Excellent points!

Which version of coils would I need for 2004 f-150?

I would just call the Ford dealer with your VIN and get the part number directly for them, or look up by year/make/model on Napa, O'Reilly, etc.

Live and learn, in 1983 I was in line at the cashier at the chevy dealer the girl in front of me had a bill for 180$ for a exhaust manifold replacement on a new car they told her the warranty does not cover this repair and she paid the bill ! I learned ealry research and do your own repairs for nearly nothing!

I dropped a cylinder on my Crown Vic. It lost power and stuttered all the way home. CEL came on. Ticket writer at the dealership would have a field day with this one. Instead, I pulled a coil at the junk yard. Tested it with a DVM (not fool proof but better than nothing). Problem fixed for $21.

Awesome addition of information, thanks!

@@TonyTheTruckGuy No Problem I love this motor I have a 97 f150 xlt !st year of 5.4l and a2010 F150 fx4 last year of 5.4l I know this motor in and out. If you would like a few pointers I learned over the years about the 5.4 only. Let me know there a a few upgrades that you will actually see/feel difference but most 5.4l upgrades the gains are minimal they may look cool but when tested. Performance is minute if any at all. Not to say bling is bad. But if purchasing aftermarket upgrades expecting performance unless throwing a Roush supercharger. "one of my dream builds" There only a few I'd spend $ on. This advice is my opinion only based on 1st hand trial and error thing that have met or beat expectation and thing I wasted $$$$ on. Just let me know. Have a good one.

The other thing to mention is that the intech 5.4l doesn't use a screw to secure the COP's - at least not the older 32valve - they are secured by a cover for all 4 on the side... Ford made something so easy so hard... thanks ford lol - Im dreading doing it, but at 160K they all need to be done - One tip - only use MOTORCRAFT plugs... I heard the early tritons had problems with plugs breaking off in the head... OMG what I nightmare that would be!

I'd rather buy the entire ignition coil

@@josephbagio7930 You have to - it's all one unit - Stupid not to do both and all 8 if you get the covers off and are in there anyways - mine runs like new again now!

Haha. Yeah, with my schedule, it's not easy to find a camera man. I did recently get a DJI Osmo gimbal to help smooth things out a bit and I'll be getting a few tripods and go pros in the future.

Lmao

Hello! I do not have a 4x4 video for your particular vehicle but it’s likely the switch itself or the actuator on the transfer case. As far as the coil goes, they just sit on top of the spark plug, there will not be any click or anything like you’re used to on older cars where the wire clips directly to to spark plug. If it’s still bucking, my guess is either bad spark plugs or another bad coil. Not sure what engine you have, but this 5.4 triton was bucking even after this coil replacement and I ended up doing all 8 spark plugs which fixed it.

Mine is same engine.

@@teddydabear242 By bet is plugs then but can’t say for sure without checking it out

I wish I could talk to you further on mechanical aspects of my expedition. But I don't want to monopolize your post on coil pack replacement.

@@teddydabear242 Hey go for it man, throw all the comments you want out here haha. I can’t promise I’ll be super helpful on the specific topics since I work on such a broad range of vehicles, but I’ll do my best!

Yeah they don't make it fun on some of them lol. Glad you got it fixed!

The evo? Tells you how spark is on each cylinder ? I have a 06 and just messed with the evo for a while I have original coils on new plugs at 92k miles Thinking I should do new coils

@@joesmith-fi1sx Yes it shows the codeAnd tells you on which cylinder has a misfire primary/secondary msd 8243 coils. The multimeter showed coil was good new platinum plugs. Check the cylinder with my ridgid Ca-25 everything good. Pulled the coil and spark while running. Boot had a microscopic crack. Only 50,000 miles on coils. Can upgrade with downloading tunes

Hah, it’s NEVER the bank that’s easy to get at 😂 good luck!

2007 ford f150 has 206000 miles it also stumbles at minor acceleration and it makes this nasty loud rattling,tapping noise and it shakes so bad, it fells like it's gonna fall apart. It started doing this about onth ago while going up a hill. Did yours shake and make noises? Thanks I'm desperate to get this truck back on track.

