When you're torquing down a rail that grabs on angles, dry-on-dry can absorb a large percentage of the torque that is supposed to be working into the threads of the fastner. A little lube on the rail allows that contact surface to have less friction, and the torque gets into the fastner, and you get a better grab.

Getting an even gap is relevant, though if you walk the screws down in an X slowly, your gap will be quite even.

I hit this specifically at 5:30 - though could have probably talked about it more heavily. It's an important step.

That one specifically is CDI brand, can me had on MSC for about $70 (or a little less if you have an industrial account). We have a few adjustable units around, including Wera. Fix-It-Sticks are also a nice option.

I don't think that would matter. Just suggest you remember to wet-mount when you can, and make sure the rings are pushed forward in the pic lugs.

Yeah, probably the next wave of variations, March maybe?

That is likely to be only a Tac mount thing

@@area419 thanks for the reply, I'll pick one up when they drop

Yep, that's not a problem.

You’ll probably want medium rings for that - they’re in stock on the site!

For reference on other scopes like the 50mm NX8 in the video are the rings used medium or low?

Torque values are dependent on how much force you want to create, and the pitch/diameter of your fastener threads.

@@area419 i understand torque values, but when you say 18inch lbs verse 25 to 35 inch lbs that other manufacturers recommend. Just try fig out why so light.

@@long-range-eliminator I have never seen any scope or rings manufacturer that would suggest ti torque the ring halves with more than 20 😳 About 18 is the usual...

@@long-range-eliminator None of my rings use over 20 in-lbs for the scope rings torque, The ring-base torque they do.

If your pic rail is perfectly true, as many integral-rail actions will be, then there is no difference at all. This is to account for the idea that pic rails can have variance, and that pic rails, in general, are imperfect mounting surfaces. The odds of your scope body being round and straight, as they are virtually all lathe turned, is higher than the pic rail, which can be made a variety of ways, including as a separate part. Doing it this way makes sure the mating between the ring and optic is perfect, and the mating between the ring and the rail is as good as it can be. Your suggestion, with a lock into the base first, means the scope will be forced into any imperfections presented by the rail or the rail interface. If your pic rail is perfect, there is no problem here, but if it isn't, well that presents issue.

​@@area419Oh wow, that makes a ton of sense (but not something I would have thought of). Thanks!