Love these videos. It gave me good understanding on what to do and what to expect when connecting system. Well done!

Very well done. This simplifies my whole plan of installation of an outdoor wood boiler. I have been a steam engineer and boiler operator for 40 years, but I know very little about HVAC, so this stuff really helps!

Sir great information this is a well Presented video with great information and you will be my first call when I am ready to install my system

Good video Jeff,I'm curious to know what affect horizontal mounting would have on the BPHE in this application. My installation would look a lot nicer, and have less restriction overall due to fewer 90's in the plumbing.Also, most BPHE for wood boilers don't show a recommended flow path for hot/cold , if I were to upsize to a 70 plate vs. my calculated 60 plate requirements ,could I interchange the flow path , assuming I still used a counter flow arrangement?

Very good information...now I have a hi efficiency IBC VCF 15-150. I fully understand how and where to connect my plate exchanger. Being the IBC is completely electronically controlled, will it try to fire if the water temp is adequate for heating?

Very useful videos on this channel. Please note that this video, along with Pt1, are labeled "indoor furnace" when they should be labeled "indoor boiler". Very confusing when looking for your videos about outdoor boiler and indoor forced-air furnace. And the Pt2 description mentions "installing a water-to-air heat exchanger" which isn't a factor in a boiler-to-boiler situation.

which will heat up the domestic hot water quicker the plate or tube exchanger

The dealer I am buying my boiler from, is telling me that directly plumbing the wood boiler to my home oil boiler (making it an unpressurized system) will be an OK way to do it? I do understand that the use of corrosion additives will be needed when new water is introduced to the system (i.e. startup and adding water overtime). He said this option will be easiest and most cost-effective. I refered to using a plate exchanger as you have talked about, he seem to guide me to not doing it your way. I am about to spend a lot of money, and i want to do it right. Your thoughts?

I'm an hvac tech. I have a customer with a wood boiler and we will be replacing the oil boiler soon. It looks like it is piped wrong according to video 1. There is no break in the return, it is just teed in, but the plate exchange has two circulators on it, I'm not sure if it would tie in the same or not. I'm really not familiar with this style of exchangers. I want to tie it in so it works correctly( which he says it works but he burns a lot of wood). Just a question. By the way, this was some hard info to find, I should have known how but it was too simple to see. Lol

Great Video. This situation is very much what's going on with my system. Can you give me advice a fix that uses the seemingly superfluous circulator pump as means to keep the core of the boiler high? Obviously I'd redirect the system return to head directly to the plate exchanger as the first step. (currently, the loop to the heat exchanger is t'ed to the oil furnace on both the supply and return side of the furnace; the hot from heat exchanger is on the return side, the "cold" to the exchanger is t'ed on the system supply side.

No problem , i got seems pretty simple .

your forgetting one very important thing, at the plate heat exchanger to install a cross over line with a ball valve on it, as ball valves on each line before the heat exchanger but after the cross over, and install 4 boiler drains, 1 at each port of the heat exchanger, between the heat exchanger and ball valve, for yearly servicing of cleaning the scale out of both sides of the heat exchanger, as the build up of scale lowers your heat transfer, some places need it cleaned more then once a year depending how hard there water is, I hate whn I go to a home to get there hot water back weather it is there home heating water or there domestic hot water, it having to cut the whole heat exchanger out to clean it, and having to solider it all back in, installing all the extra parts needed for a fast and simple service of the unit, and have to hand them a huge bill, that should have been a rather small one, but I see it all the time, and they paid big money to have it installed in the first place that should have included these service ports for what they first paid

for radiant floor use, floorl temperature would b controlled with 3way valve from the flatplate heat exchanger? Assuming the wood boiler is running at 180 to the heat exchanger and as you said, all returns must go through the boiler, 110 is quite sufficent for slab heat...

Great!! Can you please show how you would limit the Temperature returning to the propane Boiler on a Floor Hydronics Loop? Can't have 175deg water going through the floor i'm told. I have an NTI propane boiler and the domestic closed loop is separate from the floor hydronics loop. thanks for your time

Instead of using buckets to check gallons per minute, would it not be ok to install a flow gauge to determine gallons per minute, instead of breaking a line?

If the outdoor furnace goes out and cools of won’t your oil furnace be trying to heat you outdoor furnace?

Question: My outdoor wood furnace supply line was plumbed directly into my oil boiler, without using a heat exchanger. Is that ok? Also, my return lines(3 zones) are always hot, but the supply lines are not always hot. Does that mean that my water is going backwards?

Hook to indoor furnace No that’s a boiler 😂