So if I weigh 195 the how much weight do I put on my max

aokwokwok jongkok anjirr..

I've tried following all the advice for the deep squat and I still cannot do for any more that a few seconds before falling backwards, my ankle and hip flexability are beyond what is needed, I can get my knee to the wall with my toes a full middle fonger away, and my hips can't be the problem as I can lay down in childs pose for hours without feeling any stretch. It'd be great if you saw this, because I'm getting frustrated that I can't do this squat even with all my mobility.

I can only get halfway up before my forearm fascia pull to much on my medial epicondyle.

Guess I'll go climbing

I wouldn’t do any specific training while fatigued, but general movement should be okay.

"if your mentally and physically fatigued go home and recover" Haha not like I ever wanted to climb again anyway

Give me ur sweet sweet voice back 😢

Im officially mid 60s next month. My idea of fresh is probably everyone else's fatigued. If I cant get fresh for a sesh, it is time for a deload. A whole sesh of easier climbs can be a great deload.

You could try cloning your own voice cause your voice is defenetly better(if u want the convenience of ai voice)

My enjoyment went for 10 to 0 with the AI voice. Personal narration gives a more professional look to your videos. Totally worth the trouble.

Mentally fresh and suboptimal power output screams for a scary slab sesh.

Another vote against the robot voice, really loses the personal touch of your videos! But as always thanks for all the great content!

Feedback about the voice : I prefer yours 😅 nice vid thanks

for how long did they take it?!

I always listen to the sound, and I agree your voice is much better! Also, I like the and that’s today’s beta at the end 😜

I'm super, thanks for asking All things considered, I couldn't be better I must say....

Dude your own narrations are much better than ai generated

Mentally fatigued? Nah man, if I could physically climb 24/7, I'd do it! LET'S GOOO

Start route climbing! Silly geese!

Jason hi live in San Diego I just found out you work at UC San Diego after all these years of watching you anyway I would like to speak with you anyway possible I had an injury about two years ago dislocated elbow broken wrist Radial head replacement just got back into Climbing pushed a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future sorry for spam thought this was a good way to contact you

Jason hi live in San Diego I just found out you work at UC San Diego after all these years of watching you anyway I would like to speak with you anyway possible I had an injury about two years ago dislocated elbow broken wrist Radial head replacement just got back into Climbing, pushed it a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future thanks Jason!

Jaysooooon hi I live in San Diego just found out u work at uc San Diego after all these years of watching you, anyway I would like to speak with you anyway possible I had a Injury about 2 years ago (dislocated elbow, broken wrist, radial head replacement) just got back into climbing and pushed it too hard now my wrist hurts when I pro or supinate it’s feeling better but would love to know how to avoid it in the future

Thank you 😊

I have pain daily from mopping 6 days per week on my job 😩

Thanks USMC

in short, Weight training is unnecessary, risky and dangerous outside of professional settings, calisthenics is OP. I think that L-sit, V-sit, and other gymnastic/callisthenic core exercises are good

this is deff my problem, long intense climbs making the tips of my pinkeys and ring fingers go numb, very specific sharp neve pain inside the inside of my elbow starting at the ulnar and moving up and along the anatomical nerve path into my lower inside bicep, the prayer stretch was a position i already knew because i had used it to identify when i would feel the bicep and ulnar pain. flossing, prayers stretch and the doorway bicep stretch i think are the best suited, especially the doorway bicep stretch. Since I'm newer to climbing, but accelerated quickly to V5, I am dealing with crimps at full extension, but still don't have the finger strength and practice, and confident footwork to handle them with relaxed form and straight elbows, thus im still muscling my way through more difficult hand positions with bent elbows. It used to be worse, but it has gotten better, and i think that may be due to better form and footwork, while the muscles and nerves have adjusted to the work. ideal elbow is locked off or straight arm, but the wide angle bent elbow is the most intense strain.

I love your approach to analyzing the study quality which makes it all the more cringe when you started hyping ag1. It totally undercuts your rational approach brand.

Hello doctor, would you recommend how many hours training children 5_7 and 8_12 need each session? Is 1:30 enough or 2 hours is also okay? Thank you so much

It honestly doesn't matter, my ADHD makes it so I can't really stick to anything for more than a few times before I either forget or get too bored to the point where I'd just rather endure the pain than the boredom.

I met Dan and Kyra in Innsbruck last week and they were the coolest people to (briefly) hang out with. Thanks for that and thanks, of course, for all the great climbing content.

Good men hooooot 🔥💋💋

Asian seems to have no issue to do this regardless their flexibility

7:37 Egg or other protein would have been interesting, but would not have been a placebo.

I did the 1st and tore my muscles when I slipped my feet and for a second my whole body weight went on 2 fingers...

I unintentionally made a muscle UP, training pull UPS.with weight, I went to do it without weight, I went up a lot

I just do a light hangboard “workout” as a warmup. 3 on, 3 off, for a few sets at comfortable down to difficult (but never painful). 👌

THIS IS A GAME CHANGER

Great video! I'm curious (since really the only info for a rehab plan I could find was from one single study): would a similar approach be viable with PIP synovitis? I think I suffer from combination of the two after pushing it too hard with a taped pulley injury. (Symptoms: decreased mobility, pain the next morning after climbing; sharp pain half crimping; more of a mild pain and a pulling sensation on the back of my finger in open hand positions) My first rehab plan of resting until the inflammation decreased and then slowly progressing with farmer's crimps and then adding some light climbing (open hand) after about two weeks felt quite good, until I had a setback after 3-4 weeks because of trying too hard on a sloapy / juggy route in the overhang, which maybe put too much pressure on it. Now I am unsure whether I should take a similar approach again with even more caution and slower progressions (fingers dont hurt on daily activities anymore), or whether I should completely rest for a couple of weeks before adding exercises such as farmer's crimp.

I can do it on toes. I absolutely cannot flat foot the move.

Just talked about it today

i watched Baki so i know 😅

Lot of muscle atrophy in those feet. You need to stop wearing shoes so much.

Dr. Hooper: "Your time could be spent on more productive things, such as addressing that nagging shoulder issue." Me: "How did you know 😲?!" I just crossed the 1 year mark since I last strapped on a harness to go climbing for fun 😔... Thoracic Outlet Syndrome is so ANNOYING 😮‍💨... But, my PT just started me on deadhangs & easy boxing during our sessions, as well as easy rock climbing. So hopefully my shoulders and spine (I injured that a few months later) both start working like normal again soon, so I can hop on the wall... I'M HAVING HEIGHT WITHDRAWAL 😵‍💫!!! -- Very interesting and well laid out video! I just got done watching those two videos, so this was the perfect continuation.

I basically hit my head on the roof doing normal pull ups so I gotta do them slow if I do this I’m finna be stuck in that bitch😂😂

"nope" coming up like it's time to change the reel...

F

As a recreational boulderer, I just do reactive deloads when I got a bit too much into climbing again to the point where I feel my body hurting(too much, in the wrong way). Basically deloads for me are a way to remind myself that while my motivation sometimes is, my body deffo isn't 15 anymore and getting closer to 2 decades of desk work just left a mark on me.