my top tip is to watch chris fix before undertaking a diy job.

I have been changing brakes for years.... "Tip 1, turn the steering wheel" Whelp, I guess I can learn a few new things.

It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.

Chris, You are what is good about the internet and You Tube. I have been working on my own cars for 50 years and your videos and tips are done so well and if anyone out there needs helped and have tried to find an honest mechanic who charges fair prices and (they are getting harder to find) then don’t be afraid to try it yourself. Chris makes it easy to follow do what he says step by step and don’t be lazy and skip any steps because they really can help parts last.

Tip 11: press the brakes a few times before driving off your driveway.

Chris, I just finished doing my brakes and here's one you forgot to mention. "Wear those Latex gloves unless you want to be spending an equal amount of time washing your hand afterwards." You can put like five layers of them on so you just peel the outside glove off each time they get used up. No fumbling trying to put new ones on with sweaty hands. Thanks again!

Great tips, quick update to accommodate newer vehicles....for those who may not know, don't try to compress the rear brake caliper pistons if the vehicle has EPB (Electronic Parking Brake). There are some work arounds but you should use a diagnostic to put the EPB in service mode or risk costly damage

Tip: be sure you have the tools you need so you don't have to stop in the middle.

I really like your no-nonsense car fix videos. It's especially helpful when you shove the camera in those hard to see places to show everyone. Keep it up!

Been changing brakes for myself, friends, and family for around 20 years and I only do about half of these tips. I'm definitely going to incorporate some more of them into my next project! As you said, these things are often overlooked. If you don't do them, you're not necessarily doing the job "wrong", but why skip such easy steps which will help avoid future problems when you already have the system apart? Awesome video!

Yes! Greasing the guide pins is one step that most of the brake job videos on KZfaq tend to leave out…. One thing you did leave out that most others do also is that before you press the piston back into the caliper, you should remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and wrap a towel around the reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may seep out as you are pressing the piston back into the caliper…

Most important tip: Pump your brakes before you go anywhere ( after brake job is done )

I have NEVER cleaned behind the cylinder boot. Great tip. Thanks.

Thanks Chris! I've been teaching Auto Technology for 20+ years and this is the best brake video I've seen. These are the things that separate a professional brake job from a shade tree. I emphasize every one of your tips and now my students know I'm not the only one stressing these things. Good production as well. I Subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work! Bill Kitt Automotive Technology Professor ASE Master Tech, L1,

Another tip I’ve learned through working in the field is to always unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It’ll make pushing the piston back a whole lot easier

I really liked tip #8. What I usually do when compressing the piston, is just crack the cap on the reservoir so the fluid can go back up without building pressure in there. And for those of you that don't have a brake caliper compressor, just use a C-clamp on the caliper while it is still bolted on.

One of the best automotive tip / repair channels on youtube....clear, concise and with attention to detail. Well done Chris.

Great video, Chris. Not a wasted moment or misspoken word. Keep up the good work.

Great brake tips! One thing I do every time I inspect or change the brakes is condition the rubber parts. I use silicone spray on hoses, guide pin boots etc to keep them from cracking and failing.

Chris, thank you for some excellent tips. You made my day. Starting with tip #1, that one really rocks. I've watched brakes being replaced as well as doing them myself throughout the years. I've never seen anyone turn the wheel for easier access. It's been years since I've done brakes but, today I'll feel like I can tackle them with confidence and ease using all of your tips. That also goes for the tips in the comments your subscribers shared. Thank you all for making my day an easier one. You and your subscribers rock,

Chris you make me feel like I can fix anythingcar related!! Thank you so much for all your videos.😁

also remember to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to bring the pedal up before driving

Tip11: Never pump out the caliper piston too far whilst cleaning the rubber boot otherwise it'll cause brake fluid to leak or the piston to drop off completely causing you to spend hours trying to get the piston and rubber boot back into the caliper as well as re-bleeding the brake system to get the air lock out of the master clinder...and don't ask me how I know all that😳😳

Must have watched a dozen brake rotor videos, and yet I still learned something new here, thanks

As always Chris, this is an excellent video, (just like all the others you’ve made that I’ve watched). The video is an education in itself. One tip that may be useful; it’s always difficult to keep the pad material clean when handling brake grease, so I cover the friction surfaces with masking tape until I’m ready to fit the pads to the caliper. This helps to keep the pads grease and dirt free.

