Amazing man, keep it up soon enough you’ll change your own and ur friends brakes

🎓👨🏿‍🔧🛠⚒🦉👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏿🙌🏾!!!

@@christiandemarcus2257 mans 16now

nice

18 now 😁 got car?

Did it work for you?

Liqhuid Haha, my ChrisFix senses are tingling.

Liqhuid Same here. I fixed a Ford truck last week with the very same problem. lol

ChrisFix I'm looking forward to seeing if your next video addresses my problem. If it does I'll be freaked out.

3M silicon paste £15 on ebay from USA or £45 on ebay from U.K W.T.F !

Same here Chris ... Went for a servicing the day before..... Noticed this issue.. And today this video was in my suggestion... N i was like... Haa... Thts wat i really needed... 😅

Awesome!!! That is what I like to hear!!!

Some car repair shops will use the wrong stuff to lube the pins and you won't notice it until much later when you hear noises from the brakes. Guide pin grease must be silcone based and made specifically for heat and good for use in contact with rubber boots.

Yo JoE Thanks for sharing! I will have to take a look at it! Good eye!

Did you also see the dent in the piston? That must be replaced too!

ChrisFix you don’t know squat let me see some ase certifications

@@thewrenchmaster122 Sit yo ass down boeee

@@chrisfix would you tell me why rear brakes worn out before front brakes And is it necessary to adjust them all together

Thanks for sharing!

I am glad the videos are helpful!

+angelisone You are welcome!

ChrisFix can I put Synthetic Grease

It's not really "time out". He does these videos for income. It's a side gig. We pay him in ad views. ;) (Turn off ad block)

That would be a hell of a lot of time out to not be getting paid though. Making videos of such a quality takes a lot of extra time I'm sure.

Good to know,thank you

Also, after I clean the pin AND socket (hole...whatever it is), I install the boot on the pin and make sure there is plenty of lube still on it after the boot slides off the lube put on it initially. In this video, the boot pushed off most of the the lube as he slid the pin in the hole. This guy does fantastic videos. Edit: I was not being sarcastic about his videos being fantastic. I have learned a lot and he does it without a bunch of needless talking.

You cannot get all the corrosion out by cleaning the slide pin bore. Its actually recommended to replace the caliper mount bracket with the new slide pins.

For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors

@@rivieraauto8540 And? This is not structural, as long as it slides, it is ok.

@@aitorbleda8267 not sure what angle you're trying to play with the structural argument but what i would say is you're right..... its a safety related system..... therefore its not ok to do a cheap half ass repair for a customer who may potentially come back and sue you in the event that they end up in a crash. Or better yet can make you liable for criminal charges in the event someone is killed. Its happened before. Not really something you look at if you're doing your own brakes but, nonetheless if you're working on safety related components... moral of the story is do it right. If you dont replace the caliper bracket and slides together. They will continue to sieze once water gets passed the pitting from the corrosion that was cleaned off. Not something i necissarily consider fine.

And sometimes you have to replace the shims. Ideally you should check this yearly especially if you live in snowy areas where snow ice and salt can rust those surfaces. Might not be a bad thing especially if you get more than 3 years out of the pads.

how do you know the bore identifies as female, it might be two spirit, not good to gender judge mate, fix up

Bore brush a good idea! I just ordered a set from Princess auto 1/2 price $16.53. I always had problems cleaning the female hole out. I used to use brake cleaner and let it sit then Q tips. Your idea makes sense. Thanks.

This. I noticed that my freshly cleaned/lubed pin would get stuck each time I reinserted until I cleaned, lubed, and reinserted it several more times. The first few times it would stick so hard I had to use my impact driver to free it up! Even though it wasn’t threaded I’d see smoke coming out after spinning it free with the impact. I’m replacing the whole caliper but I needed it to go back together in the mean time so I could get to work!

Chris Thanks a lot man!

Yes I have seen many brake repair videos on-line and I don't remember the slide pins being covered. Great video Chris

Flammable 281 Thanks! I try to cover new things and this brake job presented the perfect opportunity.

even just shooting some brake cleaner with the tube in there would be great

Stephen Maurer an appropriate sized drill bit used by hand with alternate brake cleaner spraying does the best job on stubborn clogged holes. You would be shocked at the amount of rust/petrified grease that can be stuck in there.

