Hi, I had carried out ball joint change yesterday, couldn’t get ball joint in.....dumped the gearbox oil in the effort.Ended up removing arm again to consider options. Watched your video and hey presto 30 mins job done.... I was trying to lift hub against shocker with no success. I was levering but your technique was better... It was one of those days yesterday “ what a difference a day makes” Thanks for your help...

I fully appreciate seeing the struggle! Makes me feel like I’m doing ok with my struggle! I might try to give it another go this weekend after I gave up with the struggle last weekend lol

Good video. just did this job based on your video. Thanks. Took only 5 (!) hours for one control arm. These things are a pain!!!. To any weekend warrior reading this, I will recommend letting the mechanic deal with this. Swallow your pride and save your time. A few tips to those who attempt anyway: Make sure you have gearbox oil. The driveshaft WILL pop out. The balljoint will be pure rust and will not part from the hub as easily as seen on this or any youtube video. Consider buying a “wishbone lever”. This will help but be aware you must raise your car fairly high to use them. Buy at big chisel and cut the “chisel-shaft” in half. There won’t be enough room and a small chisel won’t spread the hub enough. Removing the outer tie-rod from the hub made it easier for me to slide the new control arm back in place. You will regret you began this job when trying to align the last bolt in the control arm. Keep trying. When popping the balljoint back in, it will pivot outwards and away from the hub. Keep trying with both a hammer and a jack. Eventually it will pop in place.

I had an absolute nightmare trying to replace the lower arms last weekend. I had my bar in the wrong place and didn't even think about smashing a chisel between the bolt clamp. I just didn't have enough clearence to get the new wishbone to go under the knuckle. I did the near side with a struggle but the offside was worse. I managed to get the ball joint about 3/4 the way in and literally smashed the bolt through the knuckle and shearing the bolt threads. I've ordered new bolts and will follow the procedure in this awesome video. I wish I found this video before I started work in the car. Thanks for sharing. You will make my life a lot more easier now. !!

Did a pair on a 206 cc 2 litre... real pain in the neck. Nice guide.

Great video, thank you. Currently in the middle of this job trying to get a 2001 206 back on the road after a 6 year park up!! Your tips are coming in really useful and the only bit I've struggled with was prising the ball joint out. Eventually attacked it from behind the wheel (stood by wing mirror for correct angle) and it's popped out no problem. Back to it now. Then cv boots and ABS rings!!!! No rest.

Thanks so much for what you do. This really helped with the front suspension rebuild on my 2003 SW. Also your heater core and brake change videos were great. No more leaks and no more squeaking. Thanks for giving me the confidence to work on my own car. By the way these 206s are good, got almost 300k km on mine and we take it through some pretty rough roads on long trips.

Nice and easy for us to follow you as you navigate/fight the car to get important jobs done that can be done at home. Will be doing mine on my gti thank you 😅

Thank you so much, a brilliant walkthrough! This video will be so useful once I finally get time to fix the steering issues on my pretty tired 206 after christmas

Great video, well explained . I did like the things you will need at the beginning.

Thanks, Piggy! I’m just about to tackle this very job, to get my wife’s little red car through the dreaded MoT! Another video, here on YT, showed the extra process of removing the Hub Nut and withdrawing the whole Brake assembly from the Driveshaft. I really didn’t want to have to do that, so I will be following your excellent guide! Wish me luck👍🏻👍🏻

if you have them, it's aT16 socket for the top 12:10 it comes out easily to the REAR of the hub. Also, its MUCH easier to refit, if you use coil spring compressors, as the wishbone inner bushes are designed to sit flat with the suspension fully compressed (weight of car of the wheels) so it you measure the hub position before jacking, and then compress at least that much, the bottom of the hub won't be in the way (as you found) also, this doesn't strain the inner bushes so much on installation, and so they with last longer.

Brilliant video! Thank you for such a great video helping me sort mine out! 😊👍

Great video very helpful thanks

Excelente trabajo. Saludos desde Argentina.

tip for some guys,,, buy new bolt and lock nut wen you buy your lower arm

The torx nuts where you use the grips; I find a 13mm spanner works great for holding them steady and undamaged ;)

Teşekkür ederim, dostum. Çok faydalı bir içerik. Tebrikler. İşin gücün rastgelsin...

Thanks for the great video man! I'd like to add some tricks I found useful: instead of a pipe, you can use a crowbar and put it against the steering ball. If the the ball joint pin of the wishbone has trouble coming out, you can try raising the hub with a jack and a piece of wood.

Хвала ти брате, Бог ти дао свако добро

Great vid! Thanks for the walkthrough. I've got it to do on my daughters 206. Nice to see what to expect. Thanks 👍

excellent. thank you.

I find that removing the shaft from the hub gives me a little more movement to get the front E torx bolt out and I use a 13mm spanner instead of the grips on the E torx bolt. I have tried the method of undoing the 4 subframe bolts a bit to lower it down for more movement but when the captive nuts start spinning, you begin to wish you hadn't touched them. Have you started on the fmic yet?

