Thanks That’s very helpful.

Jesus Mora gracias, me alegro de que te gusten.

you prolly dont care but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch all of the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Been binge watching with my girlfriend recently =)

@Lian Abram Definitely, been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D

@Lian Abram yea, been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :D

I have never used CA or similar to fill the grain but I am sure it would work just fine

I didn’t do for the video but when I do this I use a mask and I also clean with the Hoover quite often. For me that works very well.

I use a downdraft table!

Hi Andrew. Once you clean the inlay you can seal it with a bit of shellac and then apply resin to the timber that need the grain filled. When you cut back the resin you might get your inlay messy but you need to cut back to remove all the resin to the point that you only leave what is inside the grain. I would use resin in the white inlay as well. Once all the excess rein is removed you can use a very fine scraper to clean up the white lines if they are still a bit dirty. You might open the gran again as you crape clean the white parts in which case the grain here will have to be filled as you polish. I would also try to put some resin in an of cut to check that the grain lines don’t become dark when it dries in the wood even though the resin is clear. Just to check that you like the results before doing it for good in your work piece.

@@redkitekk thank you for the detailed response!

Hi Francisco, you don’t need to go back to fill the grain in that area, just carry on polishing as normal and later on if the grain is still open you can use a bit of pumice powder to fill in the grain that didn’t fill in the first place. I have another video on KZfaq about how to fill the grain with pumice, have a look and apply that technique to the area you need to do. Also, just in case you’re interested I have a complete guitar making course available on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

@@redkitekk Great thank you Pablo. Will check your website asap. Your help is really appreciated. Cheers, Fran

The reason why I don't use tape is that the resin will seep under the tape and before you realise you will have more resin in the areas you want to protect deceiving the point. If you don't have tape while you apply the resin and get a bit in the wrong place you can wipe it clean before it penetrates too deeply. In any case you have to try it for yourself and do what works for you

@@redkitekk Got it, thanks for answer!

Hi Anders, you don't need to sand in between coats, you only need to cut back once you have applied all the epoxy you are going to use.

@@redkitekk Thank you for at very precise og quick! answer :)

Andy Sparks you could fill the grain with a grain filler of the right color or with resin, the reason why I don’t is because it is very easy to do it as you polish as the grain is not too open, In any case you have to fill the grain in the neck. Bare in mind that the cedar used in the neck is very different to the cedar used in the soundboard which doesn’t require any grain filling at all as the grain is very closed. If you use a different timber for the neck, it will depend on its type of grain to know if it needs filling or not.

West system tends to feel a little greasy to the touch once dry. As you cut back you will get to hard resin. If this is not the case you might have added a little too much hardener to the mix. This makes the rein a bit rubbery. The mix has to be very accurate and in case of doubt a little less hardener than the recommended. I hope this helps

@@redkitekk ok thank you, i will try. I like one thing, it shrink less the x poxy

@@JMCustomGuitarsI use a gram scale to measure the two parts.

Hi, to decide if you can move on to the next step you need to see if all or most of the grain is filled, if not you need to work on that. If the grain is full then you can start polishing. You don't need to cover the area where the pick guard goes, you polish the hole soundboard and when the polish is dry you glue on the pick guard in place.

@@redkitekk thank you I went on ahead and put a real thing coat of resin on the back and a medium coat on the sides shouldn't take too long sand it off better safe than sorry. Thank you very much for your help.

I don't think that the epoxy can have a negative impact on the sound. If anything it could even improve it because the epoxy is a very hard glue that can make the wood have a more crystal clear tap tone. In violin making they don't use any open pored woods like rosewood so sizing the wood with hide glue is enough. A lot of people use pumice and shellac to fill the pores of rosewood but that takes a lot more time to do.

@@thibaultjabergguitars3598 Hi. Thank you for your response. I may have to experiment with it then.

@@thibaultjabergguitars3598 Thanks for your reply to Ukulelelsle, I think you explained it really well. Also. in the first video I explain a few other reasons why I think it is a good idea to use epoxy resin.

I explain it in the first video

I have never used zpoxy. I use west system. I do two coats, I wait overnight to do the second coat and I don’t do any sanding in between.

@@redkitekk thanks Pablo, zpoxy is supposedly quite similar to west systems. Zpoxy is said to be a little more forgiving for beginners by being easier to sand & requiring a less strict mixing ratio, but it has a slight amber color to it (which has already stained my nice white purfling more than I had hoped 😩)