We appreciate the compliment and the suggestion, Paul!

You are correct...this is many times the case! Good advice.

That's always the $64,000 question...If you don't use your compressor often or if you're a weekend warrior, a HF unit may work well for you. Sure, they're not quality units and aren't durable, but it may work out for someone who uses the compressor infrequently. Otherwise, rebuilding your current compressor is probably the better option. Thanks for the comment!

It's a good idea to do this, yes. Typically, you break in a new compressor to help "seat" the valves so if you're not replacing the valves as well it's not really necessary, but it's a good idea anyway. When running the unit without the discharge tube connected to the head, the pump doesn't have to work as hard. This will also allow the oil-free piston ring to seat inside the cylinder wall. It certainly can't hurt. Thanks again for the questions!

@@MasterToolRepair thank you for your explanation.

Thanks for the question! No, oil-free air compressors do not require the piston ring to be lubricated. The compression ring has a Teflon coating that does not require any lubrication. Hope this helps.

@@MasterToolRepair Thank you so much for the input. I based my question on my previous ring replacement and it happened to have lasted only a few uses. Now that I disassembled it I find it torn (due to not building up enough pressure).

@@abemelendez8477 I'm glad to help! Feel free to post any more questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer.

@@MasterToolRepair Thank you..I will

I disagree

Thanks for the question! If the piston ring you received has a lip or cup on the outer edge then yes, it does matter. You want that lip or cup to face up on the piston. If the piston ring you received is flat then no, it doesn't matter, because the piston ring will form into the correct shape when the unit runs. Hope this helps!

Is there any number cast into the rod? Casting may say ACG-1, CAV 3 or Patent 5.231.917.

@@MasterToolRepair THanks >: there is a patent marking 5.231.917.. ! I've taken these other measurements with a digital caliper. i have one rod/piston still intact . Bearing OD 40 mm bearing ID 16.7 mm Sleeve ( cup) Id ( piston bore ) 60 MM slive od 62.5 mm sleeve length 50mm sleeve lip diameter 74 mm Overall length Top of rod cap to the bottom of the rod casting 147 mm operational length from crank centerline to Top of piston assembled 115 MM My selves are in good shape and bearings are ok. I even have a spare set of seal from the last time the rods cracked. i need 2 pistons. if it's a direct fit. Thaks for your assistance !! ( Scott )

@@scotthull4400 I'm glad you could read the patent number on the rod because I think we have what you need! The most most popular kit DeVilbiss (who made these units) used was the "KK-4835" kit, which comes with the rod, compression ring, piston top, screw, bearing and two o-ring gaskets on either side of the valve plate. They have discontinued this but we have it available...we contacted the foundry who made these for DeVilbiss and are offering them. You can view the kit on our site at the below link: mastertoolrepair.com/kk4835-pistoncylinder-kit-kk-4835-kit-p-478.html The kits are slightly different than the original DeVilbiss kits. For one, the bearing is already installed and the rod is a press-on fit...there is no screw to tighten it to the eccentric. Please be sure to read all of the notes and description for this part on our site prior to ordering (if you do). I hope this helps!

@@MasterToolRepair that helps a TON. It’s not the most amazing tool but it gets the job done for me and I’m happy i won’t have to replace it, at least not yet. Excellent !! 😀

He does indeed! He gets a lot of compliments on it too, case in point!