Glad it helped my friend. Good luck and best wishes to you and your family Sir. ATB, Des

I find that it's easier to remove excess bonding from backboxes after it has set. Just a quick go with a knife does the trick.

Much appreciated! Thanks very much. Des

No worries, I have just used easi fill 60 on the chases, about 25/30mm deep and they went off after one application.@@21stcenturycaveman33

My pleasure! Des

My pleasure! Best wishes, Des

My pleasure buddy. ATB, Des

Good point that. Sometimes it's easy to miss the simple things. ATB, Des

Honestly every electrician worth their weight in salt has a screw hole tap that they’ll just tap through the plaster. It’s not that big of a deal I see it all the time

No problem 👍 If you dont pva before plastering the existing dry wall will suck out moisture from your new plaster causing it to shrink and crack. Des

...great tip!

You are very welcome my friend. Best wishes, Des

My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it my friend. Des

Very kind of you. many thanks. Des

Thank you Sir. Des

Thank you! Cheers!

PVA tends to clog the spray nozzle.

I use an old red sauce squeeze bottle. Works perfectly.

Thank you kindly. ATB, Des

Thank you very much! Des

Excellent response my friend. Thanks for dropping by and for taking the time to watch and comment. Best wishes, Des

My pleasure. Hope it helps. Have a great day where you are. Des

My pleasure. Des

My pleasure. Des

That would work great also. Best wishes, Des

You don't need to do that any Spark worth his salt will have a thread cutter to ream out the lugs if necessary

Paul Marshall and any plasterer worth his would clean out the boxes while it’s still wet. Two second job that saves filling broken bits around the edges.

Very kind of you. Thanks very much. Best wishes, Des

So How Is Work Getting On With You May I ask?

All good thank you my friend. Best wishes, Des

My pleasure! Thanks for taking the time to watch. Des

You're very welcome my friend. ATB, Des

Interesting point that. Most electricians won't repair the plaster work but they can normally recommend someone who can. Whilst it may be inconvenient that the electrician can't do the plaster work as well I think it's actually a bonus. I've seen so many electricians attempt to 'make good' the plaster work and make a complete mess of it. If I were you I would keep them well away from plaster and stick to electrics which is what they know best. Just my thoughts mate. Take care, Des

Hi there. Yes, they would work but simply not practical or cost effective for the DIY'er when you can just use a brush, roller or cheapo spray bottle purchased for a couple of quid. Best wishes, Des

Hi there. If it were me I would make sure that the metal nuts are wrapped well in duck tape to prevent corrosion. That should do it imo. ATB, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks...yes I had wondered about the potential corrosion possibility. On the other hand I'd also thought the presence of the new metal nuts might alert a future engineer's scanner should similar work was ever needed. But hopefully a scanner would 'hear' through both the new plaster and the duck tape.

Hi buddy. This may or may not be necessary depending upon how you're going to finish off the wall. 1. If you're going to skim the walls then no point whatsoever. Just fill in with Bonding plaster, flatten and lightly score surface ready for skim coat. Job done. 2. If papering or painting then it is absolutely necessary. Only by applying a lighter, top coat plaster will you be able to get a nice smooth and flat surface which cannot be achieved using the bonding plaster on it's own. Basically, reducing the plaster chase allows you to put a thin layer of a much finer top coat plaster (the Easifill) to finish off the chase. This plaster is very easy to work and will give a lovely smooth finish with a wet trowel. It is also very easy to sand with a fine grit paper to get it really flat and smooth to reduce lumps and bumps which will clearly show where the chase has been repaired. Hope this makes sense. Any further queries please get back to me. Des

Hiya buddy. Apologies for delay in responding. It's not mandatory here in the UK but it's best practice. ATB, Des

PVC capping is so inexpensive, you might as well install it.

Sound advice for sure. Thank you and best wishes, Des

That what i do. Got a bag full of 2nd hand white stuff and I use them on each job. Those painters...