@@j.carlos146 my truck didn’t shake or make rattling noises, it just struggled to run strong and consistently. You might have an issue with some aspect of timing, either ignition or camshaft.

@@j.carlos146 same here on my 04.f150- Put all 8 motorcraft coils on -still missing-scanner reads missing on primary coil A and E and secondary coil B and H??? Idk. I'm ready to pull what hair i have left OUT

8 coil packs for $50 dollars equates to Chinese knock off parts and not genuine Motorcraft replacements. These parts are everywhere on Ebay and now Amazon. There are videos on You Tube to help spot the fakes and save ones self from a lot of grief. If your $50 eight pack lasts, consider yourself very fortunate.

@@majorkursk780 I am in agreement with your assertion on principle, yet I did shop around for the brand that offered a warranty, which was 5 years.

The OEM has coils are expensive and is what everybody recommends that’s why people don’t usually do all of them even though it makes me feel better lol

Super consistent I see lol

Nice trick. Another trick is to read the DTC using Gage Engineering mode. Hold down the trip reset button on the instrument cluster and turn ignition on without engine start. When display says "Gage", release the button and it will enter Gage Test mode and test all the dials. When complete, you can then use the button to toggle through the messages until you get to DTC. I wish I knew what the data displays mean or how useful the DTC readout is. This works on my 08 Crown Vic. I've read this being done with other Ford models. Now that I know the three key turn trick clears DTC codes, it is possible to do emergency repairs without a scanner or code reader.

Typically you’re right, but Ford likes to do things backwards and make it complicated 😂

I'm glad someone thinks so.

Yeah the back ones definitely are not fun lol. It’s just a space issue though, same steps as all the other ones. Just going to take more time and patience.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks for the encouragement , lol. I have to do it

Whirl Wind really??? have you bought fuel injectors?? which one do you like and how long have you had them on??

I going to say something that I'm sure many of you will laugh like hell and say bull crap. But here goes, when you get a reading on your checker that coils are operating at, say 80%, there's far better and cheaper fix. Clean the frigging complete throttle body system before you buy any coils. Dealerships will not tell you this. However is the code is the coil pack then change it. Got 318,000 miles on my 2003 Expedition 5.4, Eddie Bauer an have only replace one coil at a time, just the one that needed. Since I bought the Expedition, I have replace only had to replace five coil packs in total. Be sure to understand what may have caused the coil pack to go bad. Example #4 could go bad because of anti freeze leaking form that little by pass hose, hanging over #4. Replacing number 4 and 8 are a real pain in the but.

Would a coil or plug make the truck jerk going up a hill

I also have a 05 f150 with 5.4 and it has 225,000 miles, my truck does the same thing it show's no code and the service light does not come on but when its under load like going up hill in high gear you feel a chug or miss every once and a while .If I let up on the gas a little it stops,when I change plugs it stops this problem, I have only had one coil go bad since the truck was new.RockAuto has good coils for the best price.

@@andyhodge2568 Yes it will try plugs first.

Why? Explain why.. you HIGHLY recommend.. 🙄

@@shaffydaffy3050 Google is your friend

Except that other new packs don't extend down that far.

Yeah haha, Ford numbers their cylinders weird. I believe cylinder 1 is the front passenger side and then as you go towards the rear, it’s cylinder 2, 3, 4. Then 5-8 are on the drivers side bank. May be a coil issue if you’re still having problems after plugs.

Nope, pavement princess. Mud ruins things lol.

Just don’t do it with the engine running, you might get zapped haha.

I wouldn’t worry about a negative number so much as a number that it way off from the other numbers. The -33 on cylinder 1 was definitely the outlier. #8 may have been low due to trying to compensate for #1 for all we know. These numbers are basically just calculated contribution of that cylinder, and the higher the number, the better it is.

I didn’t but typically a bit of electrical grease on the end of the coil that contacts the spark plug won’t hurt anything. I don’t really mess with adding any to the actual electrical connector.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy okay and another thing this car has been sitting for about a good 2-3 years without running. When took the right side of the coils out the # 6-8 coils have like this brownish liquid on the coil. Would you happen to know what that is?

