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I like to use white vinegar for rust removal, works very well, is cheap and not toxic.

Up here in Ontario, Canada several ways I remove rust. (1) Metal parts like Snow Blowers, Lawn Mower Decks and Car Parts. Parts disassembled. I strip the paint with paint remover, then use muriatic acid to eat into the heavy rust. I keep brushing the acid on until it's all clean then wash with water. The Navel Jelly or a mild acid is then used to prevent flash rust once water is used. As per video sun or heat gun to dry metal. Then use a metal primer. (2) Electrolysis! A tub of water is used. Part hangs on a hook in water. Part is hooked up to a car battery charger. Part is charged negative. Waste pieces of steel are hung around the edge of the plastic tub and wired in series.the waste steel pieces are charged positive. Job sits 24 hours, all the rust is transferred from part to waste steel plates around tub. At this point you need to use SOS soap pads, scotch bite, or a wire brush just to clean the black dirt left.

Thanks for the helpful information Wray. I very much appreciate it! Greetings from The Netherlands. I wish you all the best and stay healthy in this terrible pandemic.

Excellent content-as usual !! Thanks, Wray.

I work as a wire rigger for a company that serves the local fishing fleet with all they require for putting to sea over in the Shetland isles off the north of Scotland. We stock gallon drums of both hydrochloric and phosphoric acid for cleaning rust streaks and components on the trawlers. The hydrochloric is very strong and great for quickly getting rid of heavy rust but needs to be neutralised quickly after use or the steel will rust even quicker. It's also dangerous to use and you must use protective clothing and also use outside on a windy day, as it'll burn the insides of your nose, throat and lungs!! The phosphoric is good to use after the hydrochloric has done the hard work as it will leave a slightly protective coating. I've also used catering strength vinegar which I get from wholesalers. This stuff needs to be watered down 25 - 1 before it's fit for human consumption! It's cheap, safe to use and can be used to fill a tank for overnight soaking. The only drawback is your garage may smell like a fish and chip shop! Great video and fantastic channel, thank you for taking the time to make all these videos and sharing your knowledge.

Thank you sir. Thank you! You have no idea what you have done for me and my project. It's actually my dad's but I'm gonna finish it now thanks to you

this is THE question "how to remove rust". Cool tip, thanks for sharing !!!

After total of 19 years in testing work big trucks and 2 yrs in welding and metal strength this is a good video

A light coat of Fluid Film, on bare steel will keep it from rusting for many years , and it is body shop safe ! I coated my drill press column years ago and it still looks great.

Thank you, nice to know we are not alone in our battle with the Rust Demon! All the tips were great. Have to work on an old band saw I rescued myself.

ACF 50... brilliant at keeping corrosion at bay especially when storing metal (any metal) parts. Hundreds of uses, you'll love it.

For a very inexpensive, very effective immersion rust remover, try citric acid. It comes as white crystals (looks just like sugar) which you just dissolve in water. The stuff I can get most easily is food grade (it's the flavouring in lemonade). 10kg was about £30 delivered, and that goes a very very long way. Enough for hundreds of litres, and more than enough for my all the non bodywork parts for my car restoration project which need rust and / or zinc plating stripping . The project is a total strip down, with me removing all rust and zinc plating form all other parts of the car via this method (I've had all bodywork stripped professionally via pyrolysis oven and phosphoric acid). I also only sandblast (actually aluminium oxide blast) parts which fit in my small blasting cabinet, and which are not body panels. Dissolve enough citric acid crystals for it to get to about 3pH, which is about as strong as it gets. That's not acidic enough to burn my skin, although I don't intentionally get it on my hands, and if I do, I rinse it off. I remove all loose rust with wire brushes, and thoroughly degrease first. The citric acid removes all remaining rust or removes the plating from most parts overnight. It's as good as any commercial immersion type rust remover product I've tried, but far cheaper. No scrubbing or residue to remove. You can speed the reaction considerably by heating the citric acid to about 60-70 degrees C, and it is also very effective at removing zinc plating. You can re-use the acid many times - I usually only change it because mould has started growing on the surface, rather than because it's stopped working. After rinsing the parts off thoroughly, remove the majority of the water with an old towel, and put them in a cardboard box with the opening pointing sideways. Put a fan heater around 6" away from the box, aiming into it, and leave it on for half an hour. Inside the box can easily get to 50 degrees C, and heats the parts fairly evenly all around, so there is no need for turning them or any other effort. I never get any flash rusting form the rinsing drying them this way, as long as I've got them drying within minutes of rinsing.

