Here's "What not to do".........don't start with a cheap, or inferior gun! You'll just be adding one more variable to the already "crowded variables". In my opinion, the only gun to have is: Iwata LPH-400, 1.3 fluid tip, and LVX (orange) air cap. There's nothing you will ever do, that can't be done flawlessly, with this gun.......PERIOD! Be careful about your purchase, these are the most counterfeited gun in the world! I've received 2 of them, and 1 Super Nova over the last 3 or 4 years, and I could NOT tell the difference until I removed the inner seals!!!! Only to find out a real one wouldn't fit.

Nobody respects the old siphon fed guns more than me. It was all we had back in the day and if it weren't for them I'd never learned to paint as good or as versatile as I do. I preferred the DeVilbiss JGA-502 with a Sharpe cup. I actually painted a car with it about 10 years ago, just to see if I could still do it.............I used a shit load of paint & clear, and it liked to killed my arms!

@@rickciotti Yes!……I quit painting here in California when they banned K200 primer and those spray guns. That primer was amazing.

@@warren6172 What a coincidence..............I quit California in 1995 when O.J. Simpson was making a mockery out of our judicial system! :)

@@rickciotti back in the day when 3m had accuspray 10,12 models and so forth before the new plastic models today their guns were siphon and gravity along with the Sata NR72,75,KLA models! All models are legal and I have all! Cup position does not make them legal or not! They were and are HVLP guns! I loved my JGA also but when it came to painting full enamels "Centari" my Binks model 7 was it! Loved those full enamels days even the Dulux.

@@robertcrew2209 So, anything with the "3M" name on it just makes me cringe. Reason: Has nothing to do with quality, but everything to do with their unethical behavior! I (as a jobber) don't need "points back at the tail end of the deal", "vip tickets for a game", or "a race to the drain" because of other distributors cutting each others price due to the previous mentioned remarks. I go out of my way NOT to sell their products as a result. Accuspray was never one of my favorites. Now, the Binks #7.......... I was the exception to the rule. I never cared for that gun. Reason: Too wide of a fan. I know that sounds ridiculous, because everyone else loved it for that exact reason. I do, and did, use Binks # 62, and 69 models though. Both have been converted to pressure pot guns. The old Sata's you mentioned: Yes! I have a few, and still use an NR-95 down at Slix. I love the fan adjustment on the side, but next to the LPH-400, there is a major draw back (it pains me to say that). Stay tuned because that's the next thing I'm going to deal with............and I'm sure I'll be getting some negative response. I'm going to tell ya'll the TRUTH, and what you do with it is your option. Thanks for your participation, you sound like a guy who already knows what I'm going to say. :)

ULTRA MAGA :)

I am so sorry for that distraction! Faye warned me about that prior to filming but because the area in front of my cut in booth provided the best back drop for viewing a spray pattern, I had no other choice. I knew the pump would cycle due to continual draw, but I was stuck between a rock and a hard place. I should have raised my voice when it came on, but I was too stupid to realize that when it happened. :(

@@rickciotti for demonstration purposes only you can use water in your gun thereby you can use almost any area or room then just use some thinner afterwards to remove the water

@@robertcrew2209 What an AWESOME idea.............that's an example of how I learned so much, it came from people like you! Thank You :)

If you're asking if the Ospho will neutralize the rust, YES. However, once the rust is neutralized, something has to go over it to keep it from rusting again. How much of the car has this issue? where is it located (ie; roof, fender, hood, etc.) If you send a pic to : rcpaintspot@reagan.com (my e-mail), I can tell you exactly how to proceed. Rick

@@rickciotti I sent you an email. Thank you for replying.

@@rickciotti did you get the email?

@@timb3925 I was out of pocket and didn't get to your reply until now Tim (sorry my friend). Anyway, I sent you a detailed plan of attack :)

@@rickciotti thank you, I replied back

I look at it like guide coat (I prefer lacquer btw)..............it's a tool, and used properly, your work will always be "consistent". :)

NO. Doesn't matter what's in the gun, the optimal air pressure stays the same............ unless you're using a different kind of gun. That's EXACTLY why I prefer the Iwata LPH-400 :)

Can you do a video of you painting?

@@abisaigutierrez6246 Sure, I think I did on Fayes Supra.

A "paint gun" atomizes the paint so that it orients evenly. Part of the equation is the fluid tip size. A "primer gun" doesn't need to atomize, it needs to move material for "build". Because the build characteristics of primers are made up of Talc or Resin, or both, you need a larger fluid tip than a paint gun. I used to use old paint guns for primer, and that's a BAD idea! You'll reach a point where you're up against a wall, or you'll have to sacrifice your work because you're too cheap to buy the right tools! My primer gun is an Iwata "Air Gunsa" with a 3.0 fluid tip......it's the only primer gun you'll ever need. There's way too many viscosity primers out there, and you can dial a 3.0 down, but you can't dial a smaller tip UP...... it's basic math.