Based on my personal experience and failures: Always use a torque wrench to go over all the bolts before re-installing the tire. My worse experience was forgetting to tighten one of the bolts on the caliper mounts. Good thing the one bolt that I DID tighten held off for a good half a mile to where I could stop to investigate what happened. I will never make the same mistake again. It could have resulted in a bad accident but thank God it didn't. Also as described by this video, using the proper lubrication for the guide pins is a must. I've had bad experiences where a 'professional' mechanic failed to use the proper full synthetic silicon lubricant. It caused the rubber boot to swell up and seize up the guide pin. I had a hell of a time trying to get it out. Great video, Chris!

I've always been a little intimated of doing my own brakes. But after watching this vid, I'm gonna give it a go!

When you’ve watch this video a few days after you just changed brakes and rotors. 😂 great share.

My top tips. Don't handle the pads with dirty hands. Don't touch the friction material face at all if you can help it. Put grease on anything that rubs together, silicone if its protected with a rubber boot, lug nut torque is important and too much will warp your new rotors, and do not forget to break you pads in.

I used to hang my calipers from a bungee cord, now I turn a 5-gal. bucket upside down and rest them on the bucket. Easier and quicker.

Chris, I agree with every aspect of this video with two exceptions. Factory trained VW/Porsche/ Audi tech, aerospace/racing fabricator and crew chief of several regional SCCA class winners. 1) Something I see time and time again on KZfaq brake repl. videos it seems virtually everyone insists of replacing the rotors at every brake pad change?? WHY??? If not excessively worn beyond the factory thickness specs, (often found stamped on OEM rotors) nor is warpage/runout beyond spec, (checked with a dial indicator,) why is everyone suggesting rotor replacement during routine pad replacement??? What ever happened to turning the rotors on a brake lathe?? If final cut is within thickness specs and no runout, reinstall. What are shops now to do with that expensive AMMCO brake lathe?? This has worked well for decades, why not now?? Most all of the aftermarket rotors are made overseas of inferior materials. Example...On a track record setting SCCA A Sedan class car using Corvette rotors/calipers, the hard abrasive pads used on track eat away at the rotors. Checking/finding now undersized one race weekend, purchased a set of supposed 'Corvette' rotors from local car parts store. Cleaned/scuffed with abrasive. After just one practice session after properly bedding in new pads, the rotors had extreme heat stress cracking throughout and 0.025+ runout both sides. Very, very dangerous!!! Removed, reinstalled the OEM rotors to finish the weekend. PS: Driver complained of brake pedal pulsation, clear indicator of warped rotors. 2) Something forgotten by so many including this video is procedure to properly bed in a new set of pads, especially important if also installing new rotors. If NOT done, pads will heat glaze, reducing the stopping ability and a major cause of brake squeal. Brakes will last longer, work better and reduce noise. Perhaps best as a stand alone video linked to this one??

#11 loosen the Master cylinder cap. This released pressure on the entire system, and serves as a back up if you use the caliper bleeder. Or if you don't want or can't loosen the bleeders, this reduced pressure allows the piston to go in easier and avoid straining or damaging the anti lock system.

Well done and very informative. Thank you for not putting any music in the background.

spent an hour beating the shit out the rotor from different angles when changing my rear brakes, without anything happening. took the handbreak off and 30 seconds later it came off easy..

I like trying to work on my car when I am able to do the job myself, these are fabulous tips. Thank you!

Great tips, I have been doing my brakes for 50 years and learned a few good tips here. Thanks 👍🏻.

Chris, as usual, brilliant. what about a video on how to add aftermarket DRL's or parking sensors???

Best Brake job video I've ever seen, PERIOD !!!