I've restored a dozen cars and I use Ospho, acid a liquid, In gallon jugs, spray it on with a used hand sprayer, like window cleaner, let it stand til dry. Sand lightly then paint. Rust is a living thing, this stuff is great and lasts forever. You can find it In gallons or quarts in boat supplies stores or paint stores. After it dries it will last for years if kept in a dry place I have a sheet of steel in my shop since 2004 and is still rust free. A gallon will cost about $25 , but will last for years. My dump truck bed stayed rust free after regular applications when not in use.

Great job showing about moving rust , I learned something I did not no. Thanks and have a great day

Thanks for showing what works! Everybody has a snake oil for rust. Appreciate seeing this!

Thank you Wray I learn a better way of doing things in your videos I never sandblast sheet metal ,I agree totally

Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience!

I’ve always giggled seeing Le Car in the background of your videos wondering why it would be taking up valuable shop space!

You have some great ideas...THANK YOU

Excellent info. Thank you very much.

Good show. You are the type of vendor I could trust!

I like to use electrolysis for ferrous metals. You just need sodium carbonate (washing soda), sacrificial steel (like pieces of expanded steel sheet), a automotive battery charger, water, and a non-metal tank large enough to hold it all. I’ve decrusted parts as big as a class iii trailer hitch before priming, painting, and fluid film. It’s especially effective on the inside of channels where it’s hard to reach. Non-toxic too.

Thanks ,I have a 1978 Camaro to restore and the roof has a lot of heavy rust but still solid.

Love the channel and the content, please keep it coming, what do you think of the pressure washer attachments that pick up sand and blast the part clean?

Thanks for Sharing... Very Helpful

Thank you Ray! Great stuff always! Working on derusting a 1970 Camaro...Do I have to prime with epoxy primer right after this kind of treatment? Car is outside and don't have a garage. What do you recommend? Can I call you please?

Great information. Thanks for sharing.

Great info. The 34 Ford fender looks like the one we copied in class years ago!

Thanks for the great tips!!

Who says "Rust Never Sleeps?" This guy has perfected a technique which at the very least makes it take a lengthy nap! Thanks for sharing the tips!

Great tips. Thanks.

Ah! Ze Renault Le Car? I see the guys up in Canada on the Cold war motors channel resurrected one which was in pretty nice shape ,for a winter beater. 😁

Great video!!! Thanks!!

To restore my old 71-73's mustangs parts, I have this permanent bath with water/phosphoric acid used over and over. I drop the parts in and they're ready for the next day. For the body/big parts that you can't submerge, I have stopped using gels. Instead, after a good degrease, I brush a mix of water and acid that I buy per quart at 75% +-50-50, and keep it wet by spraying a mix of water with 20% acid every now and then to keep it wet. After few hours, I rinse with soda/water. then air dry/heatgun. Much less efforts and better results than with gels requiring extra brushing to keep the contact to surface. Two liters/quarts ($25) were enough to bring back to life/save hundreds of original rusty parts and hardware of the 2 cars. (which I then zinc plate before paint)

Hello and thanks for sharing your knowledge. U did not get the brand of the concrete and metal prep. Could you help on this, please? Heinz

The worst humidity and risk of rust here in the UK is the moment bare metal is exposed to the atmosphere atany time of day, 24hrs a day, seven days a week and 365days a year and for every year!

can I use the spray you use from homedepot on a smoker offset grill ? I have some surface rust its like little dots.. or spots... can I spray and use steel wool and wipe off ? Thanks. or do you think I can use something else ?

I agree with other comments on Citric Acid for immersion. But for a specific spot on a weight plate or barbell, the jelly you used would work well. Does the jelly also take off any original paint or just the rust? Great video! Thanks!

Thank you Sir great video so many brands if rust convertors some prepare the steel for painting others require a primer sealer I agree steel can be a nightmare you have great knowledge thanks for sharing Sir

To prevent rust on machine tools I use New finish the once a year car polish in the orange bottle, two coats keeps my mill, lathe etc rust free a very long time.

Very good demonstration.

After you remove rust like on your Jaguar frame is priming enough until you sell and install it? What do you use on your cast iron bandsaw table. I use just car wax. Is there anything better? Thank you very much for all your great sharing of your knowledge.