Thanks Graham. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. ATB, Des

Hi there. The same method would work absolutely fine. Best, Des

Just wait till it goes tacky and then apply Bonding plaster. If it dries up straight away then apply another coat as the wall is very dry. Hope that helps and thanks for watching my friend. Des

U can do it when tacky but better when completely dry plaster can slide off if pva is still wet in places

Stick a blob of pva straight in with the plaster or cement mix, works just as well and is easier to do

Thanks very much. Best wishes, Des

Lol 👍

He does well for being a DIYer good work Des 👍

So nice of you. Best wishes, Des

It's owner for me you reply smooth 🙏GOD BLESS YOU Pakistan+Uk Explorer ❤️🥰 I'm begginer soon catch you in Sha ALLAH 🙏

Subscribed to your channel my friend. Best wishes to you and your family Sir. Des

Thanks a lot

Definitely not. No point whatsoever. Hope this helps. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 good video, much appreciated and the answer to the question that I was wondering too 👍

Hi there and thank you very much for your kind words. Please see part 2. Easifill / polyfilla is not strong enough to fill the chases. It should only be used as a top coat / finishing coat to give a nice smooth and flush finish. Quite apart from that, it would be an extremely expensive way of filling in chases with an unsuitable finishing plaster. Hope that helps, Des

Hello there and thanks for dropping by. Just plaster patching - not skimming all the walls or I wouldn't have bothered to spend so much time with the finishing plaster. I would simply have filled the chases with Bonding plaster, scored these and skimmed over with Multifinish. Hope this helps. Des

Hi, you need to take it back @3mm so when you apply the plaster finish plaster coat you can get it as flush as possible with the surrounding wall and you can smooth it out nicely. If you don't then you will have a bulge where the final plaster has been applied. Hope this makes sense. Des (if you just try and use the one plaster, i.e. the backing plaster, to fill in the recesses and level it off with surrounding wall you will find that the finish is too rough and you will notice it under the backing paper)

Don't you need to put mesh tape over the joins then top coat to avoid cracks?

Hi there. You could secure them with some clout nails (large head will keep them in place). You could also use cable ties to keep wires together and secure them using nails mentioned. Make sure all nails are galvanised to prevent rust coming through and obviously don't puncture wires! Take care Des

Not a stupid question at all. Do NOT let the PVA dry. Apply the plaster when it is TACKY (I.e. when it gets sticky to the touch). Reason? This creates a better 'chemical' bond between new and old surface. ATB, Des

Hiya buddy. If you're on a normal plaster background then do it on the SAME day. Do not leave 24hrs unless youre going over a very shiny, moisture repellent background, such as, walls or ceilings painted with a shiny, slippery paint like vinyl silk. This is because the nature of this sort of finish is to wipe over and it will take hourse for pva to soak in and get a proper bond. So .... 1. Apply first good coat of pva consistency like milk. If it soaks in and dries quickly eg 5-15 mins then suction is high any you need a second coat of pva to control suction or the old plaster will suck moisture from new plaster, cause it to dry out, become weak and potentially crack. 2. Apply 2nd coat when first starts to dry but not when bone dry. 2nd coat will also gi e you more time to work plaster before it starts to set. 3. Important: do NOT let 2nd coat dry out before plastering. Apply plaster when tacky so both eventually dries out together givong much stronger bond 4. Do filler plasternext day or later but apply pva again in above manner to control suction. Plaster as required and sand accordingly. Best wishes, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Wow thanks mate! That helps a lot! Awesome channel Des, keep up the great work! much appreciated!

Hi again Des, I have got also some missing bits of plaster around the sockets backbox holes where the sparky didn't quite cut straight. Can I use bonding plaster to replace the missing gaps to rebuild the square holes up again? It's not all the sockets but a few have some gaps missing going alone the straight edges of the back box opening. I was thinking of dabbing pva in these gaps and then pushing bonding upwards to fill the gaps with a small filling knife to force the plaster to fill, then shave off proud bits from the front of the wall where the socket hole is so that the plaster is flush and then go over with filler next day/sand when dry, not sure if i have to wait for it to go off then shave it off proud with a trowel/scraper edge. With the PVA, if I got a plastic cup, filled one cup of pva and three cups of water, whisk it together. The room had been replastered but obviously the plasterer didn't or couldn't fill along these gaps due to poor chasing, most are good and square but just a few where the brick work got small chunks taken out so couldn't get the back box openings nice and square. The suction I have been told is high on the backgrounds i have in my house. Cheers!

@@adamdavidkenyon6664 Hiya buddy. Sorry fopr late reply - been very busy. Definitely use Bonding plaster to fill in the gaps / holes and push in using fine blade as you have suggested. Doesn't really matter if you shave back when wet or dry but probably best when a little firmer - your choice really. Then build up with finishing plaster when dry and sand if necessary. Sounds like you're getting the hang of this and understanding the process which is great. Only difference though is make PVA a little bit weaker on high suction background - 4 or 5:1 AND don't electrocute yourself! Best wishes, des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Heya mate, sorry for the very late reply! Been very busy! I really appreciate all your help and thanks for the answers. I bought some Thistle Undercoat plaster from Toolstation and some Everbuild bond PVA from Amazon. Got an old chase in my kitchen unused so will practice on that first. Haha will try not to electrocute myself! Best wishes Adam

