√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

My blower motor started making a noise. After watching this vid I will just turn up the radio

This mechanic is exceptionally good at explaining things. He's very calm, methodical, lines the camera up perfectly and obviously enjoys what he's doing. I wish we all could be as good.

Bruh someone oughta fire whatever brilliant engineer thought this was a good idea

Making a few videos myself really makes me appreciate how much time he spent setting up camera shots, especially under a dash.

Thanks for the great tutorial. I did it in about 2 hours and I have two notes from my effort. 1) I recommend using an endoscope to find the two hidden screws. I used a cheap one from e-bay connected to the phone. 2) I was worried that I wouldn't hit this two hidden screws back in the holes. My solution: I stuck thicker plastic tape over both holes on the disassembled basket. Then I made a small hole in it and screwed in both screws. Only for the first thread so that the tape holds both screws in the hole during assembly. So I placed the basket with the screws and then using the endoscope I hit the screw head with a screwdriver.

This was an extremely difficult job. Took four hours plus trips to the hardware store and auto parts store for tools to make it possible. If you’re going to attempt it listen to the advice of other commenters and get an endoscope to see what you’re doing-it was a nightmare without one. If you think it’s difficult removing the three torx screws holding the blend door housing, wait til the time comes to replace them. I wish I’d seen the comments above about taping them in place before replacing the housing. We lost one of the original screws to the black hole behind the dash trying to get it back in and had to replace it so good luck to the next person trying to figure out why one of the three screws is a phillips head instead of a torx. Might also be worth it to do what other commenters did and remove the seats so you’re not contorted upside down with all your weight on your head and shoulders for the whole job. I didn’t have any trouble unscrewing the blower motor from the driver’s side with just my left hand using my ring finger to release the locking tab, but maybe I got lucky. Obviously still had to remove the motor itself from the passenger side. We couldn’t have done this job without this video. Thanks!

Word of advice when you get to the step to remove the blend door actuator at around 5:30 in the video, there is a bit of a "Goldilocks" factor when selecting the length of the extension needed to get to the rear hidden Torx screws, and that is it can't be too short or too long, but just right, which I found to be around a 9 to 10 inch one. Six inches is too short, and you'll be wondering why you can't get the Torx bit to engage the screw even when an endoscope shows you are right on top of it. On the other hand, 12 inches is too long because after attaching the ratchet to the extension, you'll find it jams up against the wheel well bump on the ratchet end and you can't get the bit to go in straight or a perpendicular position to get to the screws. It may also help to use a narrower drill bit extension rather than a bulkier and thicker socket one to maneuver around back there.

Exceptional detail in the video.The engineering is a nightmare.

Here in the UK & have a failed a/c blower motor. I was going to attempt to replace it myself but after watching your excellent video, I have talked myself out of it & will leave it to garage repair. Now I know why America got someone onto the moon & back!

Just replaced the fan on a 2014 focus SE, used electrical tape wrapped over the screw holes in the blend door housing, then started the screws thru the 2 layers of tape pre-install and used a screw finder with retracting outer sleeve.with the T-20 bit inside the sliding tube of the finder trapped the bit in with plastic bag forced over the bit and then taped with electrical tape just to make sure, worked great. Found we had to remove both front seats and the gas pedal to gain access to the fan and connectors

2015 Ford Escape here. Same removal and installation and I'm fighting with lining up the new motor. Bugs me that you got it to pop right in and was like "Oop, there it is"... Gonna give a whirl tomorrow... My back, legs and arms are killing me from my day as a circus contortionist! Great design Ford!! 🤕🤬

What a pleasant tutorial to watch . Good video ,well lit and great execution. Why does Ford make this removal so complicated? Wow ,this could be a nightmare to an untrained tech .

This job was a pain. I bought a cheap endoscope off Amazon to help find those Torx screws made it a little easier but still a pain. You don't have to remove the airbag,gas and break petal to get to the Electrical and locking tab on the blower. I did remove the driver seat (only 4 bolts and air bag connection super easy) that let me lay strait and get a good angle. I was able to easily disconnect the electrical and press the tab with my hand. I broke the tab on purpose since I was by my self. Hopes this helps someone. 2012 Ford Focus

This video is amazing - it made a seemingly impossible repair (just barely) doable - no thanks to Ford. I successfully repaired my blower for a fraction of what it would've cost me. Thank you!