Hi there, I love your videos I live in Australia I have done the odd one or two lower control arm replacement, I used to be an Peugeot Mechanic. If you don’t mind me saying I used to release the tension on the 4 torx bolts that hold the k frame if you just lower them a little bit not totally just a little it will take the tension off the strut assembly enough to not make this job a painful experience.

Got quoted £370 to change these on both sides on my 206.. If I can't do it myself based on this tutorial she's going to scrap, no pressure Piggy! (oh, btw I've never done any work on a car, besides changing a tyre). I'll let you know how it went!

Piggy Power great video! But do you know if it is possible on a Peugeot 206 to replace just the ball joint itself as I cannot find information about that anywhere? With this video I could probably manage to replace the entire wishbone but only if that is the only option. (Would hate to mess up with the driveshaft..)

Going to do a 03 plate 1.4 auto for daughter. Are driveshafts the same and the dangers of them popping out?

the torque setting is 11 daNm for the two rear bolts and 4 daNm for the ball joint :)

Hi PP, just changed os arm, did you have any problems with the ns arm regarding the rear bolt fouling on the brake lines on the chassis leg when trying to remove it as it looks close to them.

Hello , is this a set change , or can you change 1 wishbone individually ?

thank you!

Hi, i follow your site and my daugnter has a 206. I did the heater matrix seals using your site. Not cured. Do u know if there are bulkhead drains. I can find 207 306 etc but not 206. Wandering if has one is blocked. Thanks if you can help

Tried doing this on the passenger side side and it did what you said about spilling gearbox oil oil over the place, i pushed it back in and it stopped leaking am worried I'v disturbed something or not put it back in properly, i got the new wishbone in place but couldn't line up the ball joint end to the hub so gave up and put the old wishbone back in which went back in easy because the bushes shit to bits it offered back up easily, every time i went to line up the ball joint it would spill gear oil, any tips?

Instead of the grip for the trx of the arms, i suggest you to use a 13mm, either with a socket or with the same kind of key you used to hold the 17mm of the ball joint, it does the work easier!

I have a terrible rattle on my 206. Think i am gonna do a full rebuild on the suspension this summer lol Front and rear. Idk what could cause rattle on the rear.

Have you known for ball joint not to clear, with arm levered down to full travel, was told to lower engine bed 25mm leaving bed bolt's in then ball joint clears housing.

Where I can find the idle sensor on peugeot 206 cc 1.6 2003? Please can you help?

so.. 206 1.4 sport (same car is it ?) what is the difference between the two wishbones listed ?? how do you know you have the right one ??

Should I drain the gearbox oil first?

I can’t get the tie rod end bolt off it just keeps spinning by itself. I’ve tried to use the trolley jack to lift the underneath of the tie rod end and the bolt does loosen but then just gets stuck. Any advice?

Looking to change them on mine, since I can't seen to find an annoying intermittent steering vibration that I get, I've balanced my wheels (They are centreless versions of the wheels on yours and can be annoying to balance) and have Bridgestone Turanza's all round so the tyres aren't out of shape. Had a new o/s driveshaft since the spring in the joint was snapped and causing an annoying ticking. But other than that can't seem to find any other problems with the suspension other than the bushings that are mounted on the subframe are really perished, and they appear to be original, hopefully I'll be able to do it on the floor 😅

which torx is up on bolt on wiishbone?

Thank you for a great walk through, you made it look pretty simple, let you know how simple when the other half changes mine....will get the swear tin ready though.

really helpfull. Il' do this job at the end of this month, thx so much, big hug from chile :D

well done! life would be a lot easier with a ramp!! LOL

i did remove it and transmission oil came out, is that a huge problem? can i just fill it up and keep going?

Try pushing the arm down to get the ball joint in the hub when you've just fitted Poly Bushes on the arm 😂😂 I had to put the joint in the hub first, jack the arm and strut up and swing the arm in the subframe.

Hmm, the eternal dispute... after watching, should I try this or leave it to a pro? 😅

don't forget you're doing this every year

Doing this now, the only issue I have is the torx and 21mm bolts are the opposite way round on my car lol, I've had to resort to, pinching the nut with molegrips and then using an adapter on a wheel brace to undo the torx, it's slow going haha

thought you were going to split some rubber a few times.

Hi, I have a 206 xs 1.6 16v with 260 k on the clock and 16 years, I've changed the lower control arm twice. This is a clear weak point of this car. Beware the rear axle is even worst especially on the SW models. check also the front anti roll bar, they usually failed with the lower control arm. chopped, mad : MCM fan ???

I wanted to do this on my 206 but sold it before I got the chance, I miss my 206 😭😭 tbh not really I love my 208

👍 Darek POLAND

Thanks, really great content. 95nm for the two bolts, 65nm for the pinch bolt. I watched this for those figures. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b9R-q5uU3b7Odmg.html there's also another 10 Mon fix & the gentleman takes the steering joint off to allow more freedom.

Der Kommentar ist nicht semantisch geladen, sondern unterstützt nur das Video und den Autor des Kanals.

Absolutely horrible to work on!