. Smile at your skills and feel confident. Great video and happy motoring.

instead of the piece of wood you can use the old junk brake pad. I like to use a 5 gallon bucket to hold the caliper too. it's the perfect height. great video

THANK YOU SO MUCH :) I'm short on cash and this saved me a lot of money. thanks for being so detailed on the parts needed too.. Amazon was the best price. everyone else was a rip-off on shipping.. Needed an air gun to get the brake bolt loose due to dealership using that threadlock I couldn't get it to budge using a torque.

Great video, and made quick work of a brake job (something I always wanted to try to do). To reply to another comment, my brake shoe pack had four identical part number pads, and on a very close inspection had no differences at all. They were not unique for the inside or outside, but could be either.

Super Easy, I changed them on my 2007 Saturn Outlook, besides the rotor being frozen to the hub it went very smoothly. BTW use PB Blaster penetrating oil to burn through the rust if you're rotors are frozen.

thank you for educating me. I found this video very helpful thank so much

Excellent video!

great job on this video!

Hi: good video. There is an adjustment that can be done for the emergency brake with the rubber seal. You will need a flat head screwdriver to adjust a wheel to make sure the emergency brake pad is close enough to the rotor. The rotor should spin and the brake shoes from the emergency system should just barley come in contact with the roter and not cause a slow down of the rotation. Once the adjustment is made with the flat head screw driver, you put the rubber cap back on the rotor and all is done.

Great video! Thank you👍🏽

After assembly spray the pads and rotor with brake cleaner to remove any factory oil or grease before putting the tire back on.

Great vídeo,replacing the rear brakes on a 2013 traverse is it almost the same as the 2009?

Excellent video: thanks

great video. thanks

Very easy job, thank you

This video was very helpful..

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO

I have an Acadia, and I have to grind down the ends of the pads so they will fit in the bracket. Never had this before except the rear brakes on this SUV. Anybody else have this problem?

Great video, thank you. Also want to thank Doug Parker for posting the Torque Specs; "Torque is very important for the large bolts at 100 ft.lbs. and 35 ft.lbs for the caliper bolts"

Hey man thanks a lot. Im going to be doing my breaks next week and i also have a 2009 Traverse. im tired of getting ripped off at break check. last time i tried to do a break job was like 10 years ago and it had all these springs and stuff, it was so hard, this looks way more easy

Video is well done!! However, the torque on the caliper is 44 foot pounds and the jugs are 140 foot pounds. According to manufacturers specs.

Nice video.

Great video. I was like your videos. I recommend you tell them to push the Pistons back out. And not just go for a test drive right away without pushing the piston back out. I found out the hard way a long time ago lol good job tho.

Hey boss you now how to change the spark plugs and the wires on the 2009 Chevy traverse try to change them but hard to do or find out how to

Hi, I know this video is kind of old, but exactly where did you jack up the car at and where did you put the jack stands?

Lithium grease should not be used on brake parts. Be sure to clean the shipping oil off the new rotor surface.

Does anyone know if these same parts he used are compatible with a 2014 Traverse?

Is it the same for all traverse like 2014

Do you bleed the brake fluid?

So how do you get the T30 screw out if it's seized. All the videos I've watched seem to have new ones on the old vehicles.

Can the original brake clips be used again? The brake pads I bought didn't come with new clips.

great job, was gonna mention about the master cylinder cap, but 89DrFunk beat me to it, but also make sure to stay safe and place a jack stand or some kind of blocking under the vehicle, Also the guide pin bolts that slide into the rubber boots, should be torqued to (30 ft/lbs). along with the shoe bracket 148 ft/lbs, Look up the torque spec's to be sure, I'm not a big Safety Sally, but brakes and front end work I like to get it right, , have a great day

did u check the pads on the sliders so that they move not only in but return out so that the pad doesn't wear out? many times you have to grind the pad holder where it meets the slider so that it will move freely.

You probably discovered after the video when you tried to spin the wheel that you had an inside pad for the other side on the outside. That protruding piece of metal is a wear bar that will squeak when the pads get worn down. Also, you should have cleaned the grease off the slide bolts before adding more grease so that they will slide with ease. Too much grease on the back of the pads will get hot and spread easily to the pad surfaces, not good. Torque is very important for the large bolts at 100 ft.lbs. and 35 ft.lbs for the caliper bolts. You should always resurface the rotors or replace when replacing pads so the pads will break in properly and not glaze over from a smooth surface of the rotor and reduce your stopping power. Would recommend a short break in period for the pads, by not braking hard or fast stops, or pull a load that will require more braking so as not to overheat and could cause the rotor to warp if it is not already warped, which a resurface would remove.

Had you ever replace the valve seals Please help me. i am a DIY dealer charger a lot of money..

DON'T FORGET AFTER UR ALL DONE WITH BRAKE JOB? START UR ENGINE AND PUMP THE BRAKES!! SO THE CALIPER CAN GET RE PRESSURIZED AND BRAKE PADS ARE PUSHED INTO PLACE..DON'T WANNA JUST START ENGINE AND PUT INTO GEAR AND TAKE OFF, ONLY TO START PUMPING BRAKES AT STOP SIGN AND BRAKE PEDAL GOES STRAIGHT TO FLOOR!! LOL

you still have this chevy don't see anymore new videos on it.

Great video. But heed him - use a torque wrench for every single item you are tightening down. The range for this brake job goes from about 9ft.lbs to about 157 ft.lbs. Your hands cannot guess those numbers as you are breaking your back tightening those bolts. And it makes a world of difference.

You shouldn't be using your racket as breaker bar. Instead of the piece of wood use old pads ..torque bracket bolts down proper no use thread locker

he skipped a couple of things New rotors need to be sprayed with brake cleaner and the rear brake rotors need to be adjusted and if he were to buy them on Auto zone they have a lifetime warranty meaning if they were to go bad he would get them for free

for some reason, I like changing drum brakes...😠🤖

I'm a girl and don't u still have to bleed the brakes too