Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

This isn’t boring this is called honing.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

I used wd40 and cylinders turned out great.

Calin Caracol Thanks, I appreciate it. Have a nice day.

Awesome. Thanks for watching!

+mellydaspaceboy You are welcome, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.

Alfonso Perez Hey nice video, your cross hatch pattern looks good to me. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

That drill only has 1 speed. He made do with what he has.

Yes. the drill should be around 240 rpm, slowly moving in and out to deglaze and crosshatch.

+blackericdenice 96 Tahoe I think that has the 5.7L Vin R Vortec Engine in it. Unless you have the 6.5L Vin S Diesel. Well with that many miles and blowing a head gasket it is probably due for a rebuild. Well depending on how extensive of a rebuild you want to do you are looking at about 150-600+ dollars just for parts easy (depending on the type of rebuild you do). Also that is if you do not have to do any machining. If you go to enginetechcatalog.com you can search by engine or year lookup and they have anything and everything you could want to do a rebuild. I usually go to that website and look up what I need and get the part number (you can cross reference other manufactures as well) and then get your part numbers and buy it off ebay. As far as I know you cant buy direct from them without a dealers license but there website is very useful for finding rebuild kits and parts. In the end It might be cheaper and easier to just buy a remanufactured engine with a warranty, but then again it is fun to rebuild an engine. Well anyway I hope this info helps you out and good luck on rebuilding your engine. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

Chris Kelly Yeah they are expensive for sure, but yeah buying one and doing it yourself is the way to go I think. I have bought several over the years and I usually buy mine off ebay. I usually pick them up for less than $35. Hey thanks for the info and have a good day.

+Moadeeb Judah Ben Israel This is the flex-hone I used I bought mine off Ebay for $35.00 It was a 4 1/8" (105mm) Flex-Hone Engine Cylinder Hone Flex-Hone 240 grit. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

He never got that far cause he trashed them.

+eviloctober Hey what ever works. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

+eviloctober LOL

You forgot the lettuce and tomato

KY Jelly and baby oil works pretty good for "honing".

Alittle whip cream thrown in.

Man this thing will take forever if your looking to take out a lot of metal. It will clean up the cylinders nice. You can use a dial bore gauge if you want piece of mind.

Thanks for watching!

Yes

240

Calin Caracol Well I am not so sure that this is a one size fits all kind of thing. I think it depends upon what you trying to do with the block. You can find service specifications for general use in most service/maintenance manuals. If you are upgrading beyond standard parts you can usually find the service information from the ring manufacture for cylinder info. Other performance information is usually found from the manufacture. Over the last few years I usually look up info online. I really like enginebuildermag.com they have a free digital version you can check out online for free. I like aera.org Also for hones you can find good info from brushresearch.com Also goodson.com for engine builder supplies. Well thanks for the comment and I hope this info helps you out. Have a nice day.

Depends on ring composition

+hiteck001 I have not done anything to my block in awhile, but I plan on boring my cylinders over for a rebuild and using a bigger crankshaft for more stroke, but my project has been on hold, I have been to busy with school. But in general if the ring ridge is excessive they make a tool to remove the ring ridge it is called a ridge reamer. It is basically a manual tool you put in the cylinder bore and turn it over and it cuts the ring ridge out. I have seen these tools and held one in my hand at school, but to be honest I have never actually used one before. Just about every engine repair manual shows one and talks about them, but if you check the online forums about using them. It seems to me, a lot of people are for them and a lot of people are against them. They say if the ring ridge is excessive they recommend an overbore. However I suppose if you have a cylinder that is in spec for out of round and taper, but it has excessive ring ridge, and you are trying to do a budget build. I guess you could use a ridge reamer to fix up the bore. Before doing that job though I would check the cylinder for out of round and taper with a dial bore gauge, telescoping snap gauges, or any other accurate way to test for this, because if it is out of spec the cylinder will need work anyway. So I guess it just depends on what you are trying to do and what type of budget you have for a rebuild, but yeah there is an inexpensive tool for cutting out the ring ridge. Also here is a youtube video of somebody actually using a cylinder ridge reamer. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bZ-ZYMJe2pmsqnU.html Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

