thank you bill... praying for uncle..

My father died of cancer two years ago, my mother has this issue in her house. I plan on trying to fix it myself to save her the costs of hiring a professional.

so cool casey! love the feedback..so glad it worked out for you... appreciate the comment!

Did he use a circular saw or a sawzall? I thought he used a circular saw. I need clarification before tackling this!

hey Jonathan! that's so awesome you found me...thanks for the heads up...need to door the 7 ' 45 door. Im glad the video helped you and Thanks so much for sharing!

@@homemend I thought some more about this last night, and now thinking about returning the PT wood and getting Douglas fir instead - lighter and easier to work than wet PT, and I can prime and paint it right away instead of waiting months for the treated wood to dry out enough to finish.

Shortly after that note, I went back to the store, picked out half a dozen clean straight douglas fir boards, brought them home and brought the treated wood back. Got some Kilz exterior primer as well -- planning to prime front and back and the exterior edges, and leave the long back edges unfinished so any remaining moisture in the wood can escape as the wood ages.

that is awesome jonathan! i doo like non PT for trim/jamb work on a home. thank you!

you can do it mrs white!

Jean-Pierre White of course jean Pierre! Thanks for the comment!

thank you and thank you! everyone loves jack black! and thanks for watching!

@@homemend I don't love Jack Black. I really can't stand the guy. You, on the other hand, are great.

That is so awesomR So glad the video helped you. Thanks so much for commenting

Thank you my friend

thanks so much for commenting!

thank you devell! love to share..i appreciate the comment!

Thank you el! Appreciate the comment!

absolutely jugger! so glad you could save some money! enjoy!

You are awesome thank you Roman

hey select! if you have a critter problem you may want to seal with exterior grade sealant...i like quad myself but never foam..too messy. you got this!

thank you sir! appreciate the comment!

Thank you kristyn! So glad it helped you.

thank you michael!

Great suggestions derby! If you are painting, priming on both sides is a great idea.. thanks for sharing!

awesome tbone..sounds like you rocked it! thanks for sharing friend..

Thanks for sharing

thanks for commenting ril!

Hey Donnie check out that metal rap video that I have in the library. It talks about who can bend it for you and where to find them

huy nguyen thank you huy. Appreciate the comment!

awesome mcafton! sounds like you got this! thanks for sharing!

Mcafton That is not the extent of your issue. You need a drip cap above your garage door. I'm guessing you have an expanse of siding above your garage door. Am I correct? Good luck Marc High Quality Home Maintenance Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

I replaced my rotted wood a couple years ago & it wasn't too bad. You can't clad pressure treated wood with aluminum if you go that route..it creates a reaction with the aluminum. Just use regular lumber. The trick for piece of mind is to get away from the idea of caulking as the main element of water intrusion prevention and start thinking DIVERSION. Add flashing and drip cap like Marc mentioned. I bent some white aluminum trim coil flashing with a nice slope which covers the tops of the brick walls on either side of my garage & goes up the wall on the house about 8". Then ran aluminum flashing down the short vertical (top piece lapped over these side pieces of course)of those walls into a 105 degree drip cap(has a 15 degree slope downward away from the house) which runs along the top board of the 2 car garage opening. This drip cap is folded on each end in such a way as to create a continuous dam without relying on caulk to seal the 1" high dam on the end. The flashing from the verticals overlap and drop into this sloped drip cap with dammed ends. The bottom of the vinyl J channel was drilled with 1/4" holes every 12" to shed water quickly & was then put on top of this flashing/drip cap, then siding re-installed. Water flows off the siding into the j channel and immediately back out the bottom of the vinyl J channel &, hits the 15 degree slope of the drip cap then rushes away from the house and off the edge of the drip cap which hangs off about 3/4" over the edge of the cladded board across the top of the garage. water has no way of hanging around or pooling and creeping/ seeping into any caulked cladding overlaps like it did before.Any caulking is on the flashing where it meets the brick...and I used white Vulkem polyurethane. Even if you didn't caulk these verticals at all the water intrusion prevention is taken care of on the largest part of the problem: the 16'2" horizontal area directly over the garage than unleashes torrents of rain down the side of the house and into J channel then out to the drip cap..any little bit of rain that got in on the verticals with such a small surface area where rain hits would be minimal...but caulk anyways! My garage jamb is dry as desert sand even in the heaviest rains and will remain so until the house falls down. No more reliance on caulk.

thank you nicolas!

awe come on mcgoo...there were no camera tricks! it really is that easy.. you got this.

