On an Infiniti too

It’s only like that because the fuses a G35x will smoke you any day guaranteed

Yep, we've been wanting to revisit this for a while. Finally found the information we needed online.

bruh what r you talkinn about ! we can't even drive off properly with the fuse out. I have a G35x myself and Its hella fun driving It but cost a lott of supreme gaz when you have a heavy feet like me😅

We'll have to give that a try, thanks. Also for the intakes we live in the PNW and it rains most of the year, no issues yet.

How do you turn it back on and get rid of the warning? Just repeat the process?

lmfao wtf mystery button

How does pressing a brake pedal on the floor expose a button near the steering column ? Very confused here lmao

@@VQKYLE410 this dude lying there is no such thing

I believe he got them from concept Z performance

No issues so far with the injen intake. If you watch some of our newer videos you'll see we still have the G35 haha

You can get covers to protect the filters from moisture.

That’s the stock bumper

Its like 10k

Intake+Exhaust+Tune would be the best in my opinion. If you had to choose one, I'd say intake alone.

@@JuryRigGarage thanks bro.

To mean your g35. I hate when people call these a skyline. It's like calling a 240 a Silvia.

That's a different year than ours, definitely a lot of differences unfortunately

ItsYourBoiPatrick did you ever found out a way ?

Shouldn't affect or damage anything other than the tire wear

Holy fast reply batman

It's possible turning VDC off and pulling the brake light fuse and ETS fuse would work for you. I've read it's a bit different for older infiniti's.

Yes I have a 04 you have to pull the awd fuse under dash then pull up the center console and unplug the gsensor. Now you have full RWD and no trac control

@@J84LS21 how do you do that ?

10amp awd fuse in drivers footwell to left Pop up the center console where shifter is and disconnect G sensor that's bolted to body next to shifter. Enjoy

@@J84LS21 is there any way you can send a video to me i pulled the awd fuse already just not understanding the other part

Doubt it because it drives RWD most of the time

Im pretty sure it has an open diff

@@corvettezr1ism yup

What about the g37 x awd diff?

My understanding of the AWD system on these cars is 100% of the power goes to the rear wheels unless it notices tire slippage, then it can send as much power (up to 50%) to the wheel with the most grip. It's a pretty dynamic system.

It sends 💯% power to the rear wheels, until it noticed slippage or when it is under hard acceleration. Say your going 60mph, throw it in 3rd and go wot then the fwd assist will also kick in. It is a 60/40 split. It's only 50/50 for the first 12mph when snow mode is activated. I need to fix mine, my light went out. So I don't know if it stayed stuck in snow mode or not. I had to take that console off to run a hot wire from the cig lighter for my head unit. Think it may of kinked a wire or the connection was disconnected. Either way I don't ever need to use it. It's hard to tell when it's activated anyways. You definitely can sense it when going under hard acceleration though. You can feel the front wheels gain more traction. But it is about 200lbs heavier than a typical sedan because of the transfer case and front diff. They really are a pain in the ass to work on because it's awd. Had to fight installing the starter in that sob the cv Axles were in the way. Also a lot of ppl who have these X's don't properly maintain them. So be careful if you're thinking about getting one. I only got mine because it was a great deal. First thing I did was change the atf, transfer case fluid, front and rear diffs with fresh gear oil. What a difference that made in itself. It now shifts perfectly and you can really feel it gripping now. But I noticed I have a leak somewhere. It's atf or powersteering fluid. I either have a bad gasket or the rack and pinion system has bad seals. The outside boot also ripped on the driver side CV axle. Which was probably why the starter went to shit. It was caked in grease and atf fluid. I can't isolate the leak, but I'm pretty sure it's the rack and pinion system leaking. It's apparently been like that for a long time too. It doesn't effect the driveability of the car whatsoever. I did only pay $2,500 for it, so it is what it is. I've done a lot of work to it too. For a 16yr old car, it handles great and the performance is great as well. It really opens up in the mid to high rpm range. A fun car to drive that's for sure. It's definitely not the fastest thing on the road. But it'll hang with some really fast cars. It really shines on corners and going in and out of traffic. That's where the faster cars can't hang with this car. It's really a pretty solid built car though. Im actually impressed with it, for what it's worth. My next car will be another Infiniti. The M56 comes with a 5.6 liter 420hp V8! That thing is really fast, it can beat Charger Scat Packs and Camaro SS all day. It's the epitome of a luxury sedan sleeper. You can find them fairly cheap as well.

Why does anyone want to do burnouts?