Beautiful work on the band saw! Breaks my heart to see a cast iron machine go to scrap, or worse, left to continue to rust outside. I've used a weak mix of white vinegar and water to clean steel and iron parts of a Southbend Lathe as of late.

Great tips , appreciate it, one of my arch nemesis - rust !!

Didn't know about the soap! New to me knowledge.

Before you get goop everywhere, try a piece of tinfoil folded into a square and a small bucket of water. Get the part wet and rub the tinfoil in circular motion. "Just liked wetsanding". A dark paste starts to form. Its cleaning the rust off and making its own polishing compound. I detailed a spot rusted Harley like this! Amazingly simple!

Hi Wray. Well , l wasn't expecting that ! You're so right , this is the real downside to steel. And sandblasting ......no thamk you ! I did a couple of cars and you just could not get rid of the sand and in spite of thorough air blasting it would inevitably end up in the top coat ! I rebuilt a Jaguar MK lX and the customer had the boot lid sand blasted . It was distorted to the point of being scrap but l managed to save it by judicious shrinking . I restored an XK 140 and had to remake the bulkhead . Is that metal frame the bulkhead /door hinge frame ? Thanks Wray. Take care and stay safe.

Nice presentation.

I've found the liquid Phosphoric work much better than any gell as it penetrates and allows the conversion reaction to take place quicker and deeper. Once the iron oxide has been converted to iron phosphate it seals the remaining iron/steel and prevents further oxidation no need to neutralise with detergent just wipe off excess with a damp rag. Once dried and scale removed it can be primed and painted.

Brillo pads work good for cleaning the metal, because there is something in the soap that they use that seals the metal and prevents the rust from coming back.

Great video👍👍👍thank you for sharing

I just wire wheeled my entire truck frame with a angle grinder, degreased it then naval jellied the entire thing and it came out fantastic.

8:17 If a person want's to preserve paint try using Bar Keepers Friend in the powder form... not the liquid. Little water, little BKF and you can knock most of the rust out. At least reduce it down to the worst spots where a different solution may be needed.

Try using regular house hold vinegar, dry it real well and put some car wax on it. Sometimes on really rusty parts, i soak them for a few days scrub them, dry them, then with a wire or brass brush, clean them down to a bright metal finish. The metal cleans right up. If you want you could rinse with a basic solution made with baking soda. I'm from CT and have high humity since we are nearer Long Island Sound.

What is rust? I live in Las Vegas. Definitely glad I don't have to deal with that. Anything rusty around here came from somewhere else!

Great video thank you

.......watched Robert Murray Smith using water pressure sandblasting . Then he also rigged up a rotary tumble sand cleaner, then vibratory sand cleaner. I got a u toob ad recently for not sandblasting but dry ice grains used instead of sand . My theory also is that acrylic paint contributes to rust as it ages and gets changed by the elements .

Good video for the beginner staring his first project.

thanks a million

I have been using phosphoric acid for many years. The acid reacts with the iron oxide (which is porous) and leaves a layer of iron phosphate which is not. Once it's dry it is a decent primer for painting. Naval jelly it's just for vertical surfaces. The only problem is that iron phosphate is water soluble and goes away if left outside. I actually leave my steel parts to rust a bit and then acid wash them to have the protection layer or as a primer. And you might get lucky and buy a lightly rusted piece at a discount.

I am a fan of doing the best u can do to control or inhibit rust ...

I'd like to see the phosphoric acid on the fender would that work on metal that think or is it just for simple thin metal?

These days lasers are the latest and greatest thing for rust removal if you're willing and able to pay for the technology, for which the cost is pretty steep at the moment, but it does work better, cleaner and in much more user friendly fashion than sand blasting and other methods. For surfaces such as the interior of that Renault hood however, your method makes more sense. I do love using Naval Jelly for paint or rust removal.

Applying automatic transmission fluid to raw metal does a great job preventing humidity rust from forming. It doesn't do much to remove rust that is already there though.

I've been using that concrete etch on small parts for years... I just pour it into a plastic container and dump all my nuts, bolts and small stuff in... An hour later it looks like brand new... If there's something that won't fit in the container, I soak a paper towel in the acid, then lay that towel on the part that needs to be cleaned. Makes the liquid work like the jelly. You did a wonderful job on that band saw.

