thanks!

Air level????

That's disappointing you had that issue. Glad this video helped out!

will applying grease to the seals attarct dirt on the inner tube for a few days

@@ranvirsinghnetam8584 Not a fan of using grease myself as will attract and hold dirt/grit. Prefer quick wipe down after or before riding and light oil application to remove dried grit in reducing risk of damaged seal lip.

For the question above, add, with forks installed in the field through the bleed hole?

No, not at all

De nada! Estamos felizes que o video ti ajudou!

Your comment was a while ago but replying for others as well. I had this same issue. The small brass pin inside of the cap has threaded out and disengaged from the knob on top. It only happens on the compression side because it is reverse threaded from the rebound side so it unthreads when removing the cap. You can lightly thread the brass pin on the under side of the cap back in by turning it left (not right). Once you feel it stop, rotate the adjuster knob clockwise and it should engage and thread the brass pin down into the cap and then bottom out. This NEEDS to be corrected before reinstalling the cap or the compression will not be adjustable.

Yes. Except in this case the cap is solid, so there are no internal parts to risk damaging.

Just use the fork cap wrench...50mm

Tnx

I have it the same on mine

For anyone else - no. That's why he demonstrates how to check them for wear. If the Teflon surfaces are intact, leave em.

Take fork cap off and look underneath for a little brass piece that has come unthreaded. It will either tighten by going clockwise or counter clockwise, cant remeber which side is which thread.... But get that brass piece threaded in again and bottom it out and then run clickers and see if the brass piece moves in sync with clickers.

I'm having the same issue, I have no dampening, did you get you issue fixed?

yes

Did you find out, that’s what I’m looking at doing rebuild on

correct! thank you!

You can do what’s called a dump and run. Loosen top clamp pinch bolts. Loosen the fork caps a little. Take forks off bike. Take the fork caps off per the video. Take out spring. Drain oil out per video. Let forks sit upside down and gravity drain about 10 minutes. Pump them a few more times. Drain. If you’re feeling froggy you can spray some Maxima suspension clean in there and drain it out. Sit fork with bottom on ground between your knees. Have the outer tube slid down about halfway. Pull up the cartridge until it gently stops. Put in oil amount recommended by manufacturer. Might have to do a little at a time. Work damper rod up and down slowly to get the air out. Do that a bunch. Finish up the oil. Some manufacturers want you to measure oil height, some just say a ml amount to put in each leg. Put spring spacer back in. Put spring back in. Reinstall fork cap. Seal it up. Repeat for other leg. Basically you’re going to skip taking the cartridge out of the fork and popping the inner and outer tube apart. If you’re oil is just beat, but your seals are good, you can do a quick service like this. But on the next service I would do the full procedure. If you’ve never taken apart before take photos as you go of how things came out.

You could also take the cartridge and base valve out, but skip popping the fork tubes apart. That would let you spray out everything real good. Then reassemble and do the oil and bleed. I’m a big fan of Maxima suspension clean spray. Doesn’t hurt rubber or o rings and cleans all kinds of gunk out. I get two cans per service.

did you find the answer to this question?

Yes, that's the correct part number. We are just waiting for more stock before they are back on the website.

2017 TX300.

TE300...TX has AER forks

Correct. TE

What forks does Tx 125 2017 use

Mine does this also? Plus no spacers in either tube?

With some of those special tools, there is a little square near the head of the wrenches that fits a 3/8" socket, so you could use a torque wrench. Or just feel it out

Go by feel. 15- 30lbs Snug is snug..,

He gives the fork oil volume

I have the same issue, I thought I lost it

I just did mine last night because my suspension collapsed maybe 2 inches after a race this sunday and I also have the same concern. Can anyone answer and let us know if this is normal. The bike is a 300 tpi 6days

Also mine don't have that white plastic spacer that goes before the sprig

I have just did a rebuild to my fork legs and have the same situation as you guys are desribing. No spacer in the compression leg and no damping either. Not sure about the spacer, but no damping thing is fine for me

@@ptr82 Anyone reading this now, there is no spacer (teflon washer) on compression side but there is on the damper side. Also on one side when you are deleting air in the oil system, there will. not be any drag on one side but there will on the other - completely normal. Rocky Mountain did an amazing Job on this video but wish they would have explained these items as a lot of people are confused. In addition, on these particular forks, you do NOT need to set ring oil position. Just install the correct amount of oil and then delete the air appropriately

No Air in this fork! This is WP Xplor 48 not AER

@@fiddler181-twowheelin3 level air.....110mm

Go take a cold shower!

It will vary depending on your bike but we put 20.62 fl oz (609.8 ml) in each of these forks.

@@rmatvmc obrigado pela atenção.🤙🤙🤙🤙

@@rmatvmc how much level mm ???

Check your manual, but in my fathers 2017 TE 150, its 610ml. Although in my 2019 TE 150, its more than that, so check your manual