Wow!!! Ive never seen a blower motor so hard to get to… Of course we are talking about an industry who are making cars with batteries under the drivers seat and almost removing the engine just to get to air filters, batteries, and simple oil changes…

THIS IS GOING TO SUCK, I MAY JUST PAY THE $800 TO HAVE IT DONE. THANKS FOR MAKING THIS A NIGHMARE FORD...FFS

Perfect video for explaining this process, helped me understand what I needed to do, simplified it

I guess they did this to make up for how easy the last generation of Escape was. I wouldn't even have attempted one without a video this detailed.

How the heck did you yet in there to get those 2 back screws from the blower case? I'm on day 2 still can't get it and I'm losing my mind.

Doing this one today and I have a few tips for people at about the halfway point. If you don't have a lift to get things at the perfect height and aren't one of the small guys or aren't very limber, a little platform outside the door about level with the door sill is helpful especially for the clip on the motor where in order to just reach for it and unclip easily by hand you'd have to remove pedal assembly and airbags. My car is a Focus ST, the stock wheels were nearly perfect height to throw a piece of plywood over and lay on and into the drivers side to be able to get the right angle to peek around for the clip and run a long screwdriver up in there to un-clip it (BREAK THAT POS). The Torx-20s on the Blend Door Actuator (Cage) can easily fall out of cheap magnetic bit drivers and there are several places up in here where you'll never find the bit again... while it's daylight or in advance, get a few extras... maybe even glue/epoxy a bit into a socket if all you can round up easy are bits. Another user in the comments here mentions the length of extension being a "goldilocks phenomenon", It really is especially for the lower T-20 however they said 6" was too short and 10" was too long, 7-8" was the perfect overall length for a bit driver. On the top t-20 I would've liked to have had a couple inches more, maybe 10-11". Lining up on the lower t-20 finally was accomplished without being able to see it by dragging the bit along the plastic corner of the actuator cage until it stopped against the end of the plastic then pulling the driver into the corner of the two and pushing up while pulling back in a slight but even amount a few times... if you start to feel a spongy resistance and can all of a sudden move the driver further, DOUBLE CAUTION, Your bit is about to become a permanent fixture of the vehicle and fall into one of three places that you'll never get it out of without a significant amount of magnet fishing AFTER everything is disassembled. The t-20 up top is pretty easy to find without seeing it, you can place your driver on the edge of a ridge on the cage and the ridge will run in about 7" straight to that torx screw, you can balance your driver on the ridge if you're careful and need to re-position once it's in the screw to give a good idea of just how in line it runs with this corner/ridge on the blend door cage. When it goes back together tomorrow, on the actuator cage, I'm taping the screws in and I'm going to start on the lower one with the bit driver already on it, fishing for that one to put the screw back in sounds like a real good way to lose that screw into the rest of the hvac system of the car or the insulation against the firewall or into the labyrinth of plastic in the dash below and I have to imagine this is where a few other people mentioning losing them lost theirs as well. Will be back tomorrow to make an edit to this with anything else.

Great video. Highly recommend using a 8mm ratcheting wrench on the glovebox 8mm bolts like you did. Although you did forget to mention those at the end putting it back together. Easily forgettable with how much of a pita they are to get off.

Ford should be given the we are still stupid award for 30 yrs on end! Almost as fun as a Northstar caddy

Can ya do a video with changing the fan motor resistor please . Only on that comes up on KZfaq is for older Ford Focus

NFW would I attempt this. Maybe 30 years ago, but not now. So, it's either going to be the Ford dealer that does it (BOHICA $$$), or some other AC shop (BOHICA $$$). Either way, I estimate it's going to be at least a $700 repair: $50 for the part, $150 "diagnostic fee," and $500 labor. Still, way cheaper than buying a new car. I don't see how they could have made it any more difficult to get at the blower/motor assembly. Holy 💩.

Well done. How do you stay that calm and still work on a FORD?

Doing this job on my daughters car right now. Be honest, how long did it take you to get those two T20 screws out? Holy hell.