Molasses at 1:9 with water works as a very slow (days/weeks) gentle rust remover on large panels & can help preserve paint on them as well.

Hi Wray, Great video very informative, thanks. Have you not tried soda blasting, using the coarse, industrial grade? It's big here in UK, fashionable even, but I first used it early 1970s, when I lived near the chemical plant that made it. Low impact, no damage & can be washed off, prior to acid spray. Also popular over here is a citric acid blend, Deox-C.

LOVE IT!!!!!

I have some moisture rust under my 1990 fox body will this do the job the spray under my car body

I highly recommend Drycoat by a company called Metal Rescue from Howell Michigan to prevent flash rust on steel. Simple as spraying it on the clesn steel and letting it dry. Wipes off with thinners and leaves no silicone residue. I have a panel I worked out on a bag over 5 years ago that hangs on my garage wall..still no rust.

Have you ever tried dustless sandblasting, walnut shells, soda blasting or electrolysis methods? Wondering if they really work. I assume you dont blast the hood because of the heat warping it? Thanks.

I often wonder whether or not it’s more cost effective to just prime the parts if they are going to sit for a while to prevent having to clean rust off.

the metal moth is always lurking around steel. What do you think of using electrolysis to restore metal parts? Another method, which seems unlikely, but appears to work, (KZfaq videos), is soaking parts in a molasses solution. Have you tried that?

Ospho works best similar to the concrete cleaner or fast etch from eastwood with zinc for storage of parts.

Thanks for the tips. I see my impatience has caused my lack of success and use of these products.

Shrink wrap is cheaper and wider than kitchen wrap.

White vinegar slowly too. Pour the vinegar on the hood and come back tomorrow. Cheap too.

Great video, thank you so much for sharing this process! I didn’t know you could go to Home Depot and get that metal prep or use the navel jelly on thicker stuff. I work in my garage in western mass and am searching for a solution for removing heavy scaling surface rust from a car I sanded to bare metal 2-3 years ago that’s getting prepped now for primer. I’ll give this method a try thanks again!

How about the newer laser surface cleaners

Love it

After using your tools like dollies and hammer do you oil them with motor oil or what?

Have you ever used por15? Could you do a demo video on that?

Great video I didn't learn anything but excellent presentation I get my phosphoric acid from the farm chemical store wy cheaper

Boeing developed a paraffin based spray to protect aircraft parts in the airplane "graveyards". Boeshield T9. You can get it at Woodcraft. Good for tools that don't get used often also. Comes off easily with mineral spirits.

What about rust conversion that Eastwood sells

I'm thinking this may work on the frame of my 56 Chevy, as long as it does not mess up the sealed concrete in my shop floor! ;)

If I do this on a small portion of a very light new rust inside a gas tank. Would I have to seal the metal after? Or can I just run gas

What's the chemical i use: coca cola!

I learned that cleaning vinegar works well still some elbow grease ... If you want to do it chemical free ... Get sone cleaning vinegar at Ace hardware ... Blessed !

Purple power works well to..

Why would sandblasting destroy the Renault hood?

I had to laugh at the comment about using a kiddy pool to immerse the parts in. I did that with my electrolysis system once but imagine my great surprise when the 1942 coupe fender I put into it happened to punch a hole in the side of the pool when it was filled. The plastic of those kiddy pools is really pretty thin, so be careful as you put on parts which may have sharp edges as my coupe fender did at the time. Thanks for the memory jog. Thanks for posting the video and it being easy to follow, as well. I have a 1925 Model T roadster which needs rust removal done to a whole lot of it. I'll start on the inside of the passenger door as a trial piece to play about with. Also, do you have any recommendations as to what to do for filling in rotted wood? Some say Bondo is cheap and works as well as anything else on the market. I have some wood to the door which can be filled in to better secure the wood once the rot is dremiled or cut away and then treated. Any thoughts on this technique for saving old wood as much as possible? Thanks. Very nice video presentation.

So what would you recommend for chrome wheels?

A rough up with a wire brush would have given the rust remover a better key.

Why not use a wire brush attachment on a drill for the areas that have deeper pits? is it too aggressive?

Hello thanks for the tips Just wondering I purchased a smoker And it has rust on the inside And a bit on the outside For such a large surface what technique would you suggest?

I wish someone would do a video like this in Australia with Australian products because NONE of the products you guys show in the US are available here.

Have you any experience with rust converting primers or paint

Great job just Use the PUR 15