After all that, and you didnt even know how to clean it up! Are you dense or insane?? You have no buisness around a classic Anvil like a Hay-Budden at all! Your a dumbass!

Since I'm the owner of that anvil, I gotta say it looks beautiful now, and the rebound is amazing even near the edges, thank you Roy

There are professionals who specialize in anvil restoration. They typically use a hard-facing rod or wire. If the anvil is cast iron, they'll usually start with iron-nickel rod/wire as a base, then 2-3 layers of hard facing. Preheating is important, ESPECIALLY if it's a cast iron anvil.

This video gave me the last bit of confidence and courage to do my Anvil Surgery video! Thank you Roy for the excellent information and incredible channel! Thank you for sharing your incredible amount of knowledge with the world!

Essential Craftsman has a good video on anvil repair. He uses stick welding and he preheats the anvil to 400f. The rod he uses is of a suitable hardness.

Dude this was extremely helpful. I just got an old anvil and needed to know exactly what you just showed. Thanks bro. Great job! 👊

I dig the shop-looks cozy

I was very happy to see this I bought a 100 pound anvil the other day and it looks like that one. If I can make mine look half as good I will be happy. I have no welding experience so I need to practice with an old stick welder I just got.

Looks good. I'm thinking of getting into blacksmithing. Going to get a heave plate of steel and start there. Railroad ties are too light. I think a solid mass of steel will be better. Anvil will be a future purchase I do if it's something I think it's going to be a thing I do for a long time... Good video

Awesome video Roy. I was given an old Peter Wright anvil about 10 years ago. This year I've finally started to do some blacksmithing as a hobby. But the anvil has been abused pretty bad. I don't have a mig welder but was planning on using 7018 welding rod. Is that just as good or what would you recommend?

Did you have to back step the welds or can you run them in a nonstop pass?

Nice video, thanks for sharing. I would have liked to see some close ups of your beads as you weld. Also would have liked to have you comment on what voltage and speed you used when welding different parts of the anvil. Greetings from Maine.

Thanks for the video Roy, When heating steel, The welding shop that you go to should have Temp sticks that melt when it reaches the temperature your looking for. just my 2cents worth of information

If you can find a machine shop which does Blanchard grinding they can grind an anvil precisely flat. They often do much bigger work. Most shops outsource Blanchard grinding because it's loud and dirty work but the price is usually reasonable. You can also order Blanchard ground plate to make machine tables or whatever. If your local machinists don't have the grinder they know where to get it done.

When depositing a Anvil you mention heating the Anvil. I was wondering what temp to preheat it to before repairing? Thanks for you help.

I thought the video was great it helped me alot !!! I'm trying to fix a peter wright I just got .

Nice work but how long will the welds last as they are not hardened?

On my anvil the previous owner put a lot of chips all over the edges and the face. Would you suggest doing the same process?

I have seen videos on repairing an anvil using an arch welder but the is the first video i have seen using an mig welder it seems you did not heat up the anvil as high as the other i had seen, is there a reason for that?

I’ve a bow in the center of my anvil face and I was wondering if I grind it out but it would thin out the hardened face

What kind of grinder pad did you use?

Why not use hardface rods?

Would Stick Welding Be Better Than MIG Welding For Repairing An Anvil?

Hi bro can I use electrodes instead of mig wire and what type of electrodes

nice work roy my anvil must be mild steel or even cast because my surface is dented by everything so its a bit annoying my hardy hole is not the standard size as well should i drill and find a way to enlarge it or make tools to fit the size it is i was planning to take it to an engineer for enlarging it whats your thoughts

Can I use a stick welder?

So what wire did you use? You never put that in the description. I just horse traded a harbor freight pancake air compressor for a #8 Vulcan. the surface is BAD.. But the Pritchel and Hardy holes are almost perfect...

If this is a bad anvil you should see mine, the thing doesnt look like anything anymore. To its defence it being a cheap cast chinesium one used for making or repairing bent stuff and so on for the farm etc., it still does the job. Would stick welding the thing work? I am late for the party in these comments i guess but beeing a fan of your channel for i think a year now, and this beeing my first comment on youtube with an account i am going to subscribe i suppose.

Quick question- why welding bead on the step instead of welding on a separate piece of steel?

I know this is a few weeks old, but I've got an anvil in need of repair, and my buddy who will be helping with the welding is wondering about penetration of the weld using a 220V flux core. You didn't seem to have any trouble in the video, but I wanted to check whether there's any special measure other than pre-heating that's needed to get the bead to adhere/penetrate well.

I know a smith that repairs his anvils all the time. Will it be 100%? No, but it is cheaper than just going out and buying a new anvil because of chipping issues. He mostly heats his up to 200 degrees and uses 7018. Softer stuff, but less likely to damage the original heat treat at all. Any damage to the face, besides edges and corners, he will use hard facing rod. He said he can't tell any difference in how his anvils work. He doesn't believe in rebound either. He thinks that whole theory got mistaken from back in the day, and they weren't testing the rebound, but more so if the anvils had a steel face plate and not entirely wrought iron. He has his main one which is an old 457# Swedish Anvil, and he has repaired it multiple times.

Thank you for allowing me to be part of your audience! Well done Sir!! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!!

Did KZfaq translate it or is it "Cristo centrado" the name of your channel?

I am puzzled about the little hole in the horn my anvil has exactly the same. wondering why they would put a hole in the horn.

another great video guys, i was wondering what state your shop is located in, its no problem if you guys don't publicly share that info have a good day

Looks great, But i'd love to be able to fully flatten my Record anvil, as I'm a jeweller. I'd love to know how to do this myself.

Good job done!