Probably just some old dielectric grease. Doesn’t hurt anything so long as the metal coil can still contact the spark plug. If the car has been sitting that long, I would also see if there’s a fuel filter you can change.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy alright that was going to be my next solution the fuel filter. But hey Thanks Tony I appreciate the help I'll let you know if there's no more misfire

Switch the suspected bad coil to a different cylinder then clear codes. If the code comes back for the same cylinder, you know it’s not the coil, and if the code follows to the cylinder you moved that coil to, you know it’s the coil. Also double check the cylinder layout. Ford is usually weird and their “bank 1” is the passenger side as opposed to chevy and most others where bank 1 is drivers side. I believe for also numbers them in numerical order vs firing order.

Link in video description! It should be the first link - yellow looking goofy thing haha.

A lot of things could cause a misfire. Low compression, bad plugs, coils, or wires, lack of fuel supply, etc. Does the car start at all? I would also check your oil level to make sure the engine didn’t go dry and starve for oil. If that looks good, plugs and wires are cheap enough to replace that I would probably do that next.

Coils should always apply the same energy each time they fire as far as I’m aware. Usually they just stop working all together, or are making an intermittent connection with the spark plug which could also cause a sputtering. As long as that cylinder 1 coil is getting hood power and ground, the spark plug and coil should fix it.

I was having the lumpiness in 5th gear only. Then after letting someone look it started under load as early as second gear. Me and my neighbor tinkered with it and found the connection right to the coil was not completely clipped…so he somehow got them to actually click in…all the lower gear lumpiness gone…fast forward 3 days I have two coils replaced now we have lumpiness and flashing cel under extreme load… I’m fkkn lost atm

@@kevinhuguet9675 Any codes?

Atm no codes no cel nothing. Tuner isn’t picking up anything either.

@@kevinhuguet9675 Well that blows. Kind of need something to act up to know where to go haha. This truck was kinda the same thing though. It took quite some time of it running like crap before it threw a light. I ended up replacing all the spark plugs and a few of them were cracked. You may have that issue as well, but these plugs can be a major pain to replace. They’re notorious for breaking off.

Definitely possible since the components likely expand with heat

@@TonyTheTruckGuy 👍

You mean disconnected the battery and then touching the ground and power cables together? Could try it. Or even just disconnecting the battery might work. Some vehicles that works and some it doesn’t. Worth a shot!

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Yes, I said with a jumper because sometimes the cables aren't long enough to reach over the battery. Thx!

@@icicicles Got it haha. Good luck!

I would have, but I didn’t have access to the correct specifications, so I’d just have to compare them to each other which doesn’t help much if there’s several coils that are bad.

Ugh. Sorry to hear about the struggle. I think at this point, your best bet is to buy or rent a compression tester. Remove 1 spark plug and check for compression 1 cylinder at a time. This should let you know if you have damaged pistons or valves. If the compression check turns out good, you’re probably looking at fuel or electrical. I know the “fuel pump drivers” on the F150 is notorious for going out.

I may be late but your problem sounds like the fpdm.fuel pump driver module.these trucks fuel pressure at all vacuum controlled make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

Unfortunately I’m not familiar with Colorado’s, never had to work on one surprisingly lol. It could be many things including spark plugs or coil. Doesn’t always throw a code for stuff like that but like I said there’s many possible causes.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks, Ill start with fuel filter and plugs

You have to depress the tab on the bottom side of the connector at the same time you're trying to unplug the connector. Wiggling while you pull usually helps because dirt and other debris gets in there and makes it harder to disconnect. It also helps sometimes to actually push the connector ON, then depress the retainer tab and try to unplug it. If there's any tension on the retainer tab, it won't release when you depress it. Last option would be to use a small pick or screwdriver to wedge under the retainer tab and then you can focus on wiggling and pulling on the connector.

Thanks!

I’m not sure to be honest. Unless they changed manufacturers or materials. But as long as they’re the same part number should be fine.

On the 2008 F-150's is when Ford decided to redesign the spark plugs. When they did that, they switched to the "brown" colored boot that had the new design plug. All other F-150's from 2004 until about September/October build date time frame in 2008 had old design plugs that would seize and snap in the head when you would try to remove them. They also had the "black" boots on those. That's how you know if you have the newer or older design plugs. The newer plugs look more like a regular spark plug whereas the older plugs have that ground shield on them.