Hey linh! Awesome. And you can do it for under 50. You got this.

Hey linh, that guy was charging you to much for the repair. I'm doing double garage doors. Replacing 4 pieces of the 2x8 trim that was rotten. Charge the customer $485.00 to install & paint Louisiana area

thank you john!

thank you justin! not too bad yourself..appreciate the comment!

@@homemend Well being a first time home buyer, thanks for teaching me what the hell a jamb was! Never heard it, prior! Now I'm looking for ways to sneak it into normal, everyday conversation. Haha

its cool man..keep watching. :)

J G hey jg! Great question! After they told me I would give them the price to add it on. So there’s no surprises at the end. I believe in paying full price for good work so I would definitely charge the customer. I would add the “ painted new jamb “ and the additional charge on the final. If they wanted you to come back and do it later of course they would need to pay at least the minimum service charge. It’s typically cheaper to get it done all at the same time. I hope this helps and thanks so much for the comment!

thank you ross!

Hey Chris any wood that’s painted is usually under treated pine. Treated wood looks terrible when it’s painted. You could always put a couple coats on the bottom where the cut is

Hey Alex, you would replace it the same way… This metal wrap could not be saved and would need to be re-wrapped, if it’s the header, it would replace it the same way… The garage door jam structural integrity will keep it together while you replace it. I hope this helps.

Hey olena. The 2 x 6 is an inch and a half thick so you would need 2 1/2 to 3 inch finishing nails.

@@homemend Thank you, Justin, for the replay. As you might remember I'm working on updating our fence, but here came across another problem w/those door jambs. But do you remember what size did you use? I want exactly same. You are an expert, it is better to follow your particular approach. Thank you kindly again.

Hey Mike. If the side flap is on top then technically water can blow in there. We have crazy nor’easter’s here. Thanks for commenting

Hey Angela, if water is running towards the garage then we need to stop the water from running towards the garage, possibly divert it somewhere else? They do have garage door jam seals but they are not much for keeping water out that is flowing towards the house.

Hey Lick. I wish Man if I could play guitar I don’t think I would leave the house. Thanks for commenting!

Hey k. If you can do it in one piece I would. If not you could use a scarf joint for cosmetic but the header is generally in one piece

Yes sir. It’s called trim coil and usually any roofing/siding company will do it.

Hey, are three. Great, however, using treated lumber on a house isn’t recommended… Toxic fumes produced when burnt… this one was not being painted it was being wrapped in aluminum trim coil, which would be cut closer to the ground and sealed

Z Stone z! You got this man. The hardest part is gaining the confidence to do it. In the dollhouse game, I’m sure your attention to detail is on point. You can do this. Thanks for commenting now get out there!

Haha! I'm 50 years old with a bad back and going through menopause. Can you just come here and do it FOR me?? :D

Awe Z youre the sweetest!

hey thanks blonde! its hard to tell you if its safe of not...i would ( if it has one) disconnect the garage door opener by the pull cord and try to lift it by hand.. the door probably wont fall but i would have 2x4s cut to length for emergency braces...i hope this helps..

Thanks for your helpful suggestion. @@homemend

Gregg Louis hey Gregg! I’ve always left the bottom gap open...unless you have water coming in. IMO priming both sides is a little overkill. I hope the video helped and thanks so much for commenting!

@@homemend thanks man! And yes it did help.

The average field or house mouse can easily squeeze through a 1/4 gap. A 1/2" gap will invite a slew of insects, mice spiders, scorpions etc. depending on where you live. I only replace rotted jambs using pressure treated lumber and only with a 1/8" gap at the bottom to keep out the mice and then completely fill the gap with a 100% silicone sealant to keep out the rain and smaller insects.

Joshua Fowler hi josh! Yes. They sell a drip edge at the depot or Lowe’s called z bar that would be perfect for the header. I hope this helps!

wow paul..sounds like youre mentally ready...you may be able to sawzall the 2x4 away from the 6 and pull it out as a whole... typically a grage door jamb is npot structural but if its a concern you could brace it... splicing sounds like a good idea...thanks for sharing!

