This is a masterclass tutorial, meaning I don't cover the basics of fiberglassing so I have enough time in the film to show the advanced techniques. You'll find all the details of the products I use in my very first fiberglass tutorial, which you'd gain from watching. You'll find it under "Fiberglass" in my "Library" lists (screen top left). I always use two release agents 1) Release wax (cheap floor wax will do), 2) PVA release - available from fiberglass supply shops. Google one locally & avoid buying supplies at a hardware store where staff no NOTHING and the product range is non existent and "kits" a trap for beginners.

Already done it. Go to "Library" list on left of home page - select "Fiberglass & Carbon Fiber Tutorials" - go to no.16. No.15 shows the processes you'd use to make a door, but the window framing is the really tricky part. Wny do you want to make a bumper in carbon? Getting a clear finish really would require vacuum bagging.. and are you experienced at all in that?

Technically the fender copy will be bigger than the actual fender and the dimensions will be slightly different. I see your probably trying to save yourself some time and cost of materials, I get that. To do it right, the way Bill in his videos does it will yield you good to excellent results. To recoup your expenses maybe advertise you can make copies of your specific fender for other builders, just a thought.

With race cars fender lips aren't really needed & are prone to causing tire rub issues, so normally I don't roll the cloth right around them. The only way you can do that is to have the guard horizontal. It can be done, but with a 1 piece front that means the guards 1) must be separate pieces like with this build 2) The lips have to be added after the main guard layup as a second job once the lips have been formed. These days (as in my current Bellet build & earlier Civic Phase 4 build), I make the front half of the guards part of the bonnet section, and divide off the back quarter of both front guards (like where the join line is on a Mk1 Mini guard), so large flares don't foul the wheels at the back when the front flips up. So it all depends on whether you're building a race or a show car, a or a flip up or pull off front end.

It's so much lighter and not too expensive. Finding it is hardest make sure you get resin too

Took the usual three applications of filler with a sand in between each (one a day), but using Fairing Compound which is way softer than car bog plus using a 60 grit disc on a rotating air sander meant it took a total of about five hits on the car for an hour each day.

Famowood Glaze Coat is the American equivalent, otherwise you're looking for a two pack clear epoxy floor varnish...TWO PACK only.

thank you so much for the quick reply ill look for some online now... thanks again

would epoxy two pack floor paint be ok if its clear www.paints4trade.com/2-pack-epoxy-floor-paint-262902-p.asp?gclid=CjwKCAiA7JfSBRBrEiwA1DWSGzuqtI6LS7fycE8SxgqdkBZtrj9N_1buqF3NftFClU_MTQ-hAOnR2hoCpLIQAvD_BwE

That's exactly it. Doesn't have to be clear either, just two pack.

thank you so very much i really appreciate the help

One coat of release (or floor) wax, not polished. The multiple coats - wax on wax off is total bs. Then a brush on coat of PVA release from a fiberglass trade supplier.

Gelcoat will not stick to a factory panel as long as you give it two coats of release (or cheap supermarket floor) wax plus a coat of PVA release. You just hose the PVA release off after molding & buff the wax.

@@BillsBuildandRace thank you!

It's the cheapest I can buy - from a wholesale supplier to craft shops. It's a cpottery clay designed to be fired (which of course I never do). I keep it soft by wrapping it in a wet towel & a plastic bag. That way it keeps for over 5 years and you can re-hydrate most of what you use in the wet bagging too.

@@BillsBuildandRace thanx. Great tip. I've done a few fiberglass molds, but never used clay before. Sure gonna try that.

One layer 225gm csm (8 oz.) then two layers 450gm csm (16 oz.)

@@BillsBuildandRace much appreciated thank you, is there any resins you prefer over another?

@@anerdfilmsco5970 Vinylester resins cost more, so I use Low Styrene Emissions (LSE), but any general purpose poly resin will do. Don't try & use any surfboard resin, as most have a solar activated catalyst.

Yes - and those repair kits are designed for boats and have the wrong cloth in them for car work. Just Google "Fiberglass materials suppliers" in your area to find a trade supplier.