Good tips bro! However, please also consider adding more tips to deal with heavy rust build up in practically all stationary metal-to-metal contact points. For example, all around the brake pads, underneath the thin metal shims/clips, between the caliper and its mounting bracket, etc. Newbies find it hard to remove various components simply because they just don't know what's normal and what's not in terms of movement between various parts. Rust causes so much binding in relatively short period that it often requires repeated but gentle hammering to remove the caliper assembly and its mounting bracket from the rotors. Newbies don't always know that it's OK to hammer them out gently. Also, the wire brush is not always sufficient to remove the rust. Hard scraping using a flat-head screwdriver or a dremmel rotory brush/grinder, sandpaper or even a file may be necessary depending on where people live. Rust might not be a big problem in dry/desert states, but it's a huge issue in states with even modest annual rain or snow fall.

I've done a fair few brake jobs but some of these tips are definatley overlooked yet helpful. Great video 👍

My only tip to add to this is to use an impact socket when using an impact wrench. I've seen a number of people break chrome sockets on an impact. That can be pretty dangerous. Not only can things go flying, the broken socket can be very sharp.

Also when you finish any brake job pump the pedal and make sure it gets firm. This is so you don't get any surprises when your driving away for the first time!

Great tips Mr. ChrisFix! You are clear and concise with your audio & video and right to the point for us "DIY's". So there I am with my arsenal of tools at hand with you streaming on my laptop again last weekend replacing my daughters drum brakes.......although I had to pause your video dozens of times I still knocked the job out (and still had time to watch some football)! You have saved me a TON of money while making me look like I actually know what I am doing! Many thanks from balmy Las Vegas, Nevada. Regards, D. Scott

Chris, well done. You mentioned some tips I over looked, and so simple and no brainers. Thanks Chris.

I always appreciate your videos Chris! One thing I encountered on my very first break job was threaded holes in the face of the rotor near the lug holes - insert a couple bolts and tighten them a half turn or so alternating between the two and it pops that rust weld in a flash without a hammer getting involved!

I love the fact that you can guess the tone of the "Hey guys, ChrisFix here" just by looking at the age of the video

There's something soothing about Chris' calmer voice in his earlier videos. The new videos are great, make no mistake. But there's a feeling of 'old-friend-just-helping-you-fix-your-car' type of vibe with Chris' old vid.

I haven't changed brake pads in years. This video should keep me up to date (even though it's 7 years old).

Truly a great video. Solid tips and efficient delivery. I think the bleed part is likely out of many's desire to do but still good to add that as a tip.

Great tips Chris! Thought I'd mention one more important reason to crack the nipple and let out brake fluid when pushing the piston back - when you push fluid up and back to the master cylinder you can damage seals and control valves $$ especially on older vehicles as the seals start deteriorating with age.

Have a long breaker bar and impact wrench handy especially in the rust belt states. Did my brakes today for the first time and everything went well except for some stubborn caliper bracket bolts. Your videos really help.

I got my Forester to the shop for the brake job (front pads and discs) and they didn't wash off manufacturer oil and now I'm squeaking every.single.time. Now I'm taking every easier jobs my self. Hate paying incompetent people for the job. ChrisFix for the win! :D

I always clean and grease the caliper or bracket that holds the pads where the edges of the pad slide toward the rotor when braking

we can't thank you enough for your videos so like always a BIG LIKE FOR THIS ONE

I need to change my rotors. I've done it several times. This is a great video. Thanks for the tips!

Am glad to come across this one a day prior to me tackling the brakes on my car. Did this on my motorcycle multiple times but, it is a first go on the car. Thanks for all your efforts. Greatly appreciated.

Hey Chris, your videos are awesome! I love how you get to the point, it's well structured and also I like how you say "consider subscribing" instead of "make sure to subscribe"

Thanks to you Chris I changed my rotors and pads for the first time, next it's the rear drum brakes complete as per your video .

All things I've heard to do and always forget. We'll save this video for next time. You explained it perfect.

after watching this video a dozen times in preparation for my first diy brake change next week, i FINALLY understood tip number eight. i don’t know why i was so afraid of it!! now i get it, consider it done!!

