Can't wait!!! Thanks guys

@@brackishindustries Excusme sir, My name is Arif, Iam from Indonesia, Can I buy your menzerna solid compound that you are using?

@@arifrahmanudin7081 hello arif, the menzerna dealer locator might be able to help you? I do not see any dealers located in indonesia, but possibly you could order from a dealer in a neighboring country? Check here: www.menzerna.com/dealer-search/

@@brackishindustries thank you very much 😁🙏

i guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!

Marpol pads are better

Good! There's more than one product out there. Use what works best for you

Haha thanks man! Those 3 all I use now and my results have never looked better!

Sure man ill try to cook something up!

Here's a few tips but first a couple things to consider; 1. If what you are working on is aluminum, Manufactured aluminum is a very imperfect process and different manufacturers may use different alloys to make it which can help or hinder the amount of clarity that you get in your reflection of the metal. (Cast aluminum is much more difficult to work with than forged aluminum) 2. The temperature and humidity are a factor in how well your polishing end result is going to be which can contribute to haze. Usually warmer/drier weather promotes a better finished product as well as less work time. 3. Was there previously a coating of some sort on the aluminum such as anodizing or ceramic coating? I see this alot with the forged wheel pickup truck wheel guys. They will get them ceramic coated and if you don't know its there it will create issues you won't see until you get to your coloring/finishing steps 4. If you sand the metal and do not fully cut your sanding out it can look hazy (look at it with an LED flash light this will usually help you identify sanding marks) 5. Lastly the compound bar and how to apply it (this one took me a while to figure out) the cutting bars I mentioned 439t and p14f are very greasy bars so they keep the surface fairly cool even though you're normally putting the most pressure and lowest work speed in this step. The 480 blf and the p175 are very dry bars on the other hand and because of that you need less pressure and faster working speed because if you're too slow you can overheat the surface layer of the aluminum opening up micro pores which appear as haze in the finished product Hope this helps! There's a Facebook group called spectrum polishing tips and tricks thats good for advice on challenges you run into along the way 👍

@@brackishindustries Thanks for the reply. I’ve been polishing aluminum 3 piece wheel lips for some time and compared to what people are getting from other companies, mine definitely do not appear as crisp and it irks me. I spend so much time and attention to detail just to see slight haze at the end. I appreciate the help though! I’ll figure it out one day.

@@laurab3406 what type of wheel? I do Lot of wheels

@@brackishindustries Mainly BBS wheels from RS,RC,LM’s etc. I may switch products. I’ve been using Zephyr.

@@laurab3406 okay I haven't done any BBS specifically but I've done plenty of 3 piece CCW wheels... I started with zephyr, love the company but after hundreds of hours of testing and my own fixing flaws I've found that menzerna works alot better for me and I'm able to create substantially better results with their compounds. I would give then and see if they work better for you as well. My suspicion is your haze is coming from tripoli

Thank you! On the makita vairable speed 9237c polisher I ran each compound as follows: -First cut: orange pad / 439t wide open (roughly 3200-3500rpm) -Second cut/color: blue pad /480blf wide open again (3200-3500rpm) -Final finish : white pads /p175 1800 rpm (this stage you have to slow down, dont exceed 2,000rpm the white wheels cannot handle any more speed than that!)

Brackish Torque Thank you for that! I figured you kept the RPM’s at the recommend specs according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. What made you choose to run a blue airway vs. a white untreated airway with 480BLF?

@@KINGRG1 no problem! So contrary to popular belief the primary goal of the stiffness of a buff is its ability to push the abrasive thats in the compound into the surface, most people think its the buff that is doing the "cutting" but its more so the compound. The compounds ability to dig into the metal and do its job is dictated by the amount of pressure and heat you can use to apply it... so the goal of the stiffness is to allow you to use as much pressure as you need to push the compound in to the metal without the buffing wheel collapsing in which case you lose your polishing edge. On a scale of 1-10, menzerna 439t has a cut rating of 8 and a gloss rating of 5 where as 480blf has a cut rating of 2 and a gloss rating of 8 and lastly p175 is cut rating 1 gloss 9 So by using a stiffer wheel for my second step with 480blf I am actually able to use the abrasives of the 480blf (cut scale 2) to refine my hash marks that are left over from the first stage of 439 and make for a much glossier finish than jumping straight to white wheels that are softer and collapse easier not allowing the compound to smooth out the previous step as well. Sorry for the lengthy response! Lol does this make sense?

I'm going to add that the wheels do have some abrasive property to them which is why you don't see anyone taking a stiff wheel and using it with a final finish compound or you will have noticeable marks from the wheel

Brackish Torque That actually made total sense to me! I’m glad you explained it to me to where I can grasp what technique is needed to buff aluminum. I pieced together a kit that is a copy of the DC Super Shine Kit over at Highway shine. So I’m getting an orange fast cut with 439T and a untreated white wheel with 480BLF to run on my DeWalt DWP849X. I want to spin 6k rpms but I don’t want the buffs to go haywire lol

320 and 600