@C_Squared 6 жыл бұрын
these are some of the best videos on the tube. great refresher training.
@jeffreyvontobel6440 Жыл бұрын
How does this not have more views? Best vid I've seen on the topic.
@p.richter9592 6 жыл бұрын
Great video series. Thank you for putting them out there 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
@gustaverayl1811 5 жыл бұрын
quality instruction clearly presented, well done.
@DaveSearle Жыл бұрын
Hey everyone. Seems like a pretty complicated way of doing it to be honest. A 3:1 straight off the anchor would work great here and you can convert that to a 6:1 or 7:1. The rope is barely cut into the lip at all and with a backpack or a ski pole you could pad the lip and haul over that. Also this technique does not work if you have a short rope. For example if you have 15m of rope between you then you need at least 30m of rope on your body which means you need a 75m rope to perform this if both people have the same amount of reserve rope. Then 15m is the max you could have between you which is pretty short in some situations. This isn't the way I would teach someone personally but it's interesting to see how the AMGA guides do it.
@maycatyuiop 2 жыл бұрын
Keeping your pack tied to your anchor also doesnt hurt.
@Robert-no9jk 4 жыл бұрын
New to watching these kinds of videos. Rookie question. Why not just secure the ad back to your pack?
@TommyMacMXClimber 4 жыл бұрын
Question: after constructing anchor, and preparing to self belaying to edge of crevasse, why not do so with a lock-assist lightweight belay device like the Edelrid Mega Jul? Equally safe, faster to rig, and already on your harness (or should be, as you should always have a belay/rap device). And of course a catastrophe backup know down stream would be a good idea, but same with a prusik. Thoughts?
@HashFace253 2 жыл бұрын
Yea back dat anchor up *hip hop plays
@XPrincess30 Жыл бұрын
What if John is unconscious? How does he grab the rope then?
@Leander_ Жыл бұрын
Then you abseil down into the crevasse on your end of the rope and attach it to him yourself.
@Govanification 6 жыл бұрын
Was that a Yates v-shaped picket with the fixed steel mid-clipped cable?
@johngo6283 5 жыл бұрын
Govanification yep.
@hankg6955 6 жыл бұрын
Great videos, what model gloves is Jeff wearing in this video? Looks nimble.
@profd65 5 жыл бұрын
They're Outdoor Research gloves.
@richardschofield2201 2 жыл бұрын
Most of videos of this nature rely on an anchor using pickets, but surely you would never carry a picket up in to the mountains. Never seen anyone carry one.
@keithclimate Жыл бұрын
Are you for real? It's standard practice to carry a picket if you're going to be crossing a glacier.
@richardschofield2201 Жыл бұрын
@@keithclimate never seen one in the Alps. Maybe it's an American thing. My bag is as light as it possibly can be. This is pretty standard practice with Alpine climbing.
@keithclimate Жыл бұрын
@@richardschofield2201 Ok so how do you build an anchor for rescue? With your ice axe? That makes sense if you have a team of 3 (where someone behind you can hold the load as you build it) but what about if you have a team of two and have to both hold the load, and build an anchor? How do you do that without either a second ice axe, or a picket? If you're using a second ice axe, then that's going to weigh about as much as a picket.
@richardschofield2201 Жыл бұрын
@@keithclimate assuming you've caught the fall, transfer the load to your crampons so your holding your partner using your legs then dig your slot, bury your axe and then transfer the load to the axe using a prussic.
@keithclimate Жыл бұрын
@@richardschofield2201 Yeah, but that definitely adds additional risk. Having the ice axe handy throughout the anchor building process to go into arrest again if you need to would be preferable, no? Plus you could use the axe for additional things like probing and prepping the crevasse edge.
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