There are a lot of ways to go about doing this. You can do it at home or you can send it to a machine shop. Just depends on what you are comfortable doing, and what tools you have available to use. Here is a good video of doing it at home. www.powerblocktv.com/episode/HP2012-19/at-home-engine-machining-and-cylinder-head-porting#.V5SwRDXvRyM They use WD-40, and they have other videos on machining a cylinder head at home. Anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Hello, WD-40 does work, but does tend to gum up after about 30 seconds of honing, not good for a nice sharp cut. You'll see a cross hatch, but not the best cross hatch for fast and complete break in for the rings. As I mentioned before, all the factory operations use water or soapy water with a continuous flow. We want the stones to cut, lubrication hinders this. At home, a friend can help by pouring water out of a bottle, or a hose on a fast trickle. The cuts need to be clean and sharp. Just to emphasize, oil tends to clog the stones after about 30 seconds, and then the cuts are jagged and dull (as seen under a microscope and the clogged stones can not do their job.. there will be deeper gouges too from oil and metal adhered on the stone... never good) It is very important the cross hatch cuts are sharp and uniform, like a file so that the rings break in properly. Hope this helps rock on!

I forgot to mention, the cylinders have to be oil free. Clean with brake-clean and wipe dry. Hone with water flowing in the cylinder. Soapy water is better. After honing, be sure to wipe the cylinders with soapy water at first.. dry the cylinder, then wipe with WD-40 until a white cloth remains white! Just to answer an faq in advance, no need to worry about rusting using the water. There is zero chance of any rust forming as long as the water is wiped off right away.

The torque 00 the manufacturer of the flex hone says to use oil.

This advice is wrong. The manufacturer may have never honed a cylinder, nor ran tests as engineers have.

Alexandro Ochoa My advice is to look up engine rebuilding specs for your exact engine. Usually what you are looking for is a specification for cylinder out of round and cylinder taper. I think taper spec for my engine was under 10/10000 I cant remember what the out of round spec was. If your cylinder is within specification you can hone your cylinder to get a fresh cross hatch pattern, but if your specs are out then the cylinder would need to be bored oversized to a perfect circle and then honed to get a fresh cross hatch pattern. So as far as I know, a ball hone will not correct a cylinder that is out of spec. If it has taper or is out of round before honing it will still be out when you are done honing. If you are interested in learning more about flex hones you can try www.brushresearch.com and enginehones.com for more technical info. As far as testing your cylinder spec there are several methods to use you can search them all on google. Inexpensive way is to use a piston ring and check ring gap with feeler gauge (not very accurate in my opinion). Another way is to use telescoping snap gauges and a micrometer (little more accurate), and the most accurate way and most expensive way is to use a dial bore gauge. Or better yet is to just have a machine shop measure your cylinder for you for a small fee, if it needs bored it is usually 15-20 dollars per cylinder. You would probably pay much much more for a quality micrometer or a quality dial bore gauge. So I hope this info helps you out. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Blue lintless shop towels are like $2 for a 2 pack at walmart. Why cheap out on such an expensive project??

Jon M those still cause lint I have a whole 6 pack of those

I think to get all of your questions answered try looking at www.brushresearch.com this website provides tons of info on flex hones, and if you cant find your answer they have a contact section to send them questions. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.

I did go there and found a surprising amount of conflicting or just plain ambiguous information, no where on their site do they suggest a particular grit for lets say chrome-moly versus straight chrome rings, They as well are very careful to never mention any particular engine make nor do they backup their claims with definitive dyno results....They play it pretty darn safe. They do however talk about Ra value (by providing a chart) in terms of degree of plateau at the finished surface level and if you search elsewhere on the internet you can find out that 10-20 Ra is prefered for Moly rings..... their 400 grit silicon carbide flex hone is capable of producing that. A 240 grit flex hone is to coarse for moly and will cause over done break in and shorten ring life, it will work but its not ideal, the 240 is better suited to breaking in straight Chrome rings. The 400 grit Flex hone is of course a bunch more money too!

Yeah you can check out some charts or service information and get ra surface information, but the trouble is to get a ra surface measurement you got to have a surface roughness tester/profilometer and they are pretty pricey for sure, over a grand for a decent one. I got to play around with one in my college automotive engine class, but that was the only time I have ever messed with one. The way I see it if you are wanting to know the ra finish or are trying to reach a certain plateau hone, it is best to take your block to a machine shop and pay them to do it. Most shops that I have called up in my area charge around $20.00-$30.00 per hole for boring and honing. Also I know that piston ring manufactures will have specifications for checking ring gap clearances, and they may be different than what oem specs are. Checking ring gap clearance is a relatively simple and inexpensive test to do at home. Here is a link for hastings brand they have a little info www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/checking-compression-ring-gaps I know this would an easy at home test to do to help check ring specs, but if you are looking for ra surface and other advanced measurements. I would say take your block to a machine shop. Well I hope this info helps you out, good luck on getting your rings to seat in your block right. Have a nice day.

