Glad it was helpful!

Im happy it was helpful

glad it was useful

Im glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching! I thought I would save 1 sheet of paper :-)

hahaha....glad you enjoyed it!

Its not difficult once you understand the basic principle :-) and your bending will be very precise

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Glad you liked it!!

De nada!

Awesome, thank you! Glad you liked it!

You are welcome

Im glad it was useful Rodolfo

Thank you....glad it was.

You're welcome!

Glad you liked it!

You are welcome!

Thanks for the tip...it totally makes sense!

Tnx note the math doesn't calculate the depht off the cut

I wasn't aware that the layers of ply stretch at all. However, now that I think about it, it makes total sense. Steam or hot water also works to avoid breaks. Also, I hear tell from someone who's done this for 50 years that adding liquid fabric softener (like for clothing) to the hot water makes bending even easier.

Im glad it was useful

Im glad it was!

Glad to help!

Glad you liked it hahahaha

Haha....yes....I realised this as I was editing the video. Good spot!

i was searchin the comment section just to see if someone else noticed😂

hahaha....yes yes...well spotted. The fact is that the difference with one groove will be negligible. It is only a 5% error when Im quite certain the error on my hand saw is higher :-)

@@OneTimeBuildswell it was no big misstake tho i was just curious n ur vid was actually really really helpful🙌

Hiya, I am having trouble understanding this. Could you possibly try and explain it better? "plus (half of) the two outer cuts, which comes to 105.4mm"- i dont quite understand this part and the last part. Thank you so much!

Thats an easy fix....dont watch it!

Happy it was useful!

hahaha....it does....even when its only a bit of math and a piece of wood

Glad you liked it!

I would say for most applications if you are an experienced carpenter, you dont need the math. But in all honestly, the math makes it all the more beautiful :-)

@@OneTimeBuilds i hate math for not understanding. I LOVE math when i do get it. In this case, it takes a lot of guess work out. I’m still trying to debate what type of wood! 😆

Glad to hear that!

absolutely! the only key aspect is how deep the cut should be.

Glad it was useful!

You are welcome

hahaha....you always learn something new!

Thank you!

I use regular wood glue....but I have seen people using expanding glue to fill the gaps

@@OneTimeBuilds Yeah, that’s why I asked. Thanks

Thanks Steven!

I have done ply with the inside as the smooth side... but that bend makes the ply more likely to break. I suggest using steam or damp to facilitate the bend and the fill the outside gaps.

@@OneTimeBuildsThanks for the idea. Its MDF and the radiuses vary, I will think about filling gaps too, it will require some experimenting (:👍

Thats an interesting idea!

@@OneTimeBuilds Presently what we do now is make a rectangle shet a plywood with a mitre on one side Set the appropriate taper and cut all 8 sides assemble and re adjust the angle Simple it works but would be curious if there's a way to do it with math

You are welcome.

Welcome and I hope it was helpful!

Thanks! I always use standard wood glue and then fill the gaps (if any) with wood filler (or saw dust mixed with wood glue), but I guess expanding glue would do a good job also!

Hi Kurt! Thanks for your question. I try to cut in the middle, but I think cutting consistently in one side or the other will not make much of a difference.

Yes!! that is a great observation. A couple of comments below someone else wanted to bend in a cone shape and got indeed equal number of kerfs for both ends.

I would suggest to cut less deep then. Depending on wood type, the stress of the bend might want to snap the wood.

Did you put HOT water with fabric softener in it? Soak it it with the hot water(spray bottle), wait a few and it should bend for you!

Hi Attila, thanks for your comment. Im using a simple battery powered small circular saw. In particular Im using this model: www.praxis.nl/gereedschap-installatiemateriaal/elektrisch-gereedschap/zaagmachines/cirkelzagen/worx-handcirkelzaag-wx523-20v/5358900?channable=02490e696400353335383930307c&gclid=CjwKCAiAi_D_BRApEiwASslbJ2VPj_YTx9tdviHMJF2tdM6-J_BWoO4X4FygyCSoPjgeEi5YJMm70hoCacUQAvD_BwE

@@OneTimeBuilds Thank you so much for your kind help. :) this is the best kerf calculating video. Do more :) Regards from Budapest!

Thank you! I made another similar one on calculating angles for joining boards :-) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kL9xq8aGrdy1hYU.html

@@OneTimeBuilds This is awesome to! :) In case of cutting kerf on plywood I noticed that if we cut the wood more densely with a thin blade, the arc on the outer perimeter of the wood is much smoother. Not as square in outside as cutting with a wide blade.