May I ask, what fuse is the AWD fuse ? If I understand correctly “converting” this to AWD requires you to remove the stop lamp fuse as well which cuts your brake lights. I imagine they don’t drive around all summer with no brake lights. Just wondering if pulling the stop lamp fuse is even necessary

@@Ohhthatsmilly yeah you're correct, you do not have to pull the stop lamp fuse at all. Not sure what these guys were thinking? I didn't even mention that because I came here to comment on the fact that there a fuse you can pull. Here I'll provide a link to back up my assertion. The first gen awd model like mine, has the fuse located in the driver's side kick panel. You can just pull it and it disables the awd, essentially putting it in safe mode. Now I've heard that there's been instances when some ppl have claimed the front wheels moved a bit with the fuse removed on an awd dyno. Now for the 2nd gens the HR Xs there's a relay located behind the glove box. In this link this guy created an on/off switch where he could deactivate it as he wished. He always did so while the car was off of course. Again it's not a true awd system, it's just fwd assisted. Same system in the GTR. The clutch in the transfer case is only engaged magnetically when voltage is sent to it. Now if you truly wanted to get rid of it the right way. Albeit even for a few months, the proper way would be to disable it with the fuse or the glove box mod. Then remove the front driveshaft. Hell there's even a relay itself that's on the transfer case. Im sure you could even disconnect this? I'd just remove the driveshaft for safe measure. That way the front wheels would never get turned by the front diff. Im sure you could also remove the cv Axles at their joints but I don't see this being safe at all. Someone actually suggested this by the way. The front driveshaft is the only way to go. But the ultimate question is this, what's the point? You have an awd car, excuse me fwd assisted vehicle so why not use it. You're having to carry around that extra weight anyways. So you better use that extra bit of grip to your advantage. Now this is the only G35 I've owned. So I'm not sure how easy it is to break the rear end loose on a RWD. Take my old 300zx for example, it was a 5 speed. But it'd easily break the tires loose, and my friend had the NA and it was the same those had 220hp, the TT 320hp. If you dumped that clutch and floored it,those tires were definitely spinning. You had to be careful on turns especially with the TT it had HiCas rear steering. It would oversteer a lot and fish tale so easily. Im not sure if the G is similar or not since it's more touring oriented. But the awd model is planted. You can definitely feel it grip the road and accelerate. It feels safer and your confident in it's handling abilities that's for sure. Hell and this is a 16yr old car, with 209k miles and a worn out suspension. I've owned quite a few cars over the yrs. 300zxTT, 3rd Gen Maxima SE, 04 Eclipse GTS, 02 Lincoln LS, 02 Z28 Camaro, 10 Altima, 95 BMW M3, etc. None ever handled as good as this car does at 16yrs old. I could only imagine how great it felt when new! Of course it's bumpy af because I desperately need new suspension. So I always drive with the vdc disabled it helps a lot. With it bouncing around sometimes on the highway, that's when the front wheels always kick in. You can feel it too, especially if the highway is really bad. It'll bounce and you'll feel the front wheel catch and it'll pull you out and correct itself. It's actually pretty ingenious tech, that was a first of its kind and way ahead of its time. It's still working 16yrs later and 209k original miles. So that's saying something. I didn't notice too much metal shavings in the transfer case fluid when I changed it. The real wear is in the diffs, mainly the rear diff. They have magnetic drain plugs and that rear one was full of shavings. Which is likely atleast 10yrs worth, no telling how long it had been since it was changed.

@@nowimhigh did you read the title? They did it to do burnouts and spin the wheels. He literally said it’s for fun they’re not doing this for daily driving. People should read before they post rant essays 🤦‍♂️

Should be able to get 200k out of these cars with routine maintenance. They're fairly reliable.

Marco Franchetti I’ve got 156,000 on my 2013 g37sedan awd with no problems. It’s been a solid car

2008 here. Just hit 190,xxx. Still runs strong.

215,000 miles on 2005 fx35 and still runs like a dream

How did u get ur camera to stay on like that

There might be a way to do it in a Honda, might need to look into some Honda facebook groups

Yes it does but only spins the front.. u pull the awd fuse, which then allows you to put the vehicle on a 2wd dyno

@@theusefulidiot4202 Thank you I wish the Ridgeline, pilot and accord came with a RWD option like the S2000

Pretty much every trim level might have some differences. RWD will make this easier. I would try disabling VDC, put it in first gear, push the brakes all the way and mash the gas. If the engine kills power then you might need to disable the reverse lights like we did. It's my understanding that the car will cut power when the brake pedal is applied, that's why the fuse needs to be pulled.

Jury Rig Garage thx for letting me know

Dude your cars already red so no need you just got to check your blinker fluid

We'll have to test that. We kept it in drive because after the brake fuse is pulled we can't change gears from park to drive. Might work with neutral, pull fuse, then put in drive

@@JuryRigGarage yea cause you don’t need to press the break to put it from neutral to drive u can just throw it back

The G35 has DC Sports headers, ISR test pipes and ARK Performance GRiP catback exhaust. We have an installation video on our channel with links to them if you're interested!

thanks

Not like competitively haha,. It's always fun to take your car to the track and see what it can do and improve on it

Maintenance lights come on when you disable VDC and the AWD system like we did in the video. They will clear up once you re-enable them. Also there’s a check engine light because of the cat delete, a tuner can remove it.

False i have a AWD and they don’t come on stop capping dude

You have to consider pretty much every variant of the G35 and 350z have different methods for completely disabling VDC. This is specifically for the 2008 G35xS journey model.

That's a good point, we'll have to give that a try next time

Like stick the in the hoe right ? So I don’t have to go underneath everytime ?

lol smmh

Gotta do what you gotta do haha. It'll be much simpler once the switch is in place.

literally