Hi there. Yep, the PVA needs to go on before the Bonding plaster as it controls the suction on the blocks. If suction is too high, the blocks will act like a sponge and suck moisture from the plaster causing it to dry out, shrink and crack - worst case scenario it may fall off the wall due to weak bond. You might be OK if it was quite a wet mix. Hope it works out for you. If it goes pear-shaped you will need to scrape off and start again. Hopefully, that won't be necessary. ATB, Des

21st Century Caveman thank you for the reply. I did clean the chase out before applying the bonding and also with a brush applied water on the surface also. For next time if I pva does it need to be a really weak mix and how long should I wait until I apply the bonding mix. Thank you again and appreciate you channel it’s fantastic

@@matts5460 use an old red sauce squeeze bottle and fill with some PVA and water and give it a good old shake. Squirt into the chase and it'll basically do the job itself by soaking into the masonry. Much quicker than dipping the brush in a tin every 5 seconds. Rinse out the bottle for reuse.

Personally I never one coat chases, always two. Let the first coat take the cracks, second fills, scrape back your face and edges, then when ready skim away

Yes - always. ATB, Des

No you use scrim tape

Hi there buddy. I really don't think that will work at all. The mix wuld have to be very weak and therefore not effective. Although, I don't plaster for a living I've also never seen anybody else do it either which does it for me. So ..... brush or roller buddy. ATB, Des

Use an old red sauce or brown sauce squeeze bottle. If those can squirt out so can a mix of PVA and water.

Hi there, this is covered in the video. This allows you to complete that job using a much finer finishing plaster which will be nice and smooth and better blend in with the surrounding plaster. The Bonding plaster used to fill the hole will not give a 'finished' appearance and this is not it's job - it's a heavy duty filler only. However, it is only necessary to take back the backing plaster below the depth of the surrounding wall if you intend painting or papering the wall when everything has dried out. If you're simply going to skim the surface with plaster then no need to bother - there would be no point. Hope this makes sense. Des

Hello there. It most definitely would and I have uploaded vids on this. Please check them out. It'll work a treat. Best wishes, Des

Can it also be sanded down?

Hi there. I can absolutely assure you that multiple layers are not required unless the cavity is very deep in which case you're probably better off using something like sand and cement (i.e. mortar) which is inherently stronger. Providing it's a thick mix and not too watery to make it slump you'll be absolutely fine. It may just take a little longer to dry out if it's a thicker application. Don't fret. It'll be fine. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks mate. Much appreciated. Enjoying the videos!

Thanks for this. Gave me the confidence to have a go and it turned out ok.

Hello there and thanks for your query. Definitely not my friend. This is for internal use only where not exposed to moisture/damp. You will need a standard mortar / render mix (they are the same thing). You can buy the stuff pre-mixed in a bag and you just have to add water. I've done a vid on this already: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p72Tl8t8m6m4lqM.html Best wishes, Des

Just replace your roof tiles they will cost you 2 pound each and are very easy to change

Hi mate what you need is acrapaul £70 a tin and flashband that will fix it most roof tilers will not replace one tile there is not enough in it for them I'm a plasterer and roof tiler by trade and have been for 34 years

Hiya Garry. Hope you are well. It's not easy mate but we all have different strengths and weaknesses. For example, your plumbing skills are far better than mine. ATB, Des

I'm a chippy but turn my hand to anything. Trick is with plastering is go at it with bags of confidence... put it on the wall as fast as you can as it's a timing game. Then once the wall is covered then go over it and flatten it off, if it's still to wet then leave it a bit but chances are if your new to it it'll be going off. Don't leave to long before you put 2nd coat on, (1st coat should be fairly firm to trowel and not leaving deep trowel lines). Same with 2nd coat, throw it on main areas 1st as quickly as you can then work around the tricky areas after 90% is covered, this way you won't hopefully get in a fluster as there is nothing more confidence knocking. Then once wall is all covered go back over whole area to flatten. Leave in around 20 minute intervals and keep troweling up, 2nd and definitely third stages trowel up with water preferably in a spray bottle, drying times can vary on really cold and damp or stinking hot days so try and compensate accordingly. I see a lot of people struggle like I did too at 1st trying to be to pedantic about putting it on, dont fuss about you just wanna get it on, skills improve over time obviously, just get it on the wall then play about with ot once it's on there. Always use new unopened in date plaster that has been stored somewhere dry and not damp. Always seal with pva on renovation work and i personally use a 50/50 mix. I usually do a coat the day before if I can so it's not diluting on the wall as your plastering as this can cause loads of grief, then a 2nd coat 10 or 15 mins before plastering so it's going tacky to the touch. Always always use clean cold water, never dirty as this will set the plaster off like lightning, I had a guy labour when plastering a house and I found out at the end of a job he was sourcing water from a mixer thermostat tap and it was still luke warm despite being turned to coldest setting, I thought I'd lost the nack to plaster as it was going off so fast Haha, I laughed about it later but was I ever cursing myself at the time.Never over trowel plaster especially when too wet, better to leave it a bit if the case, this could run you into all sorts of bother, if its wet just leave it for a bit. When plastering over bonding use the same method as above but no need to pva if ideally you plaster the same day as bonding which is what the proper way is but left any longer then pva. It's all a timing game followed up by confidence in yourself and saying 'I'm going to conker this" give it a go and have some fun.. once you get the hang of it you'll really enjoy it and it's very self rewarding to be able to say... I did that 🤷‍♂️😀