@@attilasipeki1418 Yes, that is absolutely true! The thinner the blade, the smoother the curve!

I dont think so. The issue is not the angle but the length of the material that jas to be removed

Mdf will be a difficult material because its built out of compacted layers. When you cut and the resulting material is too thin, it will want to break. Maybe try making the mdf slightly damp?

Thank you. When something doesn't work it's often difficult to sort out what's wrong. Thinking about it from your answer, I realize the video bending mdf was not a 180 or 360 radius. The videos accomplishing such bends are all using plywood. I will either have to use plywood, or cut circles using router and glue together.

Thanks

Thanks for noticing! Other ppl also spotted the mistake. The introduced error with one extra or missing cut is however very small. Id say less than 5% which is probably lower than the overall error :-)

Good spot! two other people also spotted the error :-)

That's interesting. I was thinking that too but,,,, thinking of it as a clock face,,, with 60 segments and 60 markers on the outside (noting the curve is only on the outside, it's sixty straight lines on the inside) and let's say the circumference was exactly 60 cm\600mm to get a smooth looking curve you'd want 60 grooves cut at the centre of each minute section. For a ¼ circle you'd want 15 grooves but the the curve (the first groove) would actually start at 'half a minute' into the curve, the last would be 'half a minute' before the end. ! I got myself confused writing that but I think I understand it now! I hope you follow :) ____________________

;) btw and amazingly you don't need to calculate the internal and external circumferences. It's the thickness of the wood x2 ÷ 4(in this case of 90°*) x π * e.g. for 60° it'd be ÷ 6 12mm x 2 x π ÷ 4 ,,,,, 18.85 500 x 2 x π ÷ 4 ,,,,, 785.39 488 x 2 x π ÷ 4 ,,,,, 766.54 ,,,, difference 18.85 __________________ ;) Here's a great little bit of mental arithmetic if you want to have fun with somebody on a long car journey(and I had to have it explained to me,,, and I still wanted to see it on paper before I believed it) The earth's diameter is 12,000km There is a piece of rope tied right around it. The rope needs to be raised by ½ metre along its entire length. How much extra rope do you need to order?

hahaha.....that is indeed a beautiful car journey challenge :-) The answer, I believe, is π meters.

You are welcome!

Plywood :-)

@@OneTimeBuilds Thank you, but i want to know if is pine, oak, ? Thank you

ahh!!! it is Birch. It is a very common material in The Netherlands. Hope that helps!

I guess on a table saw you can make a rig that is exactly 5.8 and use it as reference

@@OneTimeBuilds I guess my problem is that I'm not visualizing a solution. You have a strip of plywood x units in length. You have to slide said piece of wood down after each kerf. Which to me means that the space either left or right of the blade will get either larger or smaller meaning something has to move. Only thing that I could imagine is alike a finger joint jig where you slide the previously cut kerf onto some sort of reference point.

mmmm.... you can make a rig with kerfs of the right spacing... then you put the blade of the table saw in kerf 7 (or whatever number you are on) and fix the guide to the end of your rig. The next kerf, you use kerf 8 and repeat. The key of course is to build an accurate rig. You could also 3D print one with 20 kerfs or so :-)

I would work on any wood. The depth of the cut depends on how hard the wood is. For plywood I cut 80 to 90 %.

thnx i will try this... one more thing, i tried to find a staining video on your channel for all those colorful venears you have, but could not find one... i would love to learn how to make those as well... thnx again

It is 91.1 :-) Sorry about my horrible hand writing.

@@OneTimeBuilds got it

That is the outside radius of your piece

Yes...well spotted. I made the mistake but decided not to redo the entire video. The error is around 5% overall (1 over 20) and your blade and measuring is likely to introduce a larger error

yes it will. The thing to consider is how deep to cut depending on the stiffness of the wood

I typically do around 90%, but it depends a bit on the material and how flexible it is. But generally, if the wood is 10mm thick, I would do 9mm cut and leave the last hardwood layer intact.

@@OneTimeBuilds thank you so very much. Great tutorial

@@MrBrewsk Great that it was helpful!

You need to use the width of the gap at the surface. In a saw blade the width is more or less the same, in a cone cut the width will be biggest at the surface, so that should be your saw cut size. Hope it helps!

thanks for your answer. Unfortunately, with the cone drill bit it is different. although eliminating exactly the excess material R- and obtain the exact pieces, removing more from the other end, the final diameter is not what was expected. What I would like to know is if with the data I am going to give you you could do the exact calculations. For 180 degrees: R+ 10cm R- 7.4cm wood thickness 2.6cm 1mm conical router bit and the other end 4.5mm at 25mm depth. R+ = 6.28x100=628/2=314mm R- = 6.28x74=232.36/2=116.18mm R+ - R- = 197.82mm (198 material removed) 198mm/4.5mm router bit = 44 cuts 314-198=116mm/43 pieces=2.7mm Please where is the error and how can I fix it?