Rockitanski I use the drill bit method as well but I use a slightly small bit with a piece of scotch brite on the bit and spin it with the drill and it scrubs the hole clean and shiny in 5 seconds with some brake clean.

Rockitanski and

Right! That bore should be cleaned by whatever method you prefer. If it's left dirty, half the crud is still in there and it's half way to seizing again. Good video.

Thanks David!

David Sparling i doubt it too haha!

I know this is prob true for a lot of shops sadly but at mine, this is not the case at all. We, or at least, I go even above and beyond this when doing a brake job. I always remove everything and inspect it first really well. I sand blast the caliper brackets anchors really well so the new hardware and guide plates fit nice and flush, always use new hardware, new guide pin boots, brake clean everything, wire wheel the guide pins, all the bolts no matter their condition when removed, lube everything really well, including the caliper piston and guide pins before putting it back together, I make sure and clean out the guide pin holes too really well as old grease and gunk love to built up in the bottoms and stop the pins from being able to push in all the way like they should. Most people think the pins are bottoming out but really there is old lube in there keeping them from going in all the way which can allow air to get in there as well and cause the brakes to get overly hot, warp the rotors, burn the pads, or cause a grinding noise if the pins cannot move as designed. Also anti-seize all the bolts before putting them back on and making sure everything is tightened properly. Id rather take the extra time now to do the job right the first time than have the customer come back a month later with brake noise that I now have to take all back apart and fix, usually on my time and not making any money in the process, unless it ends up being something unrelated to the brake job. U want customers to come back because u do good work, not because the work u already did isnt right.

Yeah they really don't. Some of them just replace the whole caliper without a proper diagnostic lol

+Harrison Edgar thanks and thanks for the tip!

+colutuber Glad you like the channel!

Thanks for the support!

I want to fill much of the space for dirt, water, and their corrosion byproducts, so I like to use excess lube, insert and compress fully, and wipe out the excess that squeezes out. Push them all the way in when fitting and the pins will only move out… which is the opposite of compressing. Of course, it might be hard to do this with some pin designs unless you take the bracket off the knuckle.

He was in the process of changing the rotors. That's why the bracket was loose.

@Mark Josiah lol

@Mark Josiahmom

Never ever waist your time turning a rotor. First off a brand new rotor isnt all that expensive and probably only 10 more then turning. Plus extra trip to get them turned. Now the issue of the rotor is thinner causing brake fade. I myself buy all new rotors at same time as pads. Now jack it up and do all 4 in my drive way in under 2 hrs. To turn the rotors have to have all 4 wheels up. Have to find a ride to drop them off then pick them up the next day. So much easier to just buy all at once. Only need 1 jack and so fast. Plus if old rotor stuck on you can hammer it off without a care. A few good wacks with a sledge and it will pop off. To worry too much damage just takes longer. But mostly brake fade from a thinner rotor and pain getting them turned to save 10 bucks. Lol i had a guy use a old rotor with new pads. The pads wore out faster so he wanted me to sand the pads smooth and put on a new rotor. Lol jokes i refused. Like dude new pads is new rotor. New rotor new pads. As per caliper pins i just buy new. On my suv they are 300 bucks but get 150 back for the old ones. So lol ya only 150 for brand new after returning the old one. Why waist time ordering pins when do all new and good for over 3 yrs. New calipers will last like 10 yrs. Sure not worth saving 150 bucks today but brakes wear out faster and now a year later gotta do it all over again any way. To save 100 today costs you a extra 300 tomorrow. Plus always spend the extra 20 today to buy premium parts. They will last 50% longer. I got premium rotors from amazon and carbon ceramic pads. All 4 rotors and pads around 350 bucks. 2 yrs later they barely even wore. I do live in a remote area so not often on the brakes but when i am its at high speeds. Never skimp out on brakes. The brakes most important part so never try to save a few bucks on the part that will save your life if needing to slow down fast. Even the axles not worth skimping out if go long drives. Gonna skimp on repairs then your safest bet it to just pay 800 per month and drive brand new for life. I sure dont wanna be rear ended by someone that saved 50 bucks on cheap brakes and turning rotors causing less braking power. Lose a axle no issue. Rear end me to save 50 bucks becomes a serious issue. Oh ya please use e brake often when park so that if brakes fail atleast can reduce damage in a crash by having a e brake that works and not siezed up by lack of use. Wont find out siezed until emergency.