+BrianMac Mac Yep. That is my spare room/tool room/work room. I have no garage so I made that my work room. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

first motor i ever took apart was a 1978 Honda cb750 single cam, first bike with 4 carbs (1 / cylinder). It sat right bang in the middle of the lounge for 6 months while i figured out what went where. I was 20 then - still doing the odd starter motor on the kitchen table in me and my wifes studio haha - shes ok and thinks its cute! what a score!

😂

@@fstarockaburns425 Heavy engine. I think that engine weighed more than my first bike (CB125).

You see the craziest shit on KZfaq. I'm like... Is that carpet on the floor? Why are we taking advice from someone fucking up their house. It's all relevant!

Chris Kelly You are correct. I just read a pdf off there website about common honing practices and you are right it says do not hone using solvents. However I have seen first hand that cylinders do in fact get honed all kinds of ways using a variety of different things. I still think clean up is the most important thing to me personally. However the manufacture of the flex hone does specifically say not to use solvents, and you cant argue with that. So I stand corrected don't use wd-40 to hone with. I personally still will use whatever I have on hand its not a big deal to me, and my cylinders all came out perfect with a perfect cross hatch pattern. For clean up I as well use warm to hot water and dawn liquid soap and a nylon brush. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

+Chris Kelly Water is the best for honing. All the factories use running water, copious amounts of running water. The reason: The metal being removed needs to be continuously flushed away. The stones remain clean and do their job. The result is a cleaner crosshatch. Oil, even WD-40 allows removed metal to clog up the stones. Even a small amount of metal begins to dig in, and causes deeper scratches in the cross hatch. The deeper scratches are not clean, but very rough with shards of ripped metal.. which causes longer break in of the rings. Also the rings and pistons can become scored during break in. Do not use oil, again none of the factories do, and for a very good reason. Do not listen to the mechanic who says, "I've been doing it this way for the past 40 years". That mechanic has been doing it wrong for the past 40 years. Not very many mechanics hone with water, but there is a right way and a wrong way. (look up on you tube, automobile manufacture operations)

+TheFRiNgEguitars Makes sense, but I still use whatever I have on hand its not a bid deal to me.Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

True WD-40 is a lubricant and displaces water. Any type of oil is wrong for honing and clogs the stones. The metal adhered in the stones rips and tears at the material, a dirty, ragged cut that does not break in the rings properly, and decreases the life of the engine. This is science, not opinion. The belief in WD-40 and other oil for honing is a country myth, entirely the incorrect solvent for honing. Those who use it "religiously" may claim repeated success, but who keeps track of engine mileage and wear? The engineers at the auto factories DO perform these tests, therefore their methods are credible, (auto manufacturers and high end machine shops use running water) which should be practiced by every engine builder, indeed I am saying everyone! The metal particles need to be flushed away so the stones cut a clean crosshatch. If the stones are lubricated, their cutting action is greatly reduced and again, metal particles are not flushed away and clog the stones.. the filing action to break in the rings greatly reduced, longer break in, cylinder scoring, sometimes no break in.

WTF is AFT alcohol, firearms, and tobacco....?

+jarodmarch123 There is a relationship between how fast the drill is and how fast you move it up and down in the bore to get the sweet spot. Also the flex hones are pretty easy to use and pretty forgiving. Overall I was happy with how it came out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Absolutely, but your drill is spinning too fast, to oscillate your arms up and down to get proper angle. I would dare to say that the cross hatching is way off the optimum 45 degree cross hatch angle. I turn drill speed of about 50rpm. That drill is spinning 1000 easily. Just my opinion. I'm sure it's cutting, but no where near the 45 to have optimal oil retaining characteristics

+jarodmarch123 The manufacture recommends 1200 rpm to 60 rpm. The smaller the bore the faster the rpm the larger the bore the slower. They make flex hones from as small as 4mm up to 36" and the rpm is relative to how big of bore you have. I think your 50rpm is also outside the spec for a 4" bore, but you could probably make that speed work just fine, just my opinion. But you know what the say about opinions. "They are just like buttholes, everybody has one." Then again perhaps you are correct in my drill going a little to fast, but no big deal to me, I was not going to go out and buy a new one just to clean up my cylinder bore. As I have said I was super happy with how it came out. Anyway If you want more info on flex hone tools go to www.brushreasearch.com or if you want check out this video here off there website. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrqhe7Rmx5qqcYk.html they have some good info on using one of these things. They show good techniques and show other things I missed. Well anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day.