That's an easy one - you can do both. Just bear in mind though that cement will dry rock hard and you won' be able to sand it down - so it's going to be much more difficult to finish off if it's left rough. ATB, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thank you very much 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

@@21stcenturycaveman33 hi me again..... just wondering wants the best paint to protect wood against cement..... Thanks

Hi there buddy. Not sure without researching it to be honest. Do a Google search - that should give you a few pointers. ATB, Des

Plasterer.

Hi there. You would need to scratch all of the surface back to make it sit flush. If you don't there will be a raised area in the middle surely??

@@21stcenturycaveman33 if you can see two 2mm on a wall you are a better man than me

@@ryanwilkins7080 If it was cement maybe. The bonding shrinks anyway. Enough for a thin coat of finish.

Hi there. Great questions. The time it takes for the PVA to go tacky depends on the suction on the wall and the room temperature. I'd say check it 10, 15 and 20 mins with finger tips. If it goes tacky quicker than 10 mins I'd put another coat on which will help to control excessive suction which will dry out your plaster too quickly. Then check again per above instructions. Just PVA all of the chases in one hit. Do NOT mix up a huge batch of plaster and attempt to fill all chases in one go. The plaster will definitely go off and harden before you're able to use it. If I were you I'd mix up enough plaster to do one chase at a time. You may find that by the time you get to the latter chases that the PVA has already dried out. Don;t worry about this. Just dollop another coat on and continue plastering when it goes tacky. Try not to stress about it. It's not an exact science. Don;t put yourself under pressure. Take your time, follow above instructions and try to enjoy it. You'll be fine. Best wishes, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thank you very much for the reply and information Des! I’ll do the smaller batches. Odd question though, it might sound stupid. Once I’ve emptied the bucket, the small pieces of plaster left over will have inevitably hardened, how do I clean the bucket and tools to keep the hard pieces from going in the new mixes? And what to do with leftover plaster? Sounds odd, but when I did some tile grout for the first (and only) time, I had some left over and nowhere to put it, so I left it to harden in the bucket along with the cheap float knowing I could just bin it without needing them again. This time though the trowel and things will be handy again in the future so I can’t keep binning stuff haha, but at the same time I can’t exactly put leftover plaster down the drain or in the bin! It’s got me stumped! 🤔

Hello there. Absolutely not a stupid question at all. A very valid one actually. Any plaster which hardens should always be scraped out and thrown away. It serves no use whatsoever and will contaminate any new plaster batch you knock up. For small batches, you can trowel straight from the bucket, apply to surface and then scrape out and dispose of any hardened plaster in bucket and start over again. This will work well for smaller batches. However, with much larger batches, you will need to mix up plaster in your clean bucket, remove plaster and place on a board or something to work from and then clean your bucket out straight away ready for the next batch. As you go along you must have some clean fresh water in a 2nd bucket and a brush to frequently wash down your trowel to keep it clean and prevent debris from spoiling new plaster. Summary: 2 buckets - one for mixing plaster, one with fresh water for cleaning down tools as you go along. Also, at the end of every job, always clean your buckets and your tools. Always make sure you dry your tools properly or they will rust. I normally dry off my tools with a dry cloth and finish off with paper kitchen towels to ensure completely dry. If you have some DW40, lightly spray this on blade and rub in. Guaranteed no rust. This will ensure that you extend the working life of even the cheapest tools considerably. Hope this helps. Get back to me if you need any more info. Best wishes, Des

As you've already mentioned, don't put plaster down the drain (or try and flush it down the toilet like some people do). Scrape it out into a bin bag and put it in your bin in sensible quantities. It'll be fine and a very easy way to dispose of it. Do not chuck huge quantities in your bin without bagging it first or you'll end up with a very heavy bin which never gets emptied! When I clean out my dirty buckets, I generally hose them out in a discreet part of the garden where the dirty water seeps away into the ground (you could also use a watering can for example). Any debris left on the surface can be left there or simply scooped up and binned in a bag when dry. No biggie. Hope this helps. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thank you ever so much for this information Des, you’ve been a massive massive help!