Thanks Chris. I've changed brakes before and have been told that I'm paranoid for constantly spraying down brake parts during installation. Good to know my instincts were right!

Great tips, I'd add get rubber covers for the bleed screw and change them every time you do your discs/rotors as the rubber can wear away. Covers protect the brake bleed screws from seizing and corroding.

All I learned from past brake jobs on my motorcycle n cars are summed up here. Thank you for these tips, indispensable!!!

You're an EXCELLENT TEACHER CHRIS! Clear, well filmed and professional. Kudos John 3:16

Super wonderful help when I was here with my talents so thank you for the help Best regards from Denmark / Funen

Awesome tips...took me 20 years to learn what you cover in a few minutes!

Just subscribed after several hours of binge watching lol Will certainly consider joining as well. Appreciate you're straight forward approach knowing your subscribers have the basic idea. I started wrenching 40 years ago, starting with bicycle's, lawn mowers, Mopeds. Cars trucks houses. Didn't have instruction other than who you knew and printed shop manuals, often covering many years with different options. Helps to see a slightly different approach that is well demonstrated. Owned many Rangers. 2.3 Lima, 2.3 duratec to over 300k. Rusted frames the death nell. My son and I are close and he was raised on Fox bodies, F series and Rangers. He's Navy, stationed in JAX with a nice 2010 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 5spd, badass 05 GT 4.6 and just picked up a 95 del sol Honda as a daily gas sipper. Still have my 89 LX 5.0 vert I bought in '94. Father son '90 hatch 2.3 turbo swap that runs part time. The daily is a 2010 2.3 auto RWD Ranger. Solid at 168K. Old City of Columbus (Ohio) fleet truck I will be installing front hub/rotor, wheel bearings, rear discs/pads with a rust storm in hopes of salvaging calipers/brackets. Too much information, but wanted say that I don't subscribe to very many you tube feeds. Keep on brother !!!

Excelente video Chris Fix, gracias por compartir, saludos.

thank a lot brother, I've learnt a lot from your chanel alone. keep up the great work

Thanks for all the awesome videos, Chris. You've helped me gain the confidence, and in turn, the experience, needed to do my own auto repairs.

This is the best video I have seen. I put the silicone grease on the piston and the piston boot too . I also put it on the slide area of the caliper and the caliper bracket . I have been doing this for 20 plus years now . I do like the tip on the brake fluid . Two thumbs up !!!

Holy smokes Chris 9 million subs!!!! congratulations first time seeing your channel you had less then 20k subs. Congratulations you definitely deserve your success.

Thanks for all the good advice

I had no idea about the dust behind the boot! Thanks Chris!

Great tips. I wouldn't have known to do any if those ten tips. Thanks for putting the time in to teach folks. 👍

Informative, like always. Thanks, Chris!

Nice. Great video. Seems so simple... First time I did this, years ago, I didn't turn the wheel..... Helps a lot!!!

Opening the bleeder valve while compressing the pistons is an awesome idea! Saves having to bleed them all the time (especially when you track a car a lot). BTW, use a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust off the hub. It's faster and far better than a manual brush. Just an FYI.

Awesome and very useful tips. Thank you for these. I've learned from these and I've also shared this video on Facebook for others to learn these, as well.

SUBSCRIBED!!! Thank you for those tips mate - seemingly obvious and yet overlooked constantly - legend.....cheers.

Tip: dont use a chrome socket on an impact gun

John's top tip #11: You have a brake pad wear indicator under your hood that is easily viewed. After installing new pads all around, bleed enough fluid so new fluid is in all calipers (a brake fluid change). Top up the brake reservoir. Then NEVER add brake fluid to the reservoir while these pads are on the car. The fluid level decrease will be an easy indicator of brake pad wear. Put tape on the cap so the oil change place doesn't mess with it. The reservoir will hold significantly more fluid than the pistons can displace even if the pads are 100% worn down to where steel from the pad is touching all four rotors. A brake system that doesn't have a leak will never run out of fluid, I promise. Your low brake fluid level light will indicate the pads are worn or a leak in the brake system. Either way your gonna fix it. Topping up your fluid will subsequently force you to take off the tires to inspect the pads. Fluid level is in direct proportion to pad wear.