@@shawnkelly1241 All depends on the vehicle.

+MrChristopher3232 Yea that is the goal! It is pointless to make it specific because not everyone has the same car.

Not every car will have such guide pins though. Also with replacing drum brake videos, a lot of them show that you can just remove the drum after removing the wheel, which is not the case for Ford Focus cars. At a Ford Focus you have to undo the center nut after which you remove the drum+one bearing. Boils down to, universal videos don’t work. If you’re planning to do work on your car then look up a video on that job on your specific car model. Also, don’t trust garages, i have never met a single one who didn’t cut corners, or charge crazy prices, or both.

dieselworld Thanks! You should definitely clean the bore as well! Use some brake clean and a screw driver with a towel at the end to poke around!

Chris Fix for the win!

use a dremel with a wirebrus to clean out the bore and also take of the stainless steel brakepad slider of and clean the caliper bracket because rust will pushes the stainless steel slider against the sliding edge of the brakepad

lacossa nostra my Tundra has rubber boots inside the caliper holder. Just an FYI if I was to dremel that. She gone!

For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors

+Bobby0345 Thanks! I leased a Hyundai santa fee that need a new engine after the first 2000 miles. Thankfully it was a lease and I didnt own it!

David C bus roft

The inner pad is the first one to make contact with the piston and the disc, so it will naturally be the first one to wear out more than the outer.

+Colin Shum I would!! A dirty hole would cause future problems with your guide pin!!

How? By spraying brake cleaner inside the hole?

WARNING: I´m by no means an expert, but judging from all the car tutorial videos I´ve seen brake cleaner seems to be the solution for every kind of dirt or mud down there so I assume this could work

I use a cotton bud then spray then grease and burp the rubber you don't want air.

nope,total cleaning and replacing parts are required sometimes

Aw3someOpZ she never said that to me ever

Aw3someOpZ no way

Don’t know what kind of women your sleeping with 😂😂😂

😰😝

Ha ha 😝

Thanks a lot! And now you know the issue!

Mark Allison Crazy! It is amazing that they can be so hard to remove sometimes!

Mark Allison Seen a few get 'stuck'.. more likely some one forgot to grease it back up when re-installing.

Or the boot was not sealing and water got in and rusted.

Always use a silicone grease. Then you won't have issues. Another post said clean out the female hole the pin inserts into with a "bore brush" make sense. If the rubber is getting old replace as water and salt can get into the hole /pin and that causes the seizing issue. Cheers.

Next time swap out the bracket they are cheap

+Jose Ruiz thanks for the support Jose

Thanks!

+BrysNightWorld #truth

BrysNightWorld 😂😂

Nice one guys! lol.

BrysNightWorld you damn right , thats what i did and i didn't know what i was doing when i changed my brakes, i just guessed and it turned out great lol and its been more than 3 years and no problems

BrysNightWorld she might need extra force to push all the way in the hole.

ekkrir Good eye, that is getting replaced with the new guide pins (they come in the kit with the new pins).

3DMachines Thanks man! That is what I ended up doing!

Zsasesss

never go cheap on brake parts, you life is worth more than few dollar

@@shawnkelly1241 how did you go from fixing brake to that?!!

@@ahoorakia i dont know lol.

joeyf504327 Silicon grease works great. It doesn't wear out the rubber boots and it doesn't solidify in winter.

Always use silicone on the pins, it works the best. Silicone will repel water and will not rot the rubber boots. I have used both. The silicone is better.

Pablo GR Definitely! Get some brake clean and a rag with a screw driver and clean it out! Thanks for the tip!

Yep.

Agreed. If the pin is seized in the bore and comes out looking crappy, you should expect the hole to be corroded/filled with cruddy grease too.

Yes & inspect with a bright light for corrosion.

+aaag Awesome! That is what I like to hear!

It’s quite a common way of working..

I'm glad you're doing all your own work now! Thanks a lot!