You can, but woven fiberglass cloth does not work well on compound curves - it's really more suited to flat surfaces. I'll also bet you've only got it in a really light grade - if so it would require many many layers to get the same thickness & strength as chopped strand mat. Do yourself a favor. Use what I do in the videos. Shortcuts in fiberglassing or just using what you have rather than what the job requires only leads to frustration, wasted time & wasted materials.

Not to disagree with an obvious fiberglass Jedi, but, there are certain types of woven mat which allow for great detail within complex curves. It's very expensive compared to chopped stand, but a lot stronger. I say this because, the mess that chopped stand makes is incredible. After using it once, I would never use it again. Additionally, the airborne dust from repeatedly cut strand seems to stick around forever compared to the airborne dust from cut woven mat. You don't want to breath any of it, btw.

Music police.

Ahh

I lost 7 weeks with record breaking 45 degree plus heat wave day after day. Too hot to work, but back on the tools now. Saving for tiles.

So when are the videos rolling out again? I'm desperately waiting to see how it's coming along and what the end result will look like!!! I'm really enjoying all the content you are giving us and hope you'll keep up the good work! All the best from far away Germany! :)

Next episode is half done. There's no point me filming all the fiddly touch up painting I'm busy with now. Lots of it & time consuming & too boring to film.

I mis you mate. When will you be back with your home building?

WJP004 Hay, some of us don't have anything to do but watch paint dry. What you're doing is high drama comparatively.

I don't list what I use in each video as they are basically the same all the time & that would get boring. Watch my very first tutorial (see "Fiberglass Tutorials" in "Library" left on home page). These days I only list products I use that vary from those basic ones to avoid repetition.

WJP004 k thanks bro I appreciate it, I am currently making my own car from scratch with an LS 6.2 engine and was wondering if you had any tips as well on carbon fiber? Just wondering thx.

Carbon does not take up compound curves or tight bends without vacuum bagging and you can get small air pockets that spoil that reknown mega smooth gloss surface in the top surface . However there is still a lot that can be done hand laying it without vacuum assist and on parts which are to be painted and can therefore have imperfections filled & smoothed in the usual pre-painting ways.

WJP004 thanks that is a lot of help, will be watching your whole fibreglass playlist to find out more!!👍

Fenders usually require two piece molds. That is not too difficult, & I walk you through molding & making fenders in this video step by step. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r6mXfalytNKxiI0.html The proper name for what you are calling "hair" is Chopped Strand Mat (csm), which is what I use on 95% of my lay ups. Yes csm does take up bends more readily than woven mat, and it is totally unsuitable for compound curves - which is why guys who use it lay up a mosaic of tiny pieces. That wastes time, materials (due to the excessive overlap), and is just plain clumsy compared to csm. It's usually a sign that the user has bought their materials in a "kit" from a hardware store, rather than tracking down a fiberglass materials supplier in their area (just Google that). However fiberglass (even csm) does not like sharp ninety degree bends, as the cloth wants to stay flat and pulls back a little from the Gelcoat. Gelcoat has no strength without the fiberglass cloth, so the result is your Gelcoat peels & cracks away along sharp edges. The way to avoid this is to bevel sharp internal edges with car body filler mixed with a little resin over your dried Gelcoat before you lay on the cloth & resin. This reduces the sharpness of ninety degree bends for the cloth. I demonstrate this at 8.54 secs in the tagged video here.

I like that!

I'm not into cars as a hobby, had 3 exidents in Oz 2 with myself behind the wheel. But drove 1 and a half time around Australiä back in 1984. My brother Cas owned a coppy of that interceptor which they drove with in Mad Max 1

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Cottonmouth Timeshift... on You Tube

Well this has got to be the most dumb ass reply I've ever received... and I've got over 250 videos on You Tube. 1) "Custom" by definition means NEVER just bought off the parts shelf bolted on, or "EASY". It's the extra effort of doing it that makes it custom. 2) Can you please tell me WHERE I buy a one piece front end for a Honda? I'm not aware of any dealer in the world who sells one. 3) And where exactly do I go to buy an Integra front end widened to fit a Prelude? What a dipstick you are.