Awesome, it's always great to hear someone is able to use my videos to help with their project. Yeah, I've heard a few people had fitment issues depending on the Rad they had in their car. I was in a similar situation on my previous Mustang where I went as far as getting bolts for the water pump pulley that had a lower profile head (button head cap screws) and cut the pulley shaft (like you mentioned) to make everything fit. Getting a bad switch like you got has always been a nightmare of mine. Sometimes stuff like that isn't obvious and tracking it down can be a very large task. Couple that with the fact that we all want to get our car back on the road and having to wait for a new part like that just delays everything, compounding the frustration. I'm glad it all got worked out for you. :)

Awesome, it's always great to hear people are able to pull a nugget of info from my videos. :)

Haha, thanks. :)

Welcome aboard. Every part number is listed in the description, and most have an Amazon link to help you get the correct parts. :)

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the support! :)

Great tip!

Spal all day long, I strictly run them and have never had a failure. OH and they actually work! If there good enough for Nascar, Mercedes and Lamborghini there good enough for me!

Yeah, this one definitely fit better. Down the road I'll probably look into an electric pump and see how that comes out. :)

It will be fine, I haven't had any issues. On my last Mustang, I purchased shallower head bolts for a little more clearance and cut about 1/2" of the alignment rod on the water pump snout off. It gave me more room than I have now, but my current setup isn't causing any problems. :)

Thanks!

Yeah, but it doesn't make for great content if I put safety and common sense first. :)

Thanks for visiting!

Good to know.

Unfortunately this can be an issue for lots of people wanting to upgrade the radiator and fan. I heard that you can cut a slit in the top of the core support to allow the tabs of the radiator to slide down, putting the radiator on the inside of the core support (like normal) but the tabs are on the outside (front side). This can provide 1/4-3/8" more space, sometimes it's enough. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel that’s exactly what I done! Still not done yet but will try to finish it off before the weekend.

@@AndyKruseChannel I just went for my maiden voyage but for some reason my switched signal won’t activate the fan which eventually caused it to overheat. Not sure why not but will probably just run a manual switch to inside the cabin.

@@Redmist.65 There could be a couple things going on here. 1 - the temp activated switch is no good. 2 - check the wiring for the relay, make sure the correct terminals are connected. 3 - you can check the whole circuit by grounding the wire going to the temp switch, if the fan turns on then there's something wrong with your temp switch. 4 - at a minimum you can wire so it's always on when the car is running, at least it will allow you to drive the car until you find the issue with the wiring. Good luck!

sounds good

I purchased it off Ebay. There are lots on there, just find one that fits your Rad and Fan size. :)

The four places I considered were the stock temperature sending unit location (behind the distributor), the thermostat housing (where I actually put it, but only because I had that style of housing), the radiator drain location (but I didn't want to lose the ease of draining the Rad with the petcock), and a union piece with a threaded bung that I'd have to cut the lower radiator hose in half and install it between the two pieces. If none of that is a realistic option for you, then using that style that gets installed between the fins of the radiator might be your best option. I updated the description with a link to a relay that will do the work you need. :)

Do you have a part number or something I’ve been looking to get a shorter water pump if I do this!

I'm not surprised if someone offers a shorter water pump, but I just replaced it not long ago and I didn't want to buy a new one so soon. However, I'll probably look into an electric pump next time. :)

Interested too. :)

Part: 302-WP-CW-SHORTY There may be a few other models, too.

@@CrazyGuyBlahBlah sweet thank you!

The fan is fantastic. In the middle of the summer the car gets up to temp quickly and this fan brings the temps down in a hurry. I can sit at a light, hear the fan switch on, and watch the temp drop on the gauge. While the fan is doing most of the work, that shroud is the other part of the equation. That shroud forces all the air pulled through the radiator to go through the fan. Without it, the fan only works on the 16 inch circle covering the radiator.

I don't see why running it straight to the ground terminal would cause an issue, but that's dependent on the wiring layout you've chosen. Also, I'm not sure why your voltage regulator is getting thumped, but again it depends on how you wired your fans.

the sudden off/on draw on the fan circuit can be too much for some voltage regulators. You can add a "soft-start" circuit which may help.

