I did this exact same thing (Broke that bolt) a few years ago. I fixed it by drilling out the center of the bolt, using a small carbide grinder, and worked my way out to the threads until the only thing left of the bolt was the threads, and then chased the nut with a tap. Inspected the threads and miraculously they were still in good shape. I did NOT want to crack open the frame. But it was a LOT of nightmarish work on my back going back and forth between drills and the Dremel. I think your fix was the better way to go! Oh well, hopefully I never have to deal with it again!

I would say good job for not being afraid to take on the job. Even though you are open about your confidence in welding, you didn't let it stop you. The only way we learn and grow is to get out of our comfort zones. Oh and I told ya it was going to involve a grinder and a welder 😉

Good job Andy! I'm lucky to live in dry heat California and bolts almost never break off like that on my 65. Does seem like a missed opportunity to install a Z Ray crossmember though. Keep the videos coming!

2 for 1 content. I would have crapped my pants if this happened to me. Looks like you were able to make the fix and get it all buttoned up without breaking a sweat. 👍

Great job getting the fix in. You can pretty much grind those welds flat so that it is "flush" with the steel that i still on the unibody structure. It's cool to see how far manufacturing has come looking at a new car compared to an older car like this. I bet they never thought those would break.

Your welds look like mine. At least your trying, congrats on the fix.

Number 1. Excellent video. I have been working on early Mustangs for a while and have never had to do this type of repair. You attacked it the same way I would have. Number 2: I might have welded the nut to a piece of flat bar (outside the car) that I could have plug welded into place. FWIW. Number 3: Treat the inner frame rail with rust inhibitor spray (Like Eastwood products, not sponsored) Great job on banging metal and vacuuming. Number 4: Old car = GET one of these or similar to this. Northern tools Klutch Mini Air Bandfile Belt Sander # 47923. Get the quietest one and the most cost effective belt replacement. That you can afford. (Research this) Number 5: GOD speed Brother. 🙂 P.S. Subbed.

Your most ambitious project yet, Andy. Good job on this. Not a lot of content out there for this kind of fix. I have some thoughts, but I’ll save them for VMF. Cheers

Ford did some questionable things back in the 60’s! Good job, kudos to you!

good video Andy thank you

Hey Andy, was bummed when the bolts broke in the oil pan video, props for tackling the unpleasantness. In the future though a few extra mins prepping the steel to bare metal will make a night and day difference in your welds, even with flux core, it'll be much easier to maintain a consistent puddle. The little 2" discs on an angle die grinder make quick work though would be a challenge for the inner frame welds, a bodymans belt sander would likely do the trick there but even just a wire brush won't be perfect but will help. Very cool the time you are putting into making these vids!

My mantra: I am not a good welder, but I am a good grinder.

Bravo! Just minutes ago (literally) my Century FC-90 welder arrived at my doorstep. Is this the one you have? I'm having to re-weld a few of the nuts for the hood hinges. Someone before me did a terrible job. I'm no welding expert but I know I can do better. Great video!!!

I gotta 65 convertible that can & will provide plenty of content lol.

Needed more heat on the welder!

Should of cleaned the steel before welding not very secure.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ibCWq5yls7XGeY0.html Right behind your finger I see a hole in the frame on the engine side. After watching your video I am tempted to squirt some PB Blaster in there just as preventative maintenance. That also might be a good idea if someone need to remove the crossmember in the future. Might be able to save them from the same adventures as Andy.