√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

Thanks for the video I think overall it does a good job at explaining how to do this job. I Wanted to recommend a few tips on some things I noticed for anyone looking to do this job on their own.1. When taking the 10 mm bolt for the ABS sensor in and out be extremely careful this bolt should not be in there very tight and if you get on it too much while you loosen or tighten it you can easily break it off and then you’re gonna have to be faced with trying to drill it out. 2. I highly recommend not using a flat blade screwdriver under the ABS sensor to pry it out instead use a pair of pliers and grip it on the sides and twist and pull straight up instead of prying underneath it. In my opinion she was lucky she Didn’t break the ABS sensor trying to pry it out like that. I have seen and heard a lot of people breaking them trying to pry it out this way.3 surprising to see a shop use the BFH method In a how to video.When removing The upper ball joint it’s a lot easier and safer just to use a ball joint press than the BFH method and smacking your uca. Harbor freight sells a inexpensive two jaw puller that you can use on this job and also other various jobs making it worthwhile and a lot safer than hitting on your suspension components. 4. Highly recommend not hitting on the end of your cv axle stud with a hammer you can easily mess up the threads to where your axle nut is not going to be able to start again causing you a whole new set of problems. Simple enough just to use a rubber mallet or screw back on the axle nut and tap on that instead. 5. When loosening and tightening the axle nut screw back on a couple Lugnuts to protect the threads on the wheel studs. I noticed she uses a long prybar through the wheel studs but there is nothing to protect the threads on the wheel studs when she is tightening and loosening the axle nut again this could potentially damage the threads on the wheel studs causing you to have to replace them as well. Just some tips I have either had to learn myself the hard way or from others experiences. Take it or leave it hope this advice may make your job a little easier and potentially save you from causing some further damage.

Got the job done after watching this video about 3 times and taking notes. Great information here. I took my knuckle to a auto machine shop and had the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in for $75.00. I tried using a bearing tool from a tool rental shop (like the Hub Grappler) but gave up because even with a 3' extension on my breaker bar, I couldn't move the bearing more than about 1/4". The machine shop has a press and the right dies to make it work. total time was about 2 hrs of my labor plus trips to the machine shop. Cost ended up around $225.00 Thanks for this great video.

Good video. First I heard the accent and was thinking "A fellow New England mechanic" then I saw the truck and thought "Oh yeah that's a New England vehicle"

Hey everyone just wanted to throw in, I purchased a wheel bearing and hub kit from rockauto and it was a cheap bearing but still cost 70 bucks. The diameter of the bearing was not to oem spec and got to a point on the press where it was walking in and suddenly fell in for about half in inch. I removed the bearing because it was not a good fit and purchased a koyo from napa autoparts for about 80 bucks. The koyo by far was a much better bearing visually and after pressing it in went in as you would expect and no issues. If i ever do a bearing on this type of application i will use a koyo. Great video of R and I 1Aauto (especially the part where you support the bottom half of the lower race so you dont split the bearing when installing the hub), you get the point across of how to do the job which I think is a great source of info for the diy guy or gal.

just a tip, never hit the bare threaded end of a shaft with a hammer. Screw a nut flush onto the shaft and then do it. It will protect your threads on the shaft. That poor tundra must have come from snow country. So much rust.

My tacoma has the exact same set up and all rusted up, bought used. had to drill out cotter pins, broke bolts, abs sensor and I thank this Mechanic for showing her techniques and torque specs.

The 1A Auto bearing you installed was made by Koyo, a top Japan bearing company and supplier to Toyota.

You are a great mechanic👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

that rusty backing plate is driving me up the wall, please change it

I like the bungie cord to support the loose caliber, great idea

Hello, Do you sell the spacer that was used in this video? The one that was used right after the abs ring? If so, Please share the link. Thank you

I think you're my favorite presenter of all

Nice job lady, good clean work

Just did mine on a 2006 4runner and out in a doorman complete assembly from auto zone. Went on no issue and back together and cleaned everything prior to reinstall and now when I turn right I'm getting a noise. Any thoughts? Pulled tire back off and reinstalled bass and bend the dust shield and a little better bit still a noise.

Would this be a similar installation to a 2005 Highlander?

are the wheel studs standard wheel studs? I have extended studs and will have to move them to the new wheel hubs.

