Anytime!

Hey Billy thank you for the kind words! Yes when I sand i lay the pad as flat as possible on the cup, make sure to use an interface pad as I mentioned (goes between the sanding backing plate and the sandpaper and acts like a sponge) very little pressure is needed. You can get a cheap backing plate from amazon I prefer a 5" plate and the thread pitch you need is a 5/8 - 11. You can sand AND polish using the same machine (even though I didn't in this video) to keep cost down go to harbor freight and pict one of these up: www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html MAKE SURE ITS THE BLACK MACHINE MADE BY DRILL MASTER OR WARRIOR! (the red Chicago electric variable speed polisher harbor freight sells will not work with the metal polishing wheels) and yes I only used black magic for all 3 steps. To recap: Amazon for a 5" 5/8 - 11 backing plate, 5" soft density interface pad, 5" hook and loop sand paper (320,400,600,800) the polisher i referenced you can both sand and polish using the same machine 👍

@@brackishindustries Thanks so much for the information.

@@brackishindustries Do you have an Email I can contact you directly ?

Yes I bought one (model #2785-20) for doing touch up work on peterbilts, you could probably cut 1 yeti cup with one and that's it lol it's super power hungry. One fully charged 12.0 ah battery will last you about 10 to 12 minutes of cutting and it doesn't like pressure or it sends itself into overheat protection. If you want a tried and true 6k machine I strongly recommend a makita GA7021 I beat on mine worse than any grinder should be abused and they keep on going. When they start sparking, throw a new set of brushes in them and keep rocking

Yes, just takes a little longer

In my opinion the best way to go about polishing a knife blade would be to find a way to either clamp the blade in an area that won't be seen and begin polishing or If there is holes in it to fasten the handle to it, screw those holes into a piece of plywood and polish the blade while it's on the plywood. You don't want to take a chance on catching an edge and sending it flying. Something else to keep in mind is spectrum Alberta sells mini buffs that are about 5 in in diameter maybe six, either way these would be far better suited for doing something as small as a knife blade compared to the 10-in buffs that you see me using

Thanks for the tips makes sense. Will look into the smaller buffs@@brackishindustries

I never made a full length video on it but if you check out my valve cover video I sanded and polished the I beam trailer the same way

Thank you! What you say spray painted, did the cup come like that from the store or did you actually grab a rattle can shake it up and coat it? Reason i ask is the ones that come from the store that way are powdercoated which is very durable and hard to remove... If it was spray painted at home with a rattle can sanding will take it right off. These cups do need to be sanded regardless to get the cup to reflect this much mirror finish. If your cup came with the black coating I would recommend buying a new one that is the standard stainless finish and starting with that

@@brackishindustries you answered my question thank you. I have both, some tumblers I bought with the coating, and others I've spray painted myself. So thank you again for your response.

I've done a few of them, I use a tool called a jawhorse to hold them

Search "red max compound bar zephyr polishing" it will show up

I've seen a couple guys do glock slides and full 1911's absolutely bad@$$! One thing, you need to figure out what the base metal of the parts are that you are working with, if its anything other than stainless steel you'll sand off the protective coating and have to constantly hand polish to avoid rust and corrosion

The one i have is a newer model and they have 2 new stainless steel types, so im lucky i got a new gen instead of old gen but I didn't think further ahead about the rust issues, since its made out of that I guess I'll be fine 😅 I just want to be fancy lpl

Believe it or not polished stainless maintains its shine almost indefinitely now with that said sliding it in and out of a cup holder in your car daily will marr the bottom of the cup over time and to fix it all you need to do is repolish the bottom with buffing wheels. However the top will remain shiny. You will get finger smudges just from holding it which are easily removed with a liquid hand polish like zephyr pro25 and a microfiber towel 👍

@@brackishindustries awesome man thanks a bunch. I saw one subscriber question whether you offer this service for sale? Are you considering orders?

@@catalyst6245 i have thought about it actually. the only concern i have with offering this service and selling online or just buying them and having them pre-done is the time it takes me to do one is about 45 minutes to an hour to get them virtually flawless and thats if im flying through each step. so i could see selling them lets say if i could get about $50 for the service alone to justify my time and dealing with shipping etc. i just dont know how much of a market there is for taking a $10-30 cup and then then adding $50 to it

i have talked to friends who have paid that much to have them custom powdercoated.

I do it Alittle different now compared to when I started, I rotary 320 and 600 grit then I orbital 800 grit, reason being is 800 grit burns out too quickly to rotary. I really don't need the 800 but it definitely makes it MUCH easier to got through the sanding marks with the compound

@@brackishindustries thanks for that! Are you using the black bar on all 3 air buffs

yes

In order from first to last: 320, 400, 600, 800

WAAAYYY too fast for polishing! These wheels are rated to run about 2500 rpm max by the manufacturer, you'll see me running them at 6,000 rpm in some of my other videos but even that speed is flirting with disaster. You really need a 7-9" variable polisher and on a budget you can pick one up at harbor freight for $100 or less. I saw your other comment about your motor cycle parts, shocks are usually aluminum to dissipate heat so you should be fine, as for the trim around the speedo, you need to make sure it's not chrome plated. If it is, all you can do is rub liquid metal polish on it as the high speed wheels will strip the chrome and leave you with an undesirable outcome

@@brackishindustries ‘preciate the speedy reply bro.. so even the sanding is done slow?…2500 rpm? i thought u said ur angle grinder was 8500 rpm.. and as for chrome plated parts..my crash bar is chrome plated, and in one spot the plating is flaking away and its rusty underneath.. anything i can do about that?

@@zx9rmadman400 no sorry I may have mis-understood your question, the sanding I was doing is at 8500rpm in this video and that was on the stainless steel cup, stainless can take that heat/friction. Aluminum I recommend 5k max or less (if you're just starting a random orbital is probably a better fit as it's far more forgiving if you mess up) ....as for the polisher buffing wheels I'm using yes the manufacturers typically rate them at roughly 2500 rpm or less (liability) I have run them up to 6k never faster and count my blessings fortunately I haven't had one explode at that speed yet but I know people who have and its ugly. 3500 or less you should be fine but I would start slower and get comfortable at lower speeds before you try running a wheel faster

they have drill attachments for polishing wheels that you can use with polishing compounds.

Yes sir greg, just takes a little longer but far safer in regards to gouging the metal compared to the rotary. My recommendation is if you're gonna use orbital sharpie your cup in between every step and make sure you cant see a trace of sharpie when you sand before continuing to the next grit

@@brackishindustries how much would you charge for that I got 2 cups to do for a customer

How much would you charge to do that I got 2 to do for a customer

I dont see why not

No.. but from the demand in the comments maybe I should 😂

No thank you 😂

I wasn't necessarily concerned with the time involved but more so the level of reflection and clarity in the finished product. If you have a method that produces this same level of clarity and shine in the metal id be interested to see how you do it

I always wash them with dawn before using them dawn takes everything off since the compounds are primarily fat/grease based

Yeah I know 😂 all copyright free music thats allowed to be used on youtube sucks... if you know where I can find "good" copyright free music im open to suggestions