One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.

One of the best ways to get the board in the slot is to put one end inside a slot at one end of the trailer and put a hydraulic jack with a short piece of board just a little less wide than the boards that you are putting on the floor, under the trailer underneath that board about one third of the the length of the board from the end that you have inserted into the slot. Then jack the plank up while a helper holds down on the far end and the board will bow in the middle and when it is bowed enough to slide under the other slot you can let it down slowly and it will go right in the slot. Done this many times. It helps if the planks are fresh so they will be more moist and will bow more easily. Good job on your video.

Here's a tip that'll save you having to grind all those welds loose & re-weld them on that piece flat bar if you ever have to re-deck that trailer or another trailer where the boards are secured the same way. Don't cut the entire piece of flat bar loose. Simply make one cut through it about center ways & in between two welds on the flat bar. Then fold it up just enough to get the boards in the frame. Slide a board in under the flat bar at the rear & drop it the gap you just made at the front. Slide the board to one side or the other & repeat that til the last board sits in place where you made the gap. Hammer the flat bar back down & weld the cut back up. Not that removing the entire piece of flat bar won't work, but on my trailer, I couldn't get in the corners with a cut off wheel to cut the welds.

This video was raw ! Thank you

Why not scale the rust off the trailer while the boards are out and lay a new coat of paint or undercoat on the rails? Great deck replacement video.

My wood laid in a 3" L shape angle at the front of the trailer, then a 1" L angle bolted down across the front of the trailer that held down the wood. Used 8 - 2x 8 x 10 ft treated boards and left a half in space between the board for movement. Used all stainless steel bolts/screws with lock nuts to hold middle down. Anyone could cut the metal and put a Lshape angle over the top of the front as I did and bolt it down to save from getting a welder. Then too you can replace the next boards with no fuss.

Dang you work fast! BTW... that pry bar you used at first looks a lot like a sledge hammer :)

At 5:12 why did you have to bend up the angle iron at the rear? I would've thought your boards would slide right in since you removed the lip at the front. And at 5:30 you mention welding your front flat iron ("lip") back in place but is that necessary? Couldn't you pop 4 or 5 holes across the iron and just put heavy screws or bolts through the iron and into the boards? Then, next time, you just remove the screws, lift the iron retaining lip, put new boards down, and put new screws in. Or am I missing something?

Hire him, he works fast.

One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.