Are you referring to a factory end cut? . Id strip the walls with 1by4 perpendicular to the STDs an install it vertical.....no joints an can broom it easily to clean it. My knowledge is free this time

My point was when everything else in a house is very flammable, using one material that isn't won't make much of a difference. Cheers!

Most wood coverings are considered a fire barrier.

We have a house wrap on the exterior, but in our high heat low moisture area, air flow is actually better to prevent molds, etc

By the way I have a family cabin in Colorado in the mountains and we started working on it In 1955 and it's being finished still and my family used hand tools for everything not electric tools and its look amazing and we just this last summer had a stone work

Great idea ...

So instead of having the toung up, do you have the tounge facing down when you start from the top? Seems like starting from the top would be a hassle.

​@@pascb7360tongue up

I take the same position.

Did you do your ceiling? Any tips? I'm getting ready to do walls and ceiling soon.

@@talmagetrujillo637 Yup it turned out real nice, I’d say it’s important to have a scrap piece of the tongue and groove to use to lightly hammer boards into place. Also a second person is a big help on the ceiling

We used trim pieces for that

I don’t envy you, but in a way… I do! Renovating an old cabin like that sounds so rewarding. I wish you the best of luck and keep us updated on your progress!

@@KlausMedia thanks. I can use the help! Here's how I approached it. The T&G is going in horizontally not vertically. When it comes to level and plumb it is the perception that matters. It needs to look right to the eye not simply the bubble. The areas that must look right are the corners where two walls meet and across open door ways where the horizontal line is broken. The last areas of importance are the floor and ceiling gaps. I took a laser level and starting at eye level struck several reference lines paying particular attention to the corners and doorways. I started at eye level because that's how you see the room when you walk in not the floor or the ceiling. Once I had the reference lines I set the bottom board on each wall approx half a plank from the uneven floor and made sure that it was level, the corner joint was right and the cross doorway lines were right. As I built up the wall I checked level on every plank and where it was out would adjust it to level. This reduced the cumulative error or "tower of pisa" effect. A 1/16" adjustment will not be seen but an 18/16" error will make the wall look like it is leaning. Eye level references, matched corners and doorways, maintain level as you add rows.

We did not seal it as we wanted the all-natural smell and feel of the wood. It’s most important to seal flooring, but there’s also the problem of the color of the wood changing over time, especially if it’s going to be exposed to sunlight. We’ll see if we decide to seal it down the road.

@@KlausMediagenuine question.. why don’t you use a clear sealer to keep the natural look of your wood while still sealing the wood.. This wood will 100% expand and contrast as well as absorb moisture

We ripped the last board about half an inch shorter than the gap to fit, then used trim to cover the hole.

In general you always install ceilings first

Everything is possible by hand, but a lot harder to do. Also jigsaw 100%

These are tongue and groove planks from Lowes. And yes, that’s what I did with corner trim.

They are single boards, not panels.

But what's the breadth of one plank or siding that you install in this video,are they 4 inch broad or more than that

I’ve several videos updating on the progress of everything, yes.

We didn’t do that, but we also were installing in the heat of summer already. May be a worthy idea if you’re installing in the winter.

I cut the boards to length, I find that cutting outside is easier on my sinuses haha I had that same phenomenon with the strange corners. I put a corner piece of trim and that seemed to help. Most of our corners in this little house are used by shelves or cabinets anyway so it’s hardly noticeable.

The standard American door is 6’8”, and I am 6’4”.

@@KlausMedia OMG! Got reply😁 I somehow knew you are quite tall as being 6 ft I don't feel like the door top is so near to my head top😅

Thank you so much for this helpful video! Also, love your strong speaking voice! 😊

Just put a level on them every few boards, what’s most important is that the boards are parallel with the floor and ceiling, even if they’re not perfectly level.

Lowes, I don’t remember the price

Of course! Self tapping screws would work, but you would have to screw it into the face of the board instead of the lip, which may be more difficult to hide the head of.

It wasn’t :)

The little nails for sure

Ive still not taken care of this project 😅. I rewatched i think some glue would be smart not on the grooves but on the studs just a bead.

When we installed it on the ceiling, we started on the top and worked our way down, so we face-nailed the first one once and nailed up through the tongue with the rest.

No we chose not to

It is tongue and groove pine from Lowes.

2 inch 15 gauge

You’re right, that’s how it’s installed. None of the seams lined up, not sure what you were seeing, but that would drive me crazy haha

@@KlausMedia at 12:35 apparently it just wasn’t nailed yet but 2 short pieces have seams in both sides lined up

Oh wasn’t the at places there just for demonstration purposes for the tongue and groove mechanism?

Its going to be covered with cabinetry just listen

The groove hides the nail 👍

Butt and trim, depending on the spot.

I don’t see why not

No galvanized pipe in this house, also we’re in Texas. Exterior walls aren’t a problem for us

@@KlausMedia What kind of piping was that in the bathroom? Also I wouldnt say texas is immune to freezes if we look back the past few years lol.

Pvc and pex

We do under the exterior siding

We did none of that, no.

1x4’s

It can be tricky, make sure they’re not warped and make sure you have help!

that pipe is almost certainly just a nipple to cap off the connection so the water can be turned back on.

Yes, that

.56 a linear foot around most Amish lumber mills here. That’s for 1x6 kiln dried t&g planed on one face. Nice video btw!