I had a Champion Rad on my last Mustang and I had the same problem with the fan not fitting. I cut off the steel shaft about a 1/2" or so that stuck out past the water pump pulley, and used low button head cap screws to hold the pulley on. It was enough to clear and I never had a problem with the two touching, but it was close. If you can get your shroud to will with all that, I recommend trying to get it to work as it will do a better job of keeping the coolant temps down. Just don't cut off too much of that shaft, you still need a bump on there to help center the pulley, but the four bolts are doing most of the work. I have a 190 thermostat and my temps are nice and low with my setup. We've had some real hot days in the last few weeks and the needle has not gotten above the "m" in TEMP since I installed the fan. Before I did the swap, the needle would get to the "p".

@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you! I did see that video you made but did not realize you also used shorter heads on the bolts I’ll try that as well as shaving down the center pin on the pump and see if I can get it to fit!

Yes and No, my temps were getting really hot during the hotter weather we've had this summer. Since installing the fan, the temps don't get as high, and the weather has gotten hotter in the last week or so.

From Summit Racing. Manufacturer is Dorman, part number is 902-1001. :)

Thanks! No issues with this unit, it worked great while I had it. I have since upgraded to a larger radiator with a dual fan setup, to go with my new 347 Stroker! :)

Got a 70 mach 1, keep your belt driven fan, there more reliable, I work in a restoration shop, we are always replacing electric fans in the shop, your car is now less reliable, owner of my car 46 years

That's a great idea!

It is from eBay, and those links never last. Just look up 16" shroud for your year Mustang, you'll be able to find what you need. :)

The motor mounts and transmission mount would all have to wear out for the motor to move. Not sure how a power steering car would do with this setup, but I suspect it would be fine as the water pump is dictating the available small space and the power steering pump would be off to the side. People can preach all day about the factory fan doing a good enough job, or even a clutch fan, but I actually saw a difference in my car's temps. With the hot weather we'd had this year, the stock setup has seen the needle on the gauge get to the "p" in TEMP. Since I put the electric fan in, with no other changes to the motor or car, the needle hasn't gotten past the "m", and it's been 100 degree days here for a while now. Some people are purist and they say the stock setup is fine. Maybe for them, but not for me. Plus, I have future plans that I don't think the stock setup will be sufficient at that time. The fan on any car in any configuration doesn't do much for the coolant temps about 30 MPH. At that point the air blowing through the radiator is doing more work. I have yet to see the fan even turn on while driving on the highway. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel great follow up information good to know! I already have everything else just need the slimmer fan and I will try it out too. My temps on both my 289 mustangs have been on the high side. The coupe has been good on stock clutch so far but in stop and go traffic with ambient vehicle heat it’s pegged temp a few times where I had to rev in neutral (c4 auto) to get it to cool more. All new cooling with an additional mechanics gauge along with the stock temp gauge. Idle is the bane of my existence trying to use my 66 coupe as a daily lol.

You likely have the water pump that exits on the driver's side, hence the different radiator. You could replace the water pump (I have a video on that) with a unit that exists on the passenger side, then sourcing a radiator for your car will likely be easier. :)

That is a 5.0 conversion radiator but technically the offset inlet and outlet supposedly provided better flow hence why they switched in the later years.

@@sergioacevedo2874 Thanks for letting me know. The car stays stable at 170, that seems a little low but I'd rather be low then high. I had a 65 20 years ago that had the standard inlet and outlet on the same side and the temp fluctuated a lot more then this setup does. Crazy that it looks like it bolts right up unless I'm not seeing something which is very possible.

@@BPattB I was watching a video the other day where they flir temp tested it and the passenger side inlet outlet just goes from one to the other with dead spots flow just goes from one end to the other unless it’s a more modern one with a baffle but the driver side inlet outlet forced the water through all rows so it would cool more supposedly. But cooler is better for sure. If the low temp is a concern you can check the thermostat might not be a 195 or 180. But low temp seems like a good problem lol. I’d check it with a temp gun just to confirm but sounds like a good thing lol

This particular fan is a "puller", meaning it has to be on the engine side of the radiator because it pulls air through the Rad. If someone wanted to put a fan on the front side of the Rad, they would need to find one identified as a "pusher" so it can push the air through. So in this case, the fan I have in this video would not work as a Pusher, but Flex-A-Lite does make that fan. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thx for the explanation and answer bcs I’m looking for one to mount on the front side not engine side

This is probably good advice.

Yeah, sometimes working on a car is not as easy as it looks. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel isn’t that the truth! 🥴

With the hot weather we've had lately, the needle had gotten close to the "p" in TEMP, but ever since I installed this electric fan, it hasn't gotten past the "m".