This video was amazingly well done. Thank you.

Makes it look so easy👍

Great video.

Do I need a spacer for a non ABS model? Did not come out with one should their be one in there?

Great detailed video!

You can use a bearing separator to clamp where the seal flanges and it will give you bigger ears to add support for hub removal on a press.

Nice work

Hi folks , I am attempting this on a 01 tacoma . I pressed the old bearing out of the spindle . The bearing came out but another piece came out with it ,it's the same diameter and about a half inch thick .Was that piece in front of the bearing or behind ? Ive never seen this before . Thanks.

For those alloy wheels the torque should be 83 foot pounds for a first gen tundra. And good thing you are hand torqueing them. Using an impact wrench will make the rotors warp and and vibrate when braking.

Did the wheel bearing on my 2001 toyota sequoia 1st gen, pretty much the same press. thanks

perfect ,well done .

what size is the ball joint tool that you used to press out the bearing?

Sue is a Champion

Excellent! Thank you! Do RWD 3rd Gen 4runners have the same 35mm axle nut?

Hi guys As always I am so thankful for your videos and high quality products. I have a small fleet of toyotas and chevys for all my family and kids. I have been a long time customer and you have never let me down. I have my first piece of constructive criticism to hopefully help make your videos even better. Listening to this one was actually painful. The young lady doing the work is great. She is very clear and concise in her instructions. The issiue is you have her vocals a bit quiet 🤫. I have to turn the volume up to hear clearly. When she used the press to knock out the bearing I thought I was bleeding from the ears OUCH!!!! Headphones can hurt. I am very protective of my hearing and that of my kids that I make watch these videos before we work on their cars. There is a simple answer to fix this problem. Most editing software already has it built-in. You need to activate or add a limiter. It will allow you to set a max volume to all sounds. When a horrible clank/pop like the one at about 16:51 happens it just turns that sound down for those sounds. Even better is a audio compressor as well. Generally the software scans the sound track to find the average sound level. Then it will increase the volume of the quiet dialog and turn down the areas that get too loud. Thanks again for all the great videos. If you have already fixed the stuff I mentioned great. If you want any additional input please contact me. I did leave a message with a customer service representative asking them to pass it on to the right person. Thanks John Hogan Bloomington MN

I ordered this kit from 1a auto and I got the low grade bearing with just one serial number on it

AGRDEZCO MUCHO ESTE VIDEO.

What a rusty mess! Having mine done today. 2004 Tundra. Thanks!

Great video thank

So I take it you don’t need to pack the new bearing with grease? It must be pre-greased?

Please how about a part number for the hub or is okay to use the old one? Thanks

Great explanations video instruction. My only recommendation is to edit the name of the video and add that this is for 4WD, my rear wheel drive is different and requires additional tools and hardware. Other than that spot on instruction!

1A Auto: What is the size of those aluminum square blocks (press block)? I assume 2" x 2" x 6"? They should be deep (long) enough to get the hub out in one shot.

What's the size of the square block used to remove the the wheel hub? Thanks.

What a pro !

OMG Toyota --- were your engineers on strike? This is the most complicated bearing replacement of any truck I've worked on! This should be criminal, especially since the front suspension already likes to pop lower balljoints

I do love me some brass punch!

Are y’all using a 12 ton press or a 20 ton?

Where can I get all those metal blocks you have for your press ?

Thanks for showing how to do this. Total pain in the )$&;: job. The front rotors aren’t very deep when you are pressing out the hub. You have to keep building up the press blocks on top of the rotors to get the hub completely out. I eventually used an old rear drum with supports. Thanks again. Very few videos on this topic.

Awesome video. Do you install bearing either side?

Where did you get the blocks for the press?

Is there an updated tool list? You left a few out

Is this for the 4x4 model ? I didn’t have to remove an axle from the hub like here ?

9:41 What to do when the knuckle is not released, I hit it like the video and didn't come out, is not rust visible, I put some w40 and still not coming out. any idea what to do pls...