Great video. Thanks

I'm doing this on my ST right now. My fingers are too fat to slip through the webbing on the blades. I have to do it from the drivers side. I've pulled motors, transmissions, gas tanks, you name it. This is by far the most annoying one. This one sucks. And I would highly recommend breaking the clip on the motor.

Excellent video, very nicely done.

9:39 how are you getting such a good view I was barely able to get the plug out and can't even see anything else as far as some kind of locking clip , the brake and gas pedals obstruct all view

Ok is this video good? YES ! Will i ever buy another ford because of the hours lost in the most frustrating fix I've ever been a part of ? NEVER!

For a Ford Fusion from 2015...you gotta take the glove box off or not? I’ve seen it done both ways in other’s videos.

I have one of these cars just thought I’d watch your video that looks like a freaking nightmare

Necesito ver si tienes un video, de ese desmontaje y montaje es igual al Ford Fiesta SE 2015

I just spent 4 hours contortions my hands blindly to get them 3 screws out... when I finally the the rcyl air switcher thingy out I felt like beowulf when he ripped the heart outta the dragon!

What a great video. What a pain it is to take that thing out..

That clip that you broke off that holds the blower motor on...... How does it come loose? I wish I could break the SOB off right now.

Having trouble getting the new motor in place and locked in. My fingers cannot get into the motor from the cage far enough to hold on and turn it. Any pointers would be awesome I’m almost at wits end

Any advice on the fuse panel connectors clips breaking? Since I disconnected them to replace the blower motor I don’t have rear brakes and the car resets to km per hr and Celsius every time you start the car. And no brake lights. I’m guessing is the connector clips

This hurts my neck looking at this

I found the video to be the information I needed but found the brackets and other dash supports to be in the way so I'm unable to complete the job !!!

I am semi pro at removing and replacing the cage, I cannot get the motor to snap in

Is this the same for a 2017 Ford Escape Titanium?

My blower motor making rattling noise only in rough roads only while ac is on ..What could be the reason?..They told they provided packing inside...Then noise reduced...But after sometime again started the noise..

Thanks Ford....swapping a blower motor should not be this hard. Thanks for the great video.

What is the labor time

I’m trying to find out why my ecosport rune ok the goes to dead slow

8:00 OMG Chills 😲

I’ve never hated a design this bad, whoever thought this was a good way to design this needs to find a new job😂

Got it out and back together and the stupid fan motor is hitting on the air duct stopping it from moving. Very dume. Tried reinstalling it again and again and same results. Motor looks absolutely the same. What the heck.

This is the same as the ford escape 2013+

5:50 it's actually a T20

Those connectors look color coded

The mechanic next door to my work told me all i needed was a screwdriver to do this..... Smh

This is how Ford mechanics make their money…😂

I failed, i can't remove one screw. This is f..g hard

ford escape 2015 la résistance saute a toute les 3 mois

What an absolute asanine design. It makes you appreciate when you could pull out the glove-locker in 10 seconds then remove the blower motor behind it in 5 minutes or less. Whoever designed this should be forced to now travel the country and repair these for free and never be allowed to design anything for cars again. I have to laugh when pople ask why these main auto-makers are now failing so much.

Everything was fine until the 2nd hidden screw. This guy didn't show us how to get to the angle he just cut to it leaving it up to us to figure out the exact angle to go in at.

2016 is not done this way.

you missed the 2 8 mil bolts

Worst design ever.. Ford dropped the ball on this design.

This videio must be pre set up or somthing to make life look easy my budy two machanics for 20 years doing classics and modern trucks and nothing about this is simple or stright forward. It took us 10 hours of dissasembly and 4 hours just to get the blower to line back up and be twisted back in place. I didnt want to do this myself but the three garages i called wouldnt touch it. I should have known then Just pay the delaer

That's why you don't buy any car made after 1978.

Those two bolts are HELL its all doable until you get to those..some ford engineers wife DEFINITELY had a night with a ford mechanic and never forget it...😂😂like why couldn't you build a 5 cent extended bolt that you could see🤦🏻🤦🏻🤦🏻🤦🏻🤦🏻

That's why I'll never buy a Ford anymore

Whoever made this stupid disign, they hate Ford owners ..😂😂