A 4 "cylinder has a perimeter of 319 mm. If you have a cylinder length between 140 mm and 160 mm, this means that to traverse this length 45 degrees from the top to the bottom you will rotate only 180 degrees on your drill. If you complete a cylinder bottom and top each two turns of the drill you are going to 22.5 degrees. From what I see in this video they go below 11 degrees. It is just a matter of geometry and speed.

Consistency to the stroke rpm is good also

He passed away before he got to finish it. Thanks for watching.

AJ Pierce sorry for the lost it looked to me like he was doing just like my uncle did and his engines was just fine.

AJ Pierce How old was the guy

Darren Seepersad It is for finishing, deglazing, deburring, and making the cylinder get a nice cross hatch pattern, which helps with oil retention, and good sealing of the piston rings. For more info on cylinder hones you can go to www.brushresearch.com and www.enginehones.com or do a google search. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

its give your hand the right exercise.so you have the power to install the pistons

SuperDarkilla I agree with you 100%. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

+Salmeen Omar Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Lol they use a sunnen hone. This is good for a rebuild will run just fine with no problems if cylinders arent gashed.

You kinda get a feel for it, but you could use a piece of tape as a guide. Basically measure the cylinder and put a piece of tape on the flex hone shaft if you wanted to. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.

Okey thx! 😁

Have a good one to

egn83b Because that is my work room. I have no garage, no shed, and stairs. So lugging that heavy thing downstairs is out of the question for me. So I have a dedicated work room. I do lots of work in there, and when I am done I clean up my mess and get things back to normal. And yes the wd40 did linger for a few days, but gone now and back to normal. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Thanks

Yep 45 degrees is ideal. Too steep promotes oil migration down the cylinder, and too flat can hold excess oil. Too steep or too flat can cause issues, so yeah 45 degrees is the goldilocks zone. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

yea but he can warm the engine with all the rubbing and it will destress the engine for high altitudes

extraace I own it free and clear. Not a rental. Still on the engine stand. I will start back on it soon. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.

extraace was

No garage. Thanks for watching.

He probably love cars, hell i do, look at han from fast and furious, his whole living room is a garage

Andrejs Rudzitis What is so wrong with acid anyway? Cast iron, by comparison, can withstand just about any cleaning process you can throw at it: harsh caustic chemical solutions, acid dips, lots of heat (indirect heat or open flame) and almost any kind of abrasive blast media. So lets say wd40 has acid in it, I dont know if it does or does not. I dont really care. Because to me the most important thing about honing a cylinder, and it doesnt matter if you do a dry hone, use honing oil, engine oil, transmission fluid, solvent, flex hone, rigid hone, or whatever you want to use. The most important thing to do is to clean the crap out of your cylinder and engine when you are done. So I dont see a problem with it, but hey I could be wrong. It certainly would not be the first time I was wrong. Please feel free to enlighten me as to why you think WD40 is so bad. Who knows you might teach me something I did not know. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.

Amanda Pierce according to manual you can use motor oil or any other material, but in important notices there are sentence similar to - Never use acid based oils (wd40 or similar) in cylinders. So because of that i put that in here ;) I think that after one time nothing big will happen, but I usually check instructions and stick to them ;)

Andrejs Rudzitis Yeah if the manual says use motor oil or something else then by all means stick to what the manual says and you cant go wrong. It was actually pointed out to me by Chris Kelly in a post above that the manufacture of the brush hone specifically says not to use solvents in honing. So I guess you are correct about not using wd-40. However I have seen plenty of cylinders honed all kinds of ways, and I still believe that cleaning out the cylinder afterwards is the most important thing, and me personally I will still continue to use whatever I have on hand, because I tend to do things my own way. However it does say not to use solvents so you cant argue with that so I stand corrected, and I will place a note in my video saying not to use wd-40. Thanks for the comments and have a good day.

anyway WD40 is better than nothing ;) Cheers ;)

the oil to use is 10w-30. i know a machine shop thats been using it for 40 years. i use the same oil in my 2 stroke that i hone my cylinder with.

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks for watching!!