Really pleased you enjoyed the video. Mark.

Hi, yes the primer must be wet when laying. Its best practice to apply the primer after the bed has been prepared and then lower the slab down before the primer dries out. I wouldnt like to paint a few first. Mark

Me I’m pisssssed as a flart. It’s essential

While I'm certainly not a pro, I thought I'd reply to you seeing as no one else has. This technique would apply to any size patio, big or small. So copy this and you'll be fine.

@@Dovey129 Thank you for your answer. Given that the cost was not large I decided to experiment and indeed you are right. Using the construction method you described worked well and the project is finished.

Hi, We are glad that you found the video helpful. The answer is yes you can still lay sandstone paving in December but the important thing is to keep a very close eye on the weather forecast. Industry best practice is not to lay when the temperature is 5 degrees and falling. Any paving that you have laid while the temperature is ok will need to be fully covered overnight to protect it from ground frosts and hessian sacking is a great product for this. My advice is, if you have any doubts maybe delay the project until you are confident that all your hard work and investment is not wasted because of the winter weather. Mark.

Best wishes with the install mate.

Hi there, I'm a landscaper, so can answer your question! 100mm for the subbase will be absolutely fine. I would go for a slightly deeper mortar bed. 60 - 70mm is perfect

​@stenhouseh more like landscraper 100mm is bare minimum and is not a 1 fits all it depends on the ground and 60 to 70mm is silly

Thr one thing I will say is that you need to leave a newly pointed patio for at least 6 weeks before you Jet wash it

Hi, If you are filling the gaps with gravel then there would be no need to point the paving. However, bear in mind that water will pass through the gravel so I would ensure that the laying bed also has some means of allowing water to pass through otherwise water could hold underneath the paving and freeze in the winter causing the paving to lift. If you mean using the timber to mark out the area then no that would not be needed as you are creating an arc. I hope this answers your question. Mark

@@pavestonetv2587 Many thanks for the reply. Ah do you mean like a weed membrane/geotex type material? I'll also be using a manual tamper for my sins. Doing it on a budget, so trying to avoid having to rent some of those heavy duty tools. Edit:- I probably should've explained that they'll be more stepping stones so will have some gaps between. I suppose the sand won't be needed then?

Just type the names in google

No panic on the cement, you’ll have an hour or 2 before the mix goes off

It might be recommended in an area where you have a lot of weeds, but I suppose it may not be necessary for an area you don't. Also, a concrete base would probably stop weeds from growing through, but maybe not so much a purely gravel/sand mixture. (I have no experience doing this but they are just some thoughts)

@@matthewbrown4933 thanks mate 👍🏼

Similar to Matthew's comment if you are laying on an area where weeds exist it would not do any harm to give extra protection. That said if you have the correct subbase and laying bed it would be quite invasive weeds to affect the paving stability. Mark

Hi Claire, the reason I remove some of the bedding mortar is to ensure that the joint depth is a minimum of 24mm to allow for the Pavestone Pointfix jointing compound to be correctly installed. I hope this answers your question.

The mortor removed is a weaker mix and also a different colour.

Hi Michael, Within the pack there will be a laying pattern for you to easily follow. If you cannot find it the laying patterns are on our website. Mark

@@pavestonetv2587 Thanks very much :-)

He cut it out for demonstration purposes

Don’t need it, crushed rock compacted is not going too allow weeds through.

That's not true, it wouldn't stick anywhere near as well without the slurry

​@@Browny137A why you woud need to have to stick so much anyway? Does it have some pull force in any circumstances? Like you need a slurry in case someone try to pry bar your slabs on a sunday? I don't get it either. There is no force acting agaisnt the slab that requires it to be more sticky.

@@1Akanan1 I've just laid a sandstone patio, I started off without slurry and half of them didn't bond (stick) to the mortar. The problem with this is even if they didn't wobble, they sounded hollow. Also can get problems in the future with moisture getting under the slab etc.

You don't even need the mortar beneath the slabs. A layer of sharp sand can be spread on top of the sub-base and the slabs can just be laid on that. You don't even need to compact the sharp sand layer, just screed it level. These slabs are probably large and heavy enough that they're not going to shift when walked on.

Why use a slurry .Who is going to lift the slab anyway