So the holes for the bolts that hold down the fuel rail are stripped out? I assume that’s the intake manifold that the bolts thread in to. If there’s still material there, you can try to drill and tap it for a slightly bigger bolt. Otherwise the intake manifold would need to be replaced.

Tony The Truck Guy No no the valve covers, the cover for the cylinder head

Tony The Truck Guy I’m so sorry I feel retarded, I meant the Ignition coils not the fuel injectors

Oh ok, well those would be slightly easier than the intake manifold to replace of the drilling and tapping doesn’t work with a heli-coil kit

Tony The Truck Guy So if the ignition coils are just sitting on top of the spark plug but they are loose and nothing is holding it snug, for 3 of my cylinders could that be causing the misfiring

2654 engine camshaft position sensors, board expedition, two of them. How do I do that?

2006 5.4 expedition, camshaft position sensors to them. How do I do it?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qL6CrbJhm9-apqM.htmlsi=Cx5iO-Rj2231WItl

Had the exact same symptoms on an ‘06 that was my ex’s and it ended up being a combination of 2 things. The spark plugs were cracked and causing misfire under load, but wouldn’t throw an engine light. Then after that it was having issues with the torque converter staying locked up so I changed the solenoid for that. I would start with plugs and inspect the coils for any cracks or damage while doing the plugs. But be.m careful, the plugs on these engines are notorious for breaking upon removal.

35 PSI +/- 5

Thanks Tony! Just to make sure I forgot to tell the year is 2012. Ford redesigned their heads, It doesn't matter, right?

Oooookoo. That I’m not sure then. Didn’t they replace the 5.4 with the 5.0 in 2011? I thought you could only get the 5.4 in 2012 and newer if it’s a F-250 or higher. I guess I’m not positive on that one, but when I just did a google search for “5.4 triton fuel pressure”, I found multiple places saying 35 +/- 5.

Is it a 4 cylinder escape? And is there just 1 coil pack for all 4 spark plugs, or individual coil packs?

@@TonyTheTruckGuy they are individual and it's a 4 cylinder.

That’s very strange if none of the 4 are getting spark. I would get one of the coil on plug testers that you hold on top of the coil and it lights up if the coil is getting power. If you’re getting power to the coil but no spark then the coil is likely bad but I have a hard time believing that all 4 went out at the same time. If you’re not getting power to the coils then I would verify good battery connection. The engine ECU likely supplies power to the coils so there could be an issues there as well but I always start with the basics.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy I thought it was strange too. However, I pulled each spark plug out and tested individually by turning the engine over and touching it to the frame or metal and got nothing. I also found it hard to believe all four went out at the same time as well. I had the problem after a -7° degree night. Is there a way to test the two wires that go in the coil for power? I have a multi meter, maybe just check volts when I'm cranking the engine?

Well get this, I just went outside and it fired up! Something got frozen I guess and thawed out this morning. Thanks for replying and helping out buddy.

I usually don’t mess with them unless it starts throwing codes for misfire. I can’t remember how much they cost but I do have them in the video description.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy thank you

Christopher Karedis I just recently bought a coils for my 05 f250. I costed around 60$ for just one coil.

@@sebastiancastro986 wow!

It should be illegal to use road salt here lol. South is looking more and more tempting, but I really hate the heat.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Here is the best kept secret about the south, North Va. Beach, it never gets hot because of the on shore breeze from the Chesapeake bay. I spend two hours a day everyday walking on the beach in the summer I walk in the evening though because of my fair skin.

You may also have bad plugs if you haven’t changed those lately.

Tony The Truck Guy already replaced with all new plugs but thanks

computer is bad

Chuck Urgitus, I have the same thing going on. Although after changing the coil packs, it doesn't misfire as much. But it still does, a little bit. I've considered that it might be the spark plug wire, but I can't seem to find anything definitive to support this. You got any ideas??

Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the plug boots it prevents spark jump

Jason joncas I have 270,000 on my 07 F150 replaced spark plugs 3 times, just now starting to change coils. Probably should of replaced coils a few miles ago..