Good clear video with understandable descriptions and explanations. You always do a super job.

Got some tips for everyone. These tips ensure there will be no noise on the test drive. I used to work at Brake Masters and learned from a good mechanic who never had a car come back. 1. Once you take off the wheel and have access to the brakes, remove the bracket (s) closest to the line right away without thinking. It frees up space for you without turning the wheel and it becomes routine once you see how easy it makes it. 2. Go ahead and remove the bracket without removing the caliper from the bracket. This is just two bolts. Wiggle the assembly to free it and carefully remove. Remove the brake pads one by one and just slide the caliper off of the bracket. It helps to use your hands symmetrically and hold the assembly like a burger. 3. Remove the rotor. Don't use a hammer unless you are going to use a new rotor and check that the rotors match before you whack it. Nothing sucks more than realizing you have the wrong part and have to go back to the parts store.Take a quick note in your pocket notebook of the orientation of the hardware on the bracket if there is any. Put on some gloves and glasses. Can't stress the importance of using safety glasses during this part. Dilute some degreaser into a spray bottle and spray to your heart's content around the dust shield, the hub, behind the hub (very important), the caliper all over and in the piston hole, and the brackets all over. Use a long wire brush, a skinny long wire brush and preferably a cup brush that goes on the end of a Chuck drill and clean all of the brake dust off the pieces. Keep the drill in the wheel well so you don't dirty the car when it flings. During this part you will be using your wire brushes when all the parts are wet with degreaser. This is so much better than what I used to do because you will not be suffering from asbestos since it is too wet to float in the air. Brush every nook and cranny including where the hardware fits in. The only parts you shouldn't scrub are inside the piston, any rubber parts and the slide pins. After scrubbing spray degreaser until the stream runs mostly clean as it drips off the dirty parts. Be careful of the rubber boots on the slide pins or on the caliper and spray brake clean from the top to the bottom and you will see it run clean within a couple sprays from top to bottom. Use brake clean strategically, spray generally from top to bottom however the parts are oriented. Go with gravity and keep that money in your pocket. Spray until degreaser and brake dust are gone. If you run out of brake cleaner you can use water in a pinch but I do not recommend it as common practice. 4. Compress caliper. NOTE!! Do not EVER press a caliper piston back in while other calipers are removed. Doing so will pop another piston out and then you're in trouble. Just do the brakes one wheel at a time. I know this part sounds unnecessary but it prevents noise initially: take a normal flat metal file and file the new brake pads at the corners at a 45° angle where the sides meet the braking surface. This takes care of the sharp 90° angle shape that the brakes arrive in. This prevents the paint on the sides of the pads from building up right away. 5. Make sure every part is completely dry the brake clean should've helped with that very quickly. Use caliper grease and apply to slide pins, and the "ears" of the brake pads. Wet the tips of your thumb and index finger with caliper grease and just rub it all over every piece of hardware. You basically want a coat so thin on the hardware you can't see it but you can feel it. Install the gently greased hardware onto the bracket. 6. Make sure the face of the hub that contacts the rotor is completely cleaned and apply copper, nickel or aluminum anti seize sparingly to the flat face of the hub and don't get any on the lug studs/threads. This can kill someone of their lugs come loose on a highway. You don't have to get anti seize that close to the lugs for it to work anyways. Now spray your new rotor from top to bottom if it has grease on it with brake cleaner. Make sure it is dry and install the rotor and secure it. 7. Slide the caliper and bracket back together, secure the rubber boots to their spots and squish the air out of the boots. Make sure the pins are as deep as they go and install the brake pads one by one. It can be a trick at first but if you get it once you got it forever. I repeat make sure that the slide pins are fully in as deep as they go into the caliper before you install the pads. The pads might not fit if you don't make sure the slide pins are in all the way for the entire time you are installing both pads. Use the law of symmetry while installing each pad. They should slide in with minimal resistance. If they are not sliding in make sure that your hardware is nice and firm against the bracket and proceed to continue installing the brake pads. Do not force anything ever when installing anything having to do with brakes. If it is not I stalling easily something is in the way. Just stop and look to see what is in the path's space occupation of motion. Don't get any grease or oils on the actual brake pad material. It will deep into the pad the moment it touches so if you do accidentally get grease on the pad spray the spot immediately with a few spurts of brake cleaner and you will be fine. Now make sure your gloves thumbs are dry and hold the entire assembly like a burger which includes the bracket and caliper and brake pads and put your thumbs in between the brake pads to keep them from moving. Pick up this assembly as described and carefully install once you have the rotor in between the brakes your golden take your time and screw in theTOP BRACKET BOLT FIRST. This prevents your brake assembly from tilting back by accident and having to start over installing your pads. Button everything up and if you are reusing the same bracket bolts go above the factory torque spec at your discretion. Factory torque specs are meant to be used on new bolts and nuts since the shape of the nuts and bolts' threads are factory fresh. Their shape changes once they have been used so go tighter than factory specs especially on the bracket bolts. Mount the brake line bracket. Make sure you use your strength and push and pull the caliper with your hand to make sure everything moves smoothly and that there are no noises. If you followed these directions there will be no noise. Go to the brake pedal and press on the brake pedal several times at first it'll be squishy but it will end up firm as usual. Do not start the car until you have a firm brake pedal. If there is any kind of squeaking while breaking you missed something, maybe wipe some WD-40 on the brake pedal pivot point but if there is any noise coming from any of the actual brake assemblies you missed something. Probably lube.Hope this helps