A big no for sure. Unfortunately, regular poly filler will be too weak a plaster. Not strong enough. Not meant to fill these depths. ATB, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 thanks for the reply! 👍🏻

Hello there - good question. Whilst the Bonding plaster may be flush with the wall it will not be smooth. Bonding plaster is a backing plaster and has a rough texture. It is not meant to be a final (top) coat plaster. If you are going to skim the wall then it can be left as it is. However, if the wall is going to be painted or papered the joins need to be as seamless as possible and some sanding will almost certainly be required. Hope that helps. Happy New Year, Des

Hi there. Assuming it is Bonding plaster that it has been filled with it shouldn't be too difficult. Get any strong wallpaper scraper or an old chisel and simply scrape back 2-3mm of surface layer. Once you've taken this back it can be easily filled with a fine finishing plaster. If you're unable to scrape it back then it's not Bonding plaster and you'll need to try something else. Hope that helps, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for replying. I assumed if I impacted it the whole thing would just crack and crumble

If it's Bonding plaster - no, it'll be fine mate, Des

Yes, you're right. You are 'technically' supposed to build up deep cavities in layers but very few do as this is rarely practical due to time constraints, etc. Never compromised my jobs though - works a treat. Aldo, the manufacturers' spec sheets are always over the top to minimise them getting sued in an industrial setting. Exactly the same with medications - if you worried about every possible side effect you'd never taken a Paracetemol. ATB, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 I am an Architectural Technician so I try to stick to rules when I can :). Just a habit in our industry I suppose.

I'm sure that would also work well my friend. Thanks for your feedback. ATB, Des

The best thing is leave the back box just hanging and put some bonding inside the hole and then squeeze the back box into. After screw it to the wall. No cracks around the socket after.

@@DerekHundik this makes complete sense. You can get the back box more flush with the surface which leaves filling in around the box much easier. Thanks for this. Just in time of my latest project.

here we go ............... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r994ad2A29jJink.html&ab_channel=21stCenturyCaveman

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thank you

Ah I’ve just realised the electrician did the chasing!

No probs my friend. Best wishes, Des

Lol. You're probably not far from the truth to be honest. Take care, Des

That's a very good idea and one I've since considered myself. Best wishes, Des

Hello there. Some electricians will not put in any capping, some use PVC and some use this stuff. Depends on the electrician and the customers specification. This is obviously the most heavy duty option and my choice. Have a great day where you are. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 heavy duty option ? It looks like plastic .

Capping is pointless any drill on hammer action will glide thru it , waste of time and money

I've been able to rewire a switch very easily simply because the previous spark used capping. Just used a strong rod to pull it through.

Hi there. Do not let the PVA set . You need to apply plaster when PVA goes tacky for best bnf between old and new plaster. Good luck, Des

Thank you. I think it depends on what type of finish you're looking for once you've filled them in tbh. Anyone can chuck plaster in a chase but it's how you finish it that will ultimately determine what skill set is required. For example, if you're going to skim over then I agree - no biggie. If you're going to paper over - better finish required. If you're hoping to paint straight over then a lot of skill will be required or it will look a complete mess. Best wishes, Des

Don't need two coats of bonding.. Good vid.

Don't let pva dry either. It needs to be tacky .

Fair game buddy. Respect ;?)

Hiya buddy. Thanks for your comment. I've often wondered about this stuff. It's a lot more expensive but you think it's worth it? What's the big difference? Thanks muchly. Des

No way. It is NOT the product to fill in the chases. Thistle Bonding is the one to go for. Easifill is a great choice for finishing off and getting a nice smooth surface to finish the job off. See Part 2. ATB, Des

I like Browning the best to fill in the hole. Then skim with finishing plaster

I appreciate your advice buddy. I didn't think of putting plasterboard inside the channels. I'll give that a go next time. Would have saved a lot of time that. ATB, Des

Nothing wrong with it - absolutely fine. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 too deep should be flash with final wall

He was making a video you doughnut That’s why he went slower, to explain what he was doing Jesus some people moan about everything...and have probably never done anything themselves

Y

Sorry but I do not do private work if that's what you're asking my friend. ATB, Des