√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

I watched this yesterday and decided to do it myself last night. '02 V8 235k suddenly developed violent shaking while Decelerating from highway speed, especially if there was some rough road to get things started. I had no squeaks or other symptoms typically described. No vibration under acceleration. So I did this in my backyard with a dip to give me more head room. I expected the hard parts to be the yoke bolts into the diff, and the two mounting bolts for the bearing. Yoke was easy, as I should've expected since I had the rearend replaced last year. Bearing bolts were easy with an air impact wrench. Slid right out of the transmission. Hard part ? UNIVERSAL JOINT!!! I thought I could get away with using a heavy hammer and socket, but no way. Ended up getting a loaner ball-joint press from Autozone, which had been terribly abused, but still made it easy to remove. Installing the new one was a B****! This video is not about U-joints, but suffice to say when a needle drops into the cup, you're not going to get the clip to seat - no matter how hard you crank the tool or swing the hammer. (Beware dropped needles) Once that was done, reinstall was super easy. Feels nice and tight now. Even some of the shakiness I had attributed to just an older truck subsided. **Beware also the dust cup flange thing that remains on the shaft when the bearing is removed. It's easy to think it's part of the bearing when it's still together. I banged on it with a hammer drill like he does in the video to remove the bearing, and ended up mutilating it somewhat. When I put the bearing on the dust flange was contacting the rubber part, so I had to very meticulously reshape it. **Good to know: --- the rubber housing and frame of the bearing can be pulled off the bearing itself and put back without damage. I had to do that to get access to the dust flange, because the bearing had been pressed all the way on by the big nut, and the dust flange was hidden by the rubber casing. Thanks to @TRQ for showing me the ropes and inspiring me!

I don't even have the problem on my truck but the video was fun to watch!😁

I’ve seen a couple of these videos and noticed his corroded the drive shaft is on these Tundras being worked on. I’ve had my ‘03 Tundra for 20 years and over 400k miles and my drive shaft still looks new. These must bring in the East cost

Before I got to replace my center Beaing on my truck I watched this video and everything was fantastic it was well explained video. Everything was fantastic. Thanks very much

He failed to line up the crayon lines when reinstalling the u-joint, you can see this at 10:07

Very nice job thank for your video. Henry the Arizona

Thanks my friend for this very useful video. Now I feel confident about doing my own 2002 Tacoma driveshaft job. From P.Rico , your friend Edwin

I see alot of ppl saying its offset or upside down, heres what i learned when i 1st started out as a mechanic 1) PUT IT ON THE SAME WAY IT CAME OFF 2) THE MANUFACTURERS NEVER MAKES ANYTHING MAKE SENSE Come in now we have cars with the freakin' batteries behind the bumper inside the wheel wells. I'm pretty sure he inspected the part before he took it off & started the video & seen that this specific vehicle & the design is OFFSET & upside down. So he may have it on correctly, its all according to how the manufacturer created it.

So all this went splendid, also tore apart the rear differential to replace leaking seal, now that i have it all back together, the slip yoke won't slide back on to the transmission. It goes about an inch and a half then sounds almost like hitting metal. Tried each and every spline, thinking theres a keyway, but theres not. Any advice? Could the bushing behing the rear transmission seal have shifted? Can't get it back in. Please help!

Thanks this video helped me do mine

My OEM carrier as well as yours, the tabs on the round outer frame that bolts it up are not center of the driveline by design, It’s slightly offset. Therefore it’s upside down if the single drain hole is not at the bottom. Your pushing the carrier further up by it being upside down. Look at time 6.43 and you’ll see the offset of the mounting tabs.

It would appear the carrier bearing has hanger tabs to preset when reassembling. If that’s the case you’ve installed upside down

I’m from AZ and the thing I noticed All the rust on the rear axle, unbelievable

I recently had my center carrier bearing replaced and noticed transmission fluid drip. Called the mechanic, and he said this is normal and will stop after a few days. In your experience, does this sound right?

Very good job good video thank you for sharing

Ok so not sure if I’m just an idiot but want to make sure no one else does what I did.. in this vid there is only one u joint next to the carrier bearing.. my shaft has two.. I pressed out what I thought was the right joints and after it came apart now I see a spring, some needle bearings inside a ball joint. The spring was bent and needles are kind all over now..these are the only two joints that are serviceable as I can tell. Not sure if I can get this back together and might just by a new shaft to make things easy. Any advice would help. Thanks

I can just tell this tundras from up north, I live in Texas and from the bottom everything looks new other than the exhaust and the busted carrier bearing

So i looked at mine today after watching your video. I noticed that the driveshaft is not in perfect line, the carrier bearing has a shift to the left. Shot the driveshaft be centered perfectly or if this ok.

you bolted the center support bearing upside down the center hole in the middle goes towards the ground, and the to slotted holes go up towards the floor board the way you bolted it puts the bearing to high up to the floorboard making the rear half of the driveshaft run to much of an angle

Great Job.

Good job

What do you call the bearing in front of axle.

What u joint did you use to replace the old one?????????????

How long did this job take?

I believe the single hole on the carrier bearing needs to be facing down to allow water to drain out.

The carrier bearing is upside down. The singke hole is down and if there is a arrow facing forward, utilize it too.

Man ...check the RUST on that rear axle assembly

I have never seen something this hard to replace just the bearing

drive shaft slipping after installing new carrier bearing support unit. what can cause this

New bearing was shreded, failed. Anyone know why? Thx

What is the importance of having it all line up

The carrier bearing is not upside down. The original did not have hanger tabs and there are no hangers nearby that could be used when it is installed. Unless you want to steal one from the exhaust. And the bearing will work whether you spin it so the tabs point up or the opposite and they point down.

It is upside down!

look at the rust comin of that thing

I watched half of this and felt as though these instructions were very half axled...