Hi there, I have cut down some old aerial film for my next experiment of using film as the negative. may I know where U guys hang out online to share your instant film experiments and experience?

please try it out and we can all make it better as a DIY product :)

I shall! This will be a great first project for my upcoming community darkroom. :)

thank you for the tip. will check out argon gas

Glad you think so!

thank you for dropping well. LF photography forum is my go to forum for LF stuff so happy to add a thread there on this process.

Thank U. Laurent Ete's sharing on Flickr is a very great resource. I linked to his page on my blog post too.

I did not and they look okay but I guess time will tell how would they last

Great that you have tried. You can try underexposing. You would have more unexposed silver that will diffuse over to the positive. The old type55 behaved similarly but the new55 was able to get both a good positive and negative in exposure.

@@AnaloguePT héhé thanks next batch I will try it 👍🏼 And don't stop your work & tuto !

Hi hi the positive prints can be kept after washing. If you spread the monobath on the neg without the positive it will still develop. In fact a good way to test your monobath paste.

There are some mention of the coating on the positive paper in the patents. Certainly something to look into next

The basic principle behind the diffusion transfer reversal process is the dissolution of silver halides by the fixer (thiosulfate), that are undeveloped by the developer, get reduced back to metallic silver and deposit onto the surface of the receiver sheet. But there has to be physical "nuclei" to precipitate the silver, otherwise it won't happen. Heavy metal sulfides were the first type of "nuclei" tested. Edwin Land describes on one of his patents (around 1946), using a solution of cadmium, zinc and lead acetate/nitrate, to coat the receiver sheet. Gelatin is also present in this solution, to provide a smooth surface (just like normal photographic paper emulsion). Another patent describes the receiver coating containing nickel/silver sulfide (mixed sulfide), suspension in gelatin, along with "toning" agents (by far the most obscure and hard to find class of compounds in this recipe). All I know is that they're derived from mercaptans (sulfide-contaning organic molecules). If I were you, I'd start by coating a sheet of watercolor papel with a dilute solution of nickel chloride/sulfate/nitrate (the second method, avoiding the use of lead/cadmium, but these should work as well) and gelatin. To create the active "nuclei", nickel sulfide (NiS), you'll need a solution of sulfide ions. An alternative to sodium sulfide is thioacetamide, which is safer to handle. After the nickel salt solution coat, dry, and apply a dilute solution of thioacetamide/sodium sulfide. That should slightly darken the paper, as NiS is a black insoluble compound. All of this is just based overall on the patents, I haven't tried the procedures myself, but the amounts of solutions and concentrations are not to be followed strictly, just as a guide.

@@Ryan-lc4bl that a lot of good information. one thing i found that when preparing the receiver paper, i have to fog the receiver paper in daylight first before fixing it, else the transfer won't occurs. not sure what is the chemical explanation behind this.

@@AnaloguePT Probably the fogging before fixing creates a small amount of metallic silver, that can act as the "nuclei", helping the silver halides that are dissolved by the fixer (thiosulfate) from the negative to precipitate onto the receiver, as metallic silver.

@@Ryan-lc4bl This is good information! I just found the notes I took when I was reading patents with receiver layer recipes a while back. There are various ways to make the receiving layer and the one you mentioned seems like the best path forward...

lots of variables to nail down and I hope more people will try and hep to test out the best way to do the various steps.

i wish i have tried it 10years ago when i learnt about this process. Now, I hope more people will try and help improve the DIY process.

thank you. yet to try other commercial developers. it seems to need a quick acting developer so i would search for one based on this criteria if trying.

do you think RA4 paper can be used to get color?

In a nutshell, the monobath paste also contain silver solvent that dissolved the unexposed silver and it diffuse over to the receiver sheet. Have not try RA4 or can I find anyone who has done that. Something to experiment in the future.

@@AnaloguePT Thank you for the reply. I found on google following patent information. Perhaps an interesting read on the process also. patents.google.com/patent/US2662822A/en?q=G03C8%2f28 if not mentioned by someone else.

Search in KZfaq ' lostlight art silver gelatin' you will find so someone has made an video on it. Not going to be cheap cos you still need silver nitrate or something.

@@AnaloguePT Thanks for your repply!

How about ilford HC? It is supposed to be the equivalent of Kodak hc110. But I have not try it out. The other developer I have tried is to mix it from scratch using one listed in one of the patents.

@@AnaloguePT thanks ill try it out!