@@user-mc8sf4rk7u Mmmm ....let me check it.... maybe it will be easier by email.

@@user-mc8sf4rk7u ok.....the first error I see is that 6.28x74 is 464.....so half of that is 232.... but you are dividing by two again, which is wrong. Hope that helps.

Absolutely! There will be some limits based on the wood and radius, but it can be done.

I have tried a cone shape bending before and your thinking is along the same lines. The biggest challenge is that the number of kerfs needs to be the same for both ends (because the kerfs need to meet) but the larger radius would need thicker kerfs. My cone kerf was not 100 percent successful though. Id say the best approach would be to calculate the kerfs needed for both, then use the result that gives the largest number of kerfs. You then space the marking of the kerfs on both ends and connect the lines, which will have a cone shape. Good luck with it!

@@OneTimeBuilds Again many thanks for your prompt reply. I like to show you the math, because for one reason or another even though the top and bottom radii are not the same, the amount of material that is required to be removed ended up being the same!! Known factors; material thickness 19mm Cone height 400mm Top radius. R. 100mm Small radius r. 81mm Bottom radius R. 200 mm Small radius. r. 181mm Saw blade thickness. 3mm Top kerfing calculations Big radius. 0.25X2X3.14X100=157- Small radius. 0.25X2x3.14X81=. 127 30mm 30mm, material to be removed at top radius Bottom kerfing calculations Big radius. 0.25X2X3.14xX200=314- Small radius. 0.25X2X3.24X181=. 284 30mm 30mm, material to be removed from bottom radius 30mm divide by 3mm (blade thickness)= 10 Need to cut 10 saw kerfs along top radius of 157mm and 10 saw kerfs along bottom radius of314mm Top radius 157 less 30=127 total space between kerfs, so 127 divided by 10=12.7 approx. spacing between kerfs at top radius Bottom radius 314 less 30=284 total space between kerfs, so divide 284 by 10= 28.4 approx. spacing between kerfs at bottom radius This is obvious that the kerfs will be at an angle Just have to come up will the formula to figure out the angle. Your input and/or review will be much appreciated Thanks

@@kathleenbonello679 it seems about right. No need for a formula for the angle, just connect kerf 1 top with 1 bottom, 2 top with 2 bottom etc. The cuts connect the marks at the top and the bottom.

@@kathleenbonello679 one more tip....the middle kerf will always be perpendicular to your top and bottom borders....so you use that one to draw and connect the rest so you dont need an angle

@@OneTimeBuilds Thanks for your input. Looking forward to actually trying on some material, but it won’t be for a couple of weeks

Sorry to hear you failed....but we all fail the first time. 3mm is very thin, so you will have to be extra precise to bend without breaking. It is important to know your blade thickness and the desired radius. I think a radius smaller than 10cm would be a challenge :-)

You can totally wing it with a bit of experience.... but Im sucker for math and wanted to figure this out.....is it an overkill? .... yes....most likely it is.....is it beautiful and exact? .... yes....yes it is hahaha

Yes, you can simplify the formulas for a much faster calculation, but the point was to explain how to derive the formulas :-) not the final formula itself

Thank you!

It is a very important component XD

@@OneTimeBuilds From the way you do calculation you should be a mathematician bro. You make me remember the genius mathematician Leonhard Euler He used to wear hat as well . You must have something in common . Cheers ...:)

That is awesome!

Thank you!

yes!

At the end of the video I show a piece with the exact calculations I made

It depends on your saw blade. A table saw will be 4mm, the ones I use are pretty thin (I have some that are less than 1mm).

Yes! the circumference of a circle is also its perimeter hahaha Thanks for pointing this out!

I think you can just plug the eagles in place ans nothing changes :-)

Yes....I made that mistake and someone spotted a few hundred comments below. Good catch. Overall however, 1 space in 20 is only a 5% error :-)

@@OneTimeBuilds indeed, the error it's minor.. That wasn't my point 😁 you could get away with a 1 cut less or 1 more than the exact number.. Wood is very forgiving and flexible 😉 Especially if you wet the outside of the plywood in order to achieve a smooth bending, without any cracks or high spots (which happens when using a 4mm circular saw blade)

@@_777Z Yes....you are totally right!