I have 3 AU's in my care at the moment. 2 of the 3 had leaking front seals. One of the AU's (my mum's car with only 120k on the clock) has an idle stumbling issue which after hours of investigating found it was caused by leaking oil from the front crank seal onto the crank position sensor. I only worked this out after changing idle control valve, spark plugs and leads ofcourse.😂

The reason they don’t put holes in there is to keep people out of there that don’t know what they’re doing. That’s the main reason that’s why they quit putting dip sticks in motors they have no dip sticks whatsoever they have scanners you have to get the motor tranny at a certain temperature before you could check the levels they have universal dip sticks they have transmissions with no filters, the only way to replace it is terret down and rebuild it in the filter is the last thing you replace people don’t know how to add the correct fluid in the right area. They add motor oil with brake fluid transmission fluid with your radiators people just don’t know how to use common sense anymore and think and read, that’s why technicians get vehicles did the braking system have been contaminated cooling systems been contaminated because simple fact of the drivers air now it’s going to cost you thousands because you didn’t know what you were doing. You should’ve took it to somebody that knew knew the system very well a technician dealership don’t listen to Joe blow or shade tree Mike vehicles have changed drastically. There is a reason why they don’t have Phil caps dip sticks in vehicles anymore or you have to have pumps to fill transmissions to fill motors evacuated systems to take your engine oil out.

Very true, especially if you are going to be doing many falcon balancers. Just a very expensive initial outlay i guess Too pricey for me anyway.

With crank bolt out. The screw part of the puller tool has a dome which fits into the the space where the crank bolt sits.

@@ozgarage956 thanks

@@ozgarage956 Hey mate have you possibly gotten the exactly bolt specs by now?

@@dannypetrovski6816 Bolt thread specs or length aren't important, main thing is the bolt head locks under balancer.

@@ozgarage956 Hey mate it's all goods I got it in the first try, I just used some nice thick m12s got right up into it perfectly the only problem is I needed to grind out a bit of the puller part where the bolts go through, worked a treat though thanks so much mate this is what was holding me back from finally being able to strip down my motor for the build, you're a legend saving me 200

Nothing. Just thought while the engine was out i'd replace the front crank seal and rear main. The balancer was still perfecvtly intact.

You can’t tell what’s wrong with that balancer it has a small cut in the metal. Basically you just take a little emery cloth and buff it out and take your seal. Take the spring out and tighten it up a little bit. Yes, you can tighten your seal up the spring tension. The only way you’ll know is if you do it every single day I’m not going to explain in a detail how it’s done or where it’s at or why because it seems like you’re asking a question that you don’t even know by looking at the harmonic balancer, and this guy thinks you have to replace it every single time no little emery cloth will straighten the problem out or sandpaper

want to buy my mates bf xr8

@@ozgarage956 na mate its alright