Roy, great job. For future videos, and I hope you make some, don't apologize for your skills and get right into what's wrong, what you're going to fix and then video of that happening. Show the grits rather than talk about them so much. I wish I was a blacksmith just watching your videos. Thanks.

When doing a time lapse you should consider adding a little lite music

Can an anvil go dead? I heard if the ting soundis no longer heard in the anvil it's no good....true or false...thank you.

Excellent info! I have been blessed by a fellow Brother in Christ, with an older unknown make 200 lb'er, that has seen better days! It needs EXACTLY what you've shown here and I did not know it could be done with a MIG welder? I thought Nickle rods would be required for a harder edge and face surface? Your thoughts on that, before I get to welding? God bless and Thank you!

I am morbidly curious to see what it looks like today, assuming it's been used. Can you post a picture or make another video?

nice work Roy, I need an anvil . Its funny most of the time when I post that I need an anvil someone usually chimes in saying anvils are not nessasarry you can use a rock for an anvil. I have heard before. whats funny about this to me is most people that are saying these things have an anvil or somthing better than a RR track like I have .Anyway enough with the rant. As always great video thanks for sharing, M/S Blacksmithing and Blades

Okee Dokee! Ya hey, there. I have several Anvils that have had the edges rebuilt by myself. One has developed a crack which I have been watching but the others are perfect. I use 7018 beneath and hard facing on top. I look for beat but big Anvils. I use oak board for a cheap backstop when welding right at the edge and also to plug hardie You come up with extra m'trl , not defecit. Then carbide burrs FTW. What does JC say about naming Anvils? Isn't that a sort of Idolatry?

atta boy Roy, you done good. i gotta 1905 130# mousee, been used a little. ahhahah Ron

Okie dok

I assume this is a flux core wire you're using?

I've repaired and fabricated some anvils. It is cheaper and less frustrating to repair what you have to an extent. Usually the problem is improper treatment, too much or too little preheat. I see some people advise others to weld a new plate to the top, that is poor advise and a chunk of mild steel would make a better anvil afterwards. HRC or hardness is second to an anvils rebound, I look at HRC as protection against beginners hammer control and protection against tough materials and rebound is the helping hand in moving the material. A solid 100lb block of mild steel will always work better as an anvil than the same 100lb block with a tool steel plate unless it's fill welded on. Last fabricated anvil I tested only gained 5-10% rebound after hard facing and is a lot of added expense and precautions.

the new purgatory ironworks

Sir, I hate to tell you this, but I brought a 32Kg Anvil Farrier which I purchased from eBay ok & it cost me about AU$1000 Like I got ripped off ! ? 😨😰

You did not preheat the mass of the anvil so your heat in the puddle was pulled out immediately, means low penetration and prone to cracking. If you need 90degree angles on an anvil, you aren't smithing properly.

I will say my opinion, as you asked for it in the video, even though everyone is going to jump on my saying I don't know what I'm talking about. Was it necessary to do all of that to the perfectly functional tool? no. That anvil WAS in great shape, a few chips on the edge, very minor. Could he not have worked around those chip? yes he could have. there was plenty of usable edges on that beauty, and if you ever wanted perfectly sharp crisp edges you could make and anvil block to fit your hardy hole that had the desired radius. How long had he used the anvil? I'm going to say not long, because he would have realized he didn't need this "repair", and that it actually is doing more harm than good for it. Like you said, you loose the temper of the anvil. So, now what's going to happen is the edges will round over. yeah. the anvil edges wont chip if there is hot steel between the hammer and anvil, so if you are having problems with chipping work on your hammer control. the horn I can understand, that's fine, rebound doesn't matter so much there. I would have been interested to have you do a rebound test before, and after. The step is used for cutting, it should be expected to have marks there. The face could have been cleaned up with a wire brushing, and hot steel, and over time would have been polished up and the pits removed. May I ask you, How often do you use a really sharp crisp edge like the ones you just made? I have sharp edges on my anvil, and they almost never get used. I am just trying to say I guess that it was pointless, and lessened the life of the tool. If I was meaning to just be a jerk, I wouldn't have taken the time to write this paragraph, and just would have left a one line nasty comment. You asked for my opinion, here it is.

The only thing I would have done differently Is preheat the anvil to 300 ish

Hope you drank your spark before recording haha.

Christ centered ironworks doing the work of the devil welding on the edges of a perfectly good anvil 😜

Well ya screwed that one up

I dont mean to sound like a negative nancy. But welding an anvil is not a good idea. Cast iron has particular properties that make it hard if not impossible to weld under normal conditions. If your going to weld cast iron you must use special rod for cast iron and preheat the item to 3-400 degrees slowly. weld using iron/nickel rod and slowly cool over hrs in a heat blanket and depending on the type of cast iron results vary. The problem with cast iron is high carbon content up to 4% creates carbon crystals that make it weak. When you have heat differences it almost always cracks. Think of it like heating glass and placing in cold water the glass shatters instantly. Thats an extreme ex but thats what happens when you weld cast iron. Someone is gonna hammer on that anvil and pieces are gonna fly off like a bullet. The only way to clean up the surface is to remove material.

It’s not the anvil it’s the persons skill……I have seen beautiful work done on what people would say are crap……anvil..those edges can be radiused …..mig wire …really

all i would do is weld some 1/2" plate on it temper it

Heres a link to the science, i comment about this in the interest of facts not negativity. www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/job-knowledge/weldability-of-materials-cast-irons-025

Before and after ... before was better and more valuable. After lost value and is not better. Sharp edges are useless, and you forgot to grind the horn needle sharp ...

11:16 *anvil porn

I guess some people like the sound of their own voice.....

Dude, at least you could have stated in your video introduction for the benefit of your viewers what brand of anvil you are refurbishing, including the weight, dimensions, and type of makeup. Come on!