Wow! You are so detailed and meticulous! Thank you for sharing your time and talent! God Bless you!!!

I would stick with stainless trim screws instead of the gold ones, The gold ones say they can be used for exterior but I’m seeing a little bit of streaking were the house gets wet

@@actuallytiny2537 hey man, thanks for taking the time to reply and really appreciate your honesty on the screws. Noted for when the time comes 👍🏻

As long as they're stainless, you can use screws or nails. The advantage of screws is you can easily remove and replace each piece, and you can drill through nails in the sheathing. If you hit a sheathing nail with a siding nail it often horseshoes and comes back out the face of your board and ruins it. The pros use nails because it's about a hundred times quicker. When you install siding all day every day, that adds up to money. I also have used pre finished deck screws. They are the same exact screw shown in the video but painted to avoid weathering.

We chose wood because it’s what we could get locally at a good price but I don’t have any problem with metal siding except for the fact that it turns your house into a faraday cage so if you have a steel roof good luck getting Wi-Fi from the outside and it’s also gonna knock down your cellular. This is one of the big reasons that we went with a hybrid metal/wood siding approach. I made sure that the areas that were wood are on the side that the Wi-Fi comes from!

You're supposed to use stainless fasteners for cedar. I've seen deck screws used a lot, too.

These fasteners were spec’d as corrosion resistant (similar to deck screws) but we definitely see wood discoloration in exposed areas a year in. We’d preferred the gold look, but to do it again we’d use the stainless.

Screws mean the siding can easily be removed in the future and repurposed for sheds and things when it’s time to reside the house. We also liked the look of the exposed fasteners.

These fasteners were advertised as rated for cedar, but they did end up staining. Next time we’d 100% use stainless.

I think that would be a bad idea, but I don't have the experience to really say, I think it would depend on how the wall is built overall.

We are in Oregon

You can but paint doesnt like the tanins the cedar has in it. If you do.....oil prime 2 coats and then paint. 🙏

You might be right, Back in the day when we just nailed siding directly over tarpaper I always put a Z flash over something like this, But in this application with the box glued to the outside of the Tyvek with Vulkem and then a 3/8 inch air space to the back of the siding which is also caulked to the box with Vulkem, Also this only being a few inches from the bottom of the wall I just had a pretty hard time visualizing how you could possibly get water intrusion past the weather barrier. The water would have to break past the siding to box Vulkem, move an inch and a half horizontally backwards and then somehow infiltrate vertically downwards through 2 inches of box glued to wall with Vulkem, to find its way to the hole in the weather barrier that the wire is going through. I think if it was up higher on a non-overhang wall I might think differently but it just didn’t seem like a real world concern in this application.