I have just purchased the etching kit and I am going to go and have a play x

+Jen I wondered the same thing. It seems more complicated than just using something like contact paper (shelf liner with adhesive back).

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Almost certainly it will contain HF - HydroFluoric Acid. 'Potent' is putting it mildly - Google [HF MSDS] for the safety considerations. In industrial applications, education and laboratories it is handled with extreme care - apron, goggles, visor, thick certified rubber gloves, fume cupboard ... At home, it is happily used in sink cleaners ! Use in plastic bowl in sink with window open. Keep gloves on when removing stencil - some cream may have seeped underneath. Wash all tools and your artwork very thoroughly before removing gloves. Preferably use separate tools just for etching. Highly recommend getting HF Antidote Gel (Calcium Gluconate) £15 from Amazon, for immediate application to the skin if you accidentally get some on your skin. HF dissolves calcium out of the bones ! Seek medical attention immediately if you don't have the antidote yourself. Safe disposal is a problem - flush with huge quantities of water. May corrode ceramic drains. Don't bin the old jar of cream in the trash - your Fire Department may have HazChem disposal facilities ?

Thanks :-)

Just a guess, but it would most likely come off in the washer. It would probably last longer if you washed it by hand *edit* I meant vinyl on the mug, not the etched glass

This is the hard way i use carbon paper

Yes you can. Clean off the stencil cream well, leave the stencil on & you can use Americana acrylic paint etc with a brush or stencil brush.

To add color to your etching, you can use Rub N Buff over the etching. It adheres to the porous etching and you can just wipe the excess off the area around the etching. It comes in many colors.

I was wondering why you used invisible vinyl, but then when you were squeezing out the bubbles from beneath it, an opaque vinyl would hide bubbles. Maybe a very light-coloured transparent vinyl would help ? The stickiness will be important - less sticking to the original backing paper < more stickiness of the top to the 'transfer film' < most stickiness of all to the glass.

OK, thanks. I guess that extra layer on top is just to help smooth and secure the cut stencil extra well when sticking it down then? IDK, just seems a bit unnecessary.

Thank you. I understand now.

The contact paper doesnt stick as firmly, the vinyl really helps to make sure there arent any little leaks under the edges

I have the original silhouette before the rest come out