I would verify all of the plugs are still tight and make sure they didn’t come loose for some reason. You shouldn’t be getting zapped unless there’s a poor ground. If all the plugs are tight I would probably replace the #2 coil. Also not sure if you already knew or not but the cylinder layout on Fords are different than the typical engine. I’d look up your engine’s cylinder layout to make sure you’re messing with the right cylinder.

I agree with Tony the truck guy on checking plugs & changing coil. I would suggest for the problem about you getting zapped & I know it sounds stupid. Get an old bungee strap, preferrably a flat one & fasten it to the truck somewhere metal, running board bumper, any as such & leave it long enough to touch the ground when stopped. Do NOT leave the hooks on it. That way everytime you stop it will touch the ground if only by an inch or so. Bet you will find within a day or so unless your clothing is causing a static build up that it will stop zapping you.I had an older 80's Chevy pickup 7 an early 90's Freightliner do the same thig & that little trick stopped both of them from doing it. Worth a try anyways. Good luck.

Clean ground on right framerail

Ugh. I hate the ‘ol parts cannon approach

Trouble code showed misfire on #2 cylinder. So they put a new coil pack on #1. Yesssssss that will definately fix #2 misfire. NOT! When confronted about this glaring mistake? They got huffy and hung up the phone.

Any codes? Also has the fuel filter been changed if it has one?

Tony The Truck Guy No codes. Filter changed last year.

Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to confirm fuel pressure? I know these F150’s have fuel pump driver module issues.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Not yet. It has plenty of power on hills and towing. Just that popping in the exhaust. Like fuel igniting in the pipe.

I’d verify good fuel pressure and if that looks good then you may have a plugged up cat or a more severe engine problem such as cam phasers

I would recommend also changing the plug with the coil if the same coil keeps going bad. Also try OEM Motorcraft coil and put some dielectric grease on the little metal spring in the coil boot that contacts the spark plug. Sometimes the coil can arc to the head.

Sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I love any tricks you can offer me.

@Briggs Major instablaster :)

@Titus Tyson thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

@Titus Tyson It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my account :D

@Briggs Major happy to help :)

Just installing the little bolts that hold the coils down? I believe I just started them by hand first, but you could also put a little gob of grease in your socket to hold them for you. They also make extensions that have small magnets on the end, or you could just glue a small magnet to your extension.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thank you !

@@Stevenshae77 Thanks !

That usually works, but the codes will likely still be in there as stored codes. I prefer a clean slate is all.

Wayne Garrison pull your coil pack off, vacuum or blow out the plug tubes with compressed air to remove any dirt or debris. Spray the tube with a shot of PB Blaster or any penetration oil. Let it set overnight and the next day, those puppy will slide right out. Haven't broke a plug off in 2-3 years.

Also run the engine to get it hot, plugs come right out.

2004-late 2007 3 valves have this issue...2 piece plug welded shell plug was a idiotic idea- try and remove normally, they will snap- read the TSBs. warm engine, crack loose, pour carb cleaner arond threads, let sit, back and forth at not over 30 ftlb as long as it takes...crunching/creaking/gaining 1/16 of a turn each reversal... got all out of my 06 mustang at >90k miles, but DID use the OTCcollet/support tool that actually also grips the tip, gives a tiny bit more torque-ability by helping turn the center too... thankfully didnt need the Lisle extractor(bought both expecting the worst). go slow, they can come out. if you ge a Lisle extractor, be sure it has three or four marking grooves in the shell- earlier ones with one or two groove markings were known to snap off the extractor in the plug...pulling a head off to remove that would really be upsetting!

@Biana Doubt those though were still one piece- the problem the 2 valves had was there were only three threads, and they would pretty easily strip, or work loose/blow the threads out of the heads... sad how two sequential designs had something as simple as spark plug hole coulda been so screwed up... but the three valve I swear was a planned obsolescence item- they never get swapped till out of warranty, and 'normal' removal is prettymuch guaranteed to twist off the stupid welded shell. really all these shoulda been a recall- there were so many 5.4/4.6 2 valves that had blow out issues, and probably 3/4 of the three valves ran into twist-offs... pretty pathetic how ford hid behind TSBs on both issues :(

@@AmandaVee83 ill need to try this, im dreading replacing the plugs.

