MatthewMCRepair how much did this kit run you?

Oh man, I can't imagine doing all by hand. I was even getting sick of sanding.

Thank you!

I need to get a dremel

I will try that, thanks.

Hahahaha that´s a good one!

Da dum chhh

Good ;)

CloneDaddy the Polish aluminum is a lot less bright!!

@@XXX-qk2cq; I just found it kind of cheap; in a quirky kind of way.

I cut the 2" discs from 5/6" discs with scissors.

Yes, it gets all over the place. Best to do it outside.

wear a mask.use an apron.

Possibly, however it would not be a quality job. Also, you are going to sling compound everywhere.

uhh, use a clear coat... not to sound like a jerk, but you already had the answer. go to an autobody shop and ask them what they use on aluminum parts and purchase some. Could also hit up a chrome shop, they might not have some on hand but will give you tons of advice on what to use on your parts based on what conditions they will be exposed to. I don't want to give you a LONGGGGGG answer as to the whys with background info as there are too many az-hats who cant read more than 4 words without complaining. BUT, for spokes and rims and cool covers, I use a standard metal clear-coat with several THIN coats left to cure after each spray.(follow manu's instructions.) For the hot parts, or parts that will flex from pressure, I will ALWAYS consult the experts doing that work for a profession as they always know the best product for that condition at that time. What I used 3 years ago is already outdated today as there are several more newer products. Since this video will be up for a long time, i wouldn't take a recommendation from here. Hit up the shops... OR ... just wash and wax on a regular basis. that works too.

Pre break your sand paper....??

Thanks!

Well said, thank you. I can't please everyone I guess.

There will always be haters. I see I wrote "commits" instead of "comment". Oh well. I already had some inexpensive things from Harbor Freight, so my equipment wasn't professional grade but the result was a lot better than I was expecting.

I dont understand the stupid comments . I am working doing the same work on my bike, actually the same part and a bunch of others. Great instructional video. Thanks for a video well done.

Your welcome!

jcreswick A bow tie, I presume?

I was going to ask the same; I have polished aluminum parts in the past and they've oxidized back to a matt finish in a matter of weeks. I'm assuming some sort of clear coat (2K for preference) would be needed.

Good tip, I'll try that.

Yes, I agree.

Check this video out, build your own vapor blaster: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prCZgcmGvqyliKs.html

Pretty much how any buffing goes.

Push part into wheel, it was able to reach it.

Bert, yes used it quite a bit on the other 2 covers I had to polish.

There might have been some clear on the covers, but most of it was long gone.

MatthewMCRepair true but the stripper also helps remove some of the oxidation.

I'll try that for the next engine LOL.

Dont forget the 'Jet wash and wooden welding rods'

True that!

Yes. Or it could have compound left on.

Haven't tried it however it would save a ton of time.

@@HTMR might a future video to revisit this topic with the use of a vapor blaster

Absolutely. This video was before I built my DIY vapor blaster: howtomotorcyclerepair.com/diyvaporblasterbuildplans/

Why don't you just fast forward a little bit.

I will add a coat of simichrome polish for protection.

Simichrome polish or acf-50

Cerakote Ceramic Clears air-cure is an option. Understood to be superior to traditional clear but I have not used it myself or seen the results over time.Initial results are impressive however.

Aluminum specific product btw

Definitely don't come polished from the factory. Vapor blast matte finish is more of a factory finish. I'll go over that in the next video.

Thanks. For the elbow grease, just go to any hardware store and ask for it :)

How much did you make doing it?

@@mikehunt783 probably not enough. I have a hard enough time doing my parts, I cant imagine doing other peoples. Though, triple trees are many mostly flat surfaces so not as bad as primary covers or other parts with many edges of various sizes. Those I think i would just blast them and then paint. I polished/repaired fogged headlights (plastic ones) and that was ~30 minutes per light with 8 grits and only made $22.50 per car. NOT ENOUGH to do that crap in the cold or heat of the outdoors. Sure as heck wouldnt do metal which can take all dang day for one silly part. Who want to pay $200 in labor for1 complex engine part or 2 covers? @ Jeff, dude, your a better man than me. No way. I would rather go weld stuff...

Yeah I should have gone finer on sandpaper. Just handling the parts make them dirty haha. Good enough for this bike.

Or guide coat. Good tip.

Come on he just learned how to strip it all off with all that brand new equipment Eastwood gave him for free! You can't expect him to know/understand the ramifications of what he did just yet. Let it sink in for a couple more months and then maybe he'll post a video about learning how to deal with bare aluminum

Wax is no replacement for anodizing. Wax does not last. Engines get hot. Wax and engine heat do not go well together.

You may just be able to put on a few layers of clearcoat which will protect the aluminum from corroding. Engine covers don't get scorching hot, so unless you are doing an exhaust or cylinder, it's going to be fine.

Anodizing is actually oxidized aluminum, Very thin layers of it with a dye in between the oxide layers

Plated pipe? Most likely you will need a buff wheel on drill or die grinder to do a pipe.

Cases and some other components came back from vapor blasting. Posting vid soon.

Can't wait to watch! Saves you alot of time in my experience. Allows you to focus on other things then spending an hour hand sanding case covers.

I'm starting to learn that lol.

No, you don't have to, that is why you can use elbow grease, much cheaper.

@@HTMR ore an old product called slipol, cost about 2$ 😂