Mike, you have converted the modern tension hook into a version of the original tension hook design used by Triang. I think the Triang style of tension hook was originated by the Wimbledon MRC in the 20's/30's to allow easy uncoupling for shunting operation. I am using old Triang wagons on my shunting layout for this reason, I had not thought of moding the modern coupling.

he comes up with so many thoughtful ideas, another useful tip.

Hi Mike, this is a great idea. I do wish to point out, in historical interest, this isn't the first time this method has been used. When triang first started making trains, there early couplings were a metal type of Hook and Loop, except the loop wasn't complete. The hook was as you have modified here. It didn't have the notch in it to keep grasp of the loop. It is a fantastic idea, and I'm glad that it has been rediscovered and put out into the public viewpoint. Whilst you use this style of hook for your own purpose, the benefit is much wider. It would be great if manufacturers went back to this design. Its great for layouts where stock may be shunted round, or chelated out, on a regular basis. It provides a frustration free way of manually uncoupling and re arranging trains. This is of benefit to a wide variety of users across multiple age groups.

Good idea Mike. Amazing the difference after that small barb has been removed.

Hi Mike, after seeing this, it is exactly what I have done for my Inglenook shunting layout. I left the hooks on the loco as is, but cut the little barb off. One hook on each wagon. Brilliant! Works perfect, and I can still run the same wagons around my little loop layout. My shunting hook is a paperclip super glued into a wooden stick. Works perfect. Thanks for all your videos! Cheers!

I'll have to bear these ideas in mind as I'm planning on putting a small shunting yard into my WIP layout. Just ordered the points this afternoon so hopefully they should be here sometime this week!

Excellent Tip, Fab 👍🏻

Always a good watch and learn.

by adding a little weight in the wagons im sure it would work even better

Hi, thank you for the video, great ideas as always, Pete 👍

Great idea. I can't stand tension lock couplers and am gradually converting all of my rolling stock to magnetic couplers.

Thanks for the video, like the idea!!😎🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🇬🇧

Hi there I use a Dental mirror to lift the huck a bit like the section of track with an auto uncupeler, I also don't have to be so accurate as it's 20mm wide and doesn't seem to matter to much about how close the wagons are

Thanks for an interesting video. After you modified the coupler, it looks like a classic "Fleischmann hook coupler" for example part number 6510

Makes it way easy to uncouple but it devalues the carriages ( not that used carriages had high value) thanks for video i never would of though of that

I have seen people make magnetic couplings work with No10 staples slightly bent from their original shape, and glued to the back of the coupling hook.

Brilliant idea and very simple to do too.

For me it’s the Hunter couplings that I will be purchasing. The reason for this is that most of my trains run on DC, but I have some DCC Sound trains as well. My ANEMODEL LD101 controls both DC and DCC.

This is similar in principle to Hornby's 80s idea, where to circumvent the hook there was a little offset ramp cut out into the "D",😕whereby just twist the vehicle slightly, the hook would just ride up and free. ISTR all the Thomas stuff had it at the time, and 6 year old me thought it was marvellous.

Hello, good idea.that solves being hooked to close while decoupling.and easy to take off by hand.

Clever idea

great idea

Great idea🚂🇨🇦🇬🇧🙋

Interesting ideas. Concerning removing one hook per vehicle, one of the problems with tension lock couplings is that they are not perfectly compatible. Notoriously, Hornby and Bachman tension locks can cause problems. I understand that one reason is because Hornby coupling hooks are longer than Bachman's.

Thanks Mike, I too found the same issue with uncoupling so might well give fhis a try. On the wagons I have there are 3 different widths of tension lock couplings which makes things even more difficult so the ones with the narrower profiles end up not getting used. One point though, if you're removing the hooked part of the coupling bar is there still a need to only have one per wagon?

Overall, the tension lock couplers are less horrible to use as the HO loop ones. And you just show us that you can teak them easily for specific use.

Maybe for a shunting puzzle with dedicated wagons i can see this might be an attractive solution, but how would the couplings behave when they are dragged (under load of many wagons) around a large uneven layout with gradients ? Have you checked this on your larger shed layout?

Dont need any of that. Use a ice cream pot plastic spoon under them. Lifts any type anywhere even curves

Less fiddling about which improves the enjoyment...I imagine it gets tiresome with trucks and carriages being unnecessarily lifted off the rails all the time....

I think it is OK for your layout. But..... No good, if the wagons are turned around, as may happen on many layouts? Tri-ang designed a "spade" type hand uncoupler back in 1957 (I think) that is the best tool for this job? Leave the couplers alone and go back in time... The "old" ways are hard to beat in my books?

Another needless video showing you 'how to' for a problem that doesn't exist. They are called tension lock for a reason, they are not meant to be uncoupled while under tension, the hook is designed to do that. Just use a tool with a smaller diameter wire and put the wagons closer together.