It's amazing how much room there is between my legs and the steering wheel with just the first adjustment. It surprisingly doesn't take much of a tilt before the steering wheel is completely out of the way. :)

Thanks! Yeah it's great to have that little bit of extra space in these fairly small cars, I'm definitely glad I made the purchase. Those gauges are pricey but super slick. :)

Glad you enjoyed it!

Very cool! The column has been great, I'm still very happy with my purchase! :)

It is great, and now I don't have a solid steel shaft ready to punch a hole in my chest if I get in an accident. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel That is one thing that always scared me about these cars. They have a little plastic clip that’s expected to collapse the steering column. Doesn’t put the mind at ease.

I was thinking about saying something like that, but I didn't want to confuse people. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I gotcha, well keep up the good work, that car is looking good and come along way already.

Thanks! Yeah, there's a part of me that would really like to have power steering, I just don't know where it fits on the project list because it'll be an expensive upgrade. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Im a total DIY guy, as you can see from my channel and I've pieced together the components for the EAPS and the build is about $250 not including fab and welding nor the tilt column. That's an off the shelf part. Keep up the good work!

@@AndyKruseChannel if you ever get to it it feels amazing to drive with

Thanks!

Good luck!

@@AndyKruseChannel got the headers back on today. That upgrade is so worth it. As I’ve said before thank you for making these videos it gives me more confidence in getting out there and working on my car!

I believe that lever will work as it's the same turn signal wiring harness assembly that is already in our cars. :)

Thanks! The coupler is from Borgeson, and the part number is 313449. Summit Racing has it for less than $50 right now.

I have looked at them, but I think I'm gonna go with Autometer. I'm not as interested in keep the stock look as I want a specific look. The gauges will still be mechanical units, so at least there's that. :)

I have the same cable clutch from MDL on my car and I am using JBA Shorty Headers (part no. 1650S). I am also using the JBA H-Pipe (part no. 1650SH) that goes well with these headers. On my previous car, I had some Summit Racing 4-to-1 headers (basically Hooker Comp Headers) and the MDL clutch cable melted, forcing me to switch to a hydraulic clutch option (which was ultimately better anyway). I have videos on my channel discussing the cable clutch and hydraulic clutch conversion, and also videos about the Shorty Headers and those 4-to-1 units as well. :)

I suppose a guy could get a larger band clamp and mount it to the new tilt column, but it would move. Depending on where it was mounted, it might hit the dash or gauges. Not world ending, but it didn't seem to be the best location. That being said, the lower side mount that I did was not much better. My legs cleared fine, it was not in the way or anything, it was just difficult to see. I didn't want to mount it on top of the dash like the Shelby Tach, but that location seemed to be the best compromise. Honestly, I didn't give it a lot of thought as I knew I was going to be upgrading the gauges in the dash to a full 6-gauge setup with a new Tach, so it wasn't a big deal at the time.

You'll need to make sure you leave room for the coupler. The instructions from Ididit should show you how far away to cut the shaft from the steering box.

I don't think so, that manifold is tucked in pretty close to the block, you might have enough room.

Thanks! Yes, there is a collapsible portion inside the body of the column, making it much safer if an accident were to happen. :)

Nice!

Are you sure, everything seemed to be there? :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I’ll watch it again but I didn’t see that top bracket that goes on top of the steering column between the brake pedal support.

The three mounting locations on the steering box are threaded, so not nuts are needed. :)

No, but honestly I was paying attention to that before or after the column install. I'd imagine it would be less now as there's not a solid shaft going from the steering box to the steering wheel now that there's a coupling device and a collapsible tube on the inside of the column to absorb and front end impacts. :)

It's a Hurst boot, part number 1144580. :)

Info is the description below the video. :) Steering Wheel (kit) # STW111KA1S from CJPony Parts.

Thanks for the heads up.

As far as I know, all the EPAS systems out there consume the space under the dash where the steering housing and shaft would be located. With this specific Ididit column, the EPAS would be where the collapsible portion of the tilt column would be located, so this Ididit column would have to be cut up and modified to attach to an EPAS. You might be able to call Ididit and see if they either offer a "half column" so you can make the EPAS fit to it, or maybe they offer something with that electric power steering built in? I'd be interested in seeing how all this plays out as I'm not interested in adding a power steering pump to the front of my engine, I don't want all the hydraulic lines, and don't want the new parts under the car to finish out the steering. I'd rather have an EPAS system that mounted in the car and looks minimalistic. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Hey appreciate the response. I just contacted them about this same thing, I'll come back and update when I get an answer. I feel the same way, I'm not interested in running all the PS hoses. After some research on the forums, and to avoid the spear-o-matic problem, a section of the shaft can be cut and reconnected via a ragjoint which would break during a collision.

Sorry Boss, I don't recall the length. However, I did order the wrong unit for my car, and I hopefully explained that well in the video. The unit I purchased was for cars with a rack-steering system, where they need a little more room to get the angles right for connecting the steering column to the steering rack. That model is 1 inch shorter than the column I should have bought. Everything works fine, I just had to make the shaft adapter a little bit longer to make it all work, no big deal. The model I purchased was Part#1120644051, but what I should have purchased was Part#1120642051. Hope that helps!

@@AndyKruseChannel yea they get shorten about a inch for R&P steering I was just trying to get a length which they don’t tell you. I need to call Ididit again. First column they sent me which they recommended was 3” to short and now I think I need to just order a custom length one to make it right. Thanks for the reply and can’t wait to see what’s next on your channel.

It's from CJ Pony Parts, part number STW111KA1S. Here's a link to the install video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNV9rZqKv5a7hZs.html

Hub and Wheel is a set from CJ Pony Parts, item number STW111KA1S. :)

Thanks brother@@AndyKruseChannel

Thanks!

Next? It's a secret, don't want to spill the beans before it's time. :)

I'll take one from each year, please. :)

No, but you can google them.

I used the Borgeson 3/4" Spline to 3/4" DD shaft piece, part number 313449. :)

The unit I installed is 1120644051, but it's not the one I should have ordered because this unit is for cars with a Rack steering system. It works great and fits, but if I was to do it over, I would have ordered part number 1120642051, as the column shaft is about an inch longer, meaning it would have stuck out of the firewall about an inch more. :)

I put it in my previous reply.