Can this be used on flat roof. Wanting to put a patio in roof with out drilling in

@@stephaniehenry5617 Yes absolutely. This is where TuffBlock would work perfectly.

Glad you found it useful!

Glad it helped!

Thanks glad to help!

Thanks Michael. Even if people choose an alternative to TuffBlock we hope this video helps to figure out their deck build

Love to hear that! If you need any help during your build don't hesitate to reach out.

Thanks Mike, glad you liked the video.

Floating decks move gradually with the shifting ground and were designed specifically for areas with strong freeze thaw cycles in northern states of America. The deck 'floats' with the ground which puts no stress on the structure itself.

Definitely. A tamp will do the same job, you'll just need to use a bit more elbow grease :) tamps are more than capable of creating compacted ground to build on. Paver base or crusher dust helps a lot too. Please see our extensive step by step video showing these techniques in action: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNmZo7Srvr3bYGQ.html

Good question. It's completely dependent on your building codes for your region as some require the use of joist hangers. And you make a good point, the joist hanger will provide extra support for the joists at their ends. Not everyone uses joist hangers and so we're demonstrating the use of deck blocks laid out along spans in the event that they weren't used. But if you are using joist hangers then some building codes allow this as a support, and you could therefore use fewer blocks. But joist hangers aren't just for support, they also stop joists from rolling which is one of their main purposes. It's always best to build in line with your local codes, and consult a local licenced builder if in doubt.

Good question. In the vast majority of cases the water will either runoff or drain into the substrate. Some builders chose to dig pits like you mentioned, but it's more practical in flood prone areas to simply create a layer of paver base/crusher dust under your block without the pit. Like in these videos here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNmZo7Srvr3bYGQ.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fZphatZp3JyufKc.html These projects below go one step further with crusher dust throughout the area of the project: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r52gn9mI0p61oY0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6looM6d1pPHpKs.html We have a project that's being released on this channel next week where the builder created deep drainage pits for water runoff in the corner of his yard. In these cases pits can be useful to prevent flooding in torrential downpours. But 99% of the time, using paver base and crusher dust without digging is going to be your best bet. If you need any further info please reach out to us: info@buildtuff.com and we'll try to help.

We can't provide our 3d models or design files I'm afraid.

Hey sorry for the late reply. This question is one we get often and it's tricky to give an accurate answer without knowing more details. 1) Is it a ground level deck or is it raised? 2) Are you using beams/bearers beneath joists? 3) What sized lumber are you using for your subframe? 4) What type and size of decking boards are you using? 5) In which direction do you want the deck boards to run? We wrote an indepth article with deck diagrams to explain how altering each of the above can make a significant difference to the number of blocks you'll need: buildtuff.com/blogs/diy-ideas/how-many-deck-blocks-do-you-need We do have a calculator to give you an estimate, and it's based on 16 inch joist centres, with 5 foot spans for a ground level deck where the joists are going straight into the TuffBlock. This number would change depending on the materials you require though: buildtuff.com/pages/deck-area-tuffblock-estimator-chart-calculator I hope this helps. It's always best to sketch your subframe out to calculate everything as estimates and calculators only go so far!

They're not required but they're definitely recommended to provide extra stability and stop the joists from bowing. The joists slot into the TuffBlocks. With floating decks, the deck's weight (typically a small car's weight) holds everything down. But if you want to tie it down you can use earth anchors which auger into the ground.

They could but they're not necessary. So long as you have compacted, grade level earth then you're good to go. The TuffBlocks have a big footprint and provide an adequate footing for the majority of cases.

It's not necessary to secure it down when it comes to floating structures as the weight of the deck or walkway (typically up to a ton in weight) holds it down in place and with the wide footprint of the structure it's not going anywhere (similar to a car for example). However, for extreme high wind areas you have two options. You can either 1) dynabolt the TuffBlocks down if you're over concrete, or 2) you can use earth anchors (also called hurricane anchors) that can tie the sub frame down into the ground. Hope this helps.

You could use a butt joint to create a continuous span. This can either sit inside the TuffBlock or in a notched 4x4 post. Just make sure it's fastened together firmly.

We've seen them anchored to the ground using dynabolts to concrete but not from the timber to the TuffBlock. But in theory your suggestion would work. If you're concerned about tie down for high wind areas, for soil you can tie the subframe down using earth anchors. But your method over concrete could work too. Consult a local builder if you're unsure.

@@Buildtuff basically I want to mount each tuffblock to the frame using a bolt, then I'll anchor each tuffblock to the ground. Just hope drilling holes in these things don't cause them to Crack lol

@@VulcanEditing Check out this section of a video where a deck builder drills through the TuffBlock: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLWgp9WQzpbVlZs.html Bear in mind that whilst TuffBlock wasn't designed for this, it seems to work well! In a floating deck, the substantial weight of the deck itself spread out over a wide horizontal load with a low profile means the deck is held down and extremely difficult for wind to get underneath. If you can't secure the subframe down using earth anchors (because you're building on concrete) then this is the next best option.

It was a specialist 3D program not designed for CAD. But you could use Sketchup. That's free and made for practical design like deck building.

@@Buildtuff great thanks

TuffBlock works great on flat roofs. Your foundation is essentially taken care of, so you can simply place the blocks straight down and build onto that.

5 feet is the recommended distance for the span of the joist (going along the joist length), whereas 16 inches is the recommended spacing for joists going across. You'll need to figure out your measurements based on the lumber you're using so take these as rough estimates.

Hi Stephanie, the layout here is a rough guide. It's completely dependent on either: 1) The type of deck board 2) The type of joist/subframe material Your deck board will determine the joist centers. If it's a composite board then you'd be looking at 15inch centers (composite needs closer joists to prevent sag). If you're looking at regular wood boards (redwood, cedar etc) then you'd be looking at 16-18inches. This is to prevent boards from 'bouncing'. The closer together your joists, the firmer it will be (but requires more materials). The supports along the length of your joists will be determined by the type of joist you use. 5ft is a rough guide, but check the span tables in your local area to see what's necessary to meet code. A 2x8 for example might need 6ft or larger spans, whereas 2x6 would be closer together. I hope this helps. Any further questions feel free to contact info@buildtuff.com and we'd be happy to assist.

@@Buildtuff thank you this was helpful. I am using 2x6x24 fir wood joist then 1x6x20 composite decking like you have as example to cover my 20x24 space