@@homemend At this point I think a splice might be a reasonable repair. Im tearing off and replacing the 1954 cedar shakes on the garage, my last, wall. Figured I'd get after this jamb. Thanks.

Anna Crabtree hey Anna! Yes you certainly can but I like to do at least 2 feet or so, so you’re not left with a small replaced piece. I hope this helps! Thanks for commenting!.

Or if it's not too deep of a hole you could get some Durham wood filler and pack it.

hi sahar! yes that is correct. you know your wood..lol

@@homemend thank you for such a quick reply. Makes me think I could do this myself.

Your handyman did it right. If you'd like it better, get Kiln pressure treated, or wait until that pressure treated dries out (about a month) , spackle the knots and paint it.

@@goiocarlos he did everything ok except for not giving me space at the bottom and he used pressure treated for the header as well. I left it as it is. Thank you

I know this is an old thread - but I just found it (I'm in the middle of replacing my garage door jambs), and thought it's good to keep the content updated, questions answered, etc. The video and discussion has helped me, and could help others. Re: pressure treated lumber: I actually bought half a dozen 2" x 10" x 8' pressure treated boards yesterday and brought them home -- but read some more and thought about this last night and reconsidered. Depending on how recently the wood was treated, how wet it is, and the weather conditions (rain, humidity, sun, etc.) around you, PT lumber could take anywhere from weeks to several months to dry sufficiently for you to paint it -- you can test it periodically by spattering some water on it: if the water soaks in, it's ready to prime and paint. If it sits on the surface or just runs off without anything soaking in, it's still not ready to paint. Once it IS dry, pressure treated can certainly be primed and painted and will hold up for many years. I chose to return mine and came back today with douglas fir instead: not being wet, these are half the weight of the treated boards, and can be sawed and drilled and will accept nails and screws far more easily. I've got Kilz exterior primer (for both sides and the exterior edges), and hope to get this all done either tomorrow or the next day. :)

hey maxton!....great question....i usually run them the same length because it ends up looking out of place....i hope this helps,,,thanks for commenting

Barry G hi Barry! Typically they are white aluminum nails. I use them because they are white and I usually have them. But galvanized finish nails will work awesome!

hey R!..youre awesome... im in va beach! ..and i would love to :)

Better than most videos. Good job.

hey spark! just a semigloss exterior trim paint would be fine.. most of the time trim is done in semigloss but if youre trying to match a metal color, a matte may be better.. i hope this helps!

Awesome Phil. Thanks for sharing.

hey z ack...you can fill it with mortar. It may be the best but i also like to use quad..its hardcore exterior sealant that will keep out all that..i hope this helps! thanks for commenting!

sandw08 amos correct. You usually do not wrap pressure-treated wood with aluminum. This particular material is aluminum trim coil which is sold in rolls at the Home Depot and Lowe's. You would need to bend it in the shape and dimensions of your wood. Typically garage door jambs are made of untreated lumber. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.

hey killa! of course it is! you can do it!

is it the same process if I instead replace it using dual vinyl garage door seal? Thanks for your help.

yes it is!

hey renee! dont be intimidated...it just looks scary..you can! . I think this repair minus paint cost less than 20 . You could call a "handyman service" or a general contractor and they should be able to take care of it...thanks so much for watching.

@@homemend thanks for the encouragement! I have tried a few other things I didn't think I could do and I was able to do them.

hey crafty.. if they are replacing 3 sides of the garage door jamb and rewrapping in metal, I would say 350-400ish... if you have a stock color,, if its a color no one stocks, a roll of metal is 75 per roll.. they may play a factor..however if it is wrapped they would only need to cut out and replace the rot, as it doesn't need to be paint grade. I hope this helps..

Home Mender Inc Thank you for your reply! I like your videos and wish you were local and by our "fix it right" man.

Great question Jason. This one was getting metal wrapped after.

Awesome F. Thanks for commenting!

hey TG great suggestion.. however we dont really used treated lumber for painted or wrapped trim. the paint turns out green and wrapping it causes the aluminum to lose its finish..i hope this helps! thanks for commenting.