GREAT INFO!! HOW MANY TON SHOP PRESS IS THAT? 😁😁

I was waiting for cuss words after that dust plate 😂

It work

Do you know if a tundra 2006 6 cylinder has abs sensor on the right side?

i got a set of bearings from you for my 04 tundra and was quite disappointed. i ordered them because in the video you showed Japan bearings that looked like stock equivalent and that's what i wanted. i got instead one from Tawain and one that was not marked.

I need those square metal blocks..... at least they are putting that harbor freight press to work

Thank you

I'm dreading this job I gotta do all 4 wheel bearings on my first gen tundra 380,000 miles with 35s on a "4 lift I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later. My driver rear wheel bearing blew out so bad it took my outer axle seal with it.

CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT'S SIZE THE FRAME ARBOR YOU ARE USING? THANK YOU

Is there much difference doing this on a 2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 4 wheel?

good job madam

26:23 - "Almost too easy" Me - sucking my thumb in the fetal position, with my stuffed animal and under my favorite blankey. Nicely done! 😎

Lesson learned, ONLY OEM or Koyo from now on...300k on the OEM and 56k on cheaper aftermarket, so ya' its round 2.. Just spend the Xtra money here people.

Band clamp would be better for brake line fix

Other than the bearing what other new parts were installed so I know what to order

Aunty get em 🤙🏽

Thanks

i had to use an 8 ft pipe with my 3' breaker bar and i just remounted the tire and put weight back on to get the that axle nut off what pain, and the abs sensor of course broke inside lol

For anyone doing this job I would not recommend hitting the upper control arms to free the ball joint. Also you can get that dust cover off without damaging it so much. 🙂

Nothing like what I have on a 2005 Toyota Tundra! Is there a video for just RWD, as I see now that in this video it has FWD.

Can you tell me what this part number 43515 is

What capacity press do you need?

I was gonna pay to get it done, I got to do it now.

Now I know why the cost is so high to replace 1 of my wheel bearing’s. I had no idea there is so much to this job.

Hello how long take to do that job bearing end bushing

This can be done a lot quicker with an air hammer (for all the bolts and the hub tool) and a hub tamer type of tool. No need to remove the hub at all.

Thanks for the video. Unfortunately this bearing kit is now made in Taiwan instead of Japan. Still a good deal, but not quite as good. The current bearing looks just like the one removed with a number that does not reference to anything.

You should replace the dust cover since it was rusting really bad.

Just a heads up, I followed this video with a stubborn wheel bearing, while using the rotor instead of a proper press plate to push the bearing out my rotor shattered. I'd recommend using proper equipment instead of short cuts!

So impressed your not using a non rusted truck unlike most.

When I pressed my hubs out, it wouldn't come out like this video. The c-clip bent outward and the outer half of the bearing came out with the hub. I had to buy a new hub and c-clip. My abs sensor was also seized so I had to buy a new one. I don't think I've ever had the outer bearing half not come out with the hub.

Is this the same for a sequoia

Do you need to align truck after this install?

Nice long Snap On ratchet but for that price I'd just get a Milwaukee 2763 or 67 even a Harbor Freight 1k ft lb cordless impact to proceed with the job makes it a lot quicker.But I understand the job can be done with basic hand tools except for the press.

Why do you put on the bearing without grease

How about using an impact gun??

Can you please explain why are you replacing the hub? What was wrong with the old one ?

Pull the sensor "gently", proceeds to yank it out xD

Definitely easier since you're replacing a brand new hub and bearing. That thing been in and out a few times.

Hard to get the bolts loose on a Toyota cuz they are made so damn good

Great job,but why leave that backplate on!

Also part number 43501j what is the difference to part number 43502j

It’s difficult to press out the hub. I see you put a rotor under with bricks for more room. But the hub bottoms out

1A bearings any good?

I need the video for a manual transmission and manual locking hub this video dose me no good

GREAT video, big job. 1. In my opinion anyone doing this job should replace the rotors, a good set of rotors is under $100 2. At the 33 minute mark we can see that the caliper brake line is rusty and delaminating, it really should be replaced. It's a $11 part and the hose is already disconnected. 3. Are we suppose to grease under the dust cap? I have no idea, if anyone knows please let me know.

The structure is trashed, completely rotted with rust. The bearing is the least of the problems

Don’t have a press so I took mine to a shop and they “had to charge more because it gave them trouble”