@@AndyKruseChannel What was the measured temperature?

@@swooshdave I don't know, the Temp gauge in these cars does not provide that kind of info. However, the higher the needle, the higher the temp, so the needle on the "m" is better than the needle on the "p".

@@AndyKruseChannel Do you have one of those laser temp guns? About $15 from HF. My thermostat housing reads exactly the same as my temp gauge (Autometer).

@@swooshdave I plan to install a set of Autometer gauges, so I'll be able to see the temp then. :)

Same location of what?

@@AndyKruseChannel your key on power from the solenoid by the battery

I think it has to do with have a msd ignition maybe?

@@Cornerstonebjj I wouldn't see that terminal is key-on power, partially because that terminal is not a constant 12V signal. However, in my setup (not sure about your MSD setup) it's enough to drive the signal for a relay.

@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much. I just watched your override fan switch video and I will be doing the same thing this week on my 66 stang. Your videos are amazing by the way.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up. :)

The thickness of the metal? Or the depth of the shroud from the Rad to the Fan?

@@AndyKruseChannel Thickness of the shroud. I saw there was only a sliver of clearance once everything was installed... want to get a shroud that the same thickness or thinner so I don't touch the water pump.

@@TheRareCriticalThinker I guess I should have answered that I don't know because I don't have that setup anymore. However, it was around 1/2", I purchase it off eBay. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for your fast responses! Surprised on such an old video too! What’s your new setup and why’d you change it?

@@TheRareCriticalThinker You've got some videos to watch. :)

You probably have a thicker radiator than what I've got. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Oops, sorry. I have a different car. It's a 300E W124. Thanks to it's inline 6 engine, the whole place is cramped on front of the radiator. And even if it's the radiator, can't replace it with a thinner one. Here in Saudi Arabia it gets close to 50C so I cannot afford to. Need that amount of coolant.

Does it though? Because I've never had a ground issue. :)

Not sure what you mean here. This is not wired to work with engine off, nor does the car run for 30 sec with the key off.

@@AndyKruseChannel SOMETIMES THE FAN ACTS LIKE GEN. & FEED 12V. BACK. WE HAD HAPPEN WHEN WE INSTALL FAN ON H.D. TRANSMISSION COOLER ON AMBULANCES, FDNY..

They probably do. :)

We're getting closer, I think.

The temperature sending unit (for the temp gauge in the dash) and the temp switch for the fans (like I have in this video) are two different devices. The temp sending unit (installed in my intake manifold) shows a resistance value (in ohms) that the temp gauge in the dash reads and displays a temp. The temp switch for my fans is essentially an on-ff device. The temp switch is open (not allowing the circuit to complete) until a preset temp is reached, at which point the temp switch closes and allows the circuit to complete and the fans turn on. The wire connected to this temp switch is the ground wire for my relay. Once the wire "sees" ground, the relay activates and juice from the battery runs to the electric fans, and it remains running until the coolant temp level drops enough to cause that temp switch to open back up (opening the circuit and stopping the relay from grounding). That circuit breaker on my battery (the video where I move the battery to the trunk) is just a generic unit off Ebay. It's a 200A circuit, and I believe it's commonly used in marine applications. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel gotcha - and thank you! So right now I have 2 temp sending units - one at the thermostat housing and one at the back of the motor (I have a 200 i6). I'd assume my temp 'switch' for the e-fan should go at the thermostat housing location then, and I would need to relocate the wire I have there now to the temp sending unit at the back of the motor if I want to keep both temp gauges. I know I don't NEED two temp gauges, but I've kind of gotten used to having them both, knowing they took readings from different spots on the engine. Guess I'll have to give that up and use one location for both temp gauges moving forward...

Personally, I think it's redundant to have two temp sending units as the unit at the back of your system will show the temp you're interested in. If that temp goes too high, your thermostat is not opening and you'll need to diagnose what's going on. Having that sending unit in front of the thermostat will give a false reading of the coolant temp as the readings are after the coolant has been cooled by the radiator, and not really relevant to the status of the engine. Some people argue that putting the temp sensor for the fans in front of the thermostat (like I have done) will not activate the fans on the true temp of the engine. I'm not worried about that as I don't care if the fans turn on at 175 degrees or 190 degrees, I just need them to turn before 220 degrees, which it does do. The actual temp of the engine is higher than when my fan switch activates, but it's like less than a 5 degree difference, so it's not really an issue.