Hi John, glad it helped and was of use to you. Please feel free to share any other videos you would like to get help with. JK

Glad we could help. You may want to also look at myboiler.com/energy-saving/ to see if you can save any more. JK

Glad it was helpful! JK

Hi, usually this is caused by debris in the water. It’s a very good idea to start your heating in the summer at least once a once to prevent seizure of components. Also very important to make sure inhibitor / anti rusting is present in the system. JK

Hi, so glad it helped you. JK

Hi Pierre, if it makes a lot of noise or "tac" "tac" "tac", it usually means the mechanism of that zone valve head is worn out and/or slipping. Very likely you will need to replace. JK

Hi Adam, not sure if you have a combination of electrical and/or mechanical issues. Check to make sure the programmer is sending out 240v to each valve correctly and independently ie 1 at a time and check each valve is working ie opening up. The final stage of each valve opening is the trigger to activate the boiler via a microswitch, this can also stop working when the mechanical side of things becomes a little weak and the trigger arm does not touch the microswitch. Please note this requires working with electrics safely and may require a heating professional. Hope that helps, JK

@@MyBoiler Thanks for the Quick reply ... strange thing is there only seems to be the one valve in the hot press ... I also just noticed that , when I switch heating on downstairs , burner kicks in ok but the lever on the port valve doesn't move and still has a lot of resistance.. just to note also that this is an oil fired boiler system . Thanks . Adam

@@ADAMMCCR Hi Adam, the fuel system does not matter so much in terms of controls generally as it's still a hydronic system. Can you state your system type ie is it S Plan, Y Plan etc. How many zones you have ie hot water and radiators, or hot water, downstairs(seperate timing,or thermostat etc), upstairs (seperate timing etc). Maybe a little more details or pictures if possible. JK

@@MyBoiler hi thanks for the reply , I found the other 2 valves downstairs behind a wooden panel both the valves were broken and have replaced both and everything working now as it should ... the heating downstairs i assume was stuck open hence why the rads heated when the hot water was switched on independently.... I can't believe though were the other 2 valves are not exactly an ease of access. Oh and these valves are 18 years old.

@@ADAMMCCR I am glad you found the other valves. The old stuff was made to last, it's considered lucky if it lasts at least a year or two now. Although some smaller brands are now much better designed. JK.

Hey, seems like your mechanism is stuck, either the head itself, or the valve underneath. See this video ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNKJlJRqtsy9fp8.htmlsi=1fBoFtArX46vxytv ) to remove the head and use a pliers to gently swivel the valve into the open position. Please remember to turn off the power to the heating system before removing the head. JK

Hi, likely circulation issues or partial blockage on the heating circuit. Otherwise faulty zone valve/controls. JK

Hi, seems like that particular valve your controlling is responsible for the upstairs circuit and is not working, that is the valve has failed or no signal is reaching the valve via the timer, thermostat or programmer. JK

Brown and Neutral activate the motor, once it clicks the microswitch , orange and grey are connected. JK

If it’s super hot, it’s possible that it is on continuously when it shouldn’t be. Ie it’s supposed to come on and off with the programmer. You may want to check out other video on how to check off a 2 port zone valve is working. JK

On 3 port valves both the hot water and radiator pathway is kept open. As long as the hot water cylinder installation is installed to regulations, it would be ok. As a precaution, making sure your boiler flow temperature is set to no more than 65 degrees will ensure that overheating is not possible. JK

Hi, either not receiving a signal to open or faulty valve motor. JK

@@MyBoiler once turned on it makes a clicking noise however wont open, what would be rough cost to repair this? Based in East Midlands.

Hi, sorry we are based in London, so not sure of the repair costs there. You want to get a few quotes, likely only need to change the head. Possible for an electrician that has worked with these before to do it. JK

@@MyBoiler thank you!

It’s likely caused by the zone valve. Changing the motor by itself may or may not help, depends on the state of the spring mechanism and zone valve body. Likely there is debris in the valve causing it to not shut properly or thr mechanism being stuck. JK

Hi Scott, means your zone valve mechanism is no longer working as it should. Also check to see if the spindle is moving freely, use a small spanner or pliers to check. Then replace the zone valve head if the spindle on the base is moving freely. Hope that helps. JK

@@MyBoiler many thanks. I've got a replacement synchron and will attempt installation tomorrow.

@@scotttv2557 Hi Scott, usually the clicking only happens if the mechanism is worn out, that also usually means the synchron is fine. Would definetely have advised for a head replacement rather than just the synchron. Hope that helps. JK

@@MyBoiler Thanks JK. I've just ordered a new head. Luckily it detaches from the pipework, so should be an easy swap out with the power off.

All sorted. With power off ot took around 30 minutes and is all working perfectly.

Hey, I am not sure what your describing, however basically the timer / programmer sends a signal to the room thermostat or cylinder stat, if they are requesting heat from the boiler ie they are not satisfied, then a signal is sent to the valve motor to open up, and indirectly this activates the boiler switched live, bringing it on. There are a few scenarios, where either the power is not reaching the motor ie faulty programmer or room stat/ cylinder stat or wires (sometimes eaten by rodents). The other scenario is the mechanism of the 2 port valve is jammed and doesn't activate the boiler. In this case you have to replace the 2 port head and not just the motor inside. The other scenario is that the spindle on the base plate could be jammed by debris in the actual waterside of the valve. You have to take the head of, and see if the spindle is moving freely using an adjustable spanner or pliers. Also see following how to page myboiler.com/how-to/2-port-valve-checkout-procedure/?source=ytc Beyond this, it needs further investigation. Hope that helps. JK.

Hi, it may be that the mechanism inside this stock if you're not able to do exactly as in the video in which case you would need to replace the head. hope that helps. JK

Hi Rami, it mean's the mechanism is jammed into the open position and is unable to return to it's closed position. In this case very likely the zone valve head should be replaced also the base plate should be checked to make sure it's freely moving. This can also cause the valve to remain in the open position. You would have to remove the zone valve head to diagnose further. Hope that answers your question. Jayesh (MyBoiler Ltd)

Could the hot water be isolated in order to remove the head with little leaking or will the whole system needs to be drained? Thanks a lot

@beavence Most of the motorised heads are dry detachment ie can be removed without draining down. Only some of the older ones are not detachable. If you have a fault with the base valve, it would have to be drained fully or partially dependent on your particular system. JK

@@MyBoiler I am afraid is the base valve since I tried a new motor and still not working, so just wondering if it will be possible to close the hot water main and the return and that will hold the water. at the bottom of the cylinder there is drain so I guess it will be possible to drain some water first since the valve is higher up, to avoid water coming out??? Thanks a lot

@beavence Sometimes removing the head, twisting the spindle gently side to side, will only turn about 75 degrees total, if it is stuck, this usually indicates sludge in the system. Changing the motor by itself may not be enough if the mechanism itself is worn out. JK

If it is energised as shown in the video it should be open. The only exception is if the internal valved is clogged up or partially jammed then it may appear the valve is energised/open however in reality internally it would not allow water to pass. JK

@@MyBoiler thank you for coming back so quickly. From what you are saying, all 2 port motorised valves that one would expect to find on a domestic central heating and hot water system are energised (powered) to open and not powered to close. Is there a type that are powered to close and not powered to open?

Yes there is a powered to close type, usually found on solid fuel appliances or on advanced setups. These will usually not have a lever. JK

@@MyBoiler thank you for your help

If you create videos which address people’s problems, you will get viewers. As heating is an essential part of life, people view videos to sort their heating and hot water problems, especially if they have no heating or hot water. Hope that answers your question. JK.