Swap coil to different cylinder and see if code follows coil

Update. My valve cover gaskets were leaking causing my coil packs and spark plugs to fail. Replaced all packs and plugs as well as the upper intake gasket and valve cover gaskets. I’m pretty sure the plugs were the original and my Expedition had 194k miles on it. If that helps anyone. Now my thermostat housing cracked and I need to replace the upper intake and that’s not gonna be fun to do again. Thank you for your video and information. 💪🫡

@@AG-33- Glad you got it figured out! Sorry to hear about your series of bad luck with that thing!

Lucky!!!!!

8? Try #4

mark kouba no,! Mine was cylinder #8. These F150s are 8 cylinder engines. # 1,2,3,4 are on the passenger side of the engine #5,6,7,8 are on the driver side of the engine. #4 and #8 on on the back side of the engine. #4 is on the back passenger side and #8 is on the back driver side.

Definitely!

Well she’s my ex now and the truck is for sale 😂

Correct it’s not a perfect method but it’s your best shot with not much knowledge and just renting a scan tool. It took a while for this truck to finally throw an engine light. It also had bad spark plugs though.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy My 2004 Triton 4.6 runs fine except after a good rain or at highway speed under a slight load, so I'm sure it is a "weak" spark coil. Just need to know which one.

Yeah in addition to the bad coil, this truck also was bucking and shuttering in overdrive under light load conditions like a small hill but wasn’t throwing a light. That was fixed after doing all 8 plugs.

Yeah it’s weird but when it’s an issues related to something like this, it seems to do worse when going light on the throttle under load. This truck would run a bit better if you floored it, but you could feel it hiccuping if just cruising and you hit a small hill. This truck ended up having multiple cracked spark plugs. I’d double check all your plugs are tight, then swap around coils if needed and see if any codes pop up or switch locations.

It just seems like every time I work on a Ford in general, I have a hard time due to poor design. The 5.4 in particular has its fair share of issues from spark plugs breaking to cam phasers going out.

I can’t talk too much cause I typically fill my tank all the way and run it to damn near empty 😂 I know it’s harder on the fuel pump I just hate stopping for fuel when it’s not actually needed haha

Did you follow the video to troubleshoot?

😂😂 Tell him to watch the video and get to work haha

@@TonyTheTruckGuy lol!! Dude calls me to put his wiper blade on!

@@HUFF-N-PUFF-2023 Tell him I have videos on wiper blades as well 😂

You probably didn’t see it since it’s partially camo

It's not new! I heard a mechanic complaining about dirty older cars! You shouldn't have to do much to a new vehicle but thats what everyone works on today!

Yeah the truck sat outside a lot. I'm not a fan of pressure washing engine bays though, I've seen water cause too many issues with computers and electrical connectors.

*ignition coil*

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Pet peeve of mine.......

You can literally get your vehicle scanned for free at an auto parts store or buy a cheap scanner for like $20 on Amazon lol

Yes.

Why?

Truck wash* 😋 This truck sat outside a lot. I'm not a fan of pressure washing engine bays though. Seen too many issues with water ruining computers and getting into electrical connectors.

Pretty much lol. Made decent power for their time but just several crap designs.

As if I give a damn if “Adventures in America” watches my entire video 🤣 Never mind the 450k views, the 2,200 likes, or the 200+ other positive comments on the video. You’re a special one, aren’t you? The truck isn’t mine. Meaning the steering wheel cover isn’t mine, nor did I put it on. Shall I continue to point out how dumb you are? Perhaps we can refer to some of your automotive how-to videos for some help. Oh wait, you don’t have any! The part that really gets me is that big mouths like you act like they know what they’re doing, yet, here you are, watching MY video, cause you ain’t got a clue! 😂 Don’t watch if you’re too lazy, but also I don’t wanna hear your bitching. Typical Fordtard, angry at everything because their POS truck is broken lmfao. You got anything else you wanna say? I doubt it, there’s not much to come back from now. Amazing how you can say so much and be so wrong. Imagine bitching about a free repair video….. maybe next time just shut your big mouth and keep scrolling.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy nah, I think I'll continue to randomly pick ignorant videos such as this just to leave a comment but I do appreciate you writing a book it was very entertaining. And I don't need to work on my truck, all 736 horses run just fine kiddo. You really showed your maturity in your short story, I look forward to the next installment.

