I guess my editing skills are not as good as my modeling skills

So many people have music on when describing something. It is so pointless. If they were singing their description it would be a different issue.

Maybe I should try a musical explanation :-)

That is the outside radius of your piece

It depends on your saw blade. A table saw will be 4mm, the ones I use are pretty thin (I have some that are less than 1mm).

XDDDDD Math is not for everyone :-)

Sure.... send me a dm in instagram @dr.isaac.esteban and Ill send you my email

This one had no feet! It was designed to not rest on the roof.

@@OneTimeBuilds Looking at the rack in the close ups (and not on my phone) I can see that this is designed differently from the ones with the feet. Very cool! Great project!

Thank you.

🤣🤣🤣 there are many ways to things in life, I just happen to like exact ones. But you are right.... if you wing it a cuople.of times, you will be able to do this with your instincts and experience. Or... you can 3D print a tool like I did (see my other video)

wow....it ripped the glass or the material on top of the glass?

@@OneTimeBuilds Hey!, It ripped off a thin layer of glass and the glass was stuck to the part. This used to happen to me often until I learned that you can't print PETG on glass but this was PLA+. I ended up freezing the part and then tapping the glass to shatter it further and get it off the part. Luckily I can still use half the bed right now to finish some parts, I have a magnetic removable bed in the mail which I'll have tomorrow to try out. Worst case if that sucks I just get another glass bed for $20.

@@fc3sbob Yeah...I have used magnetic beds and they are a pain to calibrate and get the print to stick properly hahaha

@@OneTimeBuilds haha, we'll see about the calibration. I'm running Klipper on a Ender 3 V2 with a BLtouch so it shouldn't be a huge issue. I'll have to dial in my Z height as well.

@@fc3sbob hahaha....I have the exact same setup.... for me getting the part to stuck was a pain....this is why I moved to glass only. Hope you have better luck than I had.

You need to use the width of the gap at the surface. In a saw blade the width is more or less the same, in a cone cut the width will be biggest at the surface, so that should be your saw cut size. Hope it helps!

thanks for your answer. Unfortunately, with the cone drill bit it is different. although eliminating exactly the excess material R- and obtain the exact pieces, removing more from the other end, the final diameter is not what was expected. What I would like to know is if with the data I am going to give you you could do the exact calculations. For 180 degrees: R+ 10cm R- 7.4cm wood thickness 2.6cm 1mm conical router bit and the other end 4.5mm at 25mm depth. R+ = 6.28x100=628/2=314mm R- = 6.28x74=232.36/2=116.18mm R+ - R- = 197.82mm (198 material removed) 198mm/4.5mm router bit = 44 cuts 314-198=116mm/43 pieces=2.7mm Please where is the error and how can I fix it?

@@user-mc8sf4rk7u Mmmm ....let me check it.... maybe it will be easier by email.

@@user-mc8sf4rk7u ok.....the first error I see is that 6.28x74 is 464.....so half of that is 232.... but you are dividing by two again, which is wrong. Hope that helps.

You can totally wing it with a bit of experience.... but Im sucker for math and wanted to figure this out.....is it an overkill? .... yes....most likely it is.....is it beautiful and exact? .... yes....yes it is hahaha

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

🤣🤣🤣🤣

Happy it was useful!

Good intuition and experience will definitely help....but math never lies 😉

It does right?

I have done ply with the inside as the smooth side... but that bend makes the ply more likely to break. I suggest using steam or damp to facilitate the bend and the fill the outside gaps.

@@OneTimeBuildsThanks for the idea. Its MDF and the radiuses vary, I will think about filling gaps too, it will require some experimenting (:👍

Mdf will be a difficult material because its built out of compacted layers. When you cut and the resulting material is too thin, it will want to break. Maybe try making the mdf slightly damp?

Thank you. When something doesn't work it's often difficult to sort out what's wrong. Thinking about it from your answer, I realize the video bending mdf was not a 180 or 360 radius. The videos accomplishing such bends are all using plywood. I will either have to use plywood, or cut circles using router and glue together.

True....not easy to find here though

You are welcome

Thank you for your kind words...Im happy that you found it useful

Im glad it was useful

It was bought from minicooperworld in The Netherlands

Yeah....a bit or an old school look :-)

Im glad it was useful Rodolfo

Thank you!

Yes...well spotted. I made the mistake but decided not to redo the entire video. The error is around 5% overall (1 over 20) and your blade and measuring is likely to introduce a larger error

Yes!! that is a great observation. A couple of comments below someone else wanted to bend in a cone shape and got indeed equal number of kerfs for both ends.

I have tried a cone shape bending before and your thinking is along the same lines. The biggest challenge is that the number of kerfs needs to be the same for both ends (because the kerfs need to meet) but the larger radius would need thicker kerfs. My cone kerf was not 100 percent successful though. Id say the best approach would be to calculate the kerfs needed for both, then use the result that gives the largest number of kerfs. You then space the marking of the kerfs on both ends and connect the lines, which will have a cone shape. Good luck with it!

@@OneTimeBuilds Again many thanks for your prompt reply. I like to show you the math, because for one reason or another even though the top and bottom radii are not the same, the amount of material that is required to be removed ended up being the same!! Known factors; material thickness 19mm Cone height 400mm Top radius. R. 100mm Small radius r. 81mm Bottom radius R. 200 mm Small radius. r. 181mm Saw blade thickness. 3mm Top kerfing calculations Big radius. 0.25X2X3.14X100=157- Small radius. 0.25X2x3.14X81=. 127 30mm 30mm, material to be removed at top radius Bottom kerfing calculations Big radius. 0.25X2X3.14xX200=314- Small radius. 0.25X2X3.24X181=. 284 30mm 30mm, material to be removed from bottom radius 30mm divide by 3mm (blade thickness)= 10 Need to cut 10 saw kerfs along top radius of 157mm and 10 saw kerfs along bottom radius of314mm Top radius 157 less 30=127 total space between kerfs, so 127 divided by 10=12.7 approx. spacing between kerfs at top radius Bottom radius 314 less 30=284 total space between kerfs, so divide 284 by 10= 28.4 approx. spacing between kerfs at bottom radius This is obvious that the kerfs will be at an angle Just have to come up will the formula to figure out the angle. Your input and/or review will be much appreciated Thanks

@@kathleenbonello679 it seems about right. No need for a formula for the angle, just connect kerf 1 top with 1 bottom, 2 top with 2 bottom etc. The cuts connect the marks at the top and the bottom.

@@kathleenbonello679 one more tip....the middle kerf will always be perpendicular to your top and bottom borders....so you use that one to draw and connect the rest so you dont need an angle

@@OneTimeBuilds Thanks for your input. Looking forward to actually trying on some material, but it won’t be for a couple of weeks