Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.

Thank you! I am glad that you enjoyed it.

The lumbricals function as a stabilizer so they are used but yes, don't quite take the strain and stress as the pulley's, flexor digitorum profundus, superficialis, etc. Often times a strain to one of the lumbricals comes from a force load at a specific angle or maybe a sharp increase in the load such as after a foot blow. Training pockets is a great idea though! We will have to work on it. There are also a few things you can do to rehab the lumbricals. The "L" position turning tendon gliding activates the lumbricals. Applying light resistance in this position can start to retrain them. You can also safely massage the muscles with an instrument to assist in the healing if the tissue is not acutely inflamed.

@@HoopersBeta awesome, thanks so much for your help!! gonna start doing some massaging and tendon gliding

Still doing it?

@@Jay-vr8it I am, atleast once or twice a week, doing sets of 6x12 now, like the Lattice app prescribes for endurance. Also do max hangs once or twice a week and do pocket training once a week. Noticing steady improvement, using a pulleysystem to not overload on the repeaters.

I'm super curious how much people lose in a hiatus and at what rate - I have also been coming back from non climbing related injuries, and also just refocused to other sports from time to time. So even though it's been over 9 years since I started climbing I don't know how carefully to treat myself. Thankfully my current recovery I'm rehabbing an arm anyways so I had to rebuild slowly. Also focusing a lot on technique to stay interested even as the climbs are "easy". I've never had a pulley injury, but did have collateral ligament pain twice during my peak skill & practice periods.

Strong question! So, here's my input. Yes, the physiological response is different but it depends entirely on your effort. So, limit bouldering is meant to be high intensity, max level strength/tension. So, if you are performing 3 limits, you are creating a ton of load/tension and (hopefully) force a physiological adaptation. If you do too much, you start to destroy the tissue until the point where you weaken and risk injury. If you don't do enough, and you won't force a change. If you did enough to create a change, you then need time to rest and recover to heal up to 100% so that you can go hard again. If you don't rest enough, you are just going hard on tissue that's not 100%, so your effort won't be the same. So, the benefit of doing 3 in a day then resting is you are increasing the chance of forcing a physiological change. On the flip side, doing 1per day for 3 days can actually show you if you are making max effort moves. Example: you pick a limit that involves 5 moves and you can't hit the 5th one. Next day, you try again and you can... Well, you probably didn't warm up enough, sleep well, have caffeine... Or you just didn't try hard enough because the next day you hit it. On the other hand, if the next day you get stuck at the 3rd move, then you know that the limit problem you have set is indeed a good limit and you need time to recover from it. (There are of course other factors that go into what will or won't allow you to send as many moves, but it can be a guideline). In summary, both have a benefit if you understand your training and your body, but 3/day with more rest will likely increase your chances of creating a change. Now, to rest my thumbs. Hope this helps!

u fixed it?

Sounds like you're progressing quickly! There are many factors that go into initiating finger training and if you're serious about it you may want to get a climbing coach who can factor in your age, weight, training frequency, etc.

@@HoopersBeta thank you!

Just to confirm: you're looking for training towards two finger crimps not two finger pockets?

@@HoopersBetayes, but if you have tips on two finger pockets I'll be happy to hear them! Thank you for responding!

Typically involves antagonistic muscle groups but it can also be agonistic. For example: you may do some wrist extension training which you may think of as the antagonistic muscle, but really, we couldn't generate much force with our grip without the extensors, so it's helping us, not acting against us. It may also be a general body exercise, such as doing a deadlift to train tension in the posterior chain, it may not be perfectly climbing specific but it is going to improve your climbing. Good question though! I hope this helps clarify that!

Good question. This is going to vary person to person. I say that because there is more than 1 variable. In preferable scenario? You would have ~6 months climbing experience under your belt, you're climbing no more than 3x/week, and your starting with recruitment pulls into the open crimp position so that you can slowly build up your tolerance. You do that training once or twice a week, and you slowly work that up and integrate the half crimp position into your climbing, and you're incorporating plenty of rest in between. As you progress with this and months go by, you can start that same cycle over but with the closed crimp or full crimp position but only doing that 1x/week. Again, to allow your tissue to slowly adapt to it. There is no "perfect" answer for this because as mentioned, everyone's genetics are different, training patterns differ, sleep matters, relative health matters, etc. Hopefully that gives you some guideline, although. Side note: the "grade" you climb isn't a great scale because grades can vary from gym to gym or crag to crag.

That will be different very everyone based upon their genetics, history with athletics, etc. Best way to formulate it looks roughly like this: intensity + volume = total work. In this sense, full crimping is more intense on your pulley's and joints, but if you keep the volume low, then the total increase in work on your pulley's and joints may be OK. The problem is that most people don't monitor that volume well enough so they drastically increase the total work and cause injuries. Basically, "it depends". It depends on the aforementioned equation and how well you manage it. If you did a full crimp that was only 10% of your body weight and only did it twice, you'd probably be fine :) If you did a full crimp that was 50% of your body weight and did it 15 times.... well, that's a different story :) Hope this helps! Edit: Also, forgot to mention. Don't forget that being patient is progress. And strengthening your open hand and FDP muscles is extremely helpful with climbing. Don't just go for the send if it requires you to half crimp. Be patient with your strength gains and improvements.

@@HoopersBeta thanks so much!!

I think it is highly dependend on the individual. I feel like with four fingers i naturally go into a full crimp position because my pinky is too short. The three finger drag feels a little better but kinda awkward instead of the half crimp.

Try and use an open hand grip on the holds; at some point you will have to start crimping but that early in your climbing you can still make gains on your open hand position

I agree with Squirg! Try to use an open hand grip and get stronger in that regard. It is safer and very beneficial down the road. Work on your technique, and slowly integrate crimping but avoid overuse or overdependency on that position :)

Wish I'd seen that before spraining my A2 pulley 😂 Did my first V5 3-4 weeks ago and I started to try V6-V7 problems, as well as 5.11a toprope climbs while using crimps excessively.

water or booze?

No not silent :) Sometimes I just speak quickly?

The t in "anatomy" is pronounced different from the t in "tick". Native English speakers won't even notice but it's a completely different sound. The first sound clip in this link comparing "latter" vs. "ladder" is great. "Anatomy" is pronounced more like "anaddomy"

Nerds unite!