@@SG-Motorsports MY maturity? Says the guy crying about a crooked steering wheel cover on a vehicle that isn’t even theirs 😂 What a loser. There won’t be another installment, because you know I’ll win every time. Thanks for the additional comments though, it’s only helping the algorithm.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy you'll win what? The award for making a simple 60-second video into a 17 minute long video on everything unnecessary you can do and should do? Let me school you a little bit little boy, you can tell which cylinder is not firing from the driver seat and don't even have to pop the hood, don't need a stupid computer plugged into the truck either, all you need are your own two hands and basic knowledge of the vehicle. Honestly I've just come to the conclusion that this is a trolling video. Something that describes and instructs on the most ignorant and longest way to diagnose and half ass work on a vehicle. It was like watching a 4-year-old try to do an adult's job. At first I only got a few seconds in and then reading your totally amazing comment reply I went back and I had to watch it thinking, perhaps I was wrong. And I made it all the way up to the part where you were taking the plugs out and putting them in different cylinders and I didn't know if I was going to vomit or have a seizure from laughing so hard. Anyway it's been a real pleasure chatting with you again while I take my morning sh!t, I always like seeing a beginner's reaction when a professional calls them out, the outcome is almost always quite hilarious such as you have been with your comments, you certainly did not disappoint. Though I have no real description about my channel it is Automotive related and I do leave Clues from time to time on what I'm doing where and when, when possible. You might actually like my channel if you're an automotive person. I actually just got back Monday morning from the freedom Factory in Florida and before that I was in Bristol Tennessee, I stay quite busy. This afternoon I have to catch a flight to Utah and I'll be there for a week filming and then I'll be coming back home here to Texas and then leaving back out to Tennessee again close to Nashville to see an old friend to film out there and blow some sh!t up. I thought I was wrapping this up earlier but apparently I had another one to drop, like I said it's been a pleasure but I have to go currently I have some paperwork to do and then I'll be getting my day started. 😘

@@SG-Motorsports Hahaha! You’re so triggered 😂 Mind telling me how you’re gonna diagnose which cylinder is misfiring with 2 hands, no scanner, and no popping the hood? I’ll wait. Remember how you called me immature because my first comment was a “novel”? Here you are writing a book twice the size because you’re so offended 😂 I’ll win the ARGUMENT every time, KIDDO. How can I like your channel when you have ZERO content? Doesn’t bode well for being “such a pro”. Then, you feel the need to tell me multiple times in the same comment that “it’s been a real pleasure, but…” as if you aren’t going to come back for more. We both know you can’t resist. You’re too self-centered and think you’re too smart and important to just let an unread comment slide. I’ll be waiting on that tool free, hood free, cylinder misfire diag information though since you’re so pro. If anything, you’re the troll. Get a life.

That's an awfully long winded way of saying you're a brokie and your town is crappy. You can literally get scan tools for like $20 on Amazon. You don't need a $3000 one. Do you live in Madagascar or some shit? If computers are too fancy and complicated for you, I suggest getting a carbureted powered car. Whether or not you like it, this is a proper method of diagnosing. If you can't even drive the truck to a scanner due to such a severe misfire, you likely neglected the vehicle for far too long. You also bought a Ford.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Your reply is rude and inaccurate. If remote and outside the US, where Amazon does not exist, and the truck suddenly begins misfiring, how can this be diagnosed or narrowed down? Having a scanner is easy, anyone can read the codes, but there aren't any here...I never said I didn't know how to use one.

@@caribdreamin Your comment about videos like this being useless was rude, so I matched your energy. You're welcome. Once again, it's not my problem you don't live in the U.S. and don't have access to the proper tools. If the vehicle develops a misfire while driving, you limp it home or to the nearest shop. All I'm hearing are personal problems and you complaining about everything.