Great tips. Thanks! I've started using ZEP products because of your videos. Great stuff.

Hey Chris, I have always done your 10 tips independently. We must both be geniuses. Tip #11: The bleeder nipple can be frozen in the caliper. If so, remove the caliper and empty the fluid. Heat the area of the caliper where the nipple threads into it. The nipple will usually break free. Use a new nipple. Weather the nipple was frozen or not, put some anti seize on the threads and they will never freeze.

Hi Chris, i did change rear brake pads for my Nissan Qashqai after i watched your video many times. now i am very confident to do it myself. My next project is to change brake rotter. Many thanks for details guides. from UK

Your videos are the best. I don’t think a professional mechanic is as detailed as you are

This video is just great. Thanks for the tips Chris!

Great tip. Like to put a dab of brake lube on the hold down clips. Also I open the brake fluid cap,before I press the pistons in. Great video.

These are some great tips! I'm about to do the front brakes, and I'm glad I found your video!

Good tips, Chris! One of the best channels on KZfaq.

One of my top fifteen is to slightly loosen the lug nuts just a turn or two, called "breaking", while the wheels are still on the ground. This way, when the car is up on the jack stands, getting the lug nuts off is a heck of lot easier. Another tip is too tape off, prime and paint the bare hub of the rotor, the part of course that doesn't come in contact with the pads. I also get off any rust and prime and paint the hub but that's just me. I hate rust.

These videos are awesome. Swear by them!

Awesome! Good job explaining everything.

Love tip 8- never did that One before - great idea. Great video thanks!

Hey Chris thanks for another great vid I am learning a lot off of you and you got my sub for sure. Cheeky request, could you do a video on how to troubleshoot all the different brake noises you can get and what they could mean or how to stop or prevent them etc? I am going to go and check my brakes now because I heard some squealing yesterday and I thought it was just dust or a stone caught in the rotor but it might be the bear wear indicator. I am confused though because the noise lasted for maybe 15 mins and it depended on steering and changed with how much brake used but was almost always there and then stopped. Any suggestion welcome btw

I can't believe I never thought of turning the wheel xd I busted my hands up so many times xd thanks for that tip :)

These are good vids. A nice refresher. Good idea about the brake fluid, never done that! Thanks!

Chris fix is always my